I have a Sanco2 heat pump water heater. The heat pump is located outside the house, with the tank in the basement. It is so absurdly efficient that I thought I was measuring the power draw wrong. Its expensive up front, but a big fat govt tax credit sure helped and the monthly power cost is about the same as my coffee maker.
The tank inside is 83 gallons. I can run the dishwasher, two showers, and anything else I can imagine and it handles it like a champ. The heat pump heats the water so fast that it refills it in minutes, not hours.
And since there’s no element or anything in the tank, there’s virtually nothing to break or fix in it.
IHeartBadCode@kbin.social 11 months ago
Things to note about these:
But all that said, these things are super neato. It's just really important for people to have realistic expectations before installing one.
Wxfisch@lemmy.world 11 months ago
A lot of these depend on the model and where it’s installed (geographically and within the house). In many areas of the US, there is a drain in the floor near all water heaters as a matter of code, you can drain condensate directly to that (and unlike gas appliances, the condensate is clean and does not need treated to go in household drains). I honestly think the noise concern is hugely overblown and used as an excuse for people that don’t like change. Sure it exists, but if your water heater is in the basement or garage like the majority are at least in my areas of the US, you’ll never notice it. I also look at the cooling air as a benefit for at least half the year, I can close all the vents in our basement for the whole spring/summer and it’s super comfortable. In the winter it’s a tad chilly, but not uncomfortable. Drying the air is also great for our basement, it’s literally a dehumidifier in what’s usually a pretty damp location for many people.
I agree that folks should do their homework and understand what they are getting. Heat pump water heaters are great, but are overpriced at the moment. Even with electric company rebates and a tax credit it cost more than a decent gas replacement would for us. It’s likely to only pay off because we have solar and so don’t really pay for electricity for a large chunk of the year. But I expect costs to come down over the next 5-10 years as these become the go to for most electric installs (and with fewer new gas hookups in new and renovated buildings that’s like to be most installs). Once these hit that $700-$1000 price point there’s really no good reason most people shouldn’t default to installing one.
metalaco@lemmy.world 11 months ago
Thanks for this, I live in Florida and have a conventional resistance electric heater in my garage so I’m looking pretty hard at this. Why can’t the condensate be drained into the water tank to be used in the house? Is it unsafe?
woodenskewer@lemmy.world 11 months ago
i mean technically, you could use it but it sounds gross to do without a filtration of some sort before it goes to whatever storage you’re referring to.
another thing to note is that most baseboard heaters are OK to use on 12 AWG. If you’re tight on space in your panel, you’ll likely free up 2 spaces in your box eliminating the heater but still will need to run whatever gauge wire is suggested in the installation manual. (if i’m understanding your intention of removing the resistance heater)
SqueezeMeMacaroni@thelemmy.club 11 months ago
We’re doing a major bathroom remodel at the moment and as part of the project are planning to replace the 15 year old electric water heater that came with the house when we bought it. Heat pumps work by exchanging heat from the air around to the water in the tank, which means that in addition to reducing humidity they also put out cool air. Usually they are installed in a garage or basement where that doesn’t matter as much, but we don’t have a basement and putting it in the garage would require a lot more work in terms of plumbing and electrical work, so we’re going to keep it where it is in the house but install vents that exchange air from the attic in the winter, then in the summer we can flip open the vents and cool/dehumidify our house.
They’re expensive up front but there are federal tax credits through 2032 (I think) of up to 30% of the project cost ($2000 max) and on top of that our local electric company is offering rebates of $800 to replace an electric or gas heater with an air pump. So that will reduce the upfront cost by a pretty good amount.
The only thing I’m at all concerned about is the noise of the motor, but the heater won’t be adjacent to any bedrooms so I don’t think it’ll be a big problem in any case.
earmuff@lemmy.dbzer0.com 11 months ago
Not all heat pumps have an air filter. Those operated outdoors usually don‘t have any.
Jericho_One@lemmy.world 11 months ago
Do they get the water as hot as traditional tank water heaters?
oatscoop@midwest.social 11 months ago
Do y’all not have condensate pumps?
Blaat1234@lemmy.world 11 months ago
What crazy ass compressor needs 220V 30A? Here in Netherlands heat pump is standard as new gas connections are banned for environmental reason, and most homes heat water and the whole house on 7 kW heat, 1.5 kW electric, or about 7A on 240V.
The backup element which only runs at extreme cold outside is a few kW yes but for hot water we just let it run dry and the tap gets colder, no big deal.
Dedicated hot water only boilers have a 300-700W compressor and sometimes a 1.5 kW backup coil. If electrical connection is an issue, just look for a pure compressor driven boiler.
Wxfisch@lemmy.world 11 months ago
They almost always have two high wattage resistive elements installed like a traditional electric water heater which require the 220v/30a circuit. The compressor runs on 220v but sips almost no real current while running.