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@dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world
- Comment on New York's 3D printer law is NOT gun control; it's just.... control. 17 hours ago:
I’m not 100% certain. Possibly the Brownell’s BRN-180, although I haven’t handled one personally to see if the endstop block it comes with relies on the rigidity of the buffer tube ring to stop the bolt carrier or if it attaches to the rest of the upper itself in some way. The recoil springs are entirely captive and attached to it, at least.
I suppose you could also just reinforce the shit out of that area in your design if you knew you didn’t need to have a big hole through it.
- Comment on New York's 3D printer law is NOT gun control; it's just.... control. 18 hours ago:
It should be totally possible to whittle a functional AR-15 lower. Especially if you wanted to mate it to one of those fancy new bufferless uppers, so you wouldn’t even have to worry about the stock and buffer tube.
- Comment on I'm sorry for who fell for the relentless marketing 1 week ago:
Both of my Qidi machines have been plug in, load filament, and print. My current X-Max 3 also provided a rather polished out of the box experience with an on-screen guide and everything. I would much rather have a Qidi than any Bambu machine at this point.
I’m a little disappointed that they’ve apparently recently abandoned their homegrown fork of Prusa Slicer in favor of a home grown fork of Bambu’s slicer, but here’s hoping Bambu’s current litigious fuckery will cause them to rethink that strategy. Still, their stuff is open source enough that there’s nothing stopping me from using any other slicer with it if I felt like it. Or, indeed, any other firmware.
- Comment on Better filament than ABS 1 week ago:
Agreed. I’ve got two bird feeders made out of the stuff just cooking away in the sun year round and they’ve been fine.
- Comment on Better filament than ABS 2 weeks ago:
Yes. And I suspect due to its low temperature resistance (this an intuitive guess; I’m not exactly a materials science engineer) it also exhibits very poor cold creep/permanent deflection characteristics. ABS is actually the best of the bunch there, probably hand in hand with ASA.
However, one thing people are often surprised to learn or discover about boring old PLA is that it actually has among the highest layer adhesion strength of the commonly available materials, I believe second only to polycarbonate, and it’s also the most rigid of the commonly available (non-filled) materials. At least at room temperature, anyway. It turns out that printing the screws for e.g. my Rockhopper or Adélie in anything but PLA amounts to being a fool’s errand.
It’s tempting to think of the litany of plastics available in filament form to consumers as a simple linear and escalating spectrum with “cheap, flimsy, easy to print” and one end and “expensive, strong, difficult to print” at the other. In reality as you know it’s not quite so simple. If anything, the hypothetical graph describing the properties of PLA, PETG, PET, ABS, ASA, Nylon, polycarbonate, etc. would have to be three dimensional.
- Comment on Better filament than ABS 2 weeks ago:
That’s because everyone starts with PLA, and PLA has the lowest shrink and warp of all commonly available materials… which is why it’s so common and everyone starts with PLA.
Basically anything is going to warp more and compare poorly against PLA, but ASA’s shrinkage after cooling is less than half of ABS, so it compares favorably to ABS in particular. 1.6% vs 0.7% or something similar. PLA’s shrink rate, meanwhile, can be as low as 0.3% for competently manufactured blends. Shrinking while cooling is what causes warp, especially on broad flat objects.
- Comment on Better filament than ABS 2 weeks ago:
ASA is the go-to answer. You could also try filled ABS or ASA, either glass fiber or carbon fiber. The fibers do not make it any stronger per se, but they do mitigate shrink and warp to a large degree. If you do so, use a hardened steel or gemstone nozzle.
PETG may also be suitable for some applications.
- Comment on Should I replace my existing hot water system (oil burner) with a hybrid heat pump? 1 month ago:
For the record, my heat pump system works just fine throughout the entire year, including the times in the depths of winter where it drops into the single digits or, in the case of this last winter, below zero on the Fahrenheit scale. (That’d be -17° C, for our Euro bros.) And no, mine does not have resistive electric backup heat.
- Comment on 3D Print Becomes Cast Iron Wrench Via Microwave 2 months ago:
…And also breaks instantly as soon as it’s put under load. The process is for sure very interesting, but a simple casting like this is not the correct method for making something like a wrench. It’d be useful for plenty of other parts, though.
- Comment on Wanted: Printed Mug Handle 2 months ago:
Superglue works extremely well on coffee mugs. I have one that’s got the handle held back on with superglue and it’s been that way for probably close to a decade at this point.
- Comment on What's causing this? 2 months ago:
Unless you’ve deliberately reversed your walls/infill printing order, the default is to print walls first. Your print head and nozzle won’t have any reason to leave the perimeter of the model even if you’re printing multiple examples of the part until the entire layer is complete on one of them. It will move to the next part in the array only after finishing the infill, which is well after your problem may have occurred on either the inner or outer perimeters.
I’m not sure what you’re on about with top fill. I didn’t say anything about your fill pattern or percentage.
- Comment on What's causing this? 2 months ago:
Your nozzle won’t travel anywhere outside of your model’s outer perimeter because it has no reason to (unless your g-code is super borked, see my comment about your slicer above) but it will be dancing around within the space between the outer perimeter and center of your model many hundreds of times. Any extrusions pulled off on the outer perimeter would stay somewhere within the model.
- Comment on What's causing this? 2 months ago:
Those sections of extrusion are being pulled away from the print as the nozzle moves, because for whatever reason they are not adhering to the rest of the print properly.
Increase print temperature, reduce print speed, or reduce travel move speeds.
Also a sanity check, look at your slicer’s output preview and ensure nothing about that model is causing it to freak out and attempt to print in midair…
- Comment on What to do with a roll of unprintable filament 3 months ago:
Filament hinges. Filament hinges everywhere.
- Comment on Western Digital details 14-platter 3.5-inch HAMR HDD designs with 140 TB and beyond 3 months ago:
Not until somebody shuts off the investor money faucet for AI. Then they’ll come crawling back — although inevitably not until after they go whining to all the world’s governments about wanting a bailout.
But hey, look at the bright side. We’ve already had the cryptocurrency mining boom and bust, and “AI” boom and soon to be bust. There’s still time for some idiot to invent the next tech scam fad which will conveniently require a shitload of hardware for no recognizably useful purpose.
- Comment on FreeCad in docker 4 months ago:
FWIW, FreeCAD does not use the GPU for geometry calculation at all. That’s done purely in software and insofar as I’m aware it’s not even multithreaded. Your GPU is only used in any capacity for final display, i.e. spinning the already calculated model(s) around in the preview window which it does via OpenGL. Otherwise it’s all CPU.
Spinning a complicated model around at 244 FPS (my monitor’s maximum display frequency) makes my GPU peak at all of… around 3.5%. Doing a total recalculation on said model or changing a feature on it spikes CPU load momentarily but doesn’t register on GPU usage at all. Doing the same on my laptop which instead has the usual early-gen Intel Graphics Decelerator in it doesn’t provide much of anything different in the speed and usability department. OP’s problem therefore surely lies elsewhere.
- Comment on My country's police just busted a dangerous 3d printed weapons manufacturer. 4 months ago:
Well, I guess if I ever move to Italy I’ll be screwed…
- Comment on Just Noticed One of My Center Caps Mysteriously Went AWOL 4 months ago:
🐿️
- Comment on Just Noticed One of My Center Caps Mysteriously Went AWOL 4 months ago:
Yes, I was waiting for someone to notice that.
- Comment on 4 months ago:
From TFA:
Manufacturers may comply through three methods specified in Section 6(2) of the bill: integration of the algorithm in the printer’s firmware, integration in preprint software, or a handshake authentication design between software and printer.
Nobody’s going to do this in the printer itself; the spyware will be built into the slicer.
Ultimately this will be trivially easy to defeat no matter what moronic legislators who possess no technical knowledge think. The real dangers are more subtle, not least of which being the chilling effect if this passes effectively instructing all 3D printer manufacturers not to sell anything in Washington state since total compliance as the bill proposes is indeed effectively impossible, and the penalties for presumed lack of compliance are high. The most realistic outcome for a private individual vis-a-vis potentially printing a ghost gun is not necessarily having their printer tattle on them, but the state having yet another byzantine felony they can charge people with if they get caught after the fact with whatever-it-is they have. Never mind the 1st and 2nd amendments, the only realistic avenue for enforcement of this on private individuals will run afoul of the 4th.
- Comment on Designed a simple photo frame on FreeCad. Why are some layers peeling in my print? 4 months ago:
I’m in agreement with the others. This is a printer issue, not a model design issue. Any current printer in good working order and running non-insane settings should be able to print a 90 degree inside corner like that with no problem.
Some possibilities:
Your Z offset may be set too high, so that your first layer height is too tall. This will result in the first layer’s extrusions not sticking to the bed and each other, peeling off in strings like you see here.
Flip this over and show us the bottom of it. The effects of a too-high first layer should be readily apparent. That’s where my money is.
Your printer may also be attempting to round the corners too fast. You could slow down your print speed, or adjust your linear advance settings. If you are using Prusaslicer or a derivative thereof (Orca, Qidi, etc.) there are built-in calibration prints you can run that will provide you a range of values to inspect my physically printing them, and allowing you to choose from the value that produces the best looking result. Ideally your linear advance/pressure advance setting should be tuned for each spool of filament, but in reality most people (myself included) don’t bother until they observe an issue. I use the same settings for all PLA, and a different set of settings for all PETG, and another for ABS, etc.
- Submitted 4 months ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 6 comments
- Comment on What does the bed mesh in Fluidd show? My prints are good, nothing to complain about, but I see the bed mesh doesn't look so good. 4 months ago:
Make sure the edge of your bed isn’t resting on something it ought not to be and/or doesn’t have any crap stuck to the underside of it. My Qidi has two plastic tabs sticking up at the rear which are supposed to be end stops to assist you in lining up the magnetic plate back onto its base, but if you’re not careful you can wind up with the back edge of the base siting on top of them which has the net effect of making the build surface the equivalent of about a 1:64 scale skateboard quarter pipe. This has predictable results if you try to print anything on the back third of it or so.
- Comment on Good FOSS design software for beginners? 4 months ago:
Given your requirements of no cloud, no SaaS, and running in Linux you have already arrived at the correct two choices, depending on what you’re trying to model.
I am a diehard FreeCAD user, and I would say just stick with it until you are able to build what you’re trying to build. Via the expedient of Noodling Around With It I’m now proficient enough to do everything I personally want to do with FreeCAD, i.e. using its part design tools and studiously avoiding all of the other workbenches I have no use case for.
