dual_sport_dork

Side rant: It’s annoying how the first thing EVERYONE says when seeing your prints is that “you could sell these!!”

Yeah, let me tell you about selling your own prints. Let me tell you all about that. There is way more complication and many more moving parts than anyone expects at first glance. Or, even, after a good second look.

Everybody thinks you need to find a way to monetize all your hobbies now. It’s “HuStLe cUlTuRe!!!” You have to make your own decision on that point. Do it because you want to, not because you expect to make any kind of money at it.

I’m doing it because I want to. You couldn’t stop me, even with a wall.

I’m not 100% certain. Possibly the Brownell’s BRN-180, although I haven’t handled one personally to see if the endstop block it comes with relies on the rigidity of the buffer tube ring to stop the bolt carrier or if it attaches to the rest of the upper itself in some way. The recoil springs are entirely captive and attached to it, at least.

I suppose you could also just reinforce the shit out of that area in your design if you knew you didn’t need to have a big hole through it.

It should be totally possible to whittle a functional AR-15 lower. Especially if you wanted to mate it to one of those fancy new bufferless uppers, so you wouldn’t even have to worry about the stock and buffer tube.

Both of my Qidi machines have been plug in, load filament, and print. My current X-Max 3 also provided a rather polished out of the box experience with an on-screen guide and everything. I would much rather have a Qidi than any Bambu machine at this point.

I’m a little disappointed that they’ve apparently recently abandoned their homegrown fork of Prusa Slicer in favor of a home grown fork of Bambu’s slicer, but here’s hoping Bambu’s current litigious fuckery will cause them to rethink that strategy. Still, their stuff is open source enough that there’s nothing stopping me from using any other slicer with it if I felt like it. Or, indeed, any other firmware.

Agreed. I’ve got two bird feeders made out of the stuff just cooking away in the sun year round and they’ve been fine.

Yes. And I suspect due to its low temperature resistance (this an intuitive guess; I’m not exactly a materials science engineer) it also exhibits very poor cold creep/permanent deflection characteristics. ABS is actually the best of the bunch there, probably hand in hand with ASA.

However, one thing people are often surprised to learn or discover about boring old PLA is that it actually has among the highest layer adhesion strength of the commonly available materials, I believe second only to polycarbonate, and it’s also the most rigid of the commonly available (non-filled) materials. At least at room temperature, anyway. It turns out that printing the screws for e.g. my Rockhopper or Adélie in anything but PLA amounts to being a fool’s errand.

It’s tempting to think of the litany of plastics available in filament form to consumers as a simple linear and escalating spectrum with “cheap, flimsy, easy to print” and one end and “expensive, strong, difficult to print” at the other. In reality as you know it’s not quite so simple. If anything, the hypothetical graph describing the properties of PLA, PETG, PET, ABS, ASA, Nylon, polycarbonate, etc. would have to be three dimensional.

That’s because everyone starts with PLA, and PLA has the lowest shrink and warp of all commonly available materials… which is why it’s so common and everyone starts with PLA.

Basically anything is going to warp more and compare poorly against PLA, but ASA’s shrinkage after cooling is less than half of ABS, so it compares favorably to ABS in particular. 1.6% vs 0.7% or something similar. PLA’s shrink rate, meanwhile, can be as low as 0.3% for competently manufactured blends. Shrinking while cooling is what causes warp, especially on broad flat objects.

ASA is the go-to answer. You could also try filled ABS or ASA, either glass fiber or carbon fiber. The fibers do not make it any stronger per se, but they do mitigate shrink and warp to a large degree. If you do so, use a hardened steel or gemstone nozzle.

PETG may also be suitable for some applications.

Well, I guess if I ever move to Italy I’ll be screwed…