Which Core XY printer?

Submitted ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨galaxy_nova@lemmy.world⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

I’ve been wanting to get a 3d printer for a while and now I’m starting to finally look at getting one. It seems like in general though finding clear reviews and knowledge on printers is much harder than other things but maybe that’s because I’m not in the hobby yet. Bambu is a no from me but I’m open to other options. I was kinda looking at he centauri carbon but I’ve heard it’s pretty loud and I live in a small apartment. The Prusa Core One seems like a decent option but it’s all quite expensive so I don’t wanna save up for that unless it really is the best option and there’s nothing reasonable cheaper. What’s everyone’s thoughts? Absolute max budget is $1k but I would strongly prefer to spend something ~$500 or less

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xyguy@startrek.website ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv08-3d-printer

This one is awesome. Open source everything. Based on the Boron and a pretty good price too.

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- Bluewing@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  The problem is, by the time you add the enclosure, you are at nearly the same price as a Core One kit. Yes, the SV08 is larger, but unless you are into cosplay printing, that extra size is probably a waste of space.
  
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  - morbidcactus@lemmy.ca ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    It’s nice to have just in case but seriously, I find my 350x350 way oversized for what I print on the regular. The best use I have for that size is printed panels, but the z height us mostly useless for 99% of what I do.
    
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- AnyOldName3@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  It’s also been on a few really good sales on AliExpress over the past few months, and it’s taken a lot of self-control not to buy myself an entirely unnecessary second SV08 given how impressed I’ve been with mine and the sales taking a third off the cost of the printer.
  
  That said, I have replaced the bed on mine with a graphite one because the stock one’s pretty thin and can warp. Particularly annoyingly, after being hot for about 40 minutes, it’d ping from being warped in one direction to being warped in the other direction, so prints either had to be finished before that or wait until after before they started. It’s not strictly necessary, but it was worth upgrading the bed when there was a price cut to save myself some annoyance and let me fit bed fans so printing ABS was less warp-prone.
  
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  - wfh@piefed.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Super interested in the graphite bed, could you share some links ? I would love to avoid heat soaking mine for half an hour before each print ;)
    
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atomicpeach@pawb.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
If you’re up for making it a hobby and you like tinkering, have you thought of building a Voron? After using a few off-the-shelf units, I’ve come to appreciate using an open source project because upgrading components is so easy and second nature. You can incrementally upgrade specific aspects when your wallet and desires dictate it.

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- galaxy_nova@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I like the idea but I’m not sure that it’s there for value. Maybe my second printer? Plus idk where to source the 3d printed bits
  
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  - FleetingTit@feddit.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Many kits come with the printed parts nowadys. Alternatively you could look around on the Voron Discord, maybe someone in your part of the world would be willing to print the parts for you.
    
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sychthys@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Avoid Elegoo like the plague. Horrible customer service. Literal months of fighting, explaining the problem over and over, and four escalations before the ticket was just closed.

We got an Anycubic Kobra S1 to replace the Elehoo junk and its been fantastic so far. They also have a 4.0 vs. Elegoo’s 2.3 on Trustpilot.

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MxRemy@piefed.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
If you’re interested in tinkering but a Voron is just too expensive, I’d suggest the Rook 2020 MK2 from Rolohaun. You can get an LDO kit for the MK1 alongside an MK2 upgrade kit. It’s coreXY but it’s both cheaper and more beginner friendly than a Voron. (1, 2, 3)

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- ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  This just looks like the voron v0.2
  
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  - MxRemy@piefed.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    A voron 0.2 kit costs $650 🙃
    
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  - WillowWisp@lemmy.blahaj.zone ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    That’s a pretty reductive take, the Rook 2020 is very similar in print capabilities to a v0.2 with the same build volume, similar print speeds and quality, but is intended to be an open-frame PLA printer while the v0.2 is intended to be an enclosed ABS printer. Which is better really comes down to what you want to print with it. My self-sourced Rook 2020 Mk1 has been a reliable workhorse for PLA, PETG and TPU for over 2 years now with minimal maintenance.
    
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MrQuallzin@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I’ve got the Centauri Carbon and really like it. It is fairly noisy, but we’re in a small studio apartment and it’s been pretty easy to tune out during the day (Overnight prints are annoying though)

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- galaxy_nova@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Have you tried any mods like a different fan or 3d prints to reduce noise? Curious if those affect the sound
  
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  - divineburke@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I have a carbon as well and it is louder than I’d like. But with that said it’s no louder (with the enclosure open) than my old Ender 3S1. The real noise comes from the enclosure fan which is optional if you’re printing PLA.
    
    I haven’t tried any sound dampening mods to it though. I have the luxury of being able to stick it in a closet when it’s working.
    
    With it all considered I would definitely recommend it for it’s price point and how well it prints for a novice hobbyist like myself. It’s really close to “set it and forget it”
    
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  - MrQuallzin@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I’ve considered it but it hasn’t bugged me enough. Probably going to try them out here pretty soon
    
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John@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
If you want a cheap core XY i would go with sovol. I like there near stock Klipper so you will have no headaches updating the Software in the future.

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akincisor@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Consider the following:

qidi q2

creality k1c

sovol sv08 max (for something bigger)

I own the k1c and it’s been ok reliable for the 6 months I’ve had it. If you are printing PLA/PETG you will need to keep the door open (and it’s breakable glass)
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- elucubra@sopuli.xyz ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Is it hard to mod to have a fan pumping air in?
  
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- dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I’m here to shill for Qidi again whenever their name comes up. I’ve owned two, an OG X-Plus and currently an X-Max 3. They’ve both been rock solid, unpack from the box, and print. My only gripe about the Max 3 is that they are not extending support for their new AMS-esque filament changer doohickey to it, but that wasn’t even on the horizon back when I bought it so I guess I can’t be mad about that.
  
  Thus far Qidi’s machines have been reasonably open source, with readily available parts, and they haven’t pulled any lock-in bullshit. You can run your own firmware on them if you like as well, since the controller boards and so forth are commodity parts.
  
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  - galaxy_nova@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    The Q2 is definitely something I’m considering how’s the volume and such?
    
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Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I’ve got over 1000 hours on my Anycubic S1. I had the extruder data cable cable go bad after 1000 hours (it was rubbing on the carrier as the print head moved) and got a free replacement from support.

It’s half open. It doesn’t run Klipper but you can install it if you want. It has cloud features but you don’t have to use them. It comes with a proprietary Orca fork but you can run regular Orca or whatever slicer you want.

If you can wait, I’d get a Snapmaker U1.

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- galaxy_nova@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I’ve heard snapmaker as a brand has been unreliable is that something I could solve with klipper? Otherwise the Anycubic is also a cheaper option between the two it seems
  
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  - Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Given the speed and complete change in designs from year to year I don’t think there is any correlation between brands and reliability.
    
    There are many complaints about the expensive Bambu H2D whereas everyone says the P1s is perfect.
    
    I expect the Snapmaker to have problems given its complexity. But 4 print heads for $800 is worth some hassle.
    
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- John@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  If you want to use networkprinting with stock Firmware you need to use the Windows Orca Fork filled with Adds and send it through there Servers or did they change it?
  
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  - Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I think you have it confused with Bambu. You don’t have to use their software with stock firmware. You can network print directly without using any cloud. I’ve used Orca and Prusa. There are absolutely no ads in their slicer.
    
    They have an STL search on their Makeronline.com like Prusa printables.com built into their slicer but that’s not an ad.
    
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lazycouchpotato@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I ended up going with the Flashforge Adventurer 5M for ~$175 slickdeals.net/…/18590524-flashforge-adventurer-5… (You can get 20-60% back from certain cashback websites like TopCashback or Capital One Shopping if you are comfortable with using them.)

You can 3D print an enclosure for the 5M after purchasing an enclosure kit for ~$40 online.

There’s also the 5M Pro model for ~$100 more that comes pre-built with an enclosure for sound dampening and printing with materials like ABS. It also comes with a camera and an extra nozzle. I didn’t go for it cause of the higher upfront cost, plus I don’t expect to print outside of PLA and PETG.

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ClydapusGotwald@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
So I had a creality K1 and it was rock solid. I saved up after and just bought a Prusa Core One which I love. Now the K1 was great I got it when it came out on sale at microcenter for 300$ so if you can find it around that price or lower in my experience you can’t go wrong. I only printed PLA on it so I can’t say how other filaments print on it but pla it just worked.

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elucubra@sopuli.xyz ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I had a micro print farm making covid stuff, like face masks, ear savers, and stuff. I had 2 Ender 5 plus, an an Ender 5. I wound it down and kept 1 E5 plus. My machine is heavily modded and tuned, so it suits me fine, except for multi color.

I’m deciding on the evolution of my setup. My first logical option is mod my E5+ more, and add Bondtech INDX later this year. I’ll have a hybrid coreX, fast, multicolor XL printer, but it only makes sense because I have eliminated most of the E5+ weaknesses, and intimately know the printer. At that point it will essentially be a custom one-off machine.

Another option would be to buy a Snapmaker U1, which is an insane value, and is, with the Prusa Core one a true next generation multicolor machine. AMS, And other MMUs, (multi material units), are evolutionary dead ends, made obsolete by tool changers.

A good option may be an enclosed Sovol SV08, essentially a rebuilt Voron, upgraded with the INDX tool hanger.

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autriyo@feddit.org ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I bought my printer used, it only cost me 50€. Although I had to replace a bearing in the extruder.

Depending on the offers in your area that might be an option. Or I just got very lucky who knows…

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- galaxy_nova@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Where’d you find it?
  
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  - autriyo@feddit.org ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Germany’s Craigslist equivalent.
    
    Sometimes you have to be patient for the good deals to show up. And usually there is no shipping. So some hidden cost in transportation and time may exist.
    
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