ExcessShiv

I would argue that figuring how to solve a problem, especially a novel problem, is the creative part of programming and the part that requires the actual skill. Punching the keys to implement it is the non-creative part I.e. what the type-monkey does.

Unless the person weighs in, we can only guess what they ment.

True, but the programmer type-monkeys will have to adapt to this change though…just like other production workers have through the times.

I’ve been looking at preflight for a few months now, I keep coming back to test it but I’m not really impressed with it so far TBH. It feels clunky to use, I have some stability issues, and performance is just kind of OK. It still seems like it has a really long way to go before it becomes an actual competitor that could replace the more common slicers like prusa and orca.

I started out as with prusaslicer, but the functionality and workflow of orca is IMO far superior.

At this point in life, I’m more interested a “turn-key” setup than a project

Yeah I can relate, it’s also why i don’t have a voron myself.

Lol yeah 0.72 PA is absolutely insane especially for a direct drive extruder.

For reparability I don’t think anything can beat a voron. Pretty much anything that can break from use on those can also be printed.

Unfortunately the xmax3 has been discontinued

You will find them in their natural habitat, the crossfit/hyrox gym.

What did you set your event and pause delays to?

Ah OK makes more sense then.

As for detection length, default is 7mm for encoder-type sensing according to klipper documentation. So 10mm is far from excessive and you should be able to bump it even more just to check.

Is your extruder direct drive or bowden?

Why is your switch_pin not set?

Also I use Jellyfin btw.

Oh god, its the new Arch isn’t it…

I’ve had this happen if there a bit too much squish on the first layer. The level may look good and work for parts with smaller areas, but it compounds for large bottom areas and caused similar effects for me. Increasing distance to bed by 0.01-0.02mm or so fixed it for me.

Always use a blowoff tube, there’s basically no downside and it handles overfilled fermentors without issues.

I find it strange that people pit so much effort in to mental gymnastics to try and justify to themselves why it’s OK that their potentially almost €3000 machine (Core One+ L INDX) doesn’t work 100% out of the box without upgrades down the line to fix design issues. It’s not OK to sell products that don’t work properly right away (regardless of the company), especially so in that price range. Don’t sell it until it actually works 100%, it’s a really simple concept.

I’m not talking specifically about bambu labs here, there’s a boatload of other manufacturers that are less nefarious and still deliver printers with feature and performance parity to prusa at less than half. I bought a Qidi Xmax3 brand spanking new for €470, it does the same as the Core One+ L (without the INDX) which costs more than €1900 (I add filtration because the Qidi has that).

I’m aware mine is not as easily repaired (although the full CAD of the gantry is released) but at almost €1500 savings that’s kind of OK.

That’s bullshit. Its not properly engineered if you can’t use whatever filament you want. If it’s a temp thing for that specific filament, it’s a Prusa issue because they’re not using filament specs you’ve entered in the slicer in their calibration process. Hard coding temps for anything is lazy and bad practice these days since it’s variables that are ready straight from the slicer.

They’re selling pro-sumer priced printers, but both the MK4S and the Core One had issues that simply should not happen. Things that let customers paying a premium price be beta testers for the next properly made versions of the printer. They do make good printers worth the price…eventually…but only after they’ve released and sold a half-baked version. And this is my gripe with Prusa.

It’s not their official site, which also sells from EU warehouse, and the price is pretty much the same. Generally it seems sketchy to me that it’s not the official site but so close that you think it is.

Not for an issue that printer less than half the price doesn’t have.

But at least they cost a fraction. You can’t (or at least shouldn’t) sell a premium priced product with underwhelming performance.

The Core One line seems to require a lot of fiddling and the auto calibration features are far from consistent it seems.

No go check the billion issues people are having with the auto-calibration features on their printers, especially on the Core ONE printers. They require a lot of fiddling.

Despite their hefty price tag, Prusa still seems to be predominantly a “tinker printer” more that a “press-play” printer, so not necessarily the best option for a beginner.

It’s really sad that every release from prusa seems to be a rushed semifinished mess that over promises and severely under delivers. The XL was a mess when it released, and only sort of fixed shortcomings with half-assed solutions, the core one was a mess, and now this INDX is an absolute shitshow. If the timeline had seemed rushed you might understand it, but the INDX release has taken ages and been delayed significantly since announced.

PLA, PETG, ASA, ASA-CF, PET, PETG-CF and on rare occasions TPU85A, with the first 3 being the “regulars”

Are jams really that common anymore? I’ve got around 2500-3000h of print time on my two printers and I’ve never had a jam or clog on any of them.

Sand by itself doesn’t add much to rigidity I think, it only adds weight. With only 3 walls and sand you’d probably be lacking in rigidity.

I have my doubt’s that resin would distribute evenly throughout all the sand in the model. I also have some doubt’s about the sand, maybe you can shake/vibrate the model so the sand distributes well, but it will probably be hard to get into all the small smaces depending on model shape and how dry the sand is.

Why not just straight resin as filler?