ExcessShiv

I’d get a new one at £30

How much does a new one cost? This is a PITA to fix, so I would prefer just getting a new one if its not too expensive.

That’s looks like you fucked up when you assembled the hotend and didn’t do it correctly.

Yeah i read Like 8-12 books per year, at best, it doesn’t make sense to automate any aspect of that.

I just manually transfer books to my reader when I get them. I have them organized by genre on my reader (done manually). This is not an area where I see automation providing any significant benefit to bother setting up and maintaining an automated pipeline.

IMO life is just too short for bad filament, I’d rather pay 5-10$ more for a roll of filament and know that I’m not going to be spending hours and 1/3 of the spool on debugging and failed prints.

IME consistency across batches is almost the most important thing. Some brands print better than others, but none is best across all types. I have 3-4 different brands that I have dialed in and trust to perform the same every time and I stick to those. Buying cheap aliexpress filament is a crapshooter every time, even when sticking to the same brand. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it shortens your life by a decade due to frustration.

Mine runs really well in my somewhat complex yard. I have a firepit with an angled bench, a dugout trampoline, a swing set, several randomly placed trees, and currently an aboveground pool with solar heater in my yard. None of these things are mapped out, I only mapped the edge of my yard with it. It also handles my driveway which is partially covered in grass and accessible through a narrow gate (~10cm on either side of the mower when it passes through). For ~800€ I think it performs really well, and everything is fairly cramped in my 400sqrm yard, so lots of narrow passages for it to navigate.

You can easily get several models capable of more than that now, but they’re pricy.

Frugally (legally) obtained HDDs are still going to cost you a lot of money, there is no way around that at the moment. If you need it, pay up and be done with it. If you just kind of want it, start sorting through your piles of data you don’t actually need (yes, you have that you, atop lying to yourself) to free up space for things you do actually need.

I upgraded to OMV8 from 7 a few months ago, it was surprisingly easy without any issues.

Not when the sensor fails so the feedback to the firmware controlling it is incorrect and there is no thermal fuse.

AFAIK it’s a thermistor that is breaking causing thermal runaway. But this is can only happen during printing where heated/hotend is heating.

Methanol is only a bigger issue if you drink it…unless you were drinking your isopropyl alcohol that’s not a very big concern.

Perhaps proprietary is not the correct word then, but it is exclusively in-house developed by themselves AFAIK. My point is, they insist on reinventing the wheel every time they want to catch up to their competitors because of this, instead of just working together with the open source community.

Prusa is what i would call partly open source these days, the article you link is up to date. But they’re behind the curve at the moment playing catchup with much cheaper printers. This is in part because they insist on their own proprietary firmware instead of working with the massive klipper community which IMO is driving bleeding edge of consumer 3D printing right now, and what almost all their competitors are also using (in some variation).

That more like an item than a material I would say…

Hah I’m not even sure, even cheap materials like plywood have gotten expensive

You can build things without a tablesaw…a simple jigsaw and a spirit level as a guide gets you good results for straight cuts, just a little slower.

With some practice a regular saw will even get you good results for simple things like this.

Impressively large print, but I would’ve probably just built this in plywood or MDF.

Interesting if that happens, but that seems to be caused by additives used by prusa in their filaments then, because from a chemical standpoint the crystalline structure of PLA is simply not dissolvable by acetone. It can cause swelling and delamination of layers, but not actually dissolve it (without additives that mess with the polymer chains)

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I set this up a good 25min ago, let’s see what happens. It’s polymaker polyterra PLA, 3 walls, 15% gyroid infill and some fuzzy skin with default parameters from orca slicer.

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So far all I have is very slight color leeching out, but nothing has dissolved so far. I’ll let it run for a few days and keep you updated.

You might get some minor surface reaction, but you’re sure as hell not able to dissolve PLA in acetone. Leaving a part printed of PLA in acetone will not turn it in to goo like it does with ABS/ASA.

You’re thinking of ABS/ASA, acetone does not dissolve PLA.

Why not just orient it in a different way so a flat surface was touching instead of cutting a part off?

Yeah that’s a terrible orientation for bed adhesion. Have you tried orienting in a different manner that provides a larger contact area with the bed?

AFAIK they did have some issues on the first of their 3rd gen printers, and only for 110VAC models, 230VAC models were unaffected. And they recognized the issue when it was discovered, fixed it, and shipped replacement parts for affected customers.

The current printers you can buy from them are their 4th gen, haven’t heard anything like that for these. They’re technically open source, but they make their own weird forked klipper version instead of just using vanilla klipper.

They’re fucked even without tariffs…

No…you can pay more for less, but at least it’s actually yours.

Eh, prusa still seems to be behind the curve, and their insistence on sticking to their old proprietary firmware instead of moving to a more modern approach with klipper and work with the huge community there is IMO a bad move.