ExcessShiv

I upgraded to OMV8 from 7 a few months ago, it was surprisingly easy without any issues.

Not when the sensor fails so the feedback to the firmware controlling it is incorrect and there is no thermal fuse.

AFAIK it’s a thermistor that is breaking causing thermal runaway. But this is can only happen during printing where heated/hotend is heating.

Methanol is only a bigger issue if you drink it…unless you were drinking your isopropyl alcohol that’s not a very big concern.

Perhaps proprietary is not the correct word then, but it is exclusively in-house developed by themselves AFAIK. My point is, they insist on reinventing the wheel every time they want to catch up to their competitors because of this, instead of just working together with the open source community.

Prusa is what i would call partly open source these days, the article you link is up to date. But they’re behind the curve at the moment playing catchup with much cheaper printers. This is in part because they insist on their own proprietary firmware instead of working with the massive klipper community which IMO is driving bleeding edge of consumer 3D printing right now, and what almost all their competitors are also using (in some variation).

That more like an item than a material I would say…

Hah I’m not even sure, even cheap materials like plywood have gotten expensive

You can build things without a tablesaw…a simple jigsaw and a spirit level as a guide gets you good results for straight cuts, just a little slower.

With some practice a regular saw will even get you good results for simple things like this.

Impressively large print, but I would’ve probably just built this in plywood or MDF.

Interesting if that happens, but that seems to be caused by additives used by prusa in their filaments then, because from a chemical standpoint the crystalline structure of PLA is simply not dissolvable by acetone. It can cause swelling and delamination of layers, but not actually dissolve it (without additives that mess with the polymer chains)

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I set this up a good 25min ago, let’s see what happens. It’s polymaker polyterra PLA, 3 walls, 15% gyroid infill and some fuzzy skin with default parameters from orca slicer.

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So far all I have is very slight color leeching out, but nothing has dissolved so far. I’ll let it run for a few days and keep you updated.

You might get some minor surface reaction, but you’re sure as hell not able to dissolve PLA in acetone. Leaving a part printed of PLA in acetone will not turn it in to goo like it does with ABS/ASA.

You’re thinking of ABS/ASA, acetone does not dissolve PLA.

Why not just orient it in a different way so a flat surface was touching instead of cutting a part off?

Yeah that’s a terrible orientation for bed adhesion. Have you tried orienting in a different manner that provides a larger contact area with the bed?

AFAIK they did have some issues on the first of their 3rd gen printers, and only for 110VAC models, 230VAC models were unaffected. And they recognized the issue when it was discovered, fixed it, and shipped replacement parts for affected customers.

The current printers you can buy from them are their 4th gen, haven’t heard anything like that for these. They’re technically open source, but they make their own weird forked klipper version instead of just using vanilla klipper.

They’re fucked even without tariffs…

No…you can pay more for less, but at least it’s actually yours.

Eh, prusa still seems to be behind the curve, and their insistence on sticking to their old proprietary firmware instead of moving to a more modern approach with klipper and work with the huge community there is IMO a bad move.

Unfortunately they’ve discontinued the xmax 3, and the newer ones are slightly less open. I would have liked to get a second xmax 3, i got mine for €500 on sale it’s been an amazing deal, absolutely insane value for money.

It’s a little hard to see due to low resolution, but it looks like you have small gaps between infill lines. If that’s the case you need to reduce Z-offset to get more squish.

Have you checked that all the grub screws are properly tightened?

Check mechanical connections so it isn’t caused by slipping on gears/rods. Have many hours of printing since you gave it a good thorough service?

Also, what filament type is this?

I would go PET/PETG for everything unless you need the slightly higher temperature deflection of ASA. I have PET prints that have been outside for 2.5 years now with no discoloration or apparent issues in strength.

All printers made in the past 5 years have a purge chute and wiper.

Uuh…no, not even close to being true. There are still plenty of printers without purge chutes available on the market today.

Filament buildup on the nozzle is my guess. Could be a Z-offset/first layer squish issue, filament moisture content too high, temp too high (or too low), nozzle hitting print during travel, small amount of oozing during travel moves, worn out nozzle with uneven nozzle shape/diameter, partial clog…there’s a number of different things that can cause this.

It’s been popular for making ceramics at home in microwaves for years

You can make surprisingly sharpb objects, I once cut myself with my printed bed-scraper by accident.

These printed knives can absolutely also be used to hurt/kill someone, if you wanted to…like all type of knives and basic cutlery really…these being an illegal type is the trigger here I believe.

3D printers are not really toys though, regardless of how ridiculous this arrest is. It’s a tool, like a hammer or drill…nothing more, nothing less.