ExcessShiv

Purging to infill is also already a thing, so you wouldn’t need to solve that at least, but you need a very high infill percentage to have enough volume to only use that.

IDK, I’m just not sure what benefit this actually has over just having the individual colors of filament you need for a print. It seems to me it adds complexity without really doing a better job.

I’d mostly worry about controlling color transitions, because you can’t really control the actual color properly when changing the mix for a different color. I think you’d end up needing some sort of purge between colors to avoid weird unwanted color transitions. I don’t think it would provide lower material use or a speed benefit to the existing MMU multicolor solution because of this.

That would be impossible to control. paper CMYK printers don’t even do it like that.

No, I’m talking about this

It’s already a thing in orca and prusaslicer at least

While I 100% prefer the klipper-route of sovol to the Prusa’s semi-closed ecosystem, the price difference seems relatively small between the M1D advanced and the Core One+ INDX, and despite the flaws of the Core one it is likely to be built better.

Oh, and this so-called “upgrade path” Prusa provides, yeah those often suck a lot by being near complete rebuilds with minimal actual savings compared to getting the new printer.

Yes, which is why we stuff the space between inner and out wall with insulation, usually mineral or glass wool, which have excellent insulation capabilities.

I think what they meant by “catching up” would happen at later layers, not later in the same layer. Basically, those layers are bad themselves but putting down enough material in the right places that a future layer will go down correct and smooth. So layer 4 being fine basically agrees with above commenter.

No I’m saying the gap between lines on layer 2 and 3 is the same throughout the entirety of both layers without change (also on walls), but not present at all on layer 4 and onwards.

Are we looking at layer 2 partially complete or layer 3 partially complete?

Partially complete layer 2

The back right area has tell-tell signs of too low z-offset (the very thin pinch lines coming up) but as it moves to the front of the image it looks like the z-offset is too high (not closing the gaps at the ends of lines and defined gaps between lines)

This seems to be unrelated to Z-offset, as it’s happens regardless of print placement and orientation but follows infill direction with the more squished part being towards the end of the layer and the slightly less squished part being the beginning.

The entire bed is within 0.18mm from lowest to highest point, with 0.07mm between highest and lowest corners. According to the probed mesh at least.

Even the layer that is in progress looks like the lines are coming apart as the print head moves from back to front, like the gap is bigger in the front than back.

This is also following infill direction actually, now that I think of it. It starts out almost ok, but gaps occur to a greater extent as solid infill progresses (regardless of print orientation and infill direction)

Has it always done this?

I honestly can’t remember…maybe?

Did you get the printer new?

Yes

How long have you had it?

8 months or so

What temperature was the bed when you took the bed mesh?

55°C, heat soaked. It uses KAMP so it’s a new mesh every print.

Having the other side of the model (the back of the picture) appear to be properly squished down

Its not, that’s my shaky-cam photo skills and the angle

Yes those lines are exactly the issue for me, that’s the solid infill happening on layer 2 and 3. It’s only those two layers that have this behavior. The first layer is fine (not perfect, but not an issue).

Bed is within 0.18mm from lowest to highest point (according to the bed mesh), with all four corners within 0.07mm. It’s the best I could achieve. But again, this is only happening on layer 2 and 3, the bottom solid infill layers. If it was a general structural issue it should be prevalent throughout the model? but it isn’t.

Slicer is already included, but yes I should probably also mention the printer

Well I don’t have a Bambi Labs printer, so I’ve never used their slicer and I doubt it has profiles for my printer.

Dude, a self hosted WG server creates a tunnel network without relying on central servers. Rayfish is probably just an AI-coded WG server and client combo. It’s “solving” a problem with AI that was already solved without AI.

That’s not ratfish handling that but the cloudflare DDNS you’re using that handles that. So yes, self hosted WG server handles that just as fast.

WireGuard still needs a central server that you don’t control.

No, it really doesn’t

Neither has a wireguard tunnel into your home network, you host the WG server on your own computer (or router even, that’s what I do) and just point your clients to that using either static IP if you have it or a DDNS service like the cloudflare you’re using if you have a dynamic IP.

So what, this is just yet another app that makes a VPN connection to your home network, but AI-coded instead? Why not use one of the non-AI made solutions?

Have you tried to see if there’s a local maker space that let’s you use their 3d printers?

I run a small 3D print business that mostly does B2B, but I handle the occasional B2C. I charge $15 + 10¢/min for single color basic filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA) for B2C. I’m in Europe though but it could give you a price range idea.

There’s plenty, where are you located in the world?

Oh man, i totally forgot flashing RGB lights are the only thing in the world that’s fun…silly me

Yes bright flashing RGB lights are generally a juvenile thing…

Ugh…RBG lights are not a “gamer thing”, its a child thing. Grown people are gamers too, they (the ones in my circle at least) don’t have RGB lights in anything anymore. We all did when we were kids 20 years ago though.

Where’s the heresy?

Can you 3D print trimmer line? Yes you can and not only does it kind of work; after drying the material for a night, it performs better than I ever imagined! Printability is excellent even working at temperatures that Bowden hotends could handle, and quality is awesome. Material strength is similar to what I’ve seen in the past with other Nylons with decent layer adhesion and impressive impact strength.

Well I’ll be damned…that’s pretty neat

I’d get a new one at £30

How much does a new one cost? This is a PITA to fix, so I would prefer just getting a new one if its not too expensive.

That’s looks like you fucked up when you assembled the hotend and didn’t do it correctly.

Yeah i read Like 8-12 books per year, at best, it doesn’t make sense to automate any aspect of that.