ExcessShiv
@ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com
- Comment on The Prusa Core One INDX isn't a functional 3D printer (yet) - Made With Layers 1 day ago:
It’s really sad that every release from prusa seems to be a rushed semifinished mess that over promises and severely under delivers. The XL was a mess when it released, and only sort of fixed shortcomings with half-assed solutions, the core one was a mess, and now this INDX is an absolute shitshow. If the timeline had seemed rushed you might understand it, but the INDX release has taken ages and been delayed significantly since announced.
- Comment on Finally got the Box Turtle AFC mostly dialed in, yay multicolor! 6 days ago:
PLA, PETG, ASA, ASA-CF, PET, PETG-CF and on rare occasions TPU85A, with the first 3 being the “regulars”
- Comment on Finally got the Box Turtle AFC mostly dialed in, yay multicolor! 1 week ago:
Are jams really that common anymore? I’ve got around 2500-3000h of print time on my two printers and I’ve never had a jam or clog on any of them.
- Comment on Filling 3D prints with filler material 1 week ago:
Sand by itself doesn’t add much to rigidity I think, it only adds weight. With only 3 walls and sand you’d probably be lacking in rigidity.
- Comment on Filling 3D prints with filler material 1 week ago:
I have my doubt’s that resin would distribute evenly throughout all the sand in the model. I also have some doubt’s about the sand, maybe you can shake/vibrate the model so the sand distributes well, but it will probably be hard to get into all the small smaces depending on model shape and how dry the sand is.
Why not just straight resin as filler?
- Comment on Does anyone have experience with Zonestar printers? 1 week ago:
Uuh…honestly you probably made a truly terrible choice buying that thing. Even free I probably wouldn’t have gone with it. Before you’re done fixing and upgrading that thing you could’ve probably bought a brand new fully functional printer from a different manufacturer and saved yourself many hours of work and frustration.
I would cut my losses now on that thing unless you seriously enjoy a time and money sink that will eventually lead to you getting another printer.
- Comment on Anyone used a counter top induction hot plate for boiling? 2 weeks ago:
I’ve used one from IKEA that’s 2000W (TILREDA) for 10L batches. It’s just a cheap single-plate induction top, costs 45€, but it works perfectly fine.
- Comment on Factorio that you can touch 2 weeks ago:
Oh, it’s literally just factorio models…bummer
I was hoping it was some of educational modular gear/conveyor/“3DOF robot” system
- Comment on Is there a self-hosted Family Link server? 3 weeks ago:
Seemingly only on the newest version of android…we have a tablet running android 15, and it doesn’t have local parental control.
- Comment on 3D printer with multiple X arms 3 weeks ago:
But with higher complexity
- Comment on Blending filaments? 4 weeks ago:
Purging to infill is also already a thing, so you wouldn’t need to solve that at least, but you need a very high infill percentage to have enough volume to only use that.
IDK, I’m just not sure what benefit this actually has over just having the individual colors of filament you need for a print. It seems to me it adds complexity without really doing a better job.
- Comment on Blending filaments? 4 weeks ago:
I’d mostly worry about controlling color transitions, because you can’t really control the actual color properly when changing the mix for a different color. I think you’d end up needing some sort of purge between colors to avoid weird unwanted color transitions. I don’t think it would provide lower material use or a speed benefit to the existing MMU multicolor solution because of this.
- Comment on Blending filaments? 4 weeks ago:
That would be impossible to control. paper CMYK printers don’t even do it like that.
- Comment on Blending filaments? 4 weeks ago:
No, I’m talking about this
- Comment on Blending filaments? 4 weeks ago:
It’s already a thing in orca and prusaslicer at least
- Comment on M1D advanced vs Core One+INDX I’m almost certainly going to buy either a Sovo 5 weeks ago:
While I 100% prefer the klipper-route of sovol to the Prusa’s semi-closed ecosystem, the price difference seems relatively small between the M1D advanced and the Core One+ INDX, and despite the flaws of the Core one it is likely to be built better.
Oh, and this so-called “upgrade path” Prusa provides, yeah those often suck a lot by being near complete rebuilds with minimal actual savings compared to getting the new printer.
- Comment on 3D printing a house 5 weeks ago:
Yes, which is why we stuff the space between inner and out wall with insulation, usually mineral or glass wool, which have excellent insulation capabilities.
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
I think what they meant by “catching up” would happen at later layers, not later in the same layer. Basically, those layers are bad themselves but putting down enough material in the right places that a future layer will go down correct and smooth. So layer 4 being fine basically agrees with above commenter.
No I’m saying the gap between lines on layer 2 and 3 is the same throughout the entirety of both layers without change (also on walls), but not present at all on layer 4 and onwards.
Are we looking at layer 2 partially complete or layer 3 partially complete?
Partially complete layer 2
The back right area has tell-tell signs of too low z-offset (the very thin pinch lines coming up) but as it moves to the front of the image it looks like the z-offset is too high (not closing the gaps at the ends of lines and defined gaps between lines)
This seems to be unrelated to Z-offset, as it’s happens regardless of print placement and orientation but follows infill direction with the more squished part being towards the end of the layer and the slightly less squished part being the beginning.
The entire bed is within 0.18mm from lowest to highest point, with 0.07mm between highest and lowest corners. According to the probed mesh at least.
Even the layer that is in progress looks like the lines are coming apart as the print head moves from back to front, like the gap is bigger in the front than back.
This is also following infill direction actually, now that I think of it. It starts out almost ok, but gaps occur to a greater extent as solid infill progresses (regardless of print orientation and infill direction)
Has it always done this?
I honestly can’t remember…maybe?
Did you get the printer new?
Yes
How long have you had it?
8 months or so
What temperature was the bed when you took the bed mesh?
55°C, heat soaked. It uses KAMP so it’s a new mesh every print.
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
Having the other side of the model (the back of the picture) appear to be properly squished down
Its not, that’s my shaky-cam photo skills and the angle
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
Yes those lines are exactly the issue for me, that’s the solid infill happening on layer 2 and 3. It’s only those two layers that have this behavior. The first layer is fine (not perfect, but not an issue).
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
Bed is within 0.18mm from lowest to highest point (according to the bed mesh), with all four corners within 0.07mm. It’s the best I could achieve. But again, this is only happening on layer 2 and 3, the bottom solid infill layers. If it was a general structural issue it should be prevalent throughout the model? but it isn’t.
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
Slicer is already included, but yes I should probably also mention the printer
- Comment on what causes this? 5 weeks ago:
Well I don’t have a Bambi Labs printer, so I’ve never used their slicer and I doubt it has profiles for my printer.
- Submitted 1 month ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 19 comments
- Comment on Rayfish is working on my phone! 2 months ago:
Dude, a self hosted WG server creates a tunnel network without relying on central servers. Rayfish is probably just an AI-coded WG server and client combo. It’s “solving” a problem with AI that was already solved without AI.
- Comment on Rayfish is working on my phone! 2 months ago:
That’s not ratfish handling that but the cloudflare DDNS you’re using that handles that. So yes, self hosted WG server handles that just as fast.
- Comment on Rayfish is working on my phone! 2 months ago:
WireGuard still needs a central server that you don’t control.
No, it really doesn’t
- Comment on Rayfish is working on my phone! 2 months ago:
Neither has a wireguard tunnel into your home network, you host the WG server on your own computer (or router even, that’s what I do) and just point your clients to that using either static IP if you have it or a DDNS service like the cloudflare you’re using if you have a dynamic IP.
- Comment on Rayfish is working on my phone! 2 months ago:
So what, this is just yet another app that makes a VPN connection to your home network, but AI-coded instead? Why not use one of the non-AI made solutions?
- Comment on 3D printing services? 2 months ago:
Have you tried to see if there’s a local maker space that let’s you use their 3d printers?
I run a small 3D print business that mostly does B2B, but I handle the occasional B2C. I charge $15 + 10¢/min for single color basic filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA) for B2C. I’m in Europe though but it could give you a price range idea.