ExcessShiv

Dude, a self hosted WG server creates a tunnel network without relying on central servers. Rayfish is probably just an AI-coded WG server and client combo. It’s “solving” a problem with AI that was already solved without AI.

That’s not ratfish handling that but the cloudflare DDNS you’re using that handles that. So yes, self hosted WG server handles that just as fast.

WireGuard still needs a central server that you don’t control.

No, it really doesn’t

Neither has a wireguard tunnel into your home network, you host the WG server on your own computer (or router even, that’s what I do) and just point your clients to that using either static IP if you have it or a DDNS service like the cloudflare you’re using if you have a dynamic IP.

So what, this is just yet another app that makes a VPN connection to your home network, but AI-coded instead? Why not use one of the non-AI made solutions?

Have you tried to see if there’s a local maker space that let’s you use their 3d printers?

I run a small 3D print business that mostly does B2B, but I handle the occasional B2C. I charge $15 + 10¢/min for single color basic filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA) for B2C. I’m in Europe though but it could give you a price range idea.

There’s plenty, where are you located in the world?

Oh man, i totally forgot flashing RGB lights are the only thing in the world that’s fun…silly me

Yes bright flashing RGB lights are generally a juvenile thing…

Ugh…RBG lights are not a “gamer thing”, its a child thing. Grown people are gamers too, they (the ones in my circle at least) don’t have RGB lights in anything anymore. We all did when we were kids 20 years ago though.

Where’s the heresy?

Can you 3D print trimmer line? Yes you can and not only does it kind of work; after drying the material for a night, it performs better than I ever imagined! Printability is excellent even working at temperatures that Bowden hotends could handle, and quality is awesome. Material strength is similar to what I’ve seen in the past with other Nylons with decent layer adhesion and impressive impact strength.

Well I’ll be damned…that’s pretty neat

I’d get a new one at £30

How much does a new one cost? This is a PITA to fix, so I would prefer just getting a new one if its not too expensive.

That’s looks like you fucked up when you assembled the hotend and didn’t do it correctly.

Yeah i read Like 8-12 books per year, at best, it doesn’t make sense to automate any aspect of that.

I just manually transfer books to my reader when I get them. I have them organized by genre on my reader (done manually). This is not an area where I see automation providing any significant benefit to bother setting up and maintaining an automated pipeline.

IMO life is just too short for bad filament, I’d rather pay 5-10$ more for a roll of filament and know that I’m not going to be spending hours and 1/3 of the spool on debugging and failed prints.

IME consistency across batches is almost the most important thing. Some brands print better than others, but none is best across all types. I have 3-4 different brands that I have dialed in and trust to perform the same every time and I stick to those. Buying cheap aliexpress filament is a crapshooter every time, even when sticking to the same brand. Sometimes it works well, sometimes it shortens your life by a decade due to frustration.

Mine runs really well in my somewhat complex yard. I have a firepit with an angled bench, a dugout trampoline, a swing set, several randomly placed trees, and currently an aboveground pool with solar heater in my yard. None of these things are mapped out, I only mapped the edge of my yard with it. It also handles my driveway which is partially covered in grass and accessible through a narrow gate (~10cm on either side of the mower when it passes through). For ~800€ I think it performs really well, and everything is fairly cramped in my 400sqrm yard, so lots of narrow passages for it to navigate.

You can easily get several models capable of more than that now, but they’re pricy.

Frugally (legally) obtained HDDs are still going to cost you a lot of money, there is no way around that at the moment. If you need it, pay up and be done with it. If you just kind of want it, start sorting through your piles of data you don’t actually need (yes, you have that you, atop lying to yourself) to free up space for things you do actually need.

I upgraded to OMV8 from 7 a few months ago, it was surprisingly easy without any issues.

Not when the sensor fails so the feedback to the firmware controlling it is incorrect and there is no thermal fuse.

AFAIK it’s a thermistor that is breaking causing thermal runaway. But this is can only happen during printing where heated/hotend is heating.

Methanol is only a bigger issue if you drink it…unless you were drinking your isopropyl alcohol that’s not a very big concern.

Perhaps proprietary is not the correct word then, but it is exclusively in-house developed by themselves AFAIK. My point is, they insist on reinventing the wheel every time they want to catch up to their competitors because of this, instead of just working together with the open source community.

Prusa is what i would call partly open source these days, the article you link is up to date. But they’re behind the curve at the moment playing catchup with much cheaper printers. This is in part because they insist on their own proprietary firmware instead of working with the massive klipper community which IMO is driving bleeding edge of consumer 3D printing right now, and what almost all their competitors are also using (in some variation).

That more like an item than a material I would say…

Hah I’m not even sure, even cheap materials like plywood have gotten expensive