AnyOldName3

I made this filter printables.com/…/1276996-recirculating-carbon-hep… and attach it to heat-set inserts in the top hat I made rather than to the mounting holes for the spool holder (as I’ve got the spool holder attached there). It’s definitely filtering, but even with a 12V fan being run at 24V, it’s not enough to make the air in the printer fully unsmelly, and not enough to stop the smelly air that leaks making the whole room smell of molten ABS.

There are higher-performance filters like the various Nevermore designs, but they’re more of a pain to print and more complicated than they need to be, and don’t fit anywhere in an SV08 without getting in the way of something and sacrificing print volume.

They never have any signs of wear, and children are always a destructive force, so this is unlikely.

I’ve got printables.com/…/959792-sovol-sv08-enclousure on the top and back (as they’re the panels that didn’t fail, although the top’s a bit droopy as I printed it in black, then put the printer outside on a sunny day so the fumes would blow away when doing some ABS printing before I’d set up extraction for indoors). If you’re printing that yourself, I’d recommend making the screw holes bigger, as the STL has them the right size to tap an M3 thread into instead of the right size to pass an M3 screw through.

I had some spare insulation foam that fit in the gaps in the lid, and lined the rest with a roll of reflective-mylar-backed polystyrene insulation I had lying around, so that helps keep more heat in.

When the panels that failed failed, I just bought some 4mm plywood for £4, drew and cut out some rectangles the same size as the STEP files Sovol released for the printer said they’d needed to be, and drilled some holes where the CAD file said the screws needed to go (plus an extra bonus hole in the wrong place by accident) and a slit to pass the reverse Bowden tube and filament sensor wire through.

The doors are printables.com/…/946451-sovol-sv08-doors-jls-mod-…, which I paid a local man with a laser cutter £30 ish to do in 4mm acrylic.

I also printed a top-hat in ABS once I’d got the enclosure reliably hot enough to have ABS not just warp itself to oblivion. I wasn’t going to risk wasting time doing it in PLA after half the enclosure panels I’d made with it had failed. printables.com/…/1083936-closed-sv08-hat-w-heatse… I added some extra holes for heat-set inserts for an air filter, although in the end, I realised it was better to just extract the fumes as some would inevitably leak out the enclosure.

To extract the fumes, I got some wood and made a panel I could fit over a window to attach an air duct, then I got a cheap mini greenhouse and cut it up so it fit over the whole printer so I could connect the other end of the duct and a fan. If the duct fan is always sucking air out of the tent, then fumes that escape the enclosure don’t go into the room, but the hot air in the enclosure mostly stays in the enclosure, so I don’t lose heat like I would if extracting directly from the printer.

It’s a month-old thread, but just in case you’re still interested:

• I got the graphite bed because it was half-price and I’d had issues with taco bed (in particular, it would be pringle-shaped in one direction for 30-40 minutes after turning the heater on, then ping the other way, so I had to make sure anything was either done quickly or waited for a long preheat).
• I’ve got a partially-printed, partially plywood enclosure for ABS (some panels were fine in PLA as the outside shouldn’t get hot enough to soften and others warped horribly, and I replaced the latter).
• Also for ABS, I’ve got bed fans, which were much easier to set up with the graphite bed as there’s no plastic frame, just a big empty space to blow air into. I’ve yet to get around to publishing the design for the mount I made.
• Various minor software tweaks.

I was under the impression that the PETG flaw with the stock hotend was resolved a couple of months after the printer was released, and anyone with an affected nozzle was eligible for a free replacement (which basically includes an extra grubscrew to hold everything in place). My nozzle was definitely different to the ones I saw photos of after they’d popped apart.

The internal resistance is much lower than that of an alkaline, so for some applications, a 1.2V NiMH will match or beat a 1.5V alkaline, but if you really need the extra 0.3V, then they’re really pants.

When I’ve seen foundations for homes get poured and they haven’t been on a large construction site that’s already been flattened (where the ability to work around things like trees wouldn’t matter), it’s been done by having one or two builders fill up a wheelbarrow with concrete where the concrete mixer lorry could drive to, then wheel it to where the foundations were being poured and empty their wheelbarrows into the foundations.

This machine looks much bigger than a wheelbarrow, and you still need to dig the foundation, so I don’t see how it could possibly need less space to be cleared than just pouring concrete into a hole would.

A shame they’re not brave enough to print a building on a bedslinger.

The problem with this kind of innovation is that it’s improving what’s already one of the fastest and easiest parts of building a house. Digging foundations, plastering the walls, doing the plumbing, doing the electrics and laying the flooring can all individually take longer than the bricklaying, and are much harder to automate.

It’s not automatically resolved on Windows. Applications can export a symbol to hint to drivers that they want the big GPU, just like they can hint with their .desktop file on Linux, but other than that, it’s up to the driver vendor to notice a bunch of users complaining about poor performance in a particular game and manually adding it to a massive whitelist, or the user manually changing a setting.

There’s a parameter that can be set in a .desktop file, PrefersNonDefaultGPU=true, which should force an application to use the dedicated GPU on a laptop, but obviously that doesn’t work for command-line-only tools.