Bluewing
@Bluewing@lemmy.world
- Comment on Ender 3 v3 se y axis bearings loose in carrier. 1 day ago:
Buy the upgrade. It will make you much happier in the end.
- Comment on Ender 3 v3 se y axis bearings loose in carrier. 1 day ago:
The bearing is supposed to self center on the shaft with the fitment between the bearing and the shaft. I can’t imagine the pain of trying to manually adjust those very tight tolerance parts for the perfect alignment. Far better to make the housing the bearing goes into correctly from the start.
- Comment on Poor salmon 2 days ago:
The 2 Angry Beavers did it first. I think it was Dagget that always pronounced the L in salmon. They lived in fear of the salmon spawn run. The salmon would tear their dam/home apart.
And who could ever forget their #1 hit single, Beaver Fever, so smoky and sexy.
- Comment on I'm gonna die on this hill or die trying 5 days ago:
Well, while em dashes can be very useful-- I like to substitute them for parentheses sometimes-- they can be over used and abused-- see AI abuses.
- Comment on Filament won't adhere? 1 week ago:
Well, that’s new information then.
- Comment on Filament won't adhere? 1 week ago:
beirut_bootleg is correct. With bed aheision issues, always start with washing the plate with warm water and dish soap and and a clean paper towel. Dry the plate with a clean paper towel. Keep your fingers from touching the plate’s surface to prevent the oils from your skin coating the plate.
If this doesn’t solve your issue, then we need to try something else.
- Comment on 1919 (correctly) 1 week ago:
This is why you actually answer the phone to prevent 300 voicemails. That’s on you if that happens. And I have repeatedly found that a one or two line text message NEVER conveys the whole message because people do not know how to create a cognizant thought. So I can either spend hours texting back and forth to get the whole picture or you can call me directly, answer my pointed questions, and be done in 60 seconds or less.
- Comment on 1919 (correctly) 1 week ago:
I absolutely hate text messages. I refuse to spend hours of my time sending text messages back and forth to solve a problem that a 60 second phone call could have disposed of.
- Comment on 1919 (correctly) 1 week ago:
It’s better to just leave the phone at home…
- Comment on OK what is your Roman name? 1 week ago:
Yesterday it was grilled porkus steakious. By the end of the day I’m changing it to Homio Smokus Baconius. Just as soon as I get those pork bellies out of the smoker. Then I just need to get those 3 pork loins brined and smoked next weekend.
- Comment on delamination on larger surfaces 1 week ago:
Something to consider perhaps, Just a SWAG
Printing temp? Too low of printing temps can cause poor layer bonding.
Air currents. This is noticeable on open bed printers the most. But even enclosed printers can have issues with cooling fans being on too long and at too high of a speed.
- Comment on Why BambuLabs A1 pooping so frequently? (Sorry, not sorry.) 1 week ago:
Things you might try,
Print something else. Just a small simple cube is enough. If it prints fine, then there is an issue with the model or slicer settings.
If you suspect the slicer, maybe try using Orca slicer to see if that’s the issue. If it prints fine with Orca, then purge everything Studio from your system and reinstall Studio.
If all that fails, then reset your printer back to factory and start over again.
And if that fails, buy a Mk4 or Core One…
- Comment on FYI (opinion.) don't buy an MMU 2 weeks ago:
I did say that for as reliable as I know turrets to be, (decades of run time 10 to 24 hours a day), this is not the proper application for one. Like you, I don’t find the plastic parts to be very comforting.
The idea, despite being misguided, is an attempt to keep those perfectly good older bed slingers out of landfills by giving them extra capabilities to extend their life cycles.
Corexy IS faster and if you are a hobbyist buying your first or perhaps second printer I would recommend one and they are an excellent choice. But Bambu, Prusa, Soval, and Crealty still sell bed slingers for a reason.
- Comment on FYI (opinion.) don't buy an MMU 2 weeks ago:
I have no need of this tool changer myself nor am I selling them. But that Swapper IS the OG tool changer. Industry has been using that turret style tool changer since automatic tool changers have been a thing. So there is no new idea involved in this design, just the application.
Those turrets are dead reliable on machining centers and seemingly never wear out. At least I’ve never had to repair one, even on 30 year old machines. To be fair, those are made from hardened steels parts. And not the plastic of the Swapper. Still the design IS well proven on production floors across the planet.
Fun side note: If you look at the photo on their web site, the turret shows 25 slots. But you can’t load 25 tools, you can only load 24. Because you always need 1 empty slot in the turret to make the first tool change. The 25th tool is already loaded in the print head.
As far speed goes, it’s not like you are actually making the tool changes manually. The turret is still much faster than you and the AMS/MMU systems that are common today. Is it as fast as the Prusa XL or Snapmkaer U1? Nope. But speed matters a lot less than being dead reliable. And the Snapmaker or the Bondtech still remain unproven in that regard. The Prusa XL has been proven to be pretty damn reliable, if expensive. If you want a low cost entry, then the AMS/MMU is the proven system.
My personal opinion about the Swapper is-- a cool try, but this isn’t the correct application for this design. It’s too big and the tech isn’t hobbyist friendly except for a tiny handful of users. And it’s an added cost to the money already spent for a filament changer.
- Comment on FYI (opinion.) don't buy an MMU 2 weeks ago:
There is little reason to abandon a perfectly good older machine that still works just fine all because a newer technology shows up. That’s wasteful of money and material in itself.
I doubt there will be a glut of used Bambu printers being dumped by print farms either. They will continue to use those “old and obsolete” printers until they wear out enough to be replaced at the scheduled time. At which point it could very well make sense to swap them out with better tech. As long as that tech works first time, every time-- which hasn’t been demonstrated yet. It’s one of the major reason many print farms use Bambu printers and not Vorons or Crealty printers.
- Comment on Which Core XY printer? 2 weeks ago:
Yeah, I even find my Mk3s a bit more than I often need for size about 80% of the time. I find my little A1 Mini’s 180^3^^ all I really use most of the time.
- Comment on Which Core XY printer? 2 weeks ago:
The problem is, by the time you add the enclosure, you are at nearly the same price as a Core One kit. Yes, the SV08 is larger, but unless you are into cosplay printing, that extra size is probably a waste of space.
- Comment on How many hands long do they get? 2 weeks ago:
OK, more directly.
Worrying about about which measurements systems are best and making fun of them is for fools. Use the units that best fits that task at hand. And shockingly enough, it ain’t always Millimeters, centimeters, kilometers or degrees Celsius. Maybe it’s pounds, feet, miles, or AU’s and Light years.
The US is a metric country. The federal government passed a law in the early 1970’s to make it so. They just didn’t pass a law forcing the change at a set time and date. They decided, for better or worse, to let the change happen organically. And change it has. Go in any grocery store and look at the food on the shelf, it’s all clearly marked in US customary and grams/kilos. I know every pound of butter I buy is 454grams. My whisk(e)y/wine, (choose the spelling you prefer), comes in 750ml bottles. A bottle of soda comes in 2 liter bottles.My FDM printers use 1 kilo spools of filament. We are all looking for that same missing 10mm socket just like the rest of the world. And no one gives a rat’s arse about how many feet are in a mile. Except surveyor’s and civil engineers, a very small and specialized subset.
Did you know there is a error in what the meter actually is? And it’s been there from the very beginning. One of the guys sent to make the original measurements decided that drinking wine in sunny Spain was better than climbing mountains and dealing with bad weather just to measure some silly distance. So he fudged it. The error has been known for quite a while and never corrected. It’s still there even after the switch from using a physical item to define a meter to how far light travels in a set time, (now THERE’S a silly random looking string of numbers). Not very scientific or accurate to ignore the error now is that? I thought the metric system was better than that.
Again for the slow learners, G20/G21 the machines don’t care and no one else should care anymore either.
- Comment on How many hands long do they get? 2 weeks ago:
It’s 1 3/4 bicycles. Not the weird ass decriminalized number you seem to think it is. We do fractions in daily life not decimals.
I saw a yearling buck eating grass along the driveway yesterday afternoon that had only one antler. I wondered if he was 1/2 a buck or a .50 buck since he had just the one spindly fork horn antler. Will all the does think he’s ugly and not breed with him? Will the other bucks laugh at him and refuse his challenges? He will probably end up in someone’s freezer later this fall anyway, so perhaps my story doesn’t really matter.
But the story isn’t about changing anyone’s views on what is the “best” measuring system to use. It’s about the foolishness of it all. G20/G21 the machines no longer care, why do you?
- Comment on Dazzling! 2 weeks ago:
Never attribute pregnancy to what can be simply explained by poor taste.
- Comment on Need help with printer recommendations 3 weeks ago:
Special needs often require special materials. You have special requirements and can use those materials. When I have special needs for materials, I just walk up to my garage and machine things out of metals. I have a lathe, mill, drill press, air compressors, and welders. But, I’m that extreme outlier your momma warned you about…Not everyone has the room, knowledge and skills to do that. So, 3D printing is a very good substitute for most people.
Still, don’t dismiss those ‘basic’ filaments either. I have made more than one bending die set to bend up to 10ga/3mm steel out of the cheapest most basic PLA I can buy. It won’t last for 10,000 parts, but I know can can get a dozen bends from it. And more depending on the material and thickness of it. And no, it doesn’t take 100% infill either. 15% or 20% infill is enough. It’s all about the number of walls.
Experiment, try, fail, succeed, and most important, have fun learning.
- Comment on Issues with model, slicing or printer settings and/or calibration? 3 weeks ago:
It’s possible your original Blender design had an issue. Blender is not always kind to 3D printers.
The first thing I would tell you is to stop using cubic infill, it is evil. It never always causes me failed prints, especially larger prints. Nozzles often tend to drag across the previous layers and can easily cause failed prints. I can even hear the nozzle hitting the infill as I print. I often recommend gyroid as a good all around infill pattern.
How to think about this design problem.
I look at it and I wonder, does the rolling pin need to be supported full length? A wooden rolling pin is ridged and only needs minimal support on the ends. So I might just design the cradle only at the very ends. And then design the middle to be a simple flat that connects the two end pieces. I might even skip the middle altogether and just print the ends. That saves the most material and time and still does the job perfectly.
When it comes to slicing your print, orientation matters. How you support overhangs can be tricky and often compromises must be made. While I will use the auto supports as often as I can, sometimes you just need to use paint on supports to get what you needwhere you need it. Pay attention to the top zed support gap. The defaults are never right. I always open them up more. With a .40mm nozzle, I use a .265mm gap. For a .60mm nozzle, a .365mm gap.
You might even need to print your parts at an angle. Often tipping the part at 30 to 45 degree angle can make those nasty over hangs completely printable without supports.
And this is only a good beginning. How fast you might print an overhang matters, the amount of cooling fan can affect the over hang, lots of fine details that you will learn about as you keep doing this.
Good Luck and never fear making a mistake!
- Comment on I'm Unable to get any PETG HF Filament to Stick on the Bed after having Switched from a 0.4mm to a 0.2mm Nozzle [Bambu P1S] 3 weeks ago:
A quick and dirty thing to try is to increase your first layer height, .1mm layer is a pretty fine layer line. Bumping the height up can give you a bit more contact area and increase adhesion some. And slow down. The default settings are NOT gospel and the HF doesn’t mean you can or should print that fast. I find when using such fine nozzles I often need to reduce feed rates by 30 to 40% to get things to hold. And I even drop the acceleration rates by 10 to 15% to keep corners from not sticking well.
Speed ain’t everything.
- Comment on Need help with printer recommendations 3 weeks ago:
An air fryer is an interesting idea if you happen to have one handy. But even dedicated filament dryers are a bit cheaper to buy, let alone a used dehydrator. And few people are using expensive engineering filament either to scratch build
- Comment on Need help with printer recommendations 4 weeks ago:
PETG is tougher and in certain situations stronger than ABS. PETG also has better chemical and UV resistance. But PETG has a lower glass transition temperature, about 80C vs 100C.
Both PETG and ABS/ASA benefit from enclosed and heated chamber printers but PETG is a lot easier to print with an open bed. Both of my printers are open bed and PETG is very easy to print.
PETG is somewhat hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the environment. Making the filament a pain to print and prone to nasty stringing. So it should be stored sealed in a dry bag/box. Having a way to dry filament is a good idea. You can do so with a cheap food dehydrator or a dedicated filament dry for the purpose.
PETG has pretty much supplanted ABS in FDM printing. It’s often cheaper than ABS these days too. Between PLA, PETG, and TPU, those 3 filaments should cover 90%+ of all your printing needs.
- Comment on Is there no good inexpensive CAD software? 4 weeks ago:
Put down your participation trophy for a minute. It’s nice you feel the need to ride to the rescue, but sometimes the truth just sucks.
OP openly claims to have poor math skills and lacks spatial awareness. If that’s the case, he’s not ever going to have an easy time. Those are 2 skills you need to have, at least to some degree, if you even want to start with designing things. And he naively expects,“free, easy, and professional” results NOW! Then lists his reasons on why he doesn’t like any of the free versions of OnShape and Fusion and FreeCAD. And I doubt OP would do any better with SolidEdge either.
OP wants something he cannot have-- instant skill without personal effort or aptitude, (again from his OWN words). Life don’t work that way Buttercup.
- Comment on Is there no good inexpensive CAD software? 4 weeks ago:
I will be blunt. If you are as bad at math and spatial reasoning as you say, then CAD probably isn’t for you. You will always find it difficult and unrewarding. Design and engineering require a mindset you might not have.
As far as “cheap and easy and professional” CAD they ALL require effort to learn and money to gain entry for commercial versions. CAD is a skill and skills require effort to acquire. And it sounds as if you have no desire to put in very much effort.
For a CAD program to meet your want of cheap and simple, (professional means a lot of money and takes more than a few minutes of effort), look at TinkerCAD. It’s free and simple enough that I teach that to 5th and 6th grade students well enough for them to make simple objects. Ain’t nothing wrong with starting there and learning how to think about design and CAD before you might try and step into more demanding software.
- Comment on Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C 5 weeks ago:
It is hard to decide. But at some point you need to pays your money and takes your chances. No any one machine is the perfect design. They all have faults. So, perhaps you might want to consider which faults you are willing to live with and which ones you can’t live with.
- Comment on Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C 5 weeks ago:
Do you think Bambu doesn’t already have patents on their nozzle swap system? Open source is already a day late and dollar short.
- Comment on Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C 5 weeks ago:
Prusa costs more for a reason. They are built in the EU, which is frankly a far more expensive place to manufacture anything compared to China. But, Prusa will also support your printer for longer than anyone else will support their printers. And Bambu and all the rest of the China made printers still lag behind in customer service. Customer service is very expensive to offer. While Bambu’s service is better than the rest of the Chinese made machines, that’s a low bar indeed.
I have an A1 Mini combo. My opinion about Bambu is: Good hardware, as good as anyone else’s. Not so good software/firmware-- they need a lot better software engineers for sure, CS is getting more and more spotty, and everyone pretty much agrees-- questionable business practices.
I’m not trying to talk into buying one or not. Just giving you my personal experience with my one Bambu printer and one Prusa printer.