Bluewing

@Bluewing@lemmy.world

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How many hands long do they get?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  OK, more directly.

  Worrying about about which measurements systems are best and making fun of them is for fools. Use the units that best fits that task at hand. And shockingly enough, it ain’t always Millimeters, centimeters, kilometers or degrees Celsius. Maybe it’s pounds, feet, miles, or AU’s and Light years.

  The US is a metric country. The federal government passed a law in the early 1970’s to make it so. They just didn’t pass a law forcing the change at a set time and date. They decided, for better or worse, to let the change happen organically. And change it has. Go in any grocery store and look at the food on the shelf, it’s all clearly marked in US customary and grams/kilos. I know every pound of butter I buy is 454grams. My whisk(e)y/wine, (choose the spelling you prefer), comes in 750ml bottles. A bottle of soda comes in 2 liter bottles.My FDM printers use 1 kilo spools of filament. We are all looking for that same missing 10mm socket just like the rest of the world. And no one gives a rat’s arse about how many feet are in a mile. Except surveyor’s and civil engineers, a very small and specialized subset.

  Did you know there is a error in what the meter actually is? And it’s been there from the very beginning. One of the guys sent to make the original measurements decided that drinking wine in sunny Spain was better than climbing mountains and dealing with bad weather just to measure some silly distance. So he fudged it. The error has been known for quite a while and never corrected. It’s still there even after the switch from using a physical item to define a meter to how far light travels in a set time, (now THERE’S a silly random looking string of numbers). Not very scientific or accurate to ignore the error now is that? I thought the metric system was better than that.

  Again for the slow learners, G20/G21 the machines don’t care and no one else should care anymore either.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How many hands long do they get?⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s 1 3/4 bicycles. Not the weird ass decriminalized number you seem to think it is. We do fractions in daily life not decimals.

  I saw a yearling buck eating grass along the driveway yesterday afternoon that had only one antler. I wondered if he was 1/2 a buck or a .50 buck since he had just the one spindly fork horn antler. Will all the does think he’s ugly and not breed with him? Will the other bucks laugh at him and refuse his challenges? He will probably end up in someone’s freezer later this fall anyway, so perhaps my story doesn’t really matter.

  But the story isn’t about changing anyone’s views on what is the “best” measuring system to use. It’s about the foolishness of it all. G20/G21 the machines no longer care, why do you?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Dazzling!⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  Never attribute pregnancy to what can be simply explained by poor taste.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Need help with printer recommendations⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  Special needs often require special materials. You have special requirements and can use those materials. When I have special needs for materials, I just walk up to my garage and machine things out of metals. I have a lathe, mill, drill press, air compressors, and welders. But, I’m that extreme outlier your momma warned you about…Not everyone has the room, knowledge and skills to do that. So, 3D printing is a very good substitute for most people.

  Still, don’t dismiss those ‘basic’ filaments either. I have made more than one bending die set to bend up to 10ga/3mm steel out of the cheapest most basic PLA I can buy. It won’t last for 10,000 parts, but I know can can get a dozen bends from it. And more depending on the material and thickness of it. And no, it doesn’t take 100% infill either. 15% or 20% infill is enough. It’s all about the number of walls.

  Experiment, try, fail, succeed, and most important, have fun learning.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Issues with model, slicing or printer settings and/or calibration?⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s possible your original Blender design had an issue. Blender is not always kind to 3D printers.

  The first thing I would tell you is to stop using cubic infill, it is evil. It never always causes me failed prints, especially larger prints. Nozzles often tend to drag across the previous layers and can easily cause failed prints. I can even hear the nozzle hitting the infill as I print. I often recommend gyroid as a good all around infill pattern.

  How to think about this design problem.

  I look at it and I wonder, does the rolling pin need to be supported full length? A wooden rolling pin is ridged and only needs minimal support on the ends. So I might just design the cradle only at the very ends. And then design the middle to be a simple flat that connects the two end pieces. I might even skip the middle altogether and just print the ends. That saves the most material and time and still does the job perfectly.

  When it comes to slicing your print, orientation matters. How you support overhangs can be tricky and often compromises must be made. While I will use the auto supports as often as I can, sometimes you just need to use paint on supports to get what you needwhere you need it. Pay attention to the top zed support gap. The defaults are never right. I always open them up more. With a .40mm nozzle, I use a .265mm gap. For a .60mm nozzle, a .365mm gap.

  You might even need to print your parts at an angle. Often tipping the part at 30 to 45 degree angle can make those nasty over hangs completely printable without supports.

  And this is only a good beginning. How fast you might print an overhang matters, the amount of cooling fan can affect the over hang, lots of fine details that you will learn about as you keep doing this.

  Good Luck and never fear making a mistake!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I'm Unable to get any PETG HF Filament to Stick on the Bed after having Switched from a 0.4mm to a 0.2mm Nozzle [Bambu P1S]⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  A quick and dirty thing to try is to increase your first layer height, .1mm layer is a pretty fine layer line. Bumping the height up can give you a bit more contact area and increase adhesion some. And slow down. The default settings are NOT gospel and the HF doesn’t mean you can or should print that fast. I find when using such fine nozzles I often need to reduce feed rates by 30 to 40% to get things to hold. And I even drop the acceleration rates by 10 to 15% to keep corners from not sticking well.

  Speed ain’t everything.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Need help with printer recommendations⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  An air fryer is an interesting idea if you happen to have one handy. But even dedicated filament dryers are a bit cheaper to buy, let alone a used dehydrator. And few people are using expensive engineering filament either to scratch build

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Need help with printer recommendations⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  PETG is tougher and in certain situations stronger than ABS. PETG also has better chemical and UV resistance. But PETG has a lower glass transition temperature, about 80C vs 100C.

  Both PETG and ABS/ASA benefit from enclosed and heated chamber printers but PETG is a lot easier to print with an open bed. Both of my printers are open bed and PETG is very easy to print.

  PETG is somewhat hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the environment. Making the filament a pain to print and prone to nasty stringing. So it should be stored sealed in a dry bag/box. Having a way to dry filament is a good idea. You can do so with a cheap food dehydrator or a dedicated filament dry for the purpose.

  PETG has pretty much supplanted ABS in FDM printing. It’s often cheaper than ABS these days too. Between PLA, PETG, and TPU, those 3 filaments should cover 90%+ of all your printing needs.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is there no good inexpensive CAD software?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Put down your participation trophy for a minute. It’s nice you feel the need to ride to the rescue, but sometimes the truth just sucks.

  OP openly claims to have poor math skills and lacks spatial awareness. If that’s the case, he’s not ever going to have an easy time. Those are 2 skills you need to have, at least to some degree, if you even want to start with designing things. And he naively expects,“free, easy, and professional” results NOW! Then lists his reasons on why he doesn’t like any of the free versions of OnShape and Fusion and FreeCAD. And I doubt OP would do any better with SolidEdge either.

  OP wants something he cannot have-- instant skill without personal effort or aptitude, (again from his OWN words). Life don’t work that way Buttercup.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is there no good inexpensive CAD software?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I will be blunt. If you are as bad at math and spatial reasoning as you say, then CAD probably isn’t for you. You will always find it difficult and unrewarding. Design and engineering require a mindset you might not have.

  As far as “cheap and easy and professional” CAD they ALL require effort to learn and money to gain entry for commercial versions. CAD is a skill and skills require effort to acquire. And it sounds as if you have no desire to put in very much effort.

  For a CAD program to meet your want of cheap and simple, (professional means a lot of money and takes more than a few minutes of effort), look at TinkerCAD. It’s free and simple enough that I teach that to 5th and 6th grade students well enough for them to make simple objects. Ain’t nothing wrong with starting there and learning how to think about design and CAD before you might try and step into more demanding software.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  It is hard to decide. But at some point you need to pays your money and takes your chances. No any one machine is the perfect design. They all have faults. So, perhaps you might want to consider which faults you are willing to live with and which ones you can’t live with.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Do you think Bambu doesn’t already have patents on their nozzle swap system? Open source is already a day late and dollar short.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Prusa costs more for a reason. They are built in the EU, which is frankly a far more expensive place to manufacture anything compared to China. But, Prusa will also support your printer for longer than anyone else will support their printers. And Bambu and all the rest of the China made printers still lag behind in customer service. Customer service is very expensive to offer. While Bambu’s service is better than the rest of the Chinese made machines, that’s a low bar indeed.

  I have an A1 Mini combo. My opinion about Bambu is: Good hardware, as good as anyone else’s. Not so good software/firmware-- they need a lot better software engineers for sure, CS is getting more and more spotty, and everyone pretty much agrees-- questionable business practices.

  I’m not trying to talk into buying one or not. Just giving you my personal experience with my one Bambu printer and one Prusa printer.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  As an old and retired engineer, I see the wisdom of really chasing the concept. The system SHOULD be cheaper and more reliable due to fewer parts. But that doesn’t mean YOU get to see the price savings…Toss in a few patents and buyer lock-in is assured.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  My understanding is they do have prototypes that aren’t quite ready for primetime. From an engineering perspective, the system should be cheaper due to fewer expensive parts like motors, heaters, and thermistors-- fewer parts generally means better reliability too. And it’s far more compact and can even fit into a smaller printer if desired.

  I do see some issues, nozzle manufacturing is going to need to be E3D quality or better. And the number of nozzles is odd. They claim 7 nozzles, but their AMS system can hold 4 spools. You can daisy chain up to 3 AMS I think for either 8 or 12 spools per machine. This means with 7 nozzles, you are either going to have 3 extra nozzles with 1 AMS or 1 or 2 extra spools with the extra AMS you can’t use with your 7 nozzles. A strange design choice if 7 is the number. It’s kind of the number of hotdogs in a pack vs the number of hotdog buns in a bag problem.

  And the even more basic question-- Just how many nozzles do 3D printers really need? Can the average user make use of all those extra nozzle enough to justify the extra cost? Now, print farms and companies that do a lot of prototyping and perhaps some limited on-site manufacturing can benefit, can regularly take advantage. But Geoffrey or Maybeline? Perhaps less so. Maybe even a whole lot less so based on price sensitivity. To use another real world example, Shaving razors. Just how many blades does it take to shave with? 1 or 100 at a time. 1 blade will work, 2 might get you an improvement, but are you really getting enough improvement with dragging 6 blades across your face at one time vs the extra cost? Does the cost of the poop out weight the cost of the extra nozzles for the majority of user needs?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  The affordable tool changer wars begun they have. Thanks to Snapmaker. It does remain to be seen if a “cheap” tool changer can withstand the use and abuse of the great unwashed masses. Something we won’t really know for 6 months to a year from when they really get out.

  While I’m not a customer for anyone’s tool changer, as I have 2 bed slingers I’m quite happy with, but engineering advantages are large and doable enough. And if Bambu is truly successful with it, it’s going to wreak the market.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2C⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  My personal opinion is the H2 series is going to be a real problem for other brands. While I don’t see it as a threat to cheap and simpler printers, like Soval or Crealty is in no real danger, brands like my beloved Prusa and others like Snapmaker and Qidi or are going to be in for a rough time while they try to catch up. If they can.

  I wonder what printers will be cut from Bambu’s current lineup also. I think the X series is the most likely. With the A series being in no danger, Bambu needs cheap entry level machines on offer to hook consumers into the brand. And I can see the P series hanging in there too for mid-tier machine.

  The only thing I see slowing down Bambu series printers is the cost. But advanced hobbyists, print farms, and other business will pay the freight. I’m not so sure the average casual user will though.

• Hot on the heels of the H2S, Bambu Lab announces the seven-color, wireless nozzle-swapping Vortek H2Cwww.tomshardware.com ↗
  Submitted ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩ | ⁨17⁩ ⁨comments⁩
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Upgrading from Bambu Lab A1 Mini⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I ranked them pretty much in the order I have them. Snapmaker might be a tiny bit above the Carbon, but it needs to be see yet. It seems Qidi is also making it difficult to run vanilla Klipper on the new Q2. But they have been very good about open software in the past. Owners of the Q2 aren’t complaining yet. So perhaps they are just slow. Again, YMMV.

  What is really scary is Bambu’s new H2 series. Bambu is building a new eco-system with them. And the waiting to be released H2 automatic nozzle changing system is going to break 3D printing I believe. Instead of a traditional tool changer like the Prusa XL or Snapmaker’s version, Bambu is going to just swap the nozzles. Which makes for a far more compact and noticeably cheaper system. This appears to be the first real original idea Bambu has designed vs using already developed ideas.

  No matter what you think about Bambu’s business practices, you need to give them flowers for the disruption of the status quo and then delivering good hardware to back it up. It took several years for manufacturers to catch up with the AMS systems that everyone and their brother offers now. Bambu even got Crealty to up their QC and offerings. And now a new idea tool change system? It’s about to get real for the rest of the field…

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Are you not entertained?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  What I find hilariously, self-centered and tone deaf, funny is they announced the engagement on a day when across the NFL players were getting cut and losing their jobs across the league on cut down day.

  40 of Kelsy’s team mates lost their jobs on that day. But I suppose overshadowing that got the NFL more clicks and eyeballs.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Tesla sales plunge 40% in Europe as Chinese EV rival BYD's triple⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  That was for show. And not to fix the underlying problems. If he cared, he would actually find and fix the problems.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Upgrading from Bambu Lab A1 Mini⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  First, leave the mini on the current firmware if you enjoy using Orca. Mine is locked to 1.04 and on LAN.

  I’m a Prusa fan boy, so I would recommend the Core 1. If I was starting over, that’s what I would buy. But there a some other good choices out there.

  Qidi often gets over looked, They have the Plus 4 and now the Q2 both can be used with the Qidi box, their ams knockoff.

  The Elegoo Centari Carbon has been more good than bad it seems, but it seems there have been complaints about the klipper version it runs is locked so vanilla klipper won’t run on it. And Elegoo won’t release the open source parts of the code to allow it. YMMV

  The new Snapmaker is interesting, but I would be wary until it gets out into the wild and the great unwashed masses start breaking it before I would invest.

  Crealty has upped their game, but I’m personally still wary.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Ordinary people know what Linux is, they just don’t care about. So the effect is the pretty much the same, but for different reasons.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Tesla sales plunge 40% in Europe as Chinese EV rival BYD's triple⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I don’t think Musk much cares or ever did. The goal was to milk tesla for every last dime.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The Browser Wasn’t Enough, Google Wants To Control All Your Software⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I spent a mere $500 for my Pixel 9a. Most expensive phone I’ve ever owned. But at least I can send a text message from inside my house and make phones from out in my yard now.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambu Lab announces the Vortek H2C, an automatic nozzle-changing version of the H2D⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  2 mouse clicks and I can tell the slicer what filament and color is where on my AMS lite. If you are running a print farm and swapping filaments constantly, that’s maybe one thing. But I have 2 printers, only one of which is a Bambu. And the one spool of Bambu filament I bought demonstrated very clearly to me that the RFID tag is not worth any money to me.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambu Lab announces the Vortek H2C, an automatic nozzle-changing version of the H2D⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I’m not hung up on any one brand. I’ve been doing this long enough to know I can make any cheap filament print well. I watch for sales and I can easily save $5 or more per kilo without needing to buy 10 or more kilos at time. I have 4 kilos of AnyCubic filament I just payed $10 per kilo for. So, yes Bambu filament costs a lot more for no better quality.

  Unlike many here, I’m super big on inventory management. Storing large amounts of materials that I have no real immediate use for costs money. Money I can use elsewhere to better effect. Right now, discounting the spools hanging for my Bambu Mini and Prusa Mk3s, I have 6 kilos of new unopened and a few partials that are getting used up.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Framework unveils a second-generation Framework Laptop 16 with a swappable Nvidia RTX 5070 GPU, an industry first, shipping in November 2025⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s getting harder and harder to afford high end computers. I have already decided my next new computer will be a mini desktop. They are noticeably cheaper, can be well spec’ed, and powerful with a small foot print.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambu Lab announces the Vortek H2C, an automatic nozzle-changing version of the H2D⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  My opinion is these printers are aimed a lot more at print farms and other businesses that use 3D printing than the average consumer/hobbyist. And the pricing will reflect that. I think that the X series printers get faded and Bambu keeps the A and P Series printers. The A series for beginners and the cheap bastids like me. The P series then becomes the flagship consumer models. While the H series is the prosumer market. The nozzle swapper is aimed at the heart of print farms where every milligram of waste is money lost.

  I’m quite sure Bambu has all the patents locked up and it’s going to be a good while before we will other printers with similar technology.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambu Lab announces the Vortek H2C, an automatic nozzle-changing version of the H2D⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I still have my Mk3s too. But, there was a a harder learning curve to getting a quality print from that Mk3s than there is to the Mini/AMS combo I have next to it. And casuals want that ease of use. Just unbox, plug it in hang a spool of Bambu branded filament with RFID then slice and print.

  Like it or not, few people want to spent time running calibration models and temp towers. Raging against the sea is a losing battle.