morbidcactus

@morbidcactus@lemmy.ca

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Looking to get my first 3d printer, any suggestions?⁩ ⁨⁨19⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  I’d totally suggest looking for used prusas personally, something like a mk3s is definitely slow by today’s standards but they’re super capable, very simple and easy to maintain. I’ve modded mine to the point that the rails and axis steppers are the only original components and planning another mod right now. If you could find one for a reasonable price it’s a great platform.

  I really like Vorons and other open source printers, I’ve seen decent reviews of some of the formbot kits for something like a v0.2, includes a bunch of mods you’d probably look at eventually anyhow, I’m not sure if this is in USD or localised to CAD but with printed parts and a dragon hotend (highly recommend, v6 hotends are a pain imo, they work but having the block fixed is so much nicer) is $429 from china. It’s capable of printing every part for larger Voron models (and obviously stuff like abs) and is more importantly enclosed.

  Add something like a nevermore micro to it (component kit) and you’re solid (recommend enclosed and filtered, ideally you don’t print in the same room you’re in without good fume handling, I’ve done unenclosed abs in my office back 12 years ago, abs these days doesn’t stink as bad but from experience it’s super unpleasant, 0/10 do not recommend, I did it exactly once)

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[Looking for advice] Searching for a small slim twistable connector⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago⁩:

  Second recommendation of the engineer PA-09, handled everything from molex microfits to tiny jst gh happily. I’ve used crappy ratcheting ones due to the volume I had to do on one project and ended up redoing half of them anyhow.

  Dont cheap out on tools.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What are your favorite open source 3D printers?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  There’s so many mods out there for them too because of their openness, I’ve got a v2.4, flying gantry is cool as heck but I’d consider doing a trident, the 350mm bed size is overkill for most of my prints.

  I find mine produces some really nice parts, able to hit chamber temps into the 60s pretty reliably, warp isn’t really a huge concern for me with it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I'm Unable to get any PETG HF Filament to Stick on the Bed after having Switched from a 0.4mm to a 0.2mm Nozzle [Bambu P1S]⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Are you able to mess with the first layer offset on the bambu printers? May need to bring your nozzle a bit closer, especially with a textured surface. Temps seem comparable to the stuff I have on hand.

  For cleaning, is soap and water compatible with your surface? Personally found that while IPA is fine for maintenance, a few drops of unscented dish soap in water works extremely well as a degreaser, I’ve literally washed stubborn surfaces in the sink. Petg is super picky with any residual oils and the small nozzle could totally make that worse.

  Maybe try running slower? Just to eliminate variables, may be worth running a quick extrusion calibration? Petg can be an absolute pain for bed adhesion in my experience.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How Transparent is Clear Resin in actual use?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I posted this a while back, came across a post on hackaday on doing clear lens on a resin printer with lower effort, the article links an older one about doing clear resin prints that might be helpful. To me they look pretty decent, certainly a heck of a lot better than any transparent prints I’ve done with a filament printer.

  As others said though, easiest would probably be doing something like laser cut acrylic and sandwiching the picture between them.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨TPU trouble, mostly dialed in but...⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  It’ll cause more zits and the like, more stringing, don’t know that’d 100% cause the issue but certainly won’t help.

  I just did a round of nylon last week which is also super hygroscopic, bag’s like at most 8 months old but seal was intact. Even printing out of a drybox with fresh desiccant I noticed more stringing and occasional blobs + nozzle buildup over the few days (Was redoing my hotend so I inspected it, no sign of nozzle leaking), can definitely make overhangs worse.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨TPU trouble, mostly dialed in but...⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Could try turning the bow forward and see if that changes anything. From what I’ve read, start low with the fan, like 10-15%.

  All else fails, still say worth drying it if you can, I’ve had some really damp spools fresh out of the bag before.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨TPU trouble, mostly dialed in but...⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  What printer and what orientation did you print these?

  Almost looks like some of the ones I’ve done in abs where I didn’t get proper cooling (turned to have the bow front 45°, 90° being straight toward the rear of the printer for reference) either from my fan settings or orientation, could try increasing the fan speed? I know you said you’ve dropped the temperature but personally I still find I need to have the part cooling fan on (do print enclosed though so YMMV)

  How dry is the filament, afaik tpu is hygroscopic (been a while since I’ve printed with it unfortunately), I’ve seen messy bow show up on less dry filament, always worth a try anyhow just to remove variables.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Does It Make Sense To Upgrade A Prusa MK4S To A Core One?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Semi related, I was thinking about turning my mk3 into a core xy, came across a conversion for a mk3s that looks to reuse quite a few components, ProosaXY. I really like how many different mods people have done with these old machines, definitely helps keep things useful

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨BL A1 Textured PEI plate, print is warping. What to try first?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  100% this, bed cleanliness is the first thing I’d look at for any adhesion issue. Dilute soap and water works well too, just pay attention to your surface, some don’t like any solvents or water, just a wipe with micro fibre.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The Terminal Demise Of Consumer Electronics Through Subscription Services⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  FiiO has some that aren’t super pricey (they run a range, their entry level stuff is usually really affordable), their amps and DACs are pretty solid in my experience so I’d totally look into one, second hand would definitely be an option there too.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Day 387 of posting a Daily Screenshot from the games I've been playing⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I’ve come to really like WW over the years, that and TP may be my favourite of the console Zelda games, the graphics of WW aged pretty well imo, art style still looks great some 23 years later.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Periodic reminder to get your library cards and fill out museum surveys.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  Some places will issue library cards if you work in the city but don’t live there just as an fyi.

  Some systems let you check out and sync to an e-reader too, kobos work with my system but I think there’s other ways to get then on there.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Gamers have you ever been in a game competition or something similar?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  Way back in the day, the Cyberathlete Professional League (CPL) had an amateur league fittingly called the Cyberathelete Amateur League (CAL), we had a small team for Enemy Territory: Quake Wars that we competed in, didn’t do stellar but it was a blast, met people from other teams we’d often practice with or just do pub games. It was total beer league type stuff, if you can find a group like that imo it’s worth it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Physicists Create First-Ever Antimatter Qubit, Making the Quantum World Even Weirder⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  It’d be coated, but processing, rolling metal generates a lot of heat, especially going that thin (thinnest I was around often was ~0.2mm), we’d often temper the material after processing, mainly for surface finish, mill rolls would be sprayed with lubricating coolant really close to what you’d see in use on a milling machine. This was with steel but same principle applies, pretty sure the lubricant we used is also labeled for use on aluminum mills, but you’d use food safe stuff for kitchen foil.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨datacenter liquid cooling solution⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  Industrial cooling towers are usually evaporative in my experience, smaller ones are large fans moving air over a stack of slats that the return water is sprayed or piped over and the collects in well for recirculation, larger ones afaik (like what you’d see at power plants) operate the same way. Top ups and water chemistry is all automated.

  Those systems have operation wide cooling loops that individual pieces of equipment tap into, some stuff uses it directly (see that with things like industrial furnaces) but smaller stuff or stuff that’s sensitive you’ll see heat exchangers and even then the server & PLC rooms were all air cooled, the air cons for them were all tied into the cooling water loops though.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Anubis, The Opensource Defender Against AI Bots: I fight bots in my free time⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Afaik, almost every browser uses “Mozilla/5.0” as part of the user agent, Mozilla mentions it as well in developer docs about User agents, it’s a historical compatibility thing apparently.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How to dry silica gel⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I do this, I have a toaster oven that lives in my garage solely for shop use. Have some foil to act as a bit of a heat deflector, seems to work well enough.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you have cut off mainstream music streaming, how do you discover new music or artists and songs like what you're listening frequently?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Bandcamp, I follow a bunch of labels that’ve done releases I like and have set up a bunch of genre tags, I’ll go through every so often and go through releases, see what jumps out at me.

  Otherwise, there’s a few reviewers I’ve come to trust over the years, my partner likes angrymetalguy and both follow Rez Metal Podcast. Otherwise it’s forums, Lemmy, reddit or other online community.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What's an absolutely medium quality game? Not great, incredible or terrible or any single ended extreme. Dead medium quality⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  From the 360 Era — Too Human
  The control scheme is bizarre at first (right stick is melee) but it works once you’re used to it. It’s Sci-Fi Norse mythology, I recall it having a pretty solid art style. I picked it up used from either Blockbuster or EB because I wanted to see just how bad it was, ended up enjoying it far more than I expected, I’ll give it a “Yeah, it’s ok”, disc images are readily available if you want to emulate it, can find a physical copy cheap online too if that’s your thing.

  This is the game that ended up taking down its studio (Silicon Knights, they developed Eternal Darkness: Sanity’s Requiem and Blood Omen: Legacy of Kain, they tried to sue Epic, who countersued and won, probably added to my initial interested tbh.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I designed and made a thing!⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I did some testing for some parts for my dad, he keeps bees and lost a shaft support for one of his tools when he was reassembling it, he whipped up a replacement and fired me the stl when I was talking about my printers.

  Printing with the shaft in the z needed a lot of supports,

  Image, laying it on its “back” was by far the easiest, outside of the support looked a little gross, could have benefitted from supports. Did them all in petg, gave them all to him just so he can get a feel for what 3D printed parts look like as he’s interested in getting one himself (trying to sell him on a v0 if he’s not sure, but kinda thinking about doing a trident)

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help please: heating block gooed up with PLA⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

  Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.

  Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨cannot get an even first layer with a voron trident⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

  I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I have z braces on my bear modded mk3s too, things reliable as heck and easy to service.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨cannot get an even first layer with a voron trident⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

  How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

  And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[deleted]⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

  Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[deleted]⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah, didn’t think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

  I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it’s not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I’m betting it’s not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[deleted]⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Prefacing this, I have no idea, can’t find any information either, I’m just speculating for what it’s worth.
  .What’s kinda interesting is someone posted an identical one to the prusa forums like 2 years ago, no responses unfortunately.

  I’m willing to guess it’s data, I’d wondered if it was unique per user but if you both have encountered it… don’t think that’s the case. I’m going to assume it’s sending a blob, vaguely reminds me of image thumbnails in gcode, but those are clear that’s what they are, maybe it’s some executable code that changes printer parameters or how the subsequent gcode is processed by the controller to support the HyperFFF mode.

  Don’t love it personally, but I’m willing to assume they’re doing this way to obfuscate what’s happening because its proprietary rather than anything malicious. I don’t really have the tools or knowledge to really try to examine it further however, hopefully someone with that skillset is interested enough.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The Prusa Mk4 has done it again ☹️⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Says a lot that it can run pretty much maintenance free for a year and a half! I only had issues with my mk3s doing daily enclosed abs prints in the summer, the original petg softened and it ended up killing the idler end of the x axis (idler mount deformed suddenly under tension after like… 1-2 months of that). They may not be the fastest or fanciest but they’re easy to service and in my experience pretty reliable, I repacked the linear bearings after a year or so out of precaution when I did a full rebuild, but I don’t expect needing to do that for a long time.

  Here’s another prusa article for infill patterns, the prusa knowledge base is really decent and applicable to a variety of printers, I use my voron a lot but still refer to it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The Prusa Mk4 has done it again ☹️⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

  Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I’ve seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don’t know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that’s not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.