morbidcactus
@morbidcactus@lemmy.ca
- Comment on Is this a thing in any slicers? 1 day ago:
Kinda sounds like combine infill layers in prusa/super slicer, that setting will have it do the perimeters as per normal but do infil at 1/2/3 etc layers, so 0.2 layers would get infill every 0.4 at 2, so it’ll print the perimeters and anything that can’t be merged, go to the next layer and do the perimeters and chunky infill, I use it to save time and I haven’t noticed much difference in functionality.
- Comment on Common printing questions 5 days ago:
Could have a bot that links to a git wiki, or even just a sidebar with knowledge base stuff would be nice for that.
- Comment on I Will Fucking Piledrive You If You Mention AI Again — Ludicity 1 week ago:
I’m a data engineer/architect and it’s the same over here, I get asked constantly “how can we stuff AI into this solution?”, never “should we consider using AI here? Is there a value?”, my view, people don’t understand their data and don’t want to put in the effort to understand their data and think that it’ll magically pull actionable insights from their dataswamp, nothing new, that’s been a constant for as long as I recall.
Like I totally understand the draw of new and exciting, but there’s so much you can do with traditional analytics, and in my view you really need to have a good foundation before doing anything else.
- Comment on I found a way to keep my chamber temps up for long/big ASA prints 5 weeks ago:
What’s your chamber temp with bed fans like? I just mounted a chamber thermistor (on the floor, I don’t feel like running cables through the drag chain right now) that I need to connect but the little thermometer module on my gantry was reading like 58 ish at 100 c bed temp, dropped to 56 ish overnight, was getting 40s before moving them to the front and actually setting up the automation macro for them.
For impromptu insulation, Cardboard works well too, I stick my filament dryer in a box during the winter so it can actually hit the target temps, otherwise it runs forever.
- Comment on Auto bed leveling on Ender 3 Max Neo 5 weeks ago:
To be fair, I only find it needed on stuff above pla, and even then it’s often good enough to preheat first, changed my start gcodes around to preheat before mesh levelling.
Not sure if creality has a macro to calibrate the z axis, totally possible there’s a bit of skew across the x gantry, running the z axis just past its max usually sorts it on my franken-prusa, trying to adjust bed levelling with skew is a mess and made it look like the entire bed was going downhill.
- Comment on Auto bed leveling on Ender 3 Max Neo 5 weeks ago:
What kind of probe? Are you preheating before auto levelling? Have you manually calibrated an offset? I used a sheet of paper which was good enough to rough it in and then fine tuned from there. Have you followed marlin’s bed levelling steps?
G29 S0
should return mesh results, plonk the reaults of that into a visualisation tool of your choice if you don’t have the ability to visualise with your printer interface (klipper does and if I recall so does octoprint) to help see if you need further adjustment. Definitely do your mesh levelling at your expected print temperatures, give it a good heat soak of like at least 15 minutes before testing, preferably longer but good enough is usually fine.How did you manually level? I ended up doing a silicone tube mod on my prusa to get the build plate as level as possible, Image now within ~0.1mm deviation over the build plate at 90c which is definitely good enough for me. I also moved from a pinda probe to a tap probe, induction probes are definitely fine imo, you just need to tune the offset
- Comment on Students’ Leaf Blower Suppressor To Hit Retail 5 weeks ago:
Reading the article, reducing the shriller frequencies by 12db is still pretty nice, looks like it’s designed for electric blowers which are already way quieter than gasoline powered ones, already generally in the hearing safe range. 2db overall should still be noticeable though, be generally less annoying.
- Comment on Students’ Leaf Blower Suppressor To Hit Retail 1 month ago:
12 dB is a pretty decent reduction if your goal is hearing protection, 100->88 is also bringing it to something that absolutely needs hearing protection to something that’s borderline acceptable for an 8 hour shift depending on your local laws, mine say 4 hours but still, way more comfortable to use.
- Comment on Cruciferae 1 month ago:
I did some braised ones the other week on a whim (some stock, garlic, chili crisp and balsamic, browned them first in a bit of Bacon fat) and damn if it didn’t make me reconsider cooked sprouts, I thought I disliked them cooked based on memories being served them as a kid, but I guess I just never had them prepared. Helps that apparently they’ve been selectively bred to reduce bitterness since the 90s.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Wow yeah, that’s even more annoying then. Last ditch thing to me would be to check the resistance across th0 and compare to thb, I got ~6.28 kohms on both checking a spare board, just super strange this happened so suddenly.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Super bizarre…
Any chance there’s some mechanical damage to the thermistor? If you’ve rebuilt the hotend a bunch of times it’s really easy to do, I’ve totally reefed down on a setscrew before and flattened one, could lead to it possibly reporting a wrong value, a crack + high vibrations during printing + thermal cycling could lead to it getting worse over time. Sudden shifts to me would suggest a problem with the thermistor itself, especially given the total overhaul you’ve done. As crappy as it is too, if I recall electrical components often follow an early failure pattern where they can have a higher failure rate at beginning of life and then drops off, for the price of thermistor cartridges it’s not a bad idea to keep some on hand just in case.
To make your life easier, Do you have a molex connector at the hotend? A lot of thermistor cartridges come with short leads and a molex connector, makes swapping them so much easier. If you don’t already have some crimpers, Engineer PA-09 is a solid pair that’ll do everything from molex to jst.
- Comment on What's your go-to "Bang for your Buck" filament brand? 1 month ago:
I bounced around a couple, my goal was to find stuff cheaper than prusament that also produced nice results. i really liked the stuff spool3d in Canada sells but ended up coming across matter3d as spool3d carries some of their products. They’re way cheaper than anything I can get on amazon and I found the quality up there.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
That’s super irritating, sorry you’re still dealing with it.
I’m thinking long shot items now;
I realise I’ve been focusing on the heat itself, but could your extruder be skipping? There’s no grinding or dust in the gears? In really bad cases they can chew into the filament itself, I’ve had it happen moreso after clearing a clog but it still can happen, cleaning it with air and lightly oiling the gear mesh is a decent start.
Don’t think it’s related but might be worth dropping your klipper configs, specifically around hotend stuff.
Have you tried totally new nozzles? Could have a very slight partial clog remaining that keeps showing up.
Do your part cooling fans blow directly on the block? 4th layer is about when that would kick in for my config with PLA, I have socks on mine and I run stealthburner hotends on both my voron and prusa so they blow below the block, but even then you can notice and definite change in cooling rate of a hot block.
I know I brought up intermittent breaks before, klipper by default looks to do 1s input smoothing on the thermistor to reduce sensor noise which could maybe hide it, but that’s unlikely, I’ve seen it on my printers
Image this was on the prusa when it was running marlin still, very obvious at this point but it was having clogging and printing issues before it started to trip thermal runaway.What sort of print speeds are you doing and do you happen to know the material your block is made of? 200 is cold to me for PLA, while I know its smack in the middle of a lot of manufacturers, personally run closer to 215, prusament’s profiles are 210 if I recall. Not something that’s going to suddenly cause you an issue though, only thought I could have is same temps with higher speeds/feedrates
Might be worth doing a cold pull to thoroughly clean the nozzle which prusa suggests pla works best for, or run cleaning filament through if you have it. i swear it’s just hot glue in filament form but man if it doesnt actually clean things up nicely when I use it for material changes.
Other thoughts, is your PID tune not aggressive enough? I’ve found that klipper will do its best to hit a target temp with minimal overshoot where marlin would run to a temperature, overshoot and then try to maintain it, if you’ve change anything in your setup at all I’d suggest retuning it with fans running at your regular fan speed, I do 250 at 50% as that’s around what I’ll use for abs and petg. Filament super dry? While wet filament can cause a bunch of other issues with print quality, I could totally see it contributing to clogging as well.
- Comment on Cyberpunk 2077 director thanks fans as the game hits a 95% positive review rating on Steam 1 month ago:
Tomb Mold does a few of the tracks on Ritual FM, I really liked that they got realworld artists to do in universe tracks. All of the stations are solid, love that they implemented radio outside of vehicles as well.
- Comment on Stack Overflow Users Are Revolting Against an OpenAI Deal | WIRED 1 month ago:
Anecdotally, pretty much every time I’m searching for information on reddit a number of comments are redacted or even the op is deleted. The only reason I didn’t purge my comments is in case someone might find them helpful.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 month ago:
I had clogging and stringing issues, which not unexpected when jumping between materials. I had tried it to reduce smell, but ended up not finding much of a difference for me. Prusament ASA was decent but really expensive (duties alone). I probably didn’t give it (polymaker) a fair chance, had really good results with the polymaker pla and polyterra pla for some decorative prints. I’ve definitely had my share of hit and miss with amazon filament, they certainly are way better than I recall them being a decade ago, I do try to dry them now before using and stick with a few brands. I may also be misattributing issues to the polymaker asa, I also bought esun abs+ at the same time, I was building a nevermore max, one of the two just gave me grief and I was mildly annoyed with failed prints.
In terms of what I use now, I have had a lot of luck with Spool3D abs and petg, I sourced a lot of parts from them and found their filament pretty solid (though I’m not sure who supplies it). Recently I’ve been using Matter3D abs and pla, they have a wood fill pla I liked and their abs printed nicely for me. I’m Canadian so import duties and shipping can be killer, so trying to find a domestic supply was my goal. I definitely still use polymaker, have used a bunch of standard abs and their colour selection is amazing. I don’t tend to go for asa over abs, if only for price, looking at amazon, for polymaker 2x1 kg black is $55 cad for abs and $77 cad for ASA, I can almost get an entire third spool for the difference in price.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 month ago:
Total anecdote, I had nothing but problems with Polymaker ASA, which I believe was me trying to run it through too fast. i have a dragon UHF which is, in theory, supposed to be able to do speeds over 30 mm^3/s, first thing I’d try is just slower print speeds and then bump it up from there.
You could also look at a cht nozzle, but as a word of warning, I found the bimetallic ones super fragile, if I recall they want a way lower torque spec than a solid brass or steel nozzle, so they’re easy to shear off if you’re not careful.
- Comment on That time when Microsoft bought and killed Nokia phone unit 1 month ago:
My 1020 was my favourite, had it in lemon yellow. Was the first phone I had with a camera bump, took really nice photos for a phone at the time and even shot in raw. I would love another phone with a polycarbonate body.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] It's the clog guy again - temp readings are bad! 1 month ago:
Totally get not wanting to swap the board if it’s that recent and been in serviced for that long. Super strange it’s seemed to have drifted that much, could think of some last ditch things like changing the position of the thermistor, ensuring it’s centred in the hole, set screw tightened enough but not enough to deform the sleeve but I know you’ve rebuilt and changed all the components a bunch of times, honestly could even just be your batch of thermistors, but it sounds like you have a way forward now.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] It's the clog guy again - temp readings are bad! 1 month ago:
One word of caution re IR thermometers, the emissivity of the surface you’re aiming at is going to massively impact its reading. From earlier photos it looked like you have a nickel plated block, most IR thermometers are preset to expect a 0.95 emmisivity (1 being a perfect black body), bare metals tend to be closer to 0 with polished nickel being 0.05, oxidised being in the middle 0.5 ish. Why I mention this is unless you are adjusting the thermometer for the expected emissivity it will totally underreport the surface temperature.
Other thing to consider is that surface temp and midblock temps can differ, forced convection from fans will totally contribute to that. Definitely like your idea of an accurate prove thermometer, I’d be super wary of changing your pullup resistance base on the ir reading, could definitely have it way too warm. Short term, you could try running with a higher temp setting. Have you probed the pullup resistor on the board?
Some thought that I wish I had considered earlier, sudden failure with no warning would definitely point me at electrical stuff. Might be worth considering swapping to something like an skr mini which is super accessible and is drop in replacement more or less for something like a Rambo board.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Cannot fix a clogging issue. 2 months ago:
What kind of filament are you using? Acetone will not do much for petg and torching it can bake it into a hard mess. Have you tried doing a cold pull?
Found that pla and petg can cause clogs if they get too hot. Is your hotend a fixed block or one of the ones where you need to secure the block while tightening the nozzle? How tight is your extruder? Like the screw that holds it closed, you can strip the heck out of filament which ends up looking like a clog. Have had some filament mushroom in the heatbreak before and that can cause issues.
- Comment on Well there's your problem 3 months ago:
Red loctite on fastners that small has a recipe for being a bad time if it sets up proprly, I find some of the small screws around the hotend can already be prone to stripping due to things like plastic buildup thats hard to remove.
At least on the dragon, theres a sizeable gap between the inner and outer portions of the heatbreak and some distance between the block and the heatbreak, I’d be surprised if the threads get hot enough to worry about even without the hotend fan.
- Comment on Upgrade extruder on old Prusa clone 3 months ago:
Can you slap a prusa extruder on it?
I swapped over to phaetus dragon hotends on both my printers for interoperability and the fact that it doesn’t rotate on me, making nozzle swaps less of a pain. Was running this mount on my mk3s, works really well, no complaints from me. Also used this fan duct with solid results.
- Comment on Those that design: Who do you follow and what sources do you like for mechanical design inspiration? 3 months ago:
Personally I lean on real-world designs, honestly I haven’t taken advantage of some of the things that additive manufacturing enables over traditional machining so pretty much anything I’ve done could be done on a mill + lathe as well. Do lean on reference material though, dusted off my machinery’s handbook for some gearing references recently and I don’t doubt that I’ll get use from some of my other textbooks from uni, dated as they are.
I went through prusa’s documentation on designing for 3d printing when I was getting setup again as it had been some time, that covered things like overhangs, horizontally oriented holes etc. With all that said, I’ve always been an iterative design person, sometimes that’s also iterating on existing work, really appreciate the open source mindset in the community for that.
- Comment on My creality 4.2.7 board just crapped out. Suggestions for an upgrade? 3 months ago:
Oh yeah what others said, the 2209 drivers are substantially quieter than those on the rambo. Most of the noise is from fans now.
- Comment on My creality 4.2.7 board just crapped out. Suggestions for an upgrade? 3 months ago:
I did a board swap on my mk3s with one of those, other than doing a few connector changes perfect replacement and they’re really reasonably priced. Steppers run way quiter as well which is another benefit
- Comment on Tidal’s subscription is getting simpler and cheaper — yes, you read that right 3 months ago:
I got the email in Canada, so yes? It’s not uncommon for us to not get things when they do across the border.
- Comment on Rakuten launches cloud storage with unlimited file transfers, targets businesses and individuals, with free 10GB storage 4 months ago:
They have a whole bunch of purchases, the one I’m familiar with is Kobo years ago
- Comment on Passkeys might really kill passwords 4 months ago:
There’s a Firefox plugin that provides that functionality. As for getting my parents on board, any attempt to get my mil onboard with a password manager has been futile, actually using it seems to be the biggest barrier to adoption in my anecdotal experience
- Comment on Passkeys might really kill passwords 4 months ago:
Did not know about the Mac version, my partner is using Strongbox on her mac, I don’t personally use Mac os. I’ve been using keepass2android for a long time, I like that there’s so many different clients for keepass