Blue_Morpho

.net isn’t Windows.

Don’t even get me started on .NET or the various and sundry “redistributables” constantly required by every tool you try to use.

It’s absurd but Linux is far worse. Instead of addressing library bloat and versioning we have Docker which just throws EVERYTHING into a bag and makes you download an entire OS environment space to run one app.

Unless you are on a private tracker, the trackers go up and down and require changes every few years too.

Thanks but as I said, it’s about the collecting, not the watching. I captured/filtered/converted shows like Buzz Lightyear of Star Command for my nephew 25 years ago. I’m not going to delete it despite that no one is watching it or will watch it for decades (maybe when nephew has kids or if I have grandkids). It’s not even available on any streaming.

I think if I ran maintainerr, it would tell me to delete everything except the home videos that my mother in law likes to watch.

I’ve hosted my own media since before Plex existed. But I understand that almost all of my video is “collection”, not actually useful.

My server was useful for about 5 years when my kids were young and it provided all their shows without ads.

I’m starting to delete stuff.

What is AOT? Attack on Titan?

Pihole and dns can only block ads that come from a separate ad network. It’s unlikely that Bambu is using an ad network for the ads inside their slicer. That’s also why Pihole does nothing for youtube ads.

Join at 18 and retire at 43.

That’s weird. I have never had a doorbell fail. My current doorbell is a 1990’s system that goes to mini crt displays in the house. Kind of like this Image

It’s over 25 years old.

I also have several noname IP cameras around the outside and they’ve never failed. One is almost 10 years old now.

A +/-.1mm IS doable if you’re careful

That the software is introducing more than .1mm before it gets the printer in certain situations is the problem. In the video he starts with his calibration cube that has been tuned to perfect (as far as his calipers can measure). But then he printed a complex part (skull because he’s in bio medicince) and its WAY off because the slicer itself messed up the hotend positioning commands.

Not op but in my case I’ve seen huge differences between USB cards and high quality cards. 20 years ago I used to use bt878 capture cards. A few years ago I bought a Viewcast Osprey on eBay.

In particular I use a svhs tape player with built in time base corrector. The reason for svhs is because the hardware supports actual svhs output. Vhs tapes are store with luminous and chroma as separate signals. With regular composite output, that data is mixed into one signal. This causes interference patterns like dot crawl and color fringing.

The other big advantage over USB dongles is all the ones I’ve seen don’t let you capture the raw data- it’s pre compressed with lossy like mjpeg or mpeg which is another huge quality drop because you’ll usually want to post process the video with avisynth before compressing it to mpeg4.

My target is for the captured video to look just as good as it originally did on a VHS player on a crt. So the interlaced to progressive conversion is always tricky. I don’t personally do it but one trick to keep resolution is to capture at 60fps and play each 30i field doubled. That way no detail is lost in the source and it uses your eyes to motion blur the fields together.

Fusion lets you print from the UI. I have never used it. I always export an stl or step and load that into the slicer.

Image

The bot must be upvoting itself because yet again it listed a bunch of random abbreviations that aren’t in the thread at all.

Someone claimed it’s not ai slop but a bot with GitHub code but that code doesn’t produce this result.

I have no idea what you are using to browse Lemmy because the only notification I get is a number next to my profile icon in web browser or Thunder. And that’s often delayed by several days so I frequently look through my own old posts to find replies because don’t get reliable notifications.

there is no fully open-source 3D printer any more.

I’m pretty sure Voron is fully open source.

but all proprietary and as locked down as possible hatdware-wise.

There’s no DRM in the hardware. It isn’t locked down at all. There are 3rd party hotends already. Not even Prusa has open source hardware now.

I am fairly confident they will follow a similar path even though they have made some software source - available.

They have released all firmware source code. So it doesn’t matter what they do in the future. You have control over your hardware for forever.

What custom firmware are you running on your U1?

While you wait for shipment, start printing an ikea lid mount for the u1. It’s not necessary but it’s great to keep dust out. I did the beaverworks because it was first but I don’t recommend it because there are better ones now. Beaverworks version has unnecessary extra material and needs toyou to unplug the hot extruders to install.

Super glue is fine. You don’t need to waste money on expensive glues.

It’s so good that recovering magnets from prints I’ve made takes a lot of work because the super glue holds them to pla really well.

It could be the lighting but when I do a layer 1 test print it looks like a sheet of paper without the large ridges like on your print. Does your sheet hold together like a sheet of paper or is it stringy?

In all occurances, it seems like the first few layers do not correctly join together, and the print becomes a thick web of filament string

A pic would help but that sounds like bed leveling. That happens to me on my S1 bed that has low spots where the bed screws are under the plate. So while the bed is “level” there are some shallow pools that the automatic bed leveling isn’t compensating for and I get that effect if I print in that spot.

I’d suggest printing a layer 1 test print. makerworld.com/…/953670-1-layer-first-layer-test-…

You want the test print to look like a perfect sheet of paper.

Threads should be 45 degrees to 3d print perfect but cad programs default to 60 because that’s standard for machining and injection molded screws. Use non uniform scaling to quickly change your threads from 60 to 45. (Adjust z height of just the screws by a factor of 3 ^ .5 = ~ 1.732 )

youtu.be/7NwkYHyJ7QY

The prime tower probably could be much smaller. Its size is mainly structural so that on a tall print it stays stable. But the poop tray on the U1 is pretty small. I could see it needing to be emptied after every large multi color print if it primed into the poop tray.

Hell, even the Snapmaker U1 uses a prime tower,

I have a U1 which is what prompted this post. But Snapmaker doesn’t “use” a Prime tower. They took Orca and kept all the defaults. I was thinking that they might have intentionally kept the prime tower default because they don’t have a real poop chute but only a poop bin which would quickly overflow if they primed into it.

Test it on an object with many color changes

Without knowing why, I would be wasting time. I could be changing colors when the problem is an acceleration condition created by a part shape causing underextrusion.

the only way to find the right answer for you is to test things and figure it out yourself.

The entire point of this forum is to gain knowledge that you don’t already. Instead of answering any questions, you could just respond “Test it yourself.”

Which is why I find it odd that you seem to be looking for an answer that works for one person

I’m not asking what works but WHY a feature exists. Understanding why allows you to design parts correctly from the start instead of screwing around and then randomly getting a good result that you don’t understand and therefore can’t replicate under all conditions.

The prime tower has nothing to do with “looking right”. It builds as the print goes and often looks bad while the print is fine because that is it’s purpose: to build pressure getting the filament moving in the nozzle before the head moves into place.

In the case of mixing filaments like PETG and PLA for support it looks really horrible because it’s laying down lines of plastic that dont stick to each other. But the part looks fantastic because the slicer creates actual support interface layers for supports.

Poop where?

That’s why I’m thinking it’s a legacy setting in slicers. All printers made in the past 5 years have a purge chute and wiper. So purge goes out the back and the nozzle is wiped before it starts.

Well except the new FlashForge multi head printer that purges off the edge of the build plate.

Testing on a print means nothing. Just because one print works doesn’t mean it will work on every print. If I understood exactly why there is a prime tower instead of purging for prime I’d know under what conditions it could be disabled.

Maybe it’s a historical artifact from printers from 10 years ago. Maybe “build nozzle pressure” doesn’t work as well if you aren’t priming onto a surface that would create back pressure.

I’d rather understand why than have a print randomly fail in the future. That is just because one model can print without a prime tower doesn’t mean all will work under all conditions.

I’d love to get a real answer.