Shit posting but 3d this time

Comments

• Carighan@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Thanks, I was considering what to make for dinner, and spaghetti it shall be!

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• whodatdair@lemmy.blahaj.zone ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Upgrade to PEI my friend. Best $25 i spent on this thing.

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• Starb3an@sh.itjust.works ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Completely off topic: I now dry all of my filament for about 10 hours in a cheap food dehydrator before I print. Print quality is 1000x better.

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• rugburn@lemmynsfw.com ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  I don’t know what it is with ender build plates but they only seem to last about 30-ish prints on the PEI side for me, switched to the glass side and glue stick with moderately better results

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  • GregorTacTac@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    Thanks, I’ll try this setup with a brim or a skirt.

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• Dumnorix@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  If printing PLA, put a brine (salt solution) on your bed. PLA bonds with salt when warmed up (heated bed) and loses its bond when cooled off.

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  • beastlykings@sh.itjust.works ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    Is this legit? Or are you making a spaghetti joke? I actually can’t tell lol

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    • Dumnorix@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      Here’s a scientific paper about it. :) …uantwerpen.be/…/bonding_pla_with_salt_water_v201…

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• EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Scraped a 600g print for the second time (today):

  first failure: bed adhesion/warping

  second failure: Prusaslicer overlapped support and the part. At least my hotend survived that failure.

  Called it a day and moved on to a different printer for this print. Also, did I mention that I managed to kill another z-endstop on that printer today? Forgot to remove a finished print before running G28.

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  • atocci@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    How does that kill the endstop?

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    • EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      The end stop is located on the carriage (toolmount/receiver). Moved sideways into the print and the bed adhesion was stronger than the pin of the switch.

      Image

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• beirut_bootleg@programming.dev ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Uh Oh Spaghettio!

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• AnarchoSnowPlow@midwest.social ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  What did you do to that poor build plate?!?

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  • GregorTacTac@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    A lot of printing. It’s basically impossible to clean it well.

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    • AmbiguousProps@lemmy.today ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      Are you removing your prints when the build plate is still hot? If so, and your plate is PEI, it’ll get destroyed

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    • AnarchoSnowPlow@midwest.social ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      With that one (creality textured glass carborundum something or other) I kept hitting it with 95%+ IPA, it just gives out eventually. I switched to a textured spring steel plate recently, world of difference for petg, PLA, and tpu. It’s just another consumable :/

      If you’re not ready to switch yet a layer of masking tape can get you by for awhile, it’s just a pain because the masking tape will need to be replaced about every other print depending on your settings.

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• pineapplelover@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  How do you even level an Ender? I have an elegoo neptune printer so the leveling is different. I was trying to print with an Ender and couldn’t find a good guide. All of them told me to twist the screw things at the bottom but the gap is way too large for it to be fixed that way.

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• atocci@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Yeah I think you need a new build surface, friend.

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  • GregorTacTac@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    How expensive are they?

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    • EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      As cheap as $2 from Ikea for a mirror or roughly $15 for a PEI sheet. Print surfaces are consumables like nozzles or filament.

      This print bed has seen better days but doesn’t need to be replaced right now.

      Btw. Using PETG on glass or Creality glass surfaces is a great way to destroy them in a timely manner.

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    • atocci@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      Not too bad, here it is on their website

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• becausechemistry@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  I’m late to the party but I use a WhamBam build surface on my Ender 3 V2. Absolutely a game changer. Wipe it down with high-percent isopropanol or acetone between prints and it works every time. Sticks like glue when hot and just pops off with zero effort once it cools down.

  Not affiliated, just love the thing. whambamsystems.com/…/235-x-235-kit-with-pre-insta…

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• RunningInRVA@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Glue stuck my friend. All the way home.

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  • NosferatuZodd@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    Stick*

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• GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  What are your first layer settings? Temp? Speed? Line width? Etc etc.

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• rambos@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Sad storry dude. Do I see a skirt of that model and some brim leftovers on the build plate? Is that PLA? Are you using glue?

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  • GregorTacTac@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    No, I didn’t use a skirt or brim. Good idea, I’ll use it next time. I’m using PETG as my filament and no, I’m not using glue.

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• HubertManne@kbin.social ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  In your ender!

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• topinambour_rex@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  Ender 3 ?

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  • GregorTacTac@lemm.ee ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    Ender 3 Neo

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  • KremlinJanitor@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    I’d say a Neo based on how the fan shroud looks

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