EmilieEvans
@EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 2 days ago:
for me it is the other way around:
private: Play & mess around. Gathering knowledge/expertise. Modifying/experimenting on a production machine is just not possible.
company/business: Use the knowledge to source (or modify it into) a reliable solution. After all, you are paid to produce good outcomes/results.
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 2 days ago:
Prusa XL is a difficult machine.
On the one hand, it pushes toolchangers to the mainstream. On the other hand, it is utterly unreliable for it’s price.
Paying $5k for a printer and then finding out that the printed parts they used deform causing repairs, the heatbed title issues and some more and this is already after a massive delay (launched a few years later than they initially “announced”).
The previous goat of toolchangers was the E3D toolchanger. While not perfect it at least had the build quality to match its price point (btw. lower cost than the Prusa XL) and if you fix one minor design oversight they are reliable.
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 4 days ago:
There is no clear answer to what is better.
CoreXY:
- lower moving mass (benefit)
- stationary bed (benefit)
- compact dimensions, easy to build an enclosure (benefit)
- VERY long belts (downside) => you can upgrade to high pitch ball screw and servos (no longer coreXY) => even superior are linear induction motors like those used in pick and place machines but both options would cost significantly more (will never be seen on consumer printer).
bedslinger
- short belts are good for dimensional accuracy
- independent axis makes it easy to get a high rigidity with good dampening characteristics further benefiting the print quality
- bed is moving this is a significant limitation for fragile/tall prints. You can pretty easily simulate the distortion this will cause. To keep it fair: Even with coreXY there will be some forces/drag from the molten material/nozzle to the printed parts.
TL;DR/Opinion?
- CoreXY it is for the consumer market. Those machines look nicer, are smaller and print quality matches expectations.
- For the (ultra) high end it gets blurry. There are outstanding bed slinger options out there made of granite frames, precision linear rails, and so on. These machines aren’t designed for high speed but for ultimate reliability and quality with price tages in the $10k+ range for a 200x200mm machine.
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 5 days ago:
This is the base folder of the unzipped update.
differencing: WCH CH341 driver eve: AI chatbot scripts: boring scripts and a binary blob (.elf file: fdm_virtual_device)
Regarding the M9999:
else if(strcmp((const char *)rec_cmd[ptr].cmd,"M9999") == 0 ) { ansifo->main_cmd = SET_AUTO_TEMP_CMD; return SET_AUTO_TEMP_CMD; }
github.com/Raise3D/…/virtual_sdcard.py#L535
For M99123 there is only one reference: github.com/Raise3D/…/virtual_sdcard.py#L535
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 6 days ago:
I might have the klipper source unzipped from the update file (7 zip noticed that there is more data). Where do I need to check/look for this M99123 implementation?
The update file itself starts with: “RAISE - MXC - PACKAGE…” MXC might stand for STM MXcube as Rais uses an STM32 MCU. Scrolling through the file it looks like it also contains some sort of files for YOCTO-Linux for an NXP chip which might be related to the display.
Also does Klipper still use Python 2.7 and other EOL packages that are 15 years old by now?
Looking at the key-file: It is a gzip which contains a USTAR which contains some sort of, I suppose, key: “RAISE - MXC - KEY _ 'C[…]”
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 6 days ago:
Implementing a G-code that allows abitary code execution sounds like a pretty dumb idea especially since these are “industrial” printers.
But I have to say it kind of looks like some sort of binary blob. What is interesting is that the section “DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/” is repeating.
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 6 days ago:
Preview images are in a separate .data file.
is this a cloud-first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode
The printer isn’t connected to the internet and the hyperFFF works. The HyperFFF upgrade requires a firmware update and a key file that is specific to the machine/serial number. GCode isn’t machine-specific.
The underlying software/“firmware” is Klipper.
- Submitted 6 days ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 8 comments
- Comment on Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal? 1 week ago:
github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/…/3333
Introduced in 5.10 and fixed more than a year later in 6.11 (they claim I can’t check as I no longer use Prusa).
- Comment on Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal? 2 weeks ago:
The print quality is fine if the printer doesn’t freeze. Nothing exciting but also not bad for a $100 used device. Still, nothing to ride home about if $200 buys you a new BambuLab A1 mini. In sharp contrast is the Bambulab a reliable and superior printer in every aspect.
With this sad. If you still consider the Prusa Mini:
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DO NOT update the firmware to versions with input shaping! They introduced a bug that you need to remove the SD-card before turning it on or otherwise the printer believes the firmware is damaged/bricked. This bug has been known for quite a long time without any fix from Prusa (present in multiple “stable”/release firmware versions!!!). I got rid of the last Prusa few years ago because of this issue so it might be fixed, might be still broken.
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Do not rely on network connectivity/features. They are unstable meaning the printer needs to be restarted multiple times per day (combine this with the SD-card issue) or just freezes mid-print.
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- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
DRM on the resin combined with their high resin pricing is an issue. Heygears ABS-like is close to $90/kg while other ABS like are $25/kg.
Sadly this printer will never be a cost-effective solution with those jacked-up resin prices.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
Recomendation?
The buildplate should fit to make it easy to use.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
Software subscription and DRM on resin/filament are huge red flags. Had a look at heygears offerings as people describe it as the BambuLab equivalent for SLA. Looking into it, the feels more like a FormLabs company with overpriced resins and DRM to make you buy their resin.
Spending once 1.5-2k€ for the Flex RS printer is fine (more than I would like) but paying 40-70€/kg for resin killed it. Just not possible to economically justify paying twice as much for the source materials (resin). This would mean HeyGear jacking up the production cost by approx. 50-80%, indefinitely. A better option is it spend a day dialing in a third-party resin on the Prusa or Elegoo.
subscription = selling the same software indefinitely
paid upgrades = forced to deliver value/improvements with each paid update
for materials it is similar:
DRM = jacking up prices
open = competing on quality: You could use our first-party product with perfect integration but you are free to source whatever you like
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
Well, any printer will do that if you calibrate it well enough.
Pain point in the past where the build platform. Prints frequently failed because they would lift from the aluminum plate.
After a lot of trouble, I switched to a flexible buildplate which first was blasted with course “sand” followed by fine glass beans. flexplate so I can remove the print. The course surface makes the print stick but not stick too well. Would like this time to avoid all of this troubleshooting.
Also considered buying one of those printers that work upside down by projecting the light onto the surface and the print is lowered into the resin vat.
“Good” is fairly ambiguous here because what would a “good” slicer look like to you?
Good workflow (UI design), decent automatic support generation, good tool for manually brushing/configuring support material and ideally an elephant foot compensation setting/calibration for the first layer which has a significantly longer exposure time.
Support generation and being able to manually edit those pushed me toward PrusaSlicer.
The VAT tilt is a bit dangerous because of a potential resin leak of the release film, leaking into your printer’s internals
How big of an issue is that? Are the upgrades to seal the printer?
Back in the day, it was more or less a total economic loss for those cheap printers: LCD damaged, UV-array damaged and a complete mess within that was hard to clean.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
I care about proprietary in the sense that I am locked to a certain slicer. Don’t care if the mechanical design and firmware is proprietary.
Also I don’t care that much about replacement parts. Affordable FEP-film (or those never versions of release film) is important. Other replacement parts are nice to have but never had to repair anything (the highest risk I see is flooding it with resin or dropping something in the vat that will crush the screen and if you are careful this is highly unlikely to ever happen especially now with the pressure detection on some printer models).
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 weeks ago:
Great to hear you like it and that UV-tools work with it. What I hated about anycubic photon workshop was that the support generation was 100% manual (automatically created unusable results). PrusaSlicer was so much easier to work with.
The nice aspect of network connectivity is comfortably moving files to it and receiving a notification once the print is done.
I keep misplacing USB-sticks or it is a pain to first walk to the printer, picking up the stick, returing to the PC, and walking once more to the printer.
- Submitted 3 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 19 comments
- Comment on Bambulab A1 vs Sovol sv06 ace+ 3 weeks ago:
Bambu Lab A1 or even better the A1 mini.
You can get a plate swapper for the A1 mini. Combine this with an AMS for automatic filament changes (switching spools if one runs out) and you get a lights-out manufacturing solution: swap-systems.com/product/swapmod/
- Comment on I have a question in regards to 3d modeling for a filament slicer addon to my hotend 3 weeks ago:
Do you mean with filament slicer a filament cutter?
- Comment on The Enshittification of 3D Printers – Are We Losing What Made Them Great? 5 weeks ago:
Does Creality uses V6-compatible nozzles?
If one of the stepper drivers blows up (it happens and since it blows/damages the PCB it can’t be repaired) can I swap in a generic motherboard without replacing other components like the screen?
- Comment on The Enshittification of 3D Printers – Are We Losing What Made Them Great? 5 weeks ago:
So your suggestion would have been the Creality K2 or K1C?
- Comment on The Enshittification of 3D Printers – Are We Losing What Made Them Great? 5 weeks ago:
Tell me.
Looked last week into it and concluded that BamubLab is still the best option.
Runner up was Creality but they are equally proprietary these days.
- Comment on The Enshittification of 3D Printers – Are We Losing What Made Them Great? 5 weeks ago:
Name one that is competitive to the BambuLab P1S combo.
Keep in mind that the operator is an average Joe, who knows nothing about 3D-printers, with minimal training on the job to do the maintenance.
Competitive (explicitly) includes cost: If I need to pay $2k for a printer that works just as well as an $800 option it is not feasible (for a business) to spend this much more.
- Comment on The Enshittification of 3D Printers – Are We Losing What Made Them Great? 5 weeks ago:
I love DIY.
At home, I run and build DIY printers but you can’t deploy them in a business/production. Why? As soon as there is a printer that isn’t it just works with easy (and documented) maintance procedures the business needs to hire not only a worker but a worker who knows 3D printers. That’s bad.
Printers like the Sovol SV08 and Biqu AMS (still not launched) aren’t just there yet.
Combined with the BambuLab pricing on the A1 mini and P1S it is pretty difficult to buy FOSS.
Prusa is close with the Core 1 but they don’t have an good AMS package for their printers (their MMU lacks a enclosure/easy to deploy setup). They propably know it but don’t have the answer avaible.
Equally on the econmics side it is difficult: The BambuLab P1S killed the (FOSS) market.
If I compare a 1150€ BambuLab X1C against the 1350€ Prusa Core One I would likley prefer the Prusa product/ecosystem. With the P1S it suddently is a 700€ compared to 1350€ for a machine that will produce the exact same parts with a near identical cycletime, uptime and opperating/maintance cost. The decission in favor of BambuLab is easy.
- Comment on Popular 3D printer vendor has come up with a foldable portable concept that's mindblowing 5 weeks ago:
What a bummer.
Had high hopes of them cooking it in secret and releasing it with the potential for 4th axis stuff with the robot arm in the future (software update) or at least the community could use it as an easy-to-purchase devkit to develop their own opensource software solution.
With this being just a concept and them BUYING their award (sic., paid to apply with a high success of “winning”) combined with their failed multi-color printhead for the Ankermake turns this into a nothing burger.
- Comment on Any Thoughts, Ideas or Theories of the Bambu H2D that they have been teasing? 5 weeks ago:
Pricing will be interesting. My bet is on $5k. Trying to position it against machines like the BCN3D sigmax or Ultimaker Factor S4.
- IDEX
- nozzle is raised and lowered
- single extruder motor that is switched between both filament paths
- A1 mini style hotend/nozzle
- Comment on Bambu lab A1 mini alternative? 2 months ago:
Quality and construction? Cetus mk3
ease of use? definitly not a Cetus mk3
- Comment on CNC Kitchen – What is the best way to dry your desiccant? (microwave) 6 months ago:
China. That’s where you can still get the Cobalt indicator.
The upside is the fantastic color change, which is why some still prefer it and why it is probably still being made.
In Europe there is an alternative blue indicator that is cobalt-free, but it is more of a blue to brown/very dark red colour change, so not great either especially after a few drying cycles.
- Comment on CNC Kitchen – What is the best way to dry your desiccant? (microwave) 6 months ago:
the granules are blue when dry and turn purple/red when they no longer absorbs humidity.
Don’t buy those. Orange gel is the “new” blue.
The reason why the blue gel was phased out decade(s) ago is the CoCl2. Along all of the hazards are H350i and H360F (cancer and reproduction [aka. your plan to have kids might not turn out that great]).
While orange gel doesn’t have as good of a color change it is significantly lower risk and shall be used.
- Comment on Is a dremel 3D40 worth it in 2024? 6 months ago:
3D40 at couple hundred bucks? Absolutely not. 3D40 for $50? No. 3D40 for free? Yeah. Just don’t expect much out of it.
