EmilieEvans
@EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml
- Comment on Anyone had success with RepRap projects? 1 day ago:
How about a 3D-printer that prints its own z-axis?
- Comment on Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing. 4 days ago:
The disclaimer says they’re trying to get it approved which implies they believe it could be
That’s a tough one and I doubt they will succeed with this. As far as I know, they would need to certify a material + process (3d-printer & settings, slicer-software & settings) + 3D-model combination. Far easier to certify a product containing 3D-printed parts than a 3D model/file.
- Comment on Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing. 1 week ago:
Plastic is the wrong material due to moisture building up inside and some other pitfalls.
- Comment on Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing. 1 week ago:
First of all: Legal is the bare minimum.
If you run a contest or sweepstakes and set out rules you are bound to them. Ignoring them like Prusa did exposes you up to liability claims.
- Comment on Let's talk about Prusa Printables contests. It might need some fixing. 1 week ago:
You’re mad that the contest was moderated? More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don’t even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it. Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it. That’s not how it works. There is no public vote.
- Submitted 1 week ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 25 comments
- Comment on Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet 1 month ago:
Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.
While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.
Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)
Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.
Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).
- Comment on Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet 1 month ago:
I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.
What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.
Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…
- Comment on Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet 1 month ago:
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to go safely to 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
- Comment on Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space? 1 month ago:
Styrol isn’t a particle that settles down like dust. It is a liquid with a significant enough vapor pressure to be problematic.
An activated carbon filter can get rid of the vapor.
- Comment on Resin Printing: Good for a Beginner with Limited Space? 1 month ago:
Form 2 is challenging to operate for a newbie:
- laser -> “special” resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
- Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.
- Comment on How do you build complex shapes? 1 month ago:
Key for these models are work planes: help.autodesk.com/view/INVNTOR/2024/ENU/?guid=GUI…
other handy features:
- loft
- sweep
- extrude at an angle
- Comment on SBC Case Builder v3.0 can create thousands of cases for popular SBCs and standard motherboards 1 month ago:
direct link to github: github.com/hominoids/SBC_Model_Framework
- Comment on Are filament vacuum bags worthwhile? 2 months ago:
Instead of those bags with a vale take a look a the kitchen department. They have vacuum seal machines used for sous vid cooking.
This is practically identical to the original packaging and can hold the vacuum for years to come. Leave the bag longer than required to allow it to be resealed multiple times (roughly 3cm are cut with each opening & resealing).
For the frequently used filaments place them in a drying box.
- Comment on Best options for entry level 3D printing available these days? 2 months ago:
There isn’t THE entry-level:
20x20cm Desktop FFF under $200
50x50cm desktop FFF $500
Toolchanger: roughly $1k
entry level plastic SLS: $10k
metal SLS: $50k
nano/micro structure 3d-printer: contact us
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6595547 Likely a old version with 0.4mm clearance that does work. If not message me and I could send you a later revision with 0.23mm that definitly works.
How does it work?
one direction: pretty obvious the spring bends out, the teeth pass through the other direction: the spring gets slightly pulled/stretched (the leading tip of the teeth pushes it) which causes the tip to be pushed against the block (left in the picture) and blocking the mechanism.
In other words, this mechanism works by having a physical path for the compression of the spring but in the opposite direction when would need to stretch to move pass the teeth it is stopped by a wall/block.
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
The teeth is indeed a critical aspect. It has to be symmetrical as this assembly is mirrored to block the rotation in the other direction.
An alternative to this would be printing the spring with the contact surface separately and inserting it into this print (pause at layer height, insert part, continue print) allowing other geometries (that would overlap with the teeth if printed in place) and pretension. The downside is it’s a manual task and one more separate part to keep track of.
This is small and the tolerances of the center hub cause the teeths/“gear” to move approx. 0.3-0.5mm of centre. This means what you see in the CAD/slicer isn’t how it will look once printed. I had to narrow the gap down as much as I could to get the largest contact area. If you make it a sled on one side there is less material/surface area.
A further consequence is that the tip of it doesn’t touch anything as such you could remove the very tip to adjust the sound signature. The feeling is slightly changed but primarily this replaced the high-pitched plastic sound with a deep tone.
The nice aspect is that in the blocking position, it is a solid connection meaning it can take as much load as the teeth (tip) can support (hence the trying to maximize the contact area there). The spring element is only there to return this blocking “bolt” into position after a teeth passes through.
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
Watch your attitude.
I think you still somehow assume this is some kind of ad to sell this design for money or I am a jerk for not just publishing it with source files.
Also not everybody spends their time designing and publishing whatever is popular at the moment on Makerworld to collect points/store credit. There is a different world that doesn’t run on Fusion360 source file most people could edit and can design parts with a particular material & print(farm)/process in mind to get the most out of the FFF 3D-printing process.
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6595547
v10 should still be 0.4mm tolerances (easy to print) on all sides and working. Otherwise not a great design but enough for you to understand that there are dozens of parameters to tune in such a “simple” mechanism and it is (nearly) impossible to nail it on the first try. Have we started talking about optimizing the force required to break it loose? That’s one more thing that needs to be accounted for.
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
If you consider sharing mechanical design concepts as not in line with the spirit it’s fine but others are likely interested in seeing how things work and takes it as inspiration for their designs.
Go and recreate it. Nobody stops you. Could provide the STL but wouldn’t be worth a lot as this is so dialed (tolerances) that it comes down to the specific printer/extrusion system. There are older revisions with huge tolerances (0.4mm) that work but wear down rapidly. To print this exact version it needs to be capable of printing with 0.23mm gap/tolerance between parts.
- Comment on Print in place ratchet design 2 months ago:
That’s exactly why it is a partial model/design to rapidly iterate on it: 1g, 10-minute print time. The full version with all the print-in-place parts takes 16 minutes.
Another aspect is collecting designs for a library. From now on I can copy past this subassembly into bigger designs and know it will just work. If I need to modify it I know how and where to change it to get the desired outcome.
- Submitted 2 months ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 14 comments
- Comment on Need some advice on scanning 2 months ago:
Regardless of the scanner use matting spray. Either a commercial that evaporates or baby powder + IPA or baking powder.
OpenScan was already meantioned by somebody else.
The CR scan otter won’t work for small parts and the CR-scan software isn’t great for example there isn’t an undo button to remove the last x seconds of bad scan data.
- Comment on Shit posting but 3d this time 2 months ago:
The end stop is located on the carriage (toolmount/receiver). Moved sideways into the print and the bed adhesion was stronger than the pin of the switch.
- Comment on Shit posting but 3d this time 2 months ago:
As cheap as $2 from Ikea for a mirror or roughly $15 for a PEI sheet. Print surfaces are consumables like nozzles or filament.
This print bed has seen better days but doesn’t need to be replaced right now.
Btw. Using PETG on glass or Creality glass surfaces is a great way to destroy them in a timely manner.
- Comment on Shit posting but 3d this time 2 months ago:
Scraped a 600g print for the second time (today):first failure: bed adhesion/warping
second failure: Prusaslicer overlapped support and the part. At least my hotend survived that failure.
Called it a day and moved on to a different printer for this print. Also, did I mention that I managed to kill another z-endstop on that printer today? Forgot to remove a finished print before running G28.
- Comment on Why do 3D printer manufacturers not get the details right? e.g. rotation indicator on bed levelling wheels 2 months ago:
Would you recommend buying the J1?
- Comment on Shape optimized spoolholder 2 months ago:
In a broader picture: See it as a demonstration of what all those nice tools in the CAD package can do. In this application with a little bit of thought could come up with a similar or better solution but for an I don’t care design approach the output is already good. A proper design approach would be putting thought in in where to place the contact surfaces relative to the spool and then run this software or go a step further and allow a different software to also change that parameter. Keep in mind those simulations are computationally expensive. Complex/advanced questions might take days to solve while a simple question like this is less than 1 minute.
The load was in the circle/groove facing down.
The other constrain was the faces contacting the 3030 extrusion being fixed and a keep-out zone was defined around those to ensure no material there was removed.
Otherwise, it was just a flat slab as shape.
What at first surprised me was how this part works: There is a point defined by the lowest/left triangle (tension & compression) on which all the weight rests. The remaining structure is is a cross beam (top mounting point to spool) to support it (tension) and the structure on which the spool rests (compression).
- Comment on Shape optimized spoolholder 2 months ago:
Inventor has a GUI for it. There are more options.
A slightly higher wall count for prints and the weight of the unoptimized solid is pointless in this instance as it starts with a larger slab and tell it to remove x% of weight. With the simulation result you either increase or decrease the x% removed setting and run it again till the load part strength is correct. Very basic in this regard but this was a quick design. How the spool is relative to the mounting points isn’t optimized. It was just me drawing something.
This particular part is 70g each with the filament being approx. 100mm moved forward (leaver length) and were simulated to withstand roughly 12kg and tested with 5.5kg+spool weights.
- Comment on Shape optimized spoolholder 2 months ago:
Nastran.
Is there any software that does take toolpaths into account?
Not as far as I know. The next best option is to define anisotropic properties in the z-direction but this doesn’t close the gap between simulation and slicer output.
How good is it? Good enough. Work with safety margins and temper the print if it is close. An important aspect to make Ansys, Nastram, … work with FDM is experience/rule of thumb. Knowing how to read the result and how to set up a simulation/model to get close enough results.
Most valuable is where and how it will fail as this is pretty accurate. For the exact load capacity it is the simulation result decreased by some rule of thumb based on experience.