EmilieEvans
@EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml
- Comment on best print farm 3d-printer for PETG? 1 day ago:
Is the SV08 firmware fixed?
Last checked in on it shortly after launch and the verdict was that the Klipper config is half-backed.
- Submitted 3 days ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 9 comments
- Comment on miniature figurines filament? 2 weeks ago:
Pretty interesting question as high quality and layer adhesion is required.
**TL;DR Polymaker Polyterra **
PETG: Good layer adhesion but stringing. If you can perfectly print it this would be my choice.
PP: Excelent layer ahdesion. Easier to print than PETG but painting might be difficult.
TPU: Somewhat combing the worst of PP and PETG for this application.
ABS/ASA: requires enclosed printer, ideally heated to at least 70°C.
PLA: Easy to print and work with. If the mechanical properties are good enough this is it.
Personally, I really like the Polymaker Polyterra. Gives pretty results, easy to sand and paint.
- Comment on If you can't buy it, make it: EN25 corner that fits HDMI cables. 4 weeks ago:
FWIW I just looked at the AliExpress-tier options and they are much cheaper
Those low cost Aliexpress hdmi over RJ45 are “last gen” HDMI limiting yourself to 4k@30Hz. This place already has CAT7 cabling so this would have been so much easier but sadly it isn’t good enough and the current gen are to expensive.
I didn’t even know HDMI cables went up to 15m for the copper version.
They are fiber optic with copper for power supply and side channel. For some reason they are fairly affordable compared to OM3 fiber solutions. Probably due to them running multiple fibers allowing the transceiver to be slower and simpler. With OM4 cables there is only one fiber per direction. I think HDMI is 4 pairs so it is 5GB/s for 4 fiber compared to 20GB/s for the OM4 cable.
I personally hate copper cables. There are so many bad cables out there that it can be hard to find one that works reliably (2-5m range). Knowing now that you can buy 5m fiber optic for 30€ I probably will move forward only buying fiber optic and just coil up the excess length.
- Comment on If you can't buy it, make it: EN25 corner that fits HDMI cables. 5 weeks ago:
HDMI over Ethernet box on either side.
$300 per connection: 2 display connections and two USB connections would cost $1200.
bhphotovideo.com/…/kanexpro_ext_50m18g_4k_18gbps_…
www.avaccess.com/…/u3ex100-usb3-2-extender/
Does this answer your question?
My solution isn’t cheap either: 10m USB-C 10gbit: 50€ each(b-stock/customer returns, normally expect to pay 100€), 15m DisplayPort & HDMI: 40€ each.
Total is approx. $200-2500 between cables and building materials.
And more often than not I find myself having to change one thing to wireless
Wireless HDMI is pretty interesting but low quality and high latency. The 60 GHz never took off and wouldn’t work anyway as it can’t pass through walls.
Wireless USB was a thing with USB 2.0 but it is dead. There was also some 60GHz USB for VR but that also failed in the market.
- Comment on If you can't buy it, make it: EN25 corner that fits HDMI cables. 5 weeks ago:
Water won’t get there and if the entire house is flooded and the walls are wet.
Fire protection is up to code.
If you would want to specify this (commercial installation) you likely would need to explicitly allow its use as this shape is not in the ISO/DIN standard.
- Comment on If you can't buy it, make it: EN25 corner that fits HDMI cables. 5 weeks ago:
Data rates and cost:
2x Display connections = 40 gbs
2x USB 3.0 = 10 gbs
=> 50 gbs through a CAT 7 is difficult
OM4 fibre optic is dirt cheap (under $1/m) but the KVMs are expensive at $800.
Using optical thunderbolt cables is also very expensive with $700 for the cable and dock.
- Comment on If you can't buy it, make it: EN25 corner that fits HDMI cables. 5 weeks ago:
UL94 V0 filament is available: PLA, PETG, ABS, PC and probably more.
V0 means stops burning within 10 seconds and no dripping. That’s good enough for these applications.
- Submitted 5 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 17 comments
- Comment on Is there a way to avoid those holes? 1 month ago:
Yes you can:
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enable Arachne in the slicer
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tune the pressure advance setting
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- Comment on Found This (and more in post) at the Cracker Barrel (US Restaurant and Gift Store Chain) 1 month ago:
That’s fair.
$10 retail
approx. $7 for the manufacturer
cost 2x “formular”: $3.5
With packaging, this might cost around $3 to make.
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 2 months ago:
for me it is the other way around:
private: Play & mess around. Gathering knowledge/expertise. Modifying/experimenting on a production machine is just not possible.
company/business: Use the knowledge to source (or modify it into) a reliable solution. After all, you are paid to produce good outcomes/results.
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 2 months ago:
Prusa XL is a difficult machine.
On the one hand, it pushes toolchangers to the mainstream. On the other hand, it is utterly unreliable for it’s price.
Paying $5k for a printer and then finding out that the printed parts they used deform causing repairs, the heatbed title issues and some more and this is already after a massive delay (launched a few years later than they initially “announced”).
The previous goat of toolchangers was the E3D toolchanger. While not perfect it at least had the build quality to match its price point (btw. lower cost than the Prusa XL) and if you fix one minor design oversight they are reliable.
- Comment on Bed slinger vs coreXY 3D printer 2 months ago:
There is no clear answer to what is better.
CoreXY:
- lower moving mass (benefit)
- stationary bed (benefit)
- compact dimensions, easy to build an enclosure (benefit)
- VERY long belts (downside) => you can upgrade to high pitch ball screw and servos (no longer coreXY) => even superior are linear induction motors like those used in pick and place machines but both options would cost significantly more (will never be seen on consumer printer).
bedslinger
- short belts are good for dimensional accuracy
- independent axis makes it easy to get a high rigidity with good dampening characteristics further benefiting the print quality
- bed is moving this is a significant limitation for fragile/tall prints. You can pretty easily simulate the distortion this will cause. To keep it fair: Even with coreXY there will be some forces/drag from the molten material/nozzle to the printed parts.
TL;DR/Opinion?
- CoreXY it is for the consumer market. Those machines look nicer, are smaller and print quality matches expectations.
- For the (ultra) high end it gets blurry. There are outstanding bed slinger options out there made of granite frames, precision linear rails, and so on. These machines aren’t designed for high speed but for ultimate reliability and quality with price tages in the $10k+ range for a 200x200mm machine.
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 2 months ago:
This is the base folder of the unzipped update.
differencing: WCH CH341 driver eve: AI chatbot scripts: boring scripts and a binary blob (.elf file: fdm_virtual_device)
Regarding the M9999:
else if(strcmp((const char *)rec_cmd[ptr].cmd,"M9999") == 0 ) { ansifo->main_cmd = SET_AUTO_TEMP_CMD; return SET_AUTO_TEMP_CMD; }
github.com/Raise3D/…/virtual_sdcard.py#L535
For M99123 there is only one reference: github.com/Raise3D/…/virtual_sdcard.py#L535
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 2 months ago:
I might have the klipper source unzipped from the update file (7 zip noticed that there is more data). Where do I need to check/look for this M99123 implementation?
The update file itself starts with: “RAISE - MXC - PACKAGE…” MXC might stand for STM MXcube as Rais uses an STM32 MCU. Scrolling through the file it looks like it also contains some sort of files for YOCTO-Linux for an NXP chip which might be related to the display.
Also does Klipper still use Python 2.7 and other EOL packages that are 15 years old by now?
Looking at the key-file: It is a gzip which contains a USTAR which contains some sort of, I suppose, key: “RAISE - MXC - KEY _ 'C[…]”
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 2 months ago:
Implementing a G-code that allows abitary code execution sounds like a pretty dumb idea especially since these are “industrial” printers.
But I have to say it kind of looks like some sort of binary blob. What is interesting is that the section “DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/” is repeating.
- Comment on Raise3D HyperFFF: M99123 2 months ago:
Preview images are in a separate .data file.
is this a cloud-first printer? Also totally possible it’s just telling the printer to download something remotely to support that HyperFFF mode
The printer isn’t connected to the internet and the hyperFFF works. The HyperFFF upgrade requires a firmware update and a key file that is specific to the machine/serial number. GCode isn’t machine-specific.
The underlying software/“firmware” is Klipper.
- Submitted 2 months ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 8 comments
- Comment on Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal? 2 months ago:
github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/…/3333
Introduced in 5.10 and fixed more than a year later in 6.11 (they claim I can’t check as I no longer use Prusa).
- Comment on Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal? 2 months ago:
The print quality is fine if the printer doesn’t freeze. Nothing exciting but also not bad for a $100 used device. Still, nothing to ride home about if $200 buys you a new BambuLab A1 mini. In sharp contrast is the Bambulab a reliable and superior printer in every aspect.
With this sad. If you still consider the Prusa Mini:
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DO NOT update the firmware to versions with input shaping! They introduced a bug that you need to remove the SD-card before turning it on or otherwise the printer believes the firmware is damaged/bricked. This bug has been known for quite a long time without any fix from Prusa (present in multiple “stable”/release firmware versions!!!). I got rid of the last Prusa few years ago because of this issue so it might be fixed, might be still broken.
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Do not rely on network connectivity/features. They are unstable meaning the printer needs to be restarted multiple times per day (combine this with the SD-card issue) or just freezes mid-print.
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- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
DRM on the resin combined with their high resin pricing is an issue. Heygears ABS-like is close to $90/kg while other ABS like are $25/kg.
Sadly this printer will never be a cost-effective solution with those jacked-up resin prices.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
Recomendation?
The buildplate should fit to make it easy to use.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
Software subscription and DRM on resin/filament are huge red flags. Had a look at heygears offerings as people describe it as the BambuLab equivalent for SLA. Looking into it, the feels more like a FormLabs company with overpriced resins and DRM to make you buy their resin.
Spending once 1.5-2k€ for the Flex RS printer is fine (more than I would like) but paying 40-70€/kg for resin killed it. Just not possible to economically justify paying twice as much for the source materials (resin). This would mean HeyGear jacking up the production cost by approx. 50-80%, indefinitely. A better option is it spend a day dialing in a third-party resin on the Prusa or Elegoo.
subscription = selling the same software indefinitely
paid upgrades = forced to deliver value/improvements with each paid update
for materials it is similar:
DRM = jacking up prices
open = competing on quality: You could use our first-party product with perfect integration but you are free to source whatever you like
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
Well, any printer will do that if you calibrate it well enough.
Pain point in the past where the build platform. Prints frequently failed because they would lift from the aluminum plate.
After a lot of trouble, I switched to a flexible buildplate which first was blasted with course “sand” followed by fine glass beans. flexplate so I can remove the print. The course surface makes the print stick but not stick too well. Would like this time to avoid all of this troubleshooting.
Also considered buying one of those printers that work upside down by projecting the light onto the surface and the print is lowered into the resin vat.
“Good” is fairly ambiguous here because what would a “good” slicer look like to you?
Good workflow (UI design), decent automatic support generation, good tool for manually brushing/configuring support material and ideally an elephant foot compensation setting/calibration for the first layer which has a significantly longer exposure time.
Support generation and being able to manually edit those pushed me toward PrusaSlicer.
The VAT tilt is a bit dangerous because of a potential resin leak of the release film, leaking into your printer’s internals
How big of an issue is that? Are the upgrades to seal the printer?
Back in the day, it was more or less a total economic loss for those cheap printers: LCD damaged, UV-array damaged and a complete mess within that was hard to clean.
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
I care about proprietary in the sense that I am locked to a certain slicer. Don’t care if the mechanical design and firmware is proprietary.
Also I don’t care that much about replacement parts. Affordable FEP-film (or those never versions of release film) is important. Other replacement parts are nice to have but never had to repair anything (the highest risk I see is flooding it with resin or dropping something in the vat that will crush the screen and if you are careful this is highly unlikely to ever happen especially now with the pressure detection on some printer models).
- Comment on returning to SLA-resin printing: Which printer, curing station & resin? 2 months ago:
Great to hear you like it and that UV-tools work with it. What I hated about anycubic photon workshop was that the support generation was 100% manual (automatically created unusable results). PrusaSlicer was so much easier to work with.
The nice aspect of network connectivity is comfortably moving files to it and receiving a notification once the print is done.
I keep misplacing USB-sticks or it is a pain to first walk to the printer, picking up the stick, returing to the PC, and walking once more to the printer.
- Submitted 2 months ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 19 comments
- Comment on Bambulab A1 vs Sovol sv06 ace+ 2 months ago:
Bambu Lab A1 or even better the A1 mini.
You can get a plate swapper for the A1 mini. Combine this with an AMS for automatic filament changes (switching spools if one runs out) and you get a lights-out manufacturing solution: swap-systems.com/product/swapmod/
- Comment on I have a question in regards to 3d modeling for a filament slicer addon to my hotend 2 months ago:
Do you mean with filament slicer a filament cutter?
