I notice my open air bambu labs p1p doest have any problems like this and it doesnt need a heat soak. Isnt the voron a better machine with higher quality parts?
Comment on cannot get an even first layer with a voron trident
morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 14 hours agoIt looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.
How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.
And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.
muusemuuse@lemm.ee 14 hours ago
muusemuuse@lemm.ee 14 hours ago
its a 25 minute heat soak before each and every print. I wonder if I should break that out of the print start macro and make its own macro.
its a magnetic sheet so that shouldn’t throw anything off. I flipped to the smooth side of the sheet which is much takier but its still having the same issues.
muusemuuse@lemm.ee 14 hours ago
I looked at your guide and theres something interesting mentioned for my model, the trident. the actual temp is lower that the measured temp on the top of the bed due to the thickness of the bed! I shoudl raise it by 10 degrees. I’m going to try that in a bit
morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 12 hours ago
Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.
I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections.