cannot get an even first layer with a voron trident

Comments

• flustered@lemmy.world ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  Your gantry is not in plane. For the rear right corner, you need to perform the following. I suggest you get on the Voron Discord and head to the trident building channel for additional help. Image

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  • muusemuuse@lemm.ee ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    beacon hovers over the bed. it doesnt touch anything.

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• stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  0.2mm flatness is very flat for a 3D Printer bed, I don’t even know if I achieved that with the Nylock mod on my old Prusa. This simply looks like a bed adhesion problem, clean your bed well with dish soap and water and then rinse well and make sure you don’t toch the surface. Check the first layer height and bed temp as well.

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  • muusemuuse@lemm.ee ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    I noticed something while printing. it doesnt have a bed mesh loaded when it prints. it saves the last mesh, but doesnt load it. why?

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• halfapage@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  Try carefully washing the surface with dishwashing soap, rinse and dry before next print. That spot might have something not visible on it that prevents filament from sticking. Grease, dust or residues from stone filaments tend to cause that.

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• Nilz@sopuli.xyz ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  I feel you OP. I have a Hypercube Evo that I can’t for the life of me get a leveled bed with. I’ve swapped linear rails with MGN, switched to multiple probes including a beacon that I still need to install but probably won’t help seeing this post.

  I think your frame isn’t straight, there’s twist somewhere that combined with an offset from probe to nozzle means it’s impossible to remove with probing as the offset in Z between nozzle and probe changes over X and/or Y. That’s the only thing I can think of at this point.

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  • muusemuuse@lemm.ee ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    Where could that twist be?

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    • Nilz@sopuli.xyz ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

      My guess would be from one side of the x-axis to the other, because then on one side the nozzle to probe offset would be less in Z then on the other. But it could also be anywhere else. Can you check if your frame is square?

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• VinS@sh.itjust.works ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  You have a lot of possible options here.

  • Your bed is ok, mine is 0.6 variation (sad I know)

  1. dish soap with no additives, rinse and dry it correctly before installing it back
  2. Verify that it’s doing this in the good order :

  • Pre-heat bed
  • Home XYZ
  • Bed leveling
  • Re home Z
  • Bed Mesh
  • Start print

  If everything is ok, as someone else said, it’s maybe a X twist.

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  • muusemuuse@lemm.ee ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    I have reworked the start_print gcode macro to incorporate a heat soak before scanning for a mesh. While its running that 20 minute soak, I notice that the temperature reading on the beacon coil is actual dropping while everything else is increasing during the soak. Is just above the bed, in the center, doors closed, and its readings are getting steadily lower. What could possibly cause that?

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    • VinS@sh.itjust.works ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      Heat soak should not change what you have here. During the heat soak, machine expands a little. You will get a more usefull Z / mesh when the machine gets to equilibrium.

      If you still have problems after that, it’s probably a X twisted, see the linked document above. Unfortunately I do not have much time to dig into your configs.

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• Malcolm@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  Do you have a single MGN rail on X or two? It’s easy to end up with twist on dual X rails that can be a bugger to try to straighten out.

  Also, are you doing a good heat soak before printing, and do your probe results change at all before and after heat soaks?

  If you’ve got a beacon on there, it seems like it would be well worth cranking the probe points way up.

  If it’s simply bed adhesion, definitely give the dish soap method a try if you haven’t already.

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  • muusemuuse@lemm.ee ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    cranked up the mesh points and switched from lagrange mesh to bicubic. here we are at 35x25 points. weird, I see spikes.Image

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    • morbidcactus@lemmy.ca ⁨10⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

      How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

      And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

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