BigDanishGuy

It kinda depends on what your goal is. Is it making a custom filament? or are you thinking of blending colors on the go? And are you looking for commercially available solutions?

If you’re looking for commercial solutions, then your guess is as good as mine. I know you can get filament recycling systems, where you crush failed prints and supports before then extruding usable filament. But I think that’s not what you’re looking for.

Going the tinker route instead, I think it was CNC kitchen that experimented with extruding their own filament by printing spiral of thick filament and then running it through a 1.75mm nozzle. They even got their logo embedded, and it was detectable in the finished prints layers.

But if you’re looking to blend on the go then maybe some manual g-code manipulation and custom hotends could work. But given that I asked about experiences with dual input hotend like the one below, and all the answers were along the lines of “don’t even bother”, I guess that you having to do a triple or quad input hotend won’t make it more likely to succeed.

Image

Maybe a rebuild will fix whatever is causing this. Because when you experience:

1. Stuck filament
2. Underextrusion

That does sound like a strictly a failure in the filament movement system. And I can only think of

1. Grinding extruder, which can also be a symptom of the following
2. Unstable temperature
3. Clogged nozzle

And since clearing the nozzle didn’t work, and you don’t find signs of grinding, nor observe temperature swings, then I’m out of ideas.

Do you happen to have spare nozzles? Maybe try swapping the nozzle and see if it was still clogged? I’ve had nozzles that I just couldn’t clear.

If temp is stable try having a look at the filament. Is the extruder grinding the filament?

It could also be a case of a blocked nozzle. Though that doesn’t explain the stuck filament.

When starting with an unpowered printer, i.e. the first print after powering printer up, does the issue happen at any part of the print, or only after a little while?

Without knowing what printer you have I offer this advice:

Does your printer keep the temperature? I had a creality cr6 that underextruded and in my case it was bad capacitors on the heating element circuit.

AIM? I think you meant to say “we use ICQ and everyone have a 5digit number”

Ooh can we have a IRC server too? We need a place to coordinate super soaker fights. Where did the humongous super soakers with backpacks go?

Thank you!

I have nothing but a hunch to back this up: I’d be weary of the potential bias introduced by the medicine price vs available cash in the general unemployed population. The households that can afford glp-1s will likely be socio-economically stronger, thus the unemployed women will be better educated and more likely to be re-employed.

What keeps the relay closed? Is there a latching circuit or is it the pressure sensor? Because it seems to me that this is where the problem is.

A couple of things I would look into:

• What’s on the heatsink? A transistor driving the relay
• What happens if you bypass the sensor and manually affect the circuit driving the relay?
• Going with the theory, that the relay is driven by a transistor, does said transistor have a diode across it?

I find the transistor being blown by the back EMF from the relay much more plausible, than a random resistor sliding out of spec.