bluewing

@bluewing@lemm.ee

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Philosophy moment⁩ ⁨⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  I’m thinking 3/4oz #8 birdshot is the zeroday attack.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Philosophy moment⁩ ⁨⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago⁩:

  But it does work in an electrically challenged environment when the latency of the internet is infinite. But it can be hacked by 3/4oz #8 birdshot.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Sales of Hard Drives for the End of the World Boom Under Trump⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago⁩:

  Like most prepper things for sale, this is a better product to skin money from the ignorant and the unreasonably fearful than it is truly useful. It assumes you have electricity and the functioning equipment to access it.

  In a real prepper situation, you either already ready have the knowledge in your head, (the best method), or you have real books and pamphlets to read, (slow to access).

  Remember Kiddies, if a real SHTF gets here, there not only won’t be no google or youtube, but there won’t be much time to use it anyway. Survival is a real time sink. And most living in the big cities will simply die in place anyway.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Tesla's "Predictive" Odometers Had 9+ Drivers Complaining of Inaccuracy Before Lawsuit. We Even Found Video!⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s supposed to be in the US also.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨3D Print Anything Without Supports - Non-Planar Slicing & Core R-Theta Printer⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  There is a lot of potential here. I have little doubt the printer and slicer algorithm will make it’s way to mainstream printing at some point.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Keychain tool and text⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah, Orca has issues with Fedora. The appImages often fail in particular. But I do have it running on Fedora Cinnamon 42 and Aurora 42, (spin off of Kinninite 42) with the flatpack from the GitHub.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Stepping up from Tinkercad but to what?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  I recommend installing the open light and open dark theme for a better user experience in FreeCAD. Everything seems a bit clear and easier to use, YMMV

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Recommended 3d printer models?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  As a house with 3 dogs and 2 cats, it’s not a real problem. Sometime a quick wipe is needed, but the critters ain’t going to interfere with any printing.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Keychain tool and text⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  When you slice the keychain, have you painted in the letters with the chosen colors? Does it show the purge tower after slicing? And when you click to send it to the printer, does the popup screen show 2 spool images and colors? If it does, then the text is there and just embedded below the surface. and you need to raise it up to be flush with the surface.

  Bambu Studio is ass for embedding text and some others things as well. Orca Slicer and Prusa Slicer a lot better with adding text.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah, it could be possible to only ever need the mini and 80% is perhaps conservative. But, I as much as I find my Bambu Mini can cover the majority of my printing needs these days, I still need the print volume my Prusa Mk3s has for a very good number of practical prints I design and print. The real world often demands real world size and hates pieced together part designs lack of strength. And I still often need to resort to my metal working shop with lathe, mill, drill press and welders to make serious parts because plastic just ain’t it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Do you use your blinker in a car?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  If you are wondering if others are on the road with you, you’re doing it wrong.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is a Prusa Mini+ for $100 a good deal?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  If it works, it’s a superb deal. And the print area will probably cover 80% of everything you might ever print.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Do you use your blinker in a car?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Turn signals are cool. But let’s ignore the fact I live in a very rural area and there is often no one within miles of me when driving. In that case, who am I going to signal to? That suicidal deer in the ditch? That’s the last SOB I want to have any clue about where I’m going. But anywhere I meet or see traffic I do use them. And definitely the once a month trip I make to a real town.

  I do not, as a rule, place any great amount of faith in turn signals. And that paranoia has saved me more than once. Far too often I have seen a driver with a turn signal blinking merrily blow past me either straight ahead or turn in the opposite direction. Had I believed those signals, I would have been tee-boned.

  The only thing I believe in is the direction your steer tires are turned. Turns out your vehicle will go in the direction they are pointing. Any of you new drivers, this is an excellent safe driving tip. Pay attention to the steer tires. Those tires will tell you the truth about the real intentions of another driver.

  In any case always remember-- it’s just as easy to be dead being dead right as it is being dead wrong. Be safe out there…

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambulab A1 vs Sovol sv06 ace+⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  This is kind of what I know from my experience. I have an A1 Mini with AMS lite and my trusty 5 year old Prusa Mk3s running Klipper. Not exactly the same, but close.

  Mechanically, the linear rails vs the linear rods are more rigid and lead better overall printer rigidity than the more flexible linear rods. Is it enough to matter? With input shaping easily available on both printers, not really. But, those rails will require a bit more maintenance than the rods. My mini regularly prompts for cleaning and re-lubricating every so many hours of run time. Is it hard? Nope, but it IS something Bambu really recommends. The linear rod bearings are supposed to be greased before installation, (whether Soval does this or not is a question. Prusa didn’t bother with my kit), And because the rod bearings have wiper seals to keep the dust out and the grease in, a quick wipe with a clean dry paper towel is all that’s needed. No exterior lubrication required.

  The AMS Lite is kind of nice, it keeps 4 spools of filament ready to go. And I keep 4 different colors ready or a spool to run out and then take advantage of being able to easily swap to another spool mid print and keep printing. I have done just enough multi-color prints to say I know how. Mostly just signage though. And it’s very wasteful as a rule. The RFID tags identification and setup isn’t worth the extra cost I need to pay vs the “generic” filaments I buy. I am not so unskilled or lazy to set up my own profiles quickly and easily. And the few spools of Bambu filament I have used has demonstrated it’s no better than any of the small handful cheaper brands I normally use. This is a YMMV situation. The Soval does not offer a builtin solution for the AMS, but some few more universal 3rd party units are now starting to come on the market.

  Another “this may or may not matter to you” is that Bambu runs on legacy Marlin and the Soval runs on Klipper. Adding things to Bambu’s version of Marlin while doable, is a pain in the butt. Not much information is available on their version. For example, I wanted to turn off the input shaping at the start of every print. It’s noisy and not needed for every print. It took me a couple of weeks to find and learn to edit the intro macro to achieve my goal. Klipper is far, far easier to edit and make changes in. And you can access things like Obico for Klipper to monitor prints for spaghetti detection-- which Bambu cannot do. You can also more easily ignore a region if a plate full of models has one model fail at some point. Bambu requires the Handy app and you need to be logged into Bambu to use it I think. Studio offers no such functionality on the desktop.

  The TL;DR: Your choice depends on what YOU want from your printer. It’s a YMMV all the way down. I do not regret my purchase of the Mini, but I won’t ever be buying another Bambu. But that’s just me.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Ender 3 V2 damage?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Infills over 10 to 15 percent get you very little increase in strength. It’s not until you get to the sweet spot of 80-85 percent infill rates do you get a real boost in strength. Then above about 85% the gains again taper off dramatically all the way to 100% infill. Otherwise you are merely wasting filament and money to just feel good. If you need more strength, add more perimeters and tops and bottoms.

  I would use a .60mm nozzle, PETG or PLA will work just fine, 4 perimeters, and 4 top and bottom layers. And either 10% cubic or gyroid infill. That should create a part that will last for years.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨6* months away now. If you're on 10, do you plan to upgrade? Make the jump to Linux?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  So many perfectly working older computers are going to be headed to the landfill as e-waste. That’s the horrible part.

  What a waste tech dollars just to play some stupid game.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Today's Survey. One point for everything that you have NEVER DONE⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I grew up a poor farm boy, so we never had a VCR when I was a kid. And they really weren’t a thing anyway when I was young. And according to my Father, us kids were the remote!

  Did you ever peer into the back of the TV when a tube would burn out and your Dad would pull the cabinet out, then remove the back and try to see which tube didn’t light up when the set was powered up? It was a marvelous sight! It often took us a few days before we would get to town before we could stop into the local drug store that had a tube tester and had a selection of the common tubes to buy.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Clean butt⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  That’s what I love about mine. Automatic lid raise and lower as you walk in, heated ring and water, (both adjustable temp), air dry, (again heated), and charcoal filtered air filtration to minimize the stench from that drive through burrito.

  It’s the posh life. Very nearly the equal to having your own chamberlain.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Clean butt⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  You need to use the power washer setting. Takes the paint right off the wall…

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Today's Survey. One point for everything that you have NEVER DONE⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I was thinking of even older things.

  The feel of the keys and staccato sounds of a mechanical typewriter.

  The sound of a wringer/washer machine

  The muffled sound of my am band 9 transistor pocket radio “hiding” under my pillow late at night for as long as the 9V battery would last (I loved the Mystery Radio Theater show that started at 10pm)

  The soft crackling sound of a tube black and white TV as all the tubes warmed up. (And the time it took to do so)

  The sound and smell of the percolator coffee pot in the morning

  The sound of a wooden screen slamming shut

  The smell and sound of a mimeograph machine printing copies in the school/church office (And the slight buzz you could get from copy fluid-- Petroleum aromatics Yum!)

  Doing my math homework with a slide rule.

  The smell of a fresh fired paper hull shotgun shell on a cold crisp late fall morning

  And so much more that no longer exists.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Today's Survey. One point for everything that you have NEVER DONE⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  A perfect zero. I have done all of those things and more that the creator of that list can’t even imagine. Things that were everyday common but have faded beyond memory, (and aren’t missed at all).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Print Data Recorder concept⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  And there is little reason to do input shaping on the start of every print unless you change the mass of the moving parts by a noticeable amount. And even then, it does nothing once the print starts. You get what you get anyway when the print is finished.

  What would be better is if a printer could measure and adapt to the changing resonances as the printer was printing. But I suspect that ain’t going to happen anytime soon due the complexity and the ultimate question: “How good does good enough really need to be.”

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Two Open Source Projects Combine to 3D Print a Working Replica Key Using a Flipper Zero⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Only if the lock isn’t worn or dirty on the inside. I wouldn’t trust this for any outdoor lock or older lock. Even cheap locks with poor fit and finish causing rough operation would not be a good idea. This is a fun gimmick that could easily cost you more money than it’s worth.

  The only way I might use it is if I were to use the 3D printed key as a pattern to cast a metal one. And I ain’t got time for that.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Microsoft tells Windows 10 users to just trade in their PC for a newer one, because how hard can it be?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Celery is excellent that way. A peanut butter lover’s dream

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Microsoft tells Windows 10 users to just trade in their PC for a newer one, because how hard can it be?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  No! CheezWiz with raisins or nothing! Just like my mother used to make.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Microsoft tells Windows 10 users to just trade in their PC for a newer one, because how hard can it be?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  My Acer Nitro with Aurora Says Hi!

  (I’m thinking maybe going to Kinonite)

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨My Klipperized Mk3s and A1⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I think those linear rods and bearing are the weak part of the system. They are too prone to vibrations and whipping around at high speeds. But I’m too lazy to go after more upgrades on my printer at this point.

  I do have a standard flow .60mm ObXidian for abrasive filament, but they were a LOT cheaper then. Plus I already have a lot of brass Revo nozzles already. But…I want.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨My Klipperized Mk3s and A1⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  It could be a fun project for the kids. A bit of googling should get you more information on different brands printers too. Plus all the open source projects available to do mods and accessories that can require some basic to moderate programming skills to be learned.

  I know how hard it can be to kids to have enough fun to learn about how to use technology. I spent a few years teaching CAD and 3D printing to kids in school. I also tried to get the machine shop up and running again. But the school would not allow it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨My Klipperized Mk3s and A1⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  If you open Bambu Studio, and click on the edit box to the right of you machine type and look at the first tab under Basic Settings, and in the Advanced section, its says G-Code flavor-- Marlin(legacy). Now, don’t mistake that for the firmware they use.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨My Klipperized Mk3s and A1⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Your Bear mod will be a lot different than my stock frame and E3D Revo V6 hotend. The profiles I have been using are based on what I think I can get away with from what I learned about from the input shaping. I think you can get away with a bit more than I can. Particularly if you went from the 8mm linear rods to a set of linear rails. That would be far more rigid and vibration damping along with the heavier frame. Did you go with a high flow extruder too? I’ve been debating on a .40mm Revo ObXidian high flow nozzle lately. But The cost is high even for the Revo eco-system.