IMALlama
@IMALlama@lemmy.world
- Comment on Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing 1 day ago:
That’s fair.
It’s one of the biggest repositories of human-to-human communication on the web.
I am showing my age and have spent decades on various web forums. These sites have thousands, or even tens of thousands, of users and huge quantities of threads some of which can be very deep. Yes, each individual site isn’t that big but there are tons of these things scattered around the web and I’m sure they’ve been crawled. One of the many, many, many manymanymany Ford Mustang forums has > 2 million replies. thirdgen.org, an 80s-early 90s Camaro/Firebird, forum has 763,427 threads with 6.45 million replies going back easily 20 years, which is well before bots.
Discord does have 154M monthly users, so you’re probably right that there is more content there than across all the various boards. It’s also probably a heck of a lot easier to crawl than a bunch of different web forums.
- Comment on Core One vs. Corona 2.4. 2 days ago:
Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they’re doing for z-endstop?
In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they’re not baked into the out of the box solution.
On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:
- let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
- wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
- bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
- I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that’s used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high
My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.
Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?
Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.
- Comment on Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing 2 days ago:
I don’t see that being worth much $$ given the massive quantities of that information already available on the web via forums and what not?
- Comment on Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing 2 days ago:
Lots of very general light chat and shit posts. It doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of revenue potential there.
- Comment on Core One vs. Corona 2.4. 2 days ago:
I bought a BOM in a box from West3D. I would say the build took 40 hours or so. This includes figuring out what parts to print, mechanical assembly, wiring, and getting klipper up and running.
- Comment on Core One vs. Corona 2.4. 2 days ago:
2.4 owner chiming in. It’s a long build and you should probably skip the drag chains due to wire breaks. I am very happy with the printer and the community. Mods are readily available, the stock models are all open source so if you want to make your own mods it’s easy, etc. My printer is also extremely reliable - click print, walk away, come back to a completed print. You’ll need to do some klipper setup to get here, but it’s very achievable with some basic macros like Z Caliberation.
As for print volume, larger prints result in more warpage if you want to print in anything other than PLA. It’s all about chamber temps, but larger prints = larger printer = more surface area for your enclosure to lose heat. Big PETG prints needs an enclosure, but it doesn’t need to be that intense - I was fine with acrylic panels and even popped the top. Big ASA/ABS prints need an insulated enclosure, but I can now print large ASA things successfully. To go with your enclosure you’ll also need a method of actively hearing it. Bedfans, and under bed filtration, is how I dealt with this on my Voron. Since Vorons are designed for an enclosure, all the electronics are not inside the enclosure. I do not know if that’s the case for the Prusa.
- Comment on You knew it was coming: Google begins testing AI-only search results | This version of Google won't show you the 10 blue links at all—Gemini completely takes over the results in AI Mode 3 days ago:
Moving from enshitified closed source to a different closed source that’s trying to position itself as user first isn’t necessarily bad.
- Comment on Firefox deletes promise to never sell personal data, asks users not to panic 1 week ago:
Duckduckgo’s browser uses webview as it’s main engine, which means that on a phone it will simply use blink (chromium) on Android and Windows device or webkit on Apple devices.
- Comment on YSK: Gas stoves cause cancer 1 week ago:
Very few residences have proper ventilation. In the US, a microwave above the stove is common. Microwave often do have a fan function, but the vast majority don’t vent outdoors. I doubt that running air through a very thin filter will do much good.
- Comment on (Troubleshooting) Does anyone have an elegoo giga? 1 week ago:
With no enclosure I would be pretty confident warping due to low ambient temp is what’s causing your print failures. With the top popped my chamber is around 40 °C / 104 °F and I haven’t experienced any PETG warping. My printer lives in my basement, which occupies a similar temperature range as your garage. On my old unenclosed i3 clone I would run into warping on bigger PETG prints.
If you’re feeling ambitious you could try throwing a (big) cardboard box over the whole thing and see if that helps. A few bed fans for good measure could be enough. I wouldn’t treat this as a permanent solution, but it could help you troubleshoot.
- Comment on (Troubleshooting) Does anyone have an elegoo giga? 1 week ago:
My daily printer is a 350 mm^3 Voron 2.4. I print larger prints most of the time, if you dig through my post history you’ll find some examples.
Your issue isn’t bed adhesion, it’s warping. I’ve had large prints coil to the point of pulling my spring steel bed off the magnet pretty significantly. You can continue to try to fight this (clamp the bed down), but ultimately you’re unlikely to succeed until you get warping under control.
Big prints can be very warp prone. In terms of ease/low warpage, I would say TPU > PLA > PETG > ASA/ABS.
Out of the box, Vorons are enclosed. I leave the sides on, close the door, and pop/rotate the top panel 45° for airflow when I’m printing both PLA and PETG. This has resulted in warp free prints for both materials.
For ASA/ABS, I was not able to achieve warp free prints until I was able to hit chamber temps of 55-60 °C thanks to swapping ACM panels and adding some radiant insulation. I also have 4x bedfans to help heat my chamber. Two are normal bedfans and two are part of an under bed carbon filter.
So questions:
- Are you running an enclosure?
- Do you know what chamber temps you’re able to achieve?
- Comment on Infill percentage versus stiffness 1 week ago:
For the test in question, top/bottom layers would help more than walls. I could see walls mattering more for different types of loading. Considering this video didn’t really see an increase in strength until 40% infill, one or two more top/bottom layers might actually use less material and result in more strength/rigidity.
- Comment on Infill percentage versus stiffness 1 week ago:
Bonus points for talking like they’ve been a teacher for a while!
- Comment on Infill percentage versus stiffness 1 week ago:
This is a pretty cool video. It would be interesting to do the same style test and leave infill fixed at a lower value while progressively adding more top/bottom layers. My suspicion is that more top/bottom layers would result in more stuffness.
- Comment on A bit of a warning about the Einstar VEGA 3D-Scanner 1 week ago:
Thanks for the reply, I was genuinely curious and haven’t looked into this much beyond window glancing.
I’ve done some level of flatbed scanning with a ruler to get a known scale and the results have been pretty consistent, but I totally get not wanting to be size limited. I generally print bigger things, which is one of the reasons why I haven’t looked at a scanner very hard.
A big reason why I wanted an All-in-one 3D scanner was because I want to reverse engineer objects I see “in the wild” and in museums
That’s an interesting use case that I hadn’t considered. Makes sense that you want portable and adds the extra challenge of likely not being able to touch the object being scanned.
- Comment on A bit of a warning about the Einstar VEGA 3D-Scanner 2 weeks ago:
Did you happen to look into Open Scan? It’s reasonably open and is PI based. I don’t know a ton about them, but it seems like a viable alternative at first glance.
- Comment on Petg Calibration Issues 2 weeks ago:
I suggest printing a fresh temp tower. My bet is that temperature or retraction is off (have you fiddled with retraction lately) or the filament is super wet.
- Comment on Petg Calibration Issues 2 weeks ago:
Is this a new spool or an old spool? Have you printed this blend of PETG before? What does a temperature tower look like?
- Comment on MIT Demonstrates Fully 3D Printed, Active Electronic Components 2 weeks ago:
I don’t see this being practical beyond a “neat” any time soon. Because it relies on thermal expansion and contraction it won’t be very fast to cycle. It’s also physically pretty long/wide, so a more traditional IC or microcontroller would likely be a better choice unless it’s super thin.
This is still cool, but I am failing to see a practical application.
If/when they’re able to print transistors it will be a lot more interesting.
- Comment on MIT Demonstrates Fully 3D Printed, Active Electronic Components 2 weeks ago:
This is pretty cool.
This is the how-they-done-it paragraph. Essentially, they printed mechanical logic gates by taking advantage of a conductive filament that grows/shrinks as it heats and cools. Cool!
The conductive filament the researchers used is Electrifi by Multi3D, which is PLA combined with copper micro-particles. A segment printed in this filament is normally very conductive due to the densely-packed particles, but as temperature increases (beginning around 40° C) the polymer begins to soften and undergoes thermal expansion. This expansion separates the copper particles, causing a dramatic increase in electrical resistance as electrical pathways are disrupted. That’s pretty neat, but what really ties it together is that this behavior is self-resetting, and reversible. As long as the PLA isn’t straight up melted (that is to say, avoids going over about 150° C) then as the material cools it contracts and restores the conductive pathways to their original low-resistance state. Neat!
- Comment on Is there something I can do about it? [Phalaenopsis orchid] 2 weeks ago:
It’s interesting that it’s a middle leaf. Our orchids tend to grow new leaves on the top and drop leaves on the bottom as they put out new roots going up their stem. Every few years I have to unpot them and cut the bottom few inches, otherwise they will climb out of their pot.
When our orchids drop leaves they look very similar to the leaf on your plant.
In my experience, this variety of orchid thrives on benign neglect. Ours very rarely get fertilized. They also only get watered every two weeks or so and when they get watered the bark they’re in is pretty well saturated.
- Comment on 3D Printed Air Raid Siren Sounds Just Like The Real Thing 2 weeks ago:
I live in the Midwest. We have these all over as a weather alerting system. They test them monthly at a fixed time, but I could see this triggering someone - especially if they didn’t know it was coming.
- Comment on Recreate old chess pieces 2 weeks ago:
You got a lot of replies on the modeling side of things. It’s not clear if you have a printer, so let me quickly hit on that.
There are a bunch of different 3D printing services you can use to print things, including local (at your library potentially or a maker space) as well as commercial.
3D printera fall into big buckets:
- melt the material as you go. The most common version is FDM. FDM printers can make somewhat fine detailed prints, but their forte is making larger things with larger details
- deposit a layer of material and fuse it via light. This can be done with a powered material and a laser (SLS) or a liquid resin and a light source (SLA). This method produces much higher detailed prints, but has a bigger barrier to entry. SLS printers are expensive, but can produce large and very durable prints. SLA printers have affordable home versions, but their build volume is somewhat small, their parts will require post processing to finish (rinsing, during), and you will have to deal with responsible disposal of the used resins and solvents. Resin prints are hard, but can be a bit brittle
If you’re going to be purchasing the prints, I would go SLS. You’ll get fine details and the parts can be nylon (or even metal) so they’ll be durable.
If you’re printing at home, SLA is probably the way to go.
- Comment on [meta] Thoughts on "I made progress on this"? 3 weeks ago:
Very nice. Did you pull the switches apart to fiddle with the springs? I’ve never seen that many, or really any, springs in the same photo as a mechanical keyboard before.
- Comment on [meta] Thoughts on "I made progress on this"? 3 weeks ago:
Totally agree! Let’s celebrate the journey and not just the destination. Oftentimes, the journey is more interesting and you might not ever make it to the destination.
- Comment on [meta] Thoughts on "I made progress on this"? 3 weeks ago:
Go for it! Those sound like things I would be interested in reading about.
I’ve been (slowly) battling making a hand powered generator with one of my kids who’s fascinated by these kinds of things. I am going to try to put together a post describing where we are, why progress is currently stopped, and what I’m doing to try to get over the hurdle.
- Submitted 3 weeks ago to imadethis@lemm.ee | 12 comments
- Comment on Unofficial TikTok downloads surge in the US 3 weeks ago:
As a recent modern Mac user, this experience is so bizarre and is always a little different.
I grew up on macs (thanks mom) and built a PC as soon as I had my first real job in highschool. I recently bought a MacBook for the promise of battery life and cool running. If only it was easier to get my arm windows laptop to boot Linux…
- Comment on What is your ideal ambient humidity? 3 weeks ago:
My printer and filament live in my basement. We have a dehumidifier down there set to 55%. Some filament spools take a year plus for me to go through and I’ve never dried any of them. I have not noticed a meaningful change in print quality, but I also rarely go from an old to a new spool of the same material back to back.
I printed mostly PETG and ASA with some PLA thrown in.
- Comment on Are 3D-printed objects waterproof? 4 weeks ago:
But it looks like achieving proper dependable watertightness might be a whole side project of its own.
This is the case, especially if you want watertight prints right off the printer. Post processing (eg coating, smoothing, etc) are another approach. Post processing also seems like it would be more consistent print to print.