IMALlama
@IMALlama@lemmy.world
- Comment on What are your favorite open source 3D printers? 21 hours ago:
I built a cardboard enclosure around my poor old i3 clone to get my Voron parts printed. It was a bit janky, but it worked and I can now say that my i3 clone can totally print ASA.
But agree that not having an existing printer at all does make for a potentially harder build, especially as figuring out all the parts you’ll actually need ahead of time can be somewhat challenging.
- Comment on What are your favorite open source 3D printers? 21 hours ago:
I have a 350mm 2.4 and chose it specifically because I tend to make bigger things. The flying gantary is super cool looking, but it does come with a downside: all your tool head cables, if you switch to an umbilical instead of the cable chain, and your filament run have to accommodate the gantary getting ever higher if you have a tall print. It’s not an unsolvable problem, but it’s also a problem that doesn’t exist if the bed is the thing that moves.
One of the pluses of a Voron is that it’s enclosed, which means that you can print ASA/ABS for pretty rugged prints. This means needing to preheat the chamber - especially for larger prints. On a big printer this can take quite some time, and also requires some insulation, but there really isn’t a way around it without doing something silly like putting a heater other than the bed in the printer. Fortunately, if you’re printing a smaller part you don’t have to worry about preheating.
A three final thought on a big prints:
- when prints get big enough basically everything will warp without a heated chamber. This is especially true for ASA and ABS but is also true for PETG. I haven’t tried a big PLA print, but I imagine once they pass a certain size they’ll warp too
- if you want fast prints you should look at wide extrusions and thicker layers. I run a 0.6mm nozzle basically all the time with 0.8mm or 0.9mm extrusion widths and 0.3mm layers. It’s all about how quickly you can lay down plastic in mm^3. This will make your bottleneck your hot end
- even with chunkier layers big prints can take a long time. I printed a speaker and it took something like 20 hours for the biggest body and it was “only” around 280mm in circumference and 270mm or so tall. Granted, if I could have fit this on my i3 clone it would have probably taken 5x longer due to a much weaker hot end.
There are bigger printers out there, but between warping and print time I don’t know that I would personally want one. For the rare times when 350mm isn’t enough I can always split parts, but that hasn’t been an issue so far.
- Comment on What are your favorite open source 3D printers? 21 hours ago:
Most Voron folks will usually suggest building as close to stock as you can initially and going from there. LDO’s kits modify the stock BOM quite a bit, which can make for a more challenging build. Buying from someone like West 3D. Formbot kits use to stick to the stock BOM fairly well too.
As for support, there’s an active discord server and forum you can use to get help. They also have a print it forward program where you’re matched with a Voron owner who will print your functional parts for the cost of material.
- Comment on What are your favorite open source 3D printers? 2 days ago:
3 hours in and no one’s brought up VoronDesign? You can’t buy their priners or parts directly, you either have to self source or buy some variant or “BOM in a box” from a third party. I’ve had mine for two (three?) years and although the build was long it was very well documented, via a 240+ page lego-like build manual. It’s a great printer and community.
- Comment on Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass. 5 days ago:
Sorry for the delayed reply. No, too warm won’t cause warping. However, the hold side of your hot end will at best be ambient temperature. If it gets too warm you can clog your nozzle.
My view is “if the chamber doesn’t need to be hotter why make it hotter?”.
If you were printing ASA/ABS you want your chamber to go basically as hot as you can get it though - especially if you’re printing something big.
- Comment on Longest comment chain! 1 week ago:
This is the deepest I’ve ever seen Jerboa render comments.
- Comment on Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass. 1 week ago:
Lifting on the corners, especially if this was a bed sized print, was probably due to warping. It stinks that it took out your bed, but warping probably wasn’t the cause there.
My main printer these days is enclosed. When I print PETG on it I’ll pop the lid open because PETG doesn’t like to be too warm.
- Comment on Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass. 1 week ago:
That looks like somewhat similar to an ultrabase bed. I have had one of those on my i3 clone for years and years. I’ve also printed a reasonable amount of PETG on it. Was the print and/or bed warm when you tried to pull it off? Prints detach much better when cool.
- Comment on Downsize Ender 5 plus? 1 week ago:
The ender 5 isn’t a bed slinger so it should be relatively compact for its print volume. You can certainly get a smaller printer. You can do this by getting a more compact printer and/or sacrificing build volume. If you want compact you’re probably going to want a coreXY
For example:
- your ender 5 pro is 552mm x 485mm x 510mm and has a build volume of 220mm x 220mm x 300
- a Prusa i3 mk3 is 500mm x 550mm x 400mm and has a build volume of 210mm^3^ (the bedslinger is indeed bigger)
- a 300mm^3^ Voron 2.4 is 460mm x 460mm x 480mm and has, well, a 300mm^3^ build volume. They also have a 250mm version that will probably save another 50mm in every dimension
- a Prusa mini is 380mm × 330mm × 380mm and has a build volume of 180mm ^3^
- a Voron 0.2 is 230mm x 230mm x 250mm and has a build volume of 120mm^3^
- I gave up on finding dimensions on the salad fork, but it’s probably going to be even smaller than the v0 due to using 15x15 extrusions instead of 20x20
- Comment on Indoor lettuce growing in 3D printed pots 2 weeks ago:
Hobby woodworker here. Shellac is great for an initial seal, but isn’t waterproof. I suggest using a two part epoxy instead. You don’t need a very thick coat, so you could even use a crack filler and/or self leveling variety.
- Comment on Prints appear to be lifting in one corner. 1 month ago:
Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I’ll try to be brief.
- warping is due to the plastic shrinking as it cools. This builds tension in the lower layers of the print
- bigger prints are naturally more warp prone
- part shape and aspect ratio also plays a role. Parts with big aspect ratios (eg much wider or longer than the other axis) are more warp prone. Parts with sharp transitions are also more likely to warp
- different filaments are more warp prone than others. PLA is least prone, followed by PETG. ASA/ABD are the most warp prone I’ve printed so far
- fiddling with temps and speeds can help
- make sure you have good bed adhesion (clean bed, good first layer, etc)
- having good bed adhesion will only take you so far. I’ve had prints pull my magnetic bed plate up
- you can try printing a draft shield around your part (think a skirt as tall as your part)
- IMO eclosures are the way to go for warp prone parts. You’ll need to be somewhat careful about chamber temps getting too high (this can cause nozzle clogs for PLA/PETG) or not getting high enough (ASA/ABS will still warp in a cool chamber). My enclosure has a removable lid that I pop for PLA/PETG and has insulation/bedfans/a filter for ASA/ABS
- Comment on Prints appear to be lifting in one corner. 1 month ago:
Dish soap is better than alcohol, especially if you’re cleaning the bed in a sink with lots of water to rinse all the accumulated oils off.
- Comment on 3D Printing Patterns Might Make Ghost Guns More Traceable Than We Thought 1 month ago:
There’s also all the mess of slicer and printer settings. It would be interesting to give someone a collection of parts with different nozzle sizes, extrusion widths, pressure advance settings, temp settings, print speeds/accelerations, etc
- Comment on DIY experimental Redox Flow Battery kit 1 month ago:
Interesting project! I will have to give it a look.
sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge
Any more details here? I’m guessing the necessary material for electrolytic and what not? Do you know about the boring adjacent stuff like measuring (eg how accurate do the measurements need to be, how precise, etc), disposal, etc?
- Comment on 7,818 titles on Steam disclose generative AI usage, or 7% of Steam's total library of 114,126 games, up from ~1,000 titles in April 2024 1 month ago:
Not sure, but I would suspect that AI output would likely be very similar to procedural generation output in that it will need some massaging before it can be used as a final asset.
- Comment on 7,818 titles on Steam disclose generative AI usage, or 7% of Steam's total library of 114,126 games, up from ~1,000 titles in April 2024 1 month ago:
Procedural generation of content in games is by no means a new thing. Even if the end state isn’t completely procedurally generated, odds are a version of the asset was initially and a human touched it up as necessary. When you’re talking about large asset sets (open world and/or large maps, tons of textures, lots of weapons, etc) odds are they weren’t all 100% hand made. Could you imagine making the topology map and placing things like trees in something like RDR2?
That’s not to say all this automation is necessary a good thing. It almost feels like we’re slowly chugging through a second industrial revolution, but this time for white collar workers. I know that I tell myself that I would rather spend my time solving problems vs doing “menial” work and have written a ton of automation to remove menial work from my job. I do wonder if problem solving will become at least somewhat menial in the future.
- Comment on Say Hello to the World's Largest Hard Drive, a Massive 36TB Seagate 2 months ago:
Check the post title ;)
- Comment on Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds 2 months ago:
For ACM - like aluminium honeycomb?
ACM is more of a sandwich. Aluminum, plastic, aluminum.
I have a boring old klicky. It works very for me 🤷
- Comment on Your TV Is Spying On You 2 months ago:
We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it’s not worth the expensive or all the modern “features” such as these.
- Comment on Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds 2 months ago:
I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you’re going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.
If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.
- Comment on Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds 2 months ago:
$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm^3 for build volume and 500mm^3 rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.
That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn’t that useful for big prints IMO. You’re probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you’re probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That’s the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with “only” a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.
- Comment on New God tier filament for me 2 months ago:
These units are somewhat silly IMO. It all comes down to volumetric flow. Big nozzle + thick extrusions + thick layers would probably mean needing to print slower than that speed due to the ability of a hot end to melt the filament.
/ someone who has been mm^3/s constrained for a while now
- Comment on Keeping Snap And Crackle Under Control With Prunt Printer Firmware 2 months ago:
For quite some time now, Marlin has been the firmware of choice for any kind of custom 3D printer, with only Klipper offering some serious competition in the open-source world
Confused Voron noises
- Comment on (Phalaenopsis-) Orchid repotting advice needed 2 months ago:
That seems like a lot of damage for one week, but I guess anything is possible.
In general, plants don’t like sudden changes to their environment. That’s why you should gradually introduce indoor plants to sunlight if you move them outdoors - you’ll give them sunburn. I suspect the same is true for roots. I keep my orchids in bark and let them dry out some between waterings. I suspect if their roots were suddenly moist 24/7 they wouldn’t be too happy about it.
I hate to link reddit, but more info found here
- Comment on How do I go about using/having printed purchased files off Etsy? How safe is it? 2 months ago:
1 and 5: Either should be fine, especially if the seller is reputable and has reviews. Many sells will have a store on multiple sites, but in some cases people will resell other people’s work. See if you can track down the original creator to support them 2: I suspect everyone will want STLs they won’t have to do any processing on. What do I mean? Well, I could give you a STL for a piece that’s massively too large and would need to be split into pieces or a different STL that will be impossible to print well. I suspect print services won’t want to deal with this, will charge for it, and/or you might not be happy with the final outcome 3: If you’re paying someone to print the parts, they will likely have larger format printers. However, this might cost some $$ 5: It depends how thick the designs are and how strong you want them to be (more perimeters = stronger), but keep in mind that you’re also paying for machine time and potentially processing (eg surface finishing, support removal, etc). To get a feel for a quote without buying this design, find some cosplay armor on something like printables and use that for quotes
- Comment on New Court Order in Stratasys v. Bambu Lab Lawsuit 2 months ago:
I had no idea this was even going on, so that’s a potential plus.
Stratasys filed the two lawsuits against Bambu Lab in the Eastern District of Texas, Marshall Division, in August 2024. The company claims that Bambu Lab’s X1C, X1E, P1S, P1P, A1, and A1 mini 3D printers violate ten of its patents. These patents cover common 3D printing features, including purge towers, heated build plates, tool head force detection, and networking capabilities.
I had heard that Stratasys was a bit of a patent troll, but some of those claims are news to me.
- Comment on 3D Printer Simulator could take the guesswork out of printing — Virtual 3D printer mirrors physical machine's quirks, like stringing, supports multi-color printing 2 months ago:
Can confirm, klipper does this too. Sincerely, someone who had a few thermistor related wire breaks.
- Comment on 3D Printer Simulator could take the guesswork out of printing — Virtual 3D printer mirrors physical machine's quirks, like stringing, supports multi-color printing 2 months ago:
Adding encoders to your steppers, or buying stepper motors with built in encoders, can help a lot but it’s not a cheap solution. It can also be a bit bulky, so packaging them a printer not designed for them can be tricky.
- Comment on Threaded Insert Press Is 100% 3D Printed 2 months ago:
I also free hand. Every once in a while I wish they were more perfectly square, but then I realize I don’t actually care enough to print a fixture and have to deal with attaching/detaching my Weller.
- Comment on Is a Voron 3D printer worth it?? 3 months ago:
I suggest checking out this post. I have quite a few replies about the voron experience.
TL;DR - agree that a Voron can be a start and walk away printer. Building it will take some time, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing but know what you’re getting into. It will take some configuration and tuning to get it printing, but the Voron initial setup guide and Ellis’s print tuning guide are very easy to follow.
