IMALlama

@IMALlama@lemmy.world

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨1312⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  Making a community is easy. Keeping it red with content takes a certain level of critical mass :(

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨THE CLASS WAR IS BACK, BABY!⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I’m sorry - what strategy finally got us gay marriage?

  Gay marriage is presently legal in the US at a federal level due to a Supreme Court ruling, not a law. It seems inevitable that this will change given the present makeup of the court, similar to abortion.

  I am all for LGBTQ rights, but until something is passed by Congress the current situation seems precarious.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Wanted to share a simple phone stand I designed in these trying times⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Odds are your phone has a modern connector so this isn’t necessary. I replaced my pixel 3a, which I bought in September 2019, last December. Thanks to wired phone projection, I cycled its USB-C connector twice a day for 5 years and 3 months. That’s ~4,000 cycles. The connector specification calls for a 10,000 cycle lifetime.

  I did have to de-lint the connector from time to time, but other than that I had no issues.

  Not to say that you shouldn’t use inductive charging of course :)

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨FL wants more child labor⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I was born in the 80s. I had a paper route at 13 so I could buy an OG PlayStation. Definitely not crazy shift work, but I wonder how a 13 year old could find employment for some spending money these days.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How can I get the clogged filament out of this heatblock?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  My old i3 clone came with a 1mm steel rod I use in these situations. Leave the extruder on your printer, cut the filament off, heat up the extruder to a normal printing temp, and push the gunk through the nozzle. If you have a cold side clog you’re probably going to have to add heat from something like a heat gun.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is this just crappy Filament⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  No problem! I’m glad you were able to get to the bottom of it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨50% of parents financially support adult children, report finds. Here's how much it costs them.⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Fun fact, if you save money for retirement, it tends to go up, shocking.

  I wonder how long “line goes up” will last. Forget late stage capitalism, this whole thing was built on growth. What happens when global birthrates drop below the replacement rate? It certainly seems we’re heading in that direction. This will make a lot of our current systems/structures struggle.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Popular 3D printer vendor has come up with a foldable portable concept that's mindblowing⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  If you add position sensors to the servos you shouldn’t need much calibration after the first go, no?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Popular 3D printer vendor has come up with a foldable portable concept that's mindblowing⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  It looks a lot like a typical robotic arm used in manufacturing. A quick Google shows that there are a number of desk mounted versions available, but I have no idea what kind of accuracy they offer. It shouldn’t be that complicated of a design and since most approaches use encoders things like missteps should be a thing of the past.

  I can’t see pulling this off at a home user price point without pretty big compromises on positioning accuracy and/or giving up on feedback.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Millennials are watching monthly student loan payments skyrocket from $500 to $5000 under Trump: This will ‘crash the economy’⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Now this I totally agree with. Between everything you said above, climate change, and many societies having a birthrate below the replacement rate, it will be very interesting to see how the next century or two plays out. Not that I’ll be around to see it.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Millennials are watching monthly student loan payments skyrocket from $500 to $5000 under Trump: This will ‘crash the economy’⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Experiential avoidance isn’t a new idea. Humans have a prepotency to ignore their problems vs tackle them head-on. We also like to avoid long term planning.

  I am not a fan of many of the current administrations coming into power across the globe, but I do not think that an insidious plan to make us less free thinking/cognitively aware is the primary cause of this wave.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is this just crappy Filament⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I would strongly suspect a retraction/priming or mechanical related issue give byhe fact that it’s repeatable in the same area of the print.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is this just crappy Filament⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Has the printer been used recently and put out good prints? Has anything about the setup changed including a slicer update or different slicer?

  I have two knee jerk reactions

  Is there an under-extruded section of the print, similar to the corner closest to the camera on the lower section of the print, on the top section of the print? You might have a retraction/priming problem. A quick retraction test print would make this pretty obvious.

  You might have had a partial clog that resolved itself, but the fact that the extrusion issues change with the topology of the design makes me want to suggest something else. Try the print again. If you get the same outcome filament isn’t the primary cause.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Millennials are watching monthly student loan payments skyrocket from $500 to $5000 under Trump: This will ‘crash the economy’⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Largely agree. The “right” degree in the “right” field you can land a decent paying job. There’s no guarantee that this degree/field lines up with your personal interests, which will make it harder to do well in the field. There’s also no guarantee that the the degree/field will remain relevant over time. If you’re in the corporate job a fun/rewarding/engaging job is not common. Much more common is a boring, soul crushing, or grind fest type position. If the only life advice you get when you’re young is “go to college” the odds of choosing the “right” degree/field is not very high.

  You can absolutely make more going into a trade. Be a plumber, an electrician, a lineman, etc. Beyond trades, America is forgetting how to make stuff and that was a major source of higher paying jobs. There are also a number of interesting shocks on the horizon - the decreasing birthrate, changes in worker aptitude, a culture that leans into instant gratification (action!) over long term results, etc.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Millennials are watching monthly student loan payments skyrocket from $500 to $5000 under Trump: This will ‘crash the economy’⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Three things going on:

  1. Schools are expensive because the amount of public funding to universities has been slowly shrinking over the past 60 years. College in the US back in th 1960s was very cheap.
  2. Student loan amounts due did not change, but income based repayment options did which means people’s minimum payments went up
  3. Students in the US were told college is the only career path for the past 40-50 years. This obviously isn’t true and is why we have trades shortages. In many cases, that’s also all the advice people received. There was no coaching for what kind of degree to pursue or what field to angle for, so a number of people got expensive degrees that didn’t have good career prospects. To be completely honest, I lucked into choosing engineering because of my interests and the interests of my friends
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Millennials are watching monthly student loan payments skyrocket from $500 to $5000 under Trump: This will ‘crash the economy’⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  My mom qualified for, and received, federal student loan forgiveness. Yes, she had to make payments and work in a qualifying job for 10 years but due to her low income the payment amount was adjusted down.

  Unless you’re in a position that qualifies for loan forgiveness, and you trust that forgiveness will be there when you qualify, income based payment rates are not a good idea. The total amount owed by my mom actually grew over the years because the amount she was paying was less than the amount of interest charged. For a bit when she was 8 years in she had a scare that she wouldn’t qualify and was shocked to find this out, despite saying “I’ve paid thousands!!!”.

  Your average American isn’t very financially literat, or lives in the land of denial, which makes them easy to take advantage of.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Share your 3D prints!⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Printers are a lot easier and more repeatable than they were 12 years ago. In FDM the big advances are print speed, quality of life, and filament material. Home SLA printers are also a lot more available than they were 12 years ago, but the overall process here hasn’t changed (print, rinse, cure). The big question is if/when SLS will make it to a home user price point.

  My prints are mostly self designed and functional. I’ll have to dig up some examples once I’m on a computer.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I’ve dabbled in both automotive work and home renovation. Anyone who can do auto body work or interior finishing work well deserves way more credit than they usually get, so big kudos. I am pretty solid at the mechanical bits, but when it comes to finishing/painting things are a lot more difficult for me.

  Print finishing is something I’ve thought about a few times now, but most of my prints are functional and live a pretty hard life. A bit of texture from layer lines and other imperfections is the least of their concerns. That said, I have sanded ASA some and it sands amazingly well. I could see getting it pretty smooth without too much effort and then either using a solvent based or finishing based method. Of course, if your print has a lot of fine detail this is going to be a massive PITA.

  You can totally build a Voron anyway! I suggest magnetic panels, which makes popping the top super easy if you want to print PLA. I’ve run PLA, PETG, TPU, and ASA through mine. I have an under bed carbon filter that does a pretty good job with fumes.

  Agree on bike parts being a good print test bed. I’m impressed that anything held up with pedal loads, there’s a lot of force there.

  My main motive for sticking with ASA is its easily attainable high volumetric flow. I can easily swing 30 mm^3/s on my Rapido without having to jack up temps. Between this, Core-XY motion, and input shaping prints are way faster than my old i3 clone. PETG is quite a bit slower. PLA can be fast, but it’s also somewhat brittle.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Makes a huge difference with my junky TPU if it is dry or not

  I am happy to have gotten lucky with Overture 95A!

  ASA/ABS

  I design my own prints too, but I also have a 350mm x 350mm bed. My bed size has lead to some fairly large prints. My printer is a Voron and I originally built it with the stock acrylic enclosure. This was fine for smaller parts (say 150-175 mm and smaller), but despite keeping keeping corners rounded and avoiding rapid shape transitions I still had some prints pull themselves apart or pull the print bed up. Even on cylindrical and rounded rectangle prints, without a solid top or bottom. It wasn’t until I insulated my Voron that I was able to pull these larger prints off with a chamber temp of around 58 C.

  Maybe I should try another material as so far I’ve been sticking with polymaker ASA because it’s cheap and prints decently. What are you using?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  That enclosure might work for smaller ASA prints, but I needed a lot more insulation than a garbage bag to pull off larger prints.

  Maybe I got lucky with TPU, but I didn’t run into any significant issues with humidity when I printed treads for wagon wheels over the course of two or three days.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  TPU will be nearly impossible for your kiddo to destroy. ASA/ABS are rugged, but if your print has thin surfaces it’s less strong in my experience than PETG.

  I didn’t find TPU hard to print personally, just go slow and turn retraction way down or completely off. It will string pretty good, but most slicers have a setting to avoid crossing perimeters that will keep it in check. The only thing I would be wary of is ending up with a floppy print, so make sure the part has some structure.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  For smaller prints, agree. For larger prints a cardboard box will do just fine, but it needs a little something in my experience. Not too much mind you.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  That’s fair.

  It’s one of the biggest repositories of human-to-human communication on the web.

  I am showing my age and have spent decades on various web forums. These sites have thousands, or even tens of thousands, of users and huge quantities of threads some of which can be very deep. Yes, each individual site isn’t that big but there are tons of these things scattered around the web and I’m sure they’ve been crawled. One of the many, many, many manymanymany Ford Mustang forums has > 2 million replies. thirdgen.org, an 80s-early 90s Camaro/Firebird, forum has 763,427 threads with 6.45 million replies going back easily 20 years, which is well before bots.

  Discord does have 154M monthly users, so you’re probably right that there is more content there than across all the various boards. It’s also probably a heck of a lot easier to crawl than a bunch of different web forums.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Core One vs. Corona 2.4.⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they’re doing for z-endstop?

  In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they’re not baked into the out of the box solution.

  On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:

  • let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
  • wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
  • bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
  • I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that’s used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high

  My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.

  Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?

  Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I don’t see that being worth much $$ given the massive quantities of that information already available on the web via forums and what not?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Lots of very general light chat and shit posts. It doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of revenue potential there.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Core One vs. Corona 2.4.⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I bought a BOM in a box from West3D. I would say the build took 40 hours or so. This includes figuring out what parts to print, mechanical assembly, wiring, and getting klipper up and running.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Core One vs. Corona 2.4.⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  2.4 owner chiming in. It’s a long build and you should probably skip the drag chains due to wire breaks. I am very happy with the printer and the community. Mods are readily available, the stock models are all open source so if you want to make your own mods it’s easy, etc. My printer is also extremely reliable - click print, walk away, come back to a completed print. You’ll need to do some klipper setup to get here, but it’s very achievable with some basic macros like Z Caliberation.

  As for print volume, larger prints result in more warpage if you want to print in anything other than PLA. It’s all about chamber temps, but larger prints = larger printer = more surface area for your enclosure to lose heat. Big PETG prints needs an enclosure, but it doesn’t need to be that intense - I was fine with acrylic panels and even popped the top. Big ASA/ABS prints need an insulated enclosure, but I can now print large ASA things successfully. To go with your enclosure you’ll also need a method of actively hearing it. Bedfans, and under bed filtration, is how I dealt with this on my Voron. Since Vorons are designed for an enclosure, all the electronics are not inside the enclosure. I do not know if that’s the case for the Prusa.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨You knew it was coming: Google begins testing AI-only search results | This version of Google won't show you the 10 blue links at all—Gemini completely takes over the results in AI Mode⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Moving from enshitified closed source to a different closed source that’s trying to position itself as user first isn’t necessarily bad.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Firefox deletes promise to never sell personal data, asks users not to panic⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Duckduckgo’s browser uses webview as it’s main engine, which means that on a phone it will simply use blink (chromium) on Android and Windows device or webkit on Apple devices.