IMALlama
@IMALlama@lemmy.world
- Comment on What's your go-to "Bang for your Buck" filament brand? 2 days ago:
TIL of Jesse, thanks for the link!
- Comment on What's your go-to "Bang for your Buck" filament brand? 2 days ago:
I’ve printed a decent amount of PETG from both Push Plastic and Atomic Filament. Both have been very solid/reliable, but I would probably give an edge to Atomic as far as quality. Their PETG has never let me down. On the ASA front, I’ve run around 9 kg of Polymaker ASA through my Voron with another 1.5 of blue and white sitting on two different 3kg spools. I ran 2 kg of their ASA through my i3 clone printing prints for my Voron. I haven’t had any problems with it, and it does occasionally go on sale for very attractive prices. I bought my last two spools on November 24th last year for $50.39 (for a 3 kg spool of blue) and $67.19 (for a 3 kg spool of white). Polymaker’s ASA does require what seems like a very low extrusion multiplier (I’m currently at 0.893), but you can print the stuff blazing fast in terms of mm^3/s.
Now that I know that both Atomic Filament and Push Plastic offer ASA, I might give them a spin when I need a refill. I don’t go through that much filament and don’t mind spending a little extra $$ for something that could result in less headache. I also like supporting American companies/manufacturers where I can.
- Comment on I've got a mix of good, bad, good, bad, and good again news/progress 2 days ago:
The printer is enclosed, but it’s 350mm cubed and the enclosure consists solely of acrylic panels. I have an under bed filter and two additional bed fans. This gets my chamber to 53 °C after an hour of preheating. I am strongly considering swapping to ACM panels and adding a layer of internal radiant insulation. I have the materials, just haven’t spent the time to do it yet.
How hot does your Qidi chamber get?
I imagine there is a ceiling as to how large an ASA part you can print, but I hope this isn’t it.
- Comment on I've got a mix of good, bad, good, bad, and good again news/progress 3 days ago:
Thanks for the reply. I have a z end stop and use z_calibrate to automatically set offset. I may have printed a small part on my my bed magnet once…
My issue was not adhesion with the metal build plate, it was the print warping and taking the build plate with it (look at pic again, the build plate is lifted about 1" on both ends).
I could try taping the build plate down, but that would probably just move the failure point elsewhere…
- Comment on I've got a mix of good, bad, good, bad, and good again news/progress 3 days ago:
Do you think this is something I could combat with higher chamber temps? I’ve been putting off swapping my acrylic panels for ACM and installing radiant insulation, but if it will help…
Using my hot end thermometer as a chamber thermocouple (hot end fan on high), 75mm above the bed and in the centerish it looks like I’m hitting around 50 °C after 45 minutes or so. I doubt it’s getting much hotter in there.
My bed is already fairly low at 100 °C, but I could try 95 °C after the first layer as you said. I can also lower my extruder temp some, but ambient is still going to be way cooler than the plastic coming out of the hot end.
- Comment on I've got a mix of good, bad, good, bad, and good again news/progress 3 days ago:
Do you mean you print with a layer of kapton directly on the magnet? I could try that, i do have a roll of kapton tape…
- Comment on Heart Shaped Container FreeCAD Tutorial 3 days ago:
Mistakes are how we learn. What learnings have you made? What process did you take to get there? That would be worth writing down for others.
We tend to focus too much on “this is how I succeeded in <thing>” and don’t talk about all the false starts along the way that taught the skills to succeed.
- Submitted 3 days ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 10 comments
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
Thanks for the reply. I haven’t had clogging issues with it, but I have had some whispy stringing until I lowered my temp a touch. My preferred filament house (Atomic Filament) looks like they’re offering ASA so maybe I’ll give them a shot. My biggest issue is warping and I can’t imagine that other brands are going to be that different. I finally got great bed plate adhesion but my last print pulled the magnetic surface up.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
I think I found what was happening. Z hop was off and as the nozzle traveled at warp speeds over the print it was touching the prior layer ever so slightly. I think it snagged the infill in this print. Trying again with a hotter extruder and z-hop on.
It’s printing in an acrylic enclosed Voron 2.4. Zero warping.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
What kinds of problems have you had? It’s been OK for me. Sure, it’s harder to print than PETG but it’s also ASA. I do find myself wondering if it’s the material or my setup at times though. So far I’ve run about 7 kg of the stuff. You can find a bunch of it in my post history.
What did you switch to?
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
EM means extrusion multiplier, which is also called flow in some slicers. Shiny vs not is usually a temperature thing.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
@Dettweiler42@lemmy.world, replying to you as well here.
This is a hardened steel nozzle. 260 looked a little rough, but 255 looks pretty good. The temp tower got knocked off the bed at 235. It does look like I’ll need to bump cooling a touch. Currently working on a retraction tower.
If stringing is a problem consider increasing the speed of your filament retraction (not distance)
I’ll have to give this a go after this retraction tower prints. On the last one I printed there was basically no difference on any of the settings once it got above 0.2mm of retraction. In my time with the rapido, any filament left in the nozzle will ooze out if its left hot but it doesn’t string that badly.
You may also want to turn off z-hop. Sounds wild I know, but it does help- by not lifting the nozzle during a rapid move, it “wipes” the nozzle clean as it moves off the part and reduces stringing. Realistically you shouldn’t use z-hop at all unless you have a part with a very small cross section that keeps falling over when the nozzle wipes across it.
Yup, I’ve run into this realization too - that’s part of the reason why I was thinking to have z-hop on for this print
Which ofc, the big print I see in the photo looks like it will have zero stability problems, lol.
Adding two more bed fans, for a total of 4 (2 loose bed fans, 2 fans in my filter) and getting a bang on first layer (yay klipper_z_calibration) seem to have really helped with warping. I do have some ACM panels that I want to swap on to bump chamber temps up more, but I haven’t taken the time to print new magnetic inserts for them yet.
Knock on wood…
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
Polymaker ASA is what I’m currently using. You can grab 3 KG spools on Amazon for as low as $50-60 depending on the color (new via prime) if you keep an eye out.
The mix of ASA and a higher flow printer as resulted in a lot more fickle prints though, but this is also true for PETG. Things like EM vary some as a function of speed, so I’ve found that I need to print all my features at a similar speed.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
Bah, I typoed. I’m running 250 first layer/240 following layers, which is still lower than what most usually recommend. I was running 235 pretty consistently previously. I’ll have to try printing a temp tower with the bigger nozzle. Here’s one from the 0.4mm nozzle, granted also with my prior Rapido 1 (RIP).
Below 230 or so, layer adhesion was pretty poor
Above 245 or so, I started getting a lot of very fine/wispy stringing. It basically looked like ultrafine thread and would get itself stuck in my hot end fans.
You will then also need more part cooling fan as there is more plastic bulk to be cooling.
Thanks to somewhat low chamber temps (350mm^3 printer with only acrylic panels), I’ve been keeping cooling somewhat low. I recently added some more bed fans to help my bed filter out, so maybe I can try a bit more if it starts becoming an issue.
- Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti 1 week ago:
I’ve had a few smaller prints go off without any problems, but could always give something a little taller a go just to be safe.
- Comment on Question about printing times 1 week ago:
You mean travel speed is slower in those curved areas? Perhaps it’s due to an overhang.
Are you slicing the parts flat or are they standing up?
- Submitted 1 week ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 21 comments
- Submitted 1 week ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 0 comments
- Comment on Question about printing times 1 week ago:
I suspect what’s getting you is minimum layer time. In a nutshell, extruding very hot plastic onto a layer that was very recently extruded can result in a runny mess. Minimum layer time is intended to address this.
That said 131 hours seems a bit intense.
What’s your layer height? How good is your cooling? If you crank your fan, you might be able to decrease minimum layer time.
- Comment on (Troubleshooting) Filament runout detector not working. 2 weeks ago:
What kind of sensor is it? If it’s a switch type, you could try bypassing it and see if your printer detects open circuit/closed circuit correctly. If it doesn’t check the wiring.
- Comment on To failures in (basically) the exact same location eh? Correlation? I (hope) not! 4 weeks ago:
I’ll have to babysit the next print, or at least make sure I’m around for the 4 hour mark.
The question is whether I should change anything (speed, cooling) or just to just go as-is.
- Comment on To failures in (basically) the exact same location eh? Correlation? I (hope) not! 4 weeks ago:
Interesting. I generated the STL from fusion 360 and Orca didn’t say anything about a non-manifold print. The rest of the layers look normal in orca, but maybe I should check a gcode viewer too…
- Comment on To failures in (basically) the exact same location eh? Correlation? I (hope) not! 4 weeks ago:
Thanks! I was really hoping to find a smoking gun going through everything (like lots of retraction, something weird going on with temp, etc) and was somewhat disappointed to not find anything.
Do you think I’m drawing a false correlation with the jam always happening at the same feature type? The first failure was about 25 minutes into a short print on an internal bridge layer and both these failures happened on the exact same layer in basically the same spot? It doesn’t seem like a filament issue would be impacted by feature type. Random clogs, absolutely.
- Submitted 4 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 7 comments
- Comment on Shape optimized spoolholder 4 weeks ago:
Very cool!
Evidently nastran is headless. Did you use a GUI wrapper/interface? If yes, which one?
Final question: is this object the typical x wall thickness and y infill part? Did you happen to check the weight of a solid and optimized part? There’s no doubt in my mind that this would save mass if it was a solid part, but if it’s fairly hollow I wonder if the extra walls actually resulted in a heavier part.
- Comment on Why do Americans measure everything in cups? 4 weeks ago:
This isn’t about imperial vs metric, it’s about measuring by mass vs volume. A good example here is flour. Weighing out 30 grams (or about 1 ounce) of flour will always result in the same amount. On the other hand, you can densely pack flour into a 1/4 cup measuring cup, you can gingerly spoon it in little by little, or you can scoop and level. When you do this you’ll get three different amounts of flour, even though they all fill that 1/4 cup. Good luck consistently measuring from scoop to scoop even if you use the same method for each scoop.
- Comment on It fits! 5 weeks ago:
Tracing can work, but it’s a little fickle too. In this case the part had a small radius on its face. There’s also the whole pencil lead has width thing, but it can work OK if you’re very intentional at keeping the pencil tip pointing at the part in question.
Flatbed scanners also work fairly well, but they’re focused at the glass height and you quickly lose detail if the parts have a radius on them.
- Comment on It fits! 5 weeks ago:
I appreciate the detailed reply! If anything, someone reading it will learn something. It’s always amusing trying to make nice fitting sockets for random electrical parts. Sometimes the dimensions make a lot of sense. Other times they feel very random, which is surprising given that basically all these parts are probably modeled in CAD.
- Comment on It fits! 5 weeks ago:
I appreciate the reply. You described my usual process, but the dimensions on this thing are very not-round.
So are you saying you traced a photo, then printed multiple parts to get a trial-and-error fit? And you’re trying to fit the blue part around the black part?
Yup!
That seems extremely time consuming and wasteful. 3d printing lets you work this way but you’ll get better results by planning out the part more carefully from the start.
For simpler shapes, I agree with you. That’s exactly what I do usually and I’m pretty good at getting things on the first shot with a pair of calipers and a radius gauge. I do not have convex radius gauges, but I guess I could have printed some. This thing has… very arbitrary dimensions (it’s 23.22mm tall on a pair of mitutoyo calipers - I doubt I’m off by the 0.03 to make it a nice round 23.25). Even if it really does have 0.25mm dimensions, that would make me want to avoid guessing radii. I also wasn’t sure how to guess at locating the bump out for the screw holes accurately. In either case, I would be iterating a few times to get a snug fit.
they look like they could be the same as the screw tab radius.
They’re not :(
An important piece of info here is that those compound curves are usually just simple circular radii
They are!
People working in CAD software very rarely go to finer adjustments than that for superficial details like this, so it’s usually easy to find the numbers they used.
Normally I agree with this, but the dimensions on this part are super goofy. I’ve seen this on a few other random China parts, but it is pretty uncommon.
That seems extremely time consuming and wasteful. 3d printing lets you work this way but you’ll get better results by planning out the part more carefully from the start.
I figured I would have to iterate either way and suspect I did less iterating this way than trying to guess radii. The time commitment wasn’t that large, and would have been similar in either case. As for plastic, each test piece weighs 10 grams and I went through four total, including this one. Nearly all my prints are functional, or they’re fixing broken kid toys (I guess this is functional too), so I’m not too worried about the small amount of waste.