IMALlama
@IMALlama@lemmy.world
- Comment on Your TV Is Spying On You 6 days ago:
We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it’s not worth the expensive or all the modern “features” such as these.
- Comment on Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds 1 week ago:
I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you’re going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.
If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.
- Comment on Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds 1 week ago:
$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm^3 for build volume and 500mm^3 rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.
That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn’t that useful for big prints IMO. You’re probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you’re probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That’s the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with “only” a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.
- Comment on New God tier filament for me 1 week ago:
These units are somewhat silly IMO. It all comes down to volumetric flow. Big nozzle + thick extrusions + thick layers would probably mean needing to print slower than that speed due to the ability of a hot end to melt the filament.
/ someone who has been mm^3/s constrained for a while now
- Comment on Keeping Snap And Crackle Under Control With Prunt Printer Firmware 1 week ago:
For quite some time now, Marlin has been the firmware of choice for any kind of custom 3D printer, with only Klipper offering some serious competition in the open-source world
Confused Voron noises
- Comment on (Phalaenopsis-) Orchid repotting advice needed 1 week ago:
That seems like a lot of damage for one week, but I guess anything is possible.
In general, plants don’t like sudden changes to their environment. That’s why you should gradually introduce indoor plants to sunlight if you move them outdoors - you’ll give them sunburn. I suspect the same is true for roots. I keep my orchids in bark and let them dry out some between waterings. I suspect if their roots were suddenly moist 24/7 they wouldn’t be too happy about it.
I hate to link reddit, but more info found here
- Comment on How do I go about using/having printed purchased files off Etsy? How safe is it? 2 weeks ago:
1 and 5: Either should be fine, especially if the seller is reputable and has reviews. Many sells will have a store on multiple sites, but in some cases people will resell other people’s work. See if you can track down the original creator to support them 2: I suspect everyone will want STLs they won’t have to do any processing on. What do I mean? Well, I could give you a STL for a piece that’s massively too large and would need to be split into pieces or a different STL that will be impossible to print well. I suspect print services won’t want to deal with this, will charge for it, and/or you might not be happy with the final outcome 3: If you’re paying someone to print the parts, they will likely have larger format printers. However, this might cost some $$ 5: It depends how thick the designs are and how strong you want them to be (more perimeters = stronger), but keep in mind that you’re also paying for machine time and potentially processing (eg surface finishing, support removal, etc). To get a feel for a quote without buying this design, find some cosplay armor on something like printables and use that for quotes
- Comment on New Court Order in Stratasys v. Bambu Lab Lawsuit 2 weeks ago:
I had no idea this was even going on, so that’s a potential plus.
Stratasys filed the two lawsuits against Bambu Lab in the Eastern District of Texas, Marshall Division, in August 2024. The company claims that Bambu Lab’s X1C, X1E, P1S, P1P, A1, and A1 mini 3D printers violate ten of its patents. These patents cover common 3D printing features, including purge towers, heated build plates, tool head force detection, and networking capabilities.
I had heard that Stratasys was a bit of a patent troll, but some of those claims are news to me.
- Comment on 3D Printer Simulator could take the guesswork out of printing — Virtual 3D printer mirrors physical machine's quirks, like stringing, supports multi-color printing 2 weeks ago:
Can confirm, klipper does this too. Sincerely, someone who had a few thermistor related wire breaks.
- Comment on 3D Printer Simulator could take the guesswork out of printing — Virtual 3D printer mirrors physical machine's quirks, like stringing, supports multi-color printing 2 weeks ago:
Adding encoders to your steppers, or buying stepper motors with built in encoders, can help a lot but it’s not a cheap solution. It can also be a bit bulky, so packaging them a printer not designed for them can be tricky.
- Comment on Threaded Insert Press Is 100% 3D Printed 2 weeks ago:
I also free hand. Every once in a while I wish they were more perfectly square, but then I realize I don’t actually care enough to print a fixture and have to deal with attaching/detaching my Weller.
- Comment on Is a Voron 3D printer worth it?? 3 weeks ago:
I suggest checking out this post. I have quite a few replies about the voron experience.
TL;DR - agree that a Voron can be a start and walk away printer. Building it will take some time, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing but know what you’re getting into. It will take some configuration and tuning to get it printing, but the Voron initial setup guide and Ellis’s print tuning guide are very easy to follow.
- Comment on Canadian Wildfires signal major L over the United States 3 weeks ago:
I was wondering why our clear skies the past few days looked like they had a layer of lake effect cloud cover. This also explains that.
- Comment on I designed and made a thing! 3 weeks ago:
Nice work!
One of the interesting things about modeling and then printing replacement parts is figuring out which features matter (like shaft diameters and spacing in this design) and which you can take some liberties with to make printing easier. For example, for the part on the left you may have been able to add tapered feature to the rod insider to let you print the part standing on the flat bit on the far left without any supports. Another possibility might be trying to get the part to lie lengthwise by modifying the cylinder some as arced parts have deceivingly big overhangs. Perhaps you could give it a small flat spot.
- Comment on Certain dishes like Curries and fried rice keep getting better with age, until they don't. 3 weeks ago:
Lead with a shower then have a clean bath?
- Comment on WHERE ARE MY PRECISION SCREWDRIVERS 4 weeks ago:
You’re right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn’t stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you’re out of luck.
- Comment on 3D Print ABS Without A Screaming Hot Bed 4 weeks ago:
The challenge with ASA and ABS re:warping is chamber temps, not so much bed temperature. Both shrink pretty significantly compared to PLA and if your chamber is too cool and/or your print is too big or has difficult geometry you’re going to be in for a rough time.
- Comment on I designed and made a thing! 4 weeks ago:
I’ve lived at this latitude in a couple different states. From what I’ve experienced, the climate in the mid west is similar to that of PA, NY, NJ, CT, RI, etc. Snowfall changes vary radically based on your proximity to a lake and generally speaking anything west of PA is super flat.
To me, the nice thing about SE MI is it the size of the metro and the quantity of things to do within it. The people are also a bit more friendly than the east coast, which is nice too.
- Comment on I designed and made a thing! 4 weeks ago:
The fence is about 6.5 feet tall and seems to keep deer out pretty well. Our garden is near a creek that deer like to walk along, but I’ve never caught a deer in our garden if I remember to put all the gates on.
- Comment on I designed and made a thing! 4 weeks ago:
Printing things at a 45 degree angle is a magic cheat code for tons of overhangs. It can also help give your prints more resolution as most designs tend to not care if the “tall” layers are diagonally oriented.
- Comment on I designed and made a thing! 4 weeks ago:
This is ASA. I’ve had some PLA+ parts that have been outside for 7-8 years and are holding up really well. The old books were PETG and were still in pretty good shape after 3 full seasons and had to flex pretty often.
Granted, I live in SE MI so our sun isn’t super duper intense.
And totally agree, once you get in the mode of “I can print something to make this better” you start finding more and more things to make.
- Submitted 4 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 17 comments
- Comment on Interesting freckles on an orchid flower 4 weeks ago:
It’s just the one flower, so I’m not going to worry about it. The plant does get hosed down from time to time, so it could be water droplet sunburn.
The colors are probably off because the plant was horribly backlit for the photo, so I did some quick/dirty phone image manipulation to have the flowers be less muted.
- Submitted 4 weeks ago to houseplants@mander.xyz | 2 comments
- Comment on If you had $1500 to spend 5 weeks ago:
I would send them an email. Depending on which kit you’re talking about they could probably figure something out or give you an ETA.
- Comment on In 2025, Apple still makes it hard to play your own MP3s, so I wrote my own app 5 weeks ago:
There are some Linux users with iPhones, perhaps that’s what they meant?
- Comment on Windows 11 users reportedly losing data due to Microsoft's forcedWindows 11 users reportedly losing data due to Microsoft's forced BitLocker encryption 1 month ago:
Apple is almost the tale of two companies.
From the software usability perspective, they have the “it just works” reputation and that might be true if you’re doing really basic stuff. I’ve found both windows and Linux to be much more user friendly if you want to do mildly advanced things.
Their hardware is generally pretty solid but comes at a premium, especially once you start talking about increasing RAM/SSD capacity. I have both a MacBook pro M3 pro and a Snapdragon X Elite Lenovo Yoga slim 7x. The 7x can give great battery life, but is much more inconsistent in doing so. On the other hand, the 7x has an amszing 3k OLED screen, has a removable m3 SSD, and you can upgrade to 32 GB of RAM for around $100.
What I find interesting is that a large swath of developers have macs. I get it for some use cases (ARM emulation on ARM vs doing it on x86), but it seems like it’s a bit of a status symbol for others.
- Comment on If you had $1500 to spend 1 month ago:
Speed
Print duration is dependent on two components:
- How fast is your print head moving? I run velocities/accelerations similar to you partially because I have a 350 which is pushing the limits of 2020 extrusion and 6mm a/b belts as well as…
- How much filament you’re laying as the print head moves. This is influenced by your nozzle diameter, which in turn influences what kind of line width and layer height you can expect. It’s also influenced your extruder’s ability to melt plastic (eg volumetric flow). For ASA/ABS I limit volumetric flow to 35 mm^3/sec, or PLA I limit to 25 mm^3/sec, and for PETG I limit to 20 mm^3/sec
My print speed is often limited by volumetric flow - not the actual speed of my print head, so I haven’t bothered chasing higher ceilings. Granted, tend to print I print large/chunky/functional things so my goal is to lay down as much material as possible. If you’re chasing lots of fine detail, a smaller Voron can go faster than what I have but isn’t going to be that much faster than where you are now.
Print Quality
Thanks to a combination of CoreXY (rigidity) and Klipper (pressure advance, input shaping), I have basically zero ringing/ghosting show up in prints. It is worth talking about quality expectations though. Harsh lighting can reveal that layer lines are not perfectly aligned layer to layer. Not sure if this is a Voron thing or is it’s just more obvious now that my layers are a lot more noise free.
First layer
Automated gantry leveling (Klipper will get the bed and gantry to be ‘perfectly’ in plane thanks to 2.4s being able to mechanically move the four corners of the gantry independently - trident does similar, but moves the bed instead), a klicky probe and a Z calibration macro, and bed mesh make my first layers extremely consistent print to print.
One caveat: because the printer is enclosed and big (if you go for a 350), if you print sequential objects without letting the printer fully heat soak, the first layer will progressively get a touch higher and higher between prints as the printer expands in the z-axis.
- Comment on If you had $1500 to spend 1 month ago:
I replied to another post with a list of mods, so take a look at the other comments in the post for some out of box mods.
As a 350 owner, be aware of two things.
First, big bed = big chamber = heat soak takes a while and you have a lot more surface area to lose heat from. If you want to print big ABS/ASA parts you’re going to want ACM panels, a better sealed/insulated front door, and potentially a radiant layer inside the printer.
Second, the big printer limits your rate of acceleration some compared to a smaller CoreXY. IMO if you have a big printer to print big things you’re probably not going to have small/finely detailed parts that often. Those are the kinds of parts that will go a touch slower. But honestly 5k acceleration is orders of magnitude faster than most bed slingers can achieve and 10-15k is only a 2-3x increase so you’re not giving up that much.
Other than than, no regrets about the 350.
- Comment on If you had $1500 to spend 1 month ago:
I assume you mean “what mods do I recommend out of the box”?
- Klicky. I personally think tap adds too much mass and klicky is great
- Magnetic panel clips to make it way easier/faster to get the panels on/off
- An under bed filter with carbon. I’m using “the filter”. Even if you’re not going to print ASA/ABS the extra chamber heat helps eliminate warping on large PETG parts s
- If you’re going to be going to be building a larger printer and print ASA/ABS skip to ACM panels. Also do #5
- The fridge door is so much nicer than the stock double doors, but isn’t something you need to do out of the box
- You’re probably going to run into wire breaks in the cable chains - especially the x and y chains. An umbilical makes that much more unlikely. You don’t have to have to USB or CAN to do this
… Off the top of my head, those are the big ones
