IMALlama
@IMALlama@lemmy.world
- Comment on Thermometers reading different temperatures on cold printer? 37 minutes ago:
They’re 104nt’s. I have never calibrated a thermistor for one of my printers before, other than updating the firmware (compile marlin, config Klipper) and choosing the appropriate value.
I did dig up a datasheet for the thermistor, will have to check resistance tonight.
- Submitted 1 hour ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 2 comments
- Comment on My personal benchy: this one really tests a printer's capabilities 11 hours ago:
Was going to make the same recommendation!
- Comment on Help me identify a filament's material 11 hours ago:
It might be TPU too. I’ve used it to print function tires and the random deformable fidget.
- Comment on Any recommendations for a low-cost, low-hassle printer? 11 hours ago:
You could buy a large PEI sheet in sticker form and put it directly on your glass bed. Removal with a razor shouldn’t be difficult.
Is your bed heated? If yes, prints will stick well to the PEI when it’s hot and pop off when it’s cooled down. I have an ultrabase glass bed on my i3 clone and that’s exactly how it works there. I also gave a similar experience with my Voron with a PEI coated spring steel bed.
If your bed is unheated you might still be in hard mode.
As a final thought, go hot and slow for you first layer. I usually bump my first layer by 5-10 °C, depending on the material, and print it at 30-40 mm/sec. Even though I could probably go faster I’ll take consistently in my first layer.
- Comment on Help Replicating a filter 2 days ago:
That’s a lot of retractions. What is this filtering? Maybe you could print a more open structure and line it in mesh?
Also, where is this part in relation to chlorine? I can’t imagine a printed part would hold up very well in high chlorine concentrations, but PETG is fairly inert…
- Comment on Octoeverywhere 90 days free perks 3 days ago:
Klipper (firmware), mainsail (Web interface), obico (for failure det action) and some others. I can see why some would appreciate having a more turnkey option, but I agree with you that Klipper and mainsail make for a great pairing.
- Comment on Just started printing with ABS.... 3 days ago:
ASA is a bit more audible than PETG, but PETG prints would also become very lose once my bed was cooled down.
- Comment on Update on Menippus planter 6 days ago:
You’re saying ABS is printing easier for you than ASA? That’s interesting. From my limited understanding, ASA has the reputation of being easier to print.
What brands/blends? I’ve been printing basically only ASA and PETG for a little while now. Haven’t tried ABS.
- Comment on New Additions! 1 week ago:
Do you live in a warmer climate and/or have radiator heat? From what I’ve read, carneverous plants like higher humidity and Midwest winters + forced air make for a pretty dry house.
Also, be careful with bottled water. They all have some level of minerals in them to get their flavor profile. That said, if you’ve been doing this for any period of time carry on!
- Comment on Aptera completes low-speed drive in its first production-intent solar electric vehicle 2 weeks ago:
Find people who care about what they’re working on and they’ll go well beyond the extra mile. As an extra motivator, make it clear the company won’t be around if they don’t succeed. I’m sure these employees have shares, but tha only really matters if the company succeeds (extra motivation!). Unfortunately, there have been a ton of green/green-adjacent automotive “startups” that have struggled to gain a foothold. See also:
(I’m sure many others)
- Comment on Printing Height Limit 4 weeks ago:
Is the print stopping or does the printer keep going like all is well?
If the printer is continuing like everything is normal, you can surmise that the issue is either the heater, the extruder, or the filament path.
What does your temp graph look like during the print? Oscillations = potential wiring issue, especially if they’re not present for the whole print.
Have you caught the printer doing this? Is the extruder clicking? If yes, something is preventing the filament from moving through the extruder. You’re either developing a clog or something is preventing the filament from feeding (binding, etc).
If the extruder isn’t clicking, and the print continues for a bit, does the extruder slowly chew through the filament? If yes, you probably need more tension on the feed screw. I would still suggest looking for souces of binding.
- Comment on More trustworthy than what's currently on the road 1 month ago:
The challenger/mustang/camaro pulled this off fairly well for a while. There have been others, like the Thunderbird, but they never sold well.
These days, if it’s not a crossover it seems like no one will buy it. I am blissfully unaware of interesting looking old SUVs, but surely one is out there. Maybe the bronco qualifies? Too bad it’s suffering from size and price inflation.
- Comment on How to fix this glass that is no longer in place? 1 month ago:
Ah, for some reason I thought the glass what was moving was the stationary side. I should have taken a better look at the photo. Thanks for the correction!
- Comment on How to fix this glass that is no longer in place? 1 month ago:
Largely agree with the others with one exception. Don’t put adhesive inside the channel. It will make future removal basically impossible.
Cut whatever adhesive you can see with a razor, slide the glass out of the channel, clean the channel and glass well, and then reinstall. Run a bead of silicone around the seam. It will be more than enough to hold the glass in place. That’s the same way stone countertops are installed - there usually isn’t glue between the countertop and the cabinets. The silicone/caulk beads are enough to hold it in place.
Things to keep in mind:
- it’s glass, so you’ll want to avoid bumping it into things. Put down thick towels/blankets in your work area and wherever you want to put it down. Be very wary of dinging the bottom on the floor/ceiling
- wear PPE. At a minimum leather shoes/boots, thicker pants that aren’t skin tight (no skinny jeans), long/heavy/baggy sleeves, leather work gloves, and safety glasses
- it’s going to be somewhat heavy. You could measure the panel size and plug it into an online calculator for a decent number. I suggest buying heavy duty suction cups that come with vacuum pumps. These will make moving the glass around a lot easier and they’re not that expensive
Good luck!
- Comment on Amazon tech workers leaving for other jobs in response to return to office mandate 1 month ago:
They did see it coming, this was the goal.
- Comment on I found a way to keep my chamber temps up for long/big ASA prints 1 month ago:
ASA and ABS are warp prone and this is an 11" / ~275mm wide print that’s equally tall 🤷
The build volume of my printer means lots of surface area for the acrylic enclosure, which in turn makes it hard for me to exceed a 50°C chamber temp, despite 4x bed fans.
The next print, with normal supports, pulled the bed off the magnetic build plate. Insulation eliminated warping and let me pull off the print.
I do agree that a “nicer” enclosure is the preferred method. I have zero issues with PETG at this size. I’ve never tried PLA on this printer, but it should be fine too.
- Comment on Recommendations other than Bambu and Prusa? 1 month ago:
I will second this, even though I also agreed with “build a Voron”. My 2.4 is a massively capable printer, and has a lot of quality of life features like actual mechanical bed leveling, but odds are your first build will have some teething issues. My extruder motor didn’t have a fully aeat wire terminal in its factory harness so it extruded inconsistently. Thankfully it was easy to find and fix. I’ve had a few wire breaks in my cable chains because I didn’t leave enough slack in the runs. The build itself is also long, but I did find it to be straightforward. Vorons are also Vorons, so the modding is endless.
Printer as a tool? Prusa. Maybe also Voron, especially if you want print volume/raw speed/quality of life. Printer as a tinkering device? Voron. Ship of theseus as you upgrade your way to a better printer? Ender.
- Comment on Recommendations other than Bambu and Prusa? 1 month ago:
Haha, came here to say the same thing.
- Comment on The humble Anet A8 isn't actually that bad if you just take some insipiration from the Ship of Theseus 1 month ago:
Looks pretty cool. The frame reminds me a bit of a piper. Is this home brew?
- Comment on 10 Things to do after installing Lychee! 1 month ago:
TIL there’s a slicer called Lychee Slicer.
Sounds like a hot mess. Are you looking for a alternative? If yes, provide info but my off the cuff recommendation for a FDM printer is Orca Slicer.
- Comment on Not too bad for my first ever try with TPU 1 month ago:
On my direct drive Voron I could make it through retraction tower test prints fine with TPU, but it would always jam with retraction enabled on longer prints with my usual 0.3mm. Pulling apart the extruder would always reveal some TPU had gotten wrapped around the drive gear. Rather than try tuning until the failure went away, I just went with 0 lol.
- Comment on What the heck is wrong with my succulent? 1 month ago:
Some succulents grow in such… seemingly unsustainable ways for the mother plant. I guess ultimately these are all some kind of propagation strategy for the plant though.
Alloe will overground their pots with tons of babies and fall over when they get too big.
Our big jade will intentionally dry out the center of some of its smaller branches to make the ends of the branch fall off in hopes of rooting.
I guess this is why the plants have been successful. It does make for some level of struggle as a house plant though, lol.
- Comment on What the heck is wrong with my succulent? 1 month ago:
It looks like the answer is yes - you can grow a normal plant from each leaf!
- Comment on What the heck is wrong with my succulent? 1 month ago:
Not a succulent expert by any means, but the fact that it’s growing some air roots and the dropped leaves also are trying to root also seems to point to not enough water.
We have a big jade that will air root when it’s too dry. Before it gets to that point it’s leaves will look noticeably less plump.
Succulents do require watering, but it’s very important to not overdo it. Our Jade is probably only watered ever two months or so when it’s outside (on an east facing porch in zone 6) during the summer and even less frequently in the winter. I know it well enough to be able to eyeball the plant at this point.
- Comment on Setting up a printer 2 months ago:
Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.
Suggestions:
Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions
Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.
Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?
- Comment on How to mount a 3d print to a motor axis? 2 months ago:
That you’re looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with “2mm flange mount” you’ll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you’ll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you’re not looking at big loads.
- Comment on Should I distill IPA (isopropanol alcohol) at home for 3D-printing? 2 months ago:
They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren’t even disposong of them correctly most of the time
This is what really gets me with resin printing :(
- Comment on Advice choosing my next 3d printer 2 months ago:
Aluminum’s expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let’s say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That’s in total, so the effect at the print head isn’t 0.35mm, but let’s say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That’s 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.
- Comment on Advice choosing my next 3d printer 2 months ago:
2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.
Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08
I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).
Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset
Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.
That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.
