3D Print ABS Without A Screaming Hot Bed

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• IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

  The challenge with ASA and ABS re:warping is chamber temps, not so much bed temperature. Both shrink pretty significantly compared to PLA and if your chamber is too cool and/or your print is too big or has difficult geometry you’re going to be in for a rough time.

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  • otter@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

    I’m curious about ASA & PTU currently, and looking into best practices (began my printing journey in 2018 w/ a Mk1S & a Phrozen Mini duo) before jumping in, so this is helpful info, thank you (& OP, et al). 🤓

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    • FleetingTit@feddit.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago

      No one answered so I will:

      Have an enclosed printer! You won’t be able to print anything larger than a couple of cm otherwise. Also make sure to not have air gaps, any cold air getting in can potentially lift up a corner.

      You need a good first layer, even more so than with PLA. Have it squish a little more so that it sticks to the build plate like crazy.

      Preheat your chamber passively with the bed. With my enclosed Ender 3 I did 10 minutes before large prints.

      High bed temps: you might get away with 90°C at the lowest but 100°C is recommended.

      When a print starts to lift off the build plate there’s no fixing it. Either you’re fine with the warp (and some squished layers/deformation) or you have to restart the print. No way to sugar-coat this.

      Turn down part cooling as much as your overhangs allow, though with a hot enough chamber you might get away with “a lot” of cooling.

      Print with brim or adhesion tabs! Mind the geometry of your part: models with tall walls will tend to warp more.

      Tl;dr: printing ABS can be cruel, but it rewards you with strong, light parts that stay in shape even at high ambient temps like a car interior.

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