Is a Voron 3D printer worth it??

Comments

• FleetingTit@feddit.org ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  If you buy a Voron you need to be aware that everything the printer does it does because of YOU!

  Any problems that arise will be due to misconfiguration, bad assembly, no proper tuning… But when you get it to print amazing results that is YOUR accomplishment.

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  • Fortatech@gregtech.eu ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    I’ll keep that in mind.

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• lpinfinity@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  The reliability is largely dependent on how well it’s built. I have a 0.2 and a 2.4 and both have been quite reliable overall, but I did have some issues with my 2.4 recently where the frame came out of alignment (I didn’t tighten the screws enough when I built it), so my z axis belts became too loose. Assuming this will be the only capable printer you have access to, I would highly recommend printing spares of the more critical parts once you have it running. Otherwise, a catastrophic failure could lead to weeks of downtime while you try to source new parts.

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  • Fortatech@gregtech.eu ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Good point, thanks!

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• illegible@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Voron 2.4 and a Bambu here. My voron is rock solid at this point, but definitely more work into it. It’s big and warming up the plate definitely makes me less likely to use it over the Bambu. I’ve learned more about everything from the voron though, so the question is, what’s your goal?

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• Fribbtastic@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  It was definitely worth it for me.

  I previously had a Ender 3v2 and an Ender 5 Plus and the E5P had constant issues in which I tried to upgrade it step by step to address those issues. However, never really could fix all of them. The last issues I just gave up on was the bed. While it worked fine, I never really could get a good first layer on the bed, when I calibrated the Z-offset correctly on one side, it wasn’t good on the other side because the nozzle was too far away from the bed. I rarely could get the bed mesh range under 0.4mm which was quite annoying. But smaller prints, it printed well.

  Last year in October, I decided to build a Voron and got the 2.4 LDO kit for 350mm. Took a bit of time to get it all assembled and some hiccups here and there but since it is up and running there is really only one issue that I haven’t quite figured out yet (the A motor sometimes doesn’t want to turn, after re-plugging the cable and restarting, it works without issues).

  But I could print PLA, ABS and ABS-GF on it so far. I am also currently building the Armor Turtle AFC (filament changer) for it.

  But 770€ for a 250mm V2.4 sounds very low to me so I would assume that it is 2nd hand. This could be fine but keep in mind that the printer also could have issues, issues you might not know about where they would be coming from because you simply bought the machine as a whole. So, identifying the problem could be a bit annoying.

  Other than that, I am really happy with mine, I usually get 0.1mm difference in the bed mesh range (running a voron tap as probe), the print speed is great (but I also didn’t optimise it and just used the speed settings from the default profile in Orca Slicer)

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• IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  I suggest checking out this post. I have quite a few replies about the voron experience.

  TL;DR - agree that a Voron can be a start and walk away printer. Building it will take some time, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing but know what you’re getting into. It will take some configuration and tuning to get it printing, but the Voron initial setup guide and Ellis’s print tuning guide are very easy to follow.

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• wjrii@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  I just got a Sovol SV08, which is like a Voron but changed up a bit so the teacher doesn’t get mad… and to be cheaper :-)

  I’m just coming in from an Ender3 clone, but overall, other than the potential of taco bed messing up some prints, I’ve been really pleased with it. I’m still fine tuning what it likes to do, including slowing it down on some small vertical prints, letting the bed “heat soak” for a while to even out, and running the Z Offset calibration on every print, but Core XY, auto leveling, and all the other little QoL advantages are nice.

  For your specific printer, Vorons are generally even more kit built than most printers, sometimes even completely assembled from a BOM by the builder/user. If they did it well, and if it loks to be in good shape, it should be an excellent and well supported printer. I paid USD490 for “We have Voron at home” and I feel like it was a good deal. I’m not super well versed in pricing in Europe, but EUR770 seems like a good deal on a kit, a REALLY good deal on a new 350mm, and a very solid one for a used printer in good shape.

  Now, all that said, I am super glad that I kinda had some experience with more primitive printers before I got the Sovol. I’m less panicky about little inconveniences and realities of printing (especially on a budget), and I feel like I at some high level understand how it’s all supposed to be working and that I can look up how to fix things and implement what I learn. If you don’t want to deal with any of that, a Bambu, even with its potential walled garden “sword of Damocles”, might be a simpler idea.I understand they really are just super easy to live with.

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  • Fortatech@gregtech.eu ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Thanks! Actually, i have got some experience with 3D printing already, and I don’t mind fiddling with the printer and assembling it, so I’ll probably steer clear of Bambulab. Actually, I just searched the Sovol up, and it looks really similar to the V2.4, just like 300€ cheaper, but how is it different from the V2.4? Actually, now I’m tempted to buy the SV08.

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    • wjrii@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      I know the beds are worse, apparently almost all of them. Sovol chose to change the Voron reference design to be cheaper and it’s just not held down right, so they exhibit beating degrees of “taco” a way inconsistency that the diagram accentuates visually. Mine has a corner that seems to be about 0.4mm too high, and the rest is a bit wavy to lesser amounts. This is the main reason I set it to redo its z offsets before every print.

      The Sovol doesn’t use standard extrusion profiles so it’s less moddable, it’s hot end is not completely standard, and it uses injection molded parts in places the Voron uses 3d printed parts (that last may be be an advantage, lol). The Sovol also doesn’t run a completely clean version of Klipper. I think it’s set in a way to make it work a little better with their cheaper BOM.

      It’s big and fast and Voron-like, but it’s just not a hand crafted super printer like a Voron can be.

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• BOFH666@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  I love mine. Always fire and forget printing. My 2.4 has a chaotic lab tap, never any issues.

  Printing with abs, petg and pla never fails. Quite a learning curve, but well worth it.

  If you are not afraid to take it apart an reassemble, go for it.

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  • JustEnoughDucks@feddit.nl ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Does the 2.4 have auto z calibration? That is what really makes a “set and forget” machine when you switch nozzle sizes and such and it with auto adjust.

    With my prusa MK3, I calibrate the z offset every time I switch filaments and recalibrate every time I switch nozzles which takes a lot of active time.

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    • BOFH666@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      Mine does.

      Probably most of the builds do. But you got to keep in mind, every Voron is unique. It is not a 100-a-day from the factory kind of product.

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  • Fortatech@gregtech.eu ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Well, I’m quite happy to build and rebuild it, but wdym by learning curve?

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    • BOFH666@lemmy.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      Getting to know all the minor tweaks, the ins and outs of your device.

      Every Voron is unique, so digging up a yt to solve your issue is not going to help much.

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