Last week I had zero 3d printers, now I've got 3

Submitted ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

So earlier this week I found an Ender 3v2 at the dump and drug it home. It powers on fine and moves in the z and y axis but not x, I have a stepper motor from an old project that will fit I’m just waiting for a gear that uses set screws vs press fit.

A few days ago my daughter mentioned she wanted to get into 3d printing (coincidentally as I hadn’t told her about the dump printer) so today I bought an Ender 3v1, working, and an Ender 3v3 SE, not working for $80. The v1 is going to my daughter and probably the v2 as well once I’ve replaced the bad stepper and I’ll keep the v3 if I can fix it.

All that said, are there common problems with the v2 that I should look for after the stepper is replaced? I can’t believe that was the only issue that made someone trash it.

The v3 has the nebula smart kit and I guess freezes while booting, I read that I can reflash the firmware to get it working again but would it be worth sourcing an original screen and taking it back to stock?

Thank you

original

Comments

Sort:hotnew top

esc@piefed.social@piefed.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
That’s a hardcore throw into the hobby, e3v1 is one of the least easy to start ones.

original
- ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I’ll be sure to let my daughter know that, I think she’ll be ok though, she’s a computer science major and has a decent mechanical aptitude.
  
  original
  - unexposedhazard@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    In return it is much more moddable than the “easy” ones.
    
    original
    -> View More Comments
  - JohnEdwa@sopuli.xyz ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Ender 3v1 is like a project car. Terrible choice if you just want a reliable daily driver to print models with, but an excellent start if you want your hobby to be 3d printers itself.
    
    original
    -> View More Comments
Archimedes@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
At this rate in one year you’ll have about 150 printers

original
- ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  It’ll probably be somewhere between there and 3.
  
  original
it_depends_man@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I don’t know much about 3d printing, so disclaimer. The modern printers are very much built on open source so it shouldn’t matter too much which screen you use.

I have also not done a firmware flash myself yet, but doing that sounds plausible to me.

I can’t believe that was the only issue that made someone trash it.

As you can see (and as you will see), it’s a bit tinkering leaning hobby, if someone doesn’t have the energy, patience, skill or motivation to learn, a broken part can be a major problem. I don’t think there are repair shops you can go to…

original
Sxan@piefed.zip ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
You’re one step away from a business selling re-lifed 3D printers.

original
- PriorityMotif@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  They could be making tens of dollars! But seriously used printers are essentially worthless.
  
  original
  - cmnybo@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    They will get a lot more valuable when the new ones are all locked down and won’t let you print any parts to fix your stuff.
    
    original
  - Sxan@piefed.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I mean, if þey’re getting ‘em for free, þeir costs are þeir time and parts. Given new printers are hundreds of dollars and up… I’m only 3D printing curious. I’d buy a used one in good condition. A new “budget” Elgoo is $350; anyþing more serious jumps you up to closer to a grand, and it’s up from þere.
    
    original
- ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  That’s an interesting idea but I don’t know if there’s a market for it where I’m at, we don’t have the best local economy.
  
  original
  - Sxan@piefed.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    If you’re finding repairable $300 (back when new) printers by dumpster diving, it can’t be þat bad.
    
    original
zorflieg@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I hear ya. My e3pro was starting to act up so I decided to finally upgrade to a Snapmaker U1, which is great. But once I didn’t have to worry about getting stuck not printing I went back and did a complete overhaul of the e3, Btt skr board (2nd hand) new build plate, direct drive conversion etc. now it’s working better than ever. Somewhere Long the line the old girl started under extruding by like 50%+ I don’t know how it was even working!

I do amazing prints on the U1 but I’m having more fun with the ender.

original
- ikidd@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Is that U1 entirely software agnositic? No chance of vendor lockin?
  
  original
  - EchoCranium@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Looks like the U1 runs under a modified version of Orca Slicer, probably to accommodate the 4-head print setup. Nothing is locked in right now, and nothing says you HAVE to upgrade the software or firmware. So long as the printer runs well and you’re fine with not getting newer features, leave it as is. I’m planning to order a U1 myself by the end of the year, it looks amazing.
    
    original
    -> View More Comments
- TheHotze@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I just upgraded from the e3pro to a U1! Maybe I will overhaul mine soon too.
  
  original
TootSweet@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
If you don’t have a CR touch on one or both of those, you desperately need to get one (or you’re unlikely to be able to use more than a tiny little spot in the middle of the bed without massive adhesion issues). And getting a CR touch will probably require upgrading the motherboard on your v1.

original
- osbo9991@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Idk. I’ve been using my ender 3 v1 without an ABL probe of any kind just fine. The main problems occur when the shitty stock buildplate (the super thin buildtak one held on with binder clips) warps under high heat and you have to contend with high spots. Getting a probe could have solved the problem, but I just swapped over to a magnetic spring steel PEI buildplate, and after a bit of live leveling, I’ve printed things using the full buildplate once or twice so far with proper adhesion throughout. The only thing that I needed to do to use that was to stick a magnetic sticker on the stock aluminum bed. If OP needs a link, this is the kit I bought: www.amazon.com/…/B07XBM24HN
  
  Would an ABL sensor be nice to have? Absolutely. But you can technically do without it if your buildplate isn’t warped and you are very good at live leveling.
  
  Oh, I also have the stiffer yellow springs installed, which helps the bed stay more level than the stock springs. That probably helps as well.
  
  original
  - PattyMcB@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Yeah… I spent years printing just fine on my Ender 3 v2 without any ABL. It’s just a matter of learning the art of manual leveling.
    
    original
ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I see your point on patience, the biggest reason I want to fix the v3 and let my daughter have the other two is automatic bed leveling. Doing it manually sounds like a chore.

original
fhein@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
First of all, flash the firmware and reset eeprom on your found printers. Previous owners might have disabled safety features.

Common e3v2 problems: frame not assembled with square angles. Invisible crack in the extruder arm. Flat spot on wheel. Gantry sag. Bed unleveling itself over time. Bed not flat (not an issue if you’re getting a probe)

original
- ChihuahuaOfDoom@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Thank you, I’ll look up the flashing process.
  
  original
BarneyPiccolo@lemmy.today ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
This is me with guitars.

original