fhein
@fhein@lemmy.world
- Comment on Sci-fi racing platformer Distance gets a surprise update with Steam Deck improvements 2 days ago:
Hooray, I can finally play it. Had it on my wish-list for years, when I finally bought it I found out that neither the native Linux or the Windows+Proton version was working.
- Comment on Common printing questions 3 days ago:
No and I hate it :( Even if there are a few legit review sites still around it’s near impossible to find them among all the fake reviews being pushed by search engines
- Comment on Is it practically impossible for a newcomer selfhost without using centralised services, and get DDOSed or hacked? 3 days ago:
A static website and Immich
- Comment on Where to Recycle Filament? 6 days ago:
Perhaps not helpful for most people, but Add:North offers recycling for PLA which you have bought from them.
- Comment on Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet 1 month ago:
Never bought any, but I was looking at this type of automatic extinguisher: firerescue.eu/…/1027-viper-car-automatic-extingui…
- Comment on The flowerbeds in front of my house could use some work. 3 months ago:
Soil not draining enough perhaps? Only way we’ve managed to kill lavender is by pruning it too much.
- Comment on The 3D Filament Tier List: Which Spools Rule? | Zack Freedman 3 months ago:
MyTechFun also has a lot of material tests, and while perhaps not ideal from a usability standpoint he posts detailed Excel sheets with all the data.
- Comment on Brick Layers: Could printing STRONG parts be so simple? 3 months ago:
Blog post with the same info, for people who don’t like watching videos.
- Comment on Christmas buying advice? 6 months ago:
I agree with half your statement :) There are other cheap brands that are just as bad as Creality, or possibly even worse.
- Comment on Klipper keeps deleting my Z offset instead of saving it 7 months ago:
Any possibility that you’ve accidentally modified something in the automatically generated part of the config, so its failing to read the saved value? Perhaps you could attach your entire printer.cfg?
- Comment on Wait, the ZimaCube has a private GPT implementation? 7 months ago:
There are tons of options for running LLMs locally nowadays, though none come close to GPT4 or Claude 2 etc. One place to start is /c/localllama@sh.itjust.works
- Comment on Marionette kinematics 7 months ago:
Works for me, looks like some kind of youtube wrapper. Here’s what I think is the original video www.youtube.com/watch?v=mf3gcrtaDSg
- Comment on Landing page for selfhosted services 8 months ago:
Static html+css page generated with this: github.com/maximtrp/tab
- Comment on Am I building a fire hazard? 8 months ago:
Or put the slab on top of foam rubber www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08v6PY_7ak
- Comment on Melting 3D Printed eReader cases on my deck. 9 months ago:
ASA seems like an easier-to-print alternative to ABS, afaik only downsides are higher cost and fewer colours to choose from. Supposedly possible to print ASA without enclosure.
- Comment on Any electroluminescent filaments for 3D printing? 9 months ago:
Yea, definitely keep a fire extinguisher nearby if you decide to do this experiment :) But on the other hand, one should probably already have one of those close to any 3d printer.
- Comment on Any electroluminescent filaments for 3D printing? 9 months ago:
One could try “printing” 1.3mm EL wire using a nozzle of similar diameter, low enough temperature to only melt its outer PVC layer, and thick layer height so that its core isn’t squished. And it would of course have to be vase mode… I’m not saying it would work, but it might be an interesting experiment.
- Comment on Question about Klipper and printer hardware. 9 months ago:
I would guess it ultimately depends on how much you’re interested in modding, fine-tuning settings and calibrating the printer to perfection. If you only want to load a model and hit “print” then I guess you wouldn’t notice much difference from just a mainboard swap. But since you’re about to install Klipper, you probably have some interest in spending time optimising your printer :)
I’ve upgraded a lot of things on my printer, but not got to the mainboard yet so it still has TMC2208 driver hardwired in stealthchop mode. I never got much out of pressure advance while the printer was still in bowden mode, even with a BMG extruder which is much stronger than the stock extruder… Can’t say if it would’ve turned out better with TMC2209 drivers, but after modding the printer to direct drive I have no issue with pressure advance. Now the main reason I want to upgrade mainboard some day is that I would like a 5:th driver so I can do proper dual Z.
And a general Klipper recommendation, in case this is the first time you try it out; Resonance compensation is like magic, and it works perfectly fine calibrating it manually (i.e. without buying an ADXL). After calibration, I could increase acceleration to 4000 without visible ringing. For reference the default acceleration for Ender-sized bed slingers is usually 500, which IIRC can be upped to about 700-900 before you start to get ringing… Not only does high acceleration make it print faster, but at least for me it had a bigger impact on corner quality than pressure advance ever had.
- Comment on Question about Klipper and printer hardware. 9 months ago:
From what I can find on search engines, the Aquila probably has a 32 bit board, so from a “processing” perspective I think it would be equivalent to the E3 Turbo.
It seems a bit unclear what kind of stepper drivers the Aquila has, but some posts I found claim it has clone TMC2208. I believe the E3 Turbo has TMC2209 which should be more powerful, and supposedly is better for pressure advance. You can search for “tmc2208 vs tmc2209” if you want more opinions on if it’s worth upgrading just for that.
I also believe the E3 Turbo will give you UART access to the stepper drivers. IIRC this allows you to configure each stepper motor for either stealthchop (less noise) or spreadcycle (more power) mode, so you could for example set the extruder stepper to spreadcycle.
The E3 Turbo has 5 stepper drivers while the Voxelab board only has 4, right? If you upgrade/mod your printer to dual Z it’s nice to have each stepper on their own driver, or if you rebuild the printer to IDEX, but otherwise there’s not much use for it.
- Comment on Where to start with a Volcano hotend? 10 months ago:
Could it be the Micro Swiss you’re thinking of? AFAIK it is ok, though a bit over priced. Personally I would stay away from the cheap clones you find on Amazon/Aliexpress/Wish as the quality can be a bit of a gamble. Other CR-10 compatible hotends that I’ve heard good things about include Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, Mellow NF Zone, Slice Copperhead. If you just want an all metal CR-10 style hotend I would get one either from Trianglelab or Mellow, who are known to have relatively good manufacturing quality. They’ve gone up quite a lot in price so they’re almost as expensive as a Micro Swiss. Best value option is probably to just buy a high quality all-metal heatbreak and reuse the cooler and heat block from the stock hotend, in case you still have those.
- Comment on Where to start with a Volcano hotend? 10 months ago:
I like Teaching Tech’s calibration guide.
And if you don’t mind me asking, where have you heard good things about volcano hotends, and what things specifically? Unfortunately it can be difficult to know who to trust nowadays as there’s a lot of affiliate links disguised as buying advice, paid “reviews”, and well meaning people who confidently repeat what they’ve heard without knowing anything about how true it is. Personally I’ve always thought of volcanoes as a niche item for increasing your print speed while potentially sacrificing some quality, but I’ve never used one myself so don’t trust me either :). Some people appear to be able to calibrate them properly but oozing seems like a very common problem. If you bought some random cheap hotend off amazon there’s definitely a risk that you got a dud, as you said.
- Comment on I should have checked this a long time ago... 10 months ago:
A lot of printers also heat the bed unevenly, so the temperature could be significantly higher in the centre of the build plate. This video shows it fairly well. You could try adding a few minutes delay to your start gcode after the printer thinks it’s reached the correct bed temp, to let it even out a little.
- Comment on Zoom/discord/twitch self hosted options 10 months ago:
github.com/miroslavpejic85/mirotalk might be an option. There’s both a server based version and a p2p version IIRC.
- Comment on For people self hosting LLMs.. I have a couple docker images I maintain 11 months ago:
Ah, nice.
Btw. perhaps you’d like to add:
build: .
to docker-compose.yml so you can just write “docker-compose build” instead of having to do it with a separate docker command. I would submit a PR for it but I have made a bunch of other changes to that file so it’s probably faster if you do it.
- Comment on For people self hosting LLMs.. I have a couple docker images I maintain 11 months ago:
Awesome work! Going to try out koboldcpp right away. Currently running llama.cpp in docker on my workstation because it would be such a mess to get cuda toolkit installed natively…
Out of curiosity, isn’t conda a bit redundant in docker since it already is an isolated environment?
- Comment on Ender 3 S1vs Kobra 2? 11 months ago:
Not sure I’d describe any printer Creality manufactured after 2019 as “solid” :) They have really shitty quality assurance, so it’s a bit of a gamble when buying anything from them.
I’d also take the “5x faster” claims from Anycubic’s marketing with a massive grain of salt, and I’m fairly sure you’ll get the same speeds on any printer that isn’t a just another clone of 5 year old designs. The Kobra 2 has a volcano style hotend, but if you buy a different printer and the hotends melt capacity is the limiting factor you can just put a CHT nozzle in it, either genuine from Bondtech or a high quality Chinese clone like Mellow or Trianglelab.
Not entirely sure how the LeviQ thingy on the Kobra 2 works, but if it is what I think it is, then it’ll automate the nozzle-probe distance (a.k.a. probe Z offset) calibration which is very nice. Having a probe automates the bed level compensation, but I’ve always found it somewhat annoying having to recalibrate the nozzle-probe distance every now and then.
Finding some mixed info regarding the type of hotend the Kobra 2 has… One review claiming that it is all-metal, while another saying it’s PTFE lined. If you’re only going to print PLA it doesn’t matter, but if you want to print filaments that require higher temps you might need to upgrade it.
Apart from the LeviQ I think these two printers and Sovol SV06 are very similar feature wise. The SV06 is one of the few cheap printers that come with all-metal hotend, but that’s usually a pretty easy upgrade on others.
- Submitted 11 months ago to selfhosted@lemmy.world | 54 comments
- Comment on The new $300 Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro 11 months ago:
First of all, I’m sorry to hear you’ve had a crappy experience with your printer, and I hope you have something that works better for you now. What you write does however align with what I’ve heard about this brand previously… The printer buying guide that I like to refer to has put Geeetech in the “hall of shame” category, with the following remark:
No quality control, useless customer support, offers paypal refunds to customers who leave 5 star reviews on their Amazon pages, offers to pay to have bad reviews deleted. Pays youtubers to lie about the machines.
- Comment on The new $300 Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro 11 months ago:
Last one I had had the heater cartridge die, the leveling sensor die and be too stupid to properly communicate via USB (a typo in the protocol meant that Octoprint was waiting for receive-confirmations). Together with terrible support which took literally the whole month I had the thing, to answer about the first issue (and not actually help).
Which printer was this? There’s ofc. always a risk involved when buying a cheap printer, but some brands are definitely worse than others.
- Comment on A question regarding the picking of a printer that fits my use case. 11 months ago:
Here’s my take on buying a cheap printer:
FDM 3D printers are high precision machinery, and there are many parts where a very minor flaw can have negative effects on print quality, or cause issues with first layer adhesion, clogs, etc. So when we’re looking at products made by various Chinese companies competing to make the cheapest product, one shouldn’t assume they’re all good enough. I mean it’s not like buying a hammer, which is difficult to screw up either during design, manufacture, or assembly :) There are definitely good stuff made in China, but you have to know what to look for and not pick randomly.
When it comes to printer designs, there is no company that consistently makes good printers. Most brands have a few good/decent models, and several bad/flawed ones. I.e. try to find a good printer model, not a good brand.
When it comes to quality assurance and support, there are definitely worse and better companies. For example Flashforge, Creality, Tevo and Geeetech are known to be lacking in both. This changes all the time, Creality used to be a good brand a few years ago and they largely live on their reputation. Likewise companies that make good printers right now might lower quality in the future in an attempt to increase profits.
With that said, most flawed printers can be fixed if you spend enough time and money on them, but if it’s your first printer it might be very difficult to know if you’re doing something wrong, or if something is wrong with the printer itself.
It’s also possible to got a flawed printer from any cheap Chinese brand, but you reduce the risk if avoiding the companies known for bad QA. It’s also a good idea to avoid Amazon if possible, because people return the flawed printers which are then repackaged to look like new and sold to some other unsuspecting customer.
If buying from Aliexpress, only buy from stores that have the brand name in the store name. Most brands have multiple stores but as long as they actually contain the name of the brand and have existed for a longer time they should be legit.
Since you mention Ender 3, afaik currently the only good one is the S1. Other models are kind of outdated, and all of them are overpriced compared to competitors, and as I mentioned previously it’s a bit of a gamble with quality assurance when you buy Creality.
I like this list of 3d printers for buying advice. It is maintained by people on the 3D Printing discord who have first hand experience with a lot of different models, and to my knowledge are less biased than for example youtubers that will often skew reviews in exchange for new printers, or even money, from manufacturers.