fhein

@fhein@lemmy.world

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Do NOT buy Creality⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago⁩:

  Creality made good printers in the beginning, i.e. original Ender and Ender Pro. They used high quality components and offered good value for money compared to what else what available at that time. However, when they had cornered a large part of the market and got known as the brand that made the best beginner printers, things started going downhill. They switched from Meanwell power supplies etc. to cheap noname components, quality control seemingly became non-existent, and they released several poorly designed overpriced printers (E.g. the E3v2 - my first printer - and everything with “max” in the name).

  I think there’s a combination of different reasons for why there always have been so many people who believe that Creality make good printers:

  1. People who have bought their Ender 3/Pro before 2020 actually have good printers, and give them honest praise on forums.
  2. Fake reviews on the internet, which hype up the product since their only goal is for you to click their amazon affiliate link and buy it.
  3. Creality paying content creators for positive reviews, including several well known and otherwise respected within the community.
  4. Buyers who got lucky with the QC and don’t own any other printers to compare with, might think their printers are the best.
  5. Buyers who are now happy with their Ender after having spent €100+ on “upgrades” and/or days of troubleshooting the printer. I’ve even seen a guy insist that an Ender is a better first printer than a cheaper more reliable alternative, because the 20 hours he spent on his Ender to get a decent print out of it gave him “an invaluable learning experience”.
  6. And I’ve also seen people who haven’t yet bought any printer claim that Enders are the best beginner printers, just because they’ve read that statement so many times they’ve come to accept it as a fact, and now they’re “helping” others looking for a first printer by answering their questions.

  I think my E3v2 is good now, but I’ve replaced the hotend, extruder and part cooling fans. I’ve added a second Z lead screw to fix gantry sag, and I found a manufacturing error where the X belt tensioner wasn’t straight because tightening the screw into the aluminium extrusion bent the plastic (difficult to find, but luckily easy to fix with a metal shim). I’ve replaced the firmware with Klipper, controlled by a Raspberry Pi. And I’ve probably spent at least 50 hours just trying to fix and improve the printer, which I didn’t mind btw, but I think most would prefer a printer which just works out of the box.

  In retrospect, I wish I had joined some 3d printing discords and talked to experienced users before deciding on which printer to buy, and not relied so much on google, websites and random comments.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Great success. Apple for scale⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I don’t know about you, but lighting greatly impacts how the surface quality of my prints look. Hard/direct light at a steep vertical angle makes the faces look pretty rough, but more diffuse light coming from the side makes the parts look great.

  It’s normal, but I think it’s more visible the thicker your layers are. I’ve also seen a respected 3d printing content creator use this effect to make his sponsored brand (Creality) look like it has higher print quality than the competitor… If you’re printing with ASA, perhaps you could use some light acetone smoothing if you want a more even surface?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Are Vorons still the best DIY printers in 2026?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  If you enjoy building the Voron that’s definitely a better deal (and I think I would) but if you’re doing it to save money you have to factor in that time in the cost as well. I was briefly considering buying a Core One L after they become available with INDX, because it would be nice with a printer which includes everything and just works. But the VFA problems discouraged me, Prusa’s suggestions to overtension belts and modified slicer profiles which try to avoid certain speeds feels like a bandaid solution to what is fundamentally a hardware design flaw IMO.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I think you missed the part where it said “[…] cannot be overridden or otherwise defeated by a user with significant technical skill.” I.e. either the printer will only allow flashing with signed firmware containing the detection algorithms, or it would have to be done by a separate chip which isn’t affected by flashing firmwares.

  But also detecting firearms in gcode is a ridiculously complex task, and if companies actually try to comply they might opt for building the algorithms into their closed source slicer instead, and then only allowing their printer to print encrypted/signed gcode. Or they might do the analysis using some AI algorithm on their cloud servers, requiring an always on internet connection to print things. It might be tempting to think that nobody would buy a printer like that, but I think that enough people will do if they make it convenient and cheap enough.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  For a printer to be compliant, it mustn’t be possible to bypass the restrictions. So your printer might not even be legal if it allows you to flash custom firmware.

  …and cannot be overridden or otherwise defeated by a user with significant technical skill.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What does the bed mesh in Fluidd show? My prints are good, nothing to complain about, but I see the bed mesh doesn't look so good.⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s also only the 50mm closest to X-axis 0 (left edge of bed I guess) that have significantly higher values, the rest of the bed is fairly even. Depending on what models OP has printed, they might not even be using this part of the print area.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Linux Slicer⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  If you set the UI to “simple” most of them are hidden, but it’s the best slicer for people who want a lot of options IMO :) I think it does a good job at categorizing and organizing all the different options, so it’s relatively easy to find whatever you’re looking for.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is this nozzle too low or bed temperature issue?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I think it’s more of an art form than an exact science to get perfect calibration using the paper method. It gives a decent starting point for further manual adjustment though. Personally I prefer to put a lamp behind the printer, and then babystep the nozzle down until I can no longer see any gap between it and the bed, but that also usually requires a few minor adjustments afterwards.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is this nozzle too low or bed temperature issue?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Looks better, but IMO it looks like it’s still calibrated too close to the bed. In some places it looks like the material has been smushed into the surface, and in others it looks like ridges have formed between the lines where the nozzle has pushed excess material around. …prusa3d.com/…/First-Layer-Calibration-04.jpg

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Creality's Warranty Loophole: How They Tried to Charge Us $30 for a Defective Sensor⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  If it wasn’t open, they would be violating the licences of the FOSS projects it’s forked from. Their firmwares inherit GPLv3 from Marlin, and CrealityPrint inherits AGPLv3 from slic3r (via Orca Slicer, Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  Never used MS Planner, but the Kanban plugin does everything I need and I use it for my larger hobby programming projects. I was already using obsidian.md for other things so for me it was very convenient.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  If you don’t find any hostable service, perhaps you could try Obsidian if its Kanban plugin works well in the mobile client. It’s closed source, but all data is stored in markdown files, and you could use a self-hosted git server for storage and synchronization between users.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Offline TTS in 2026?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  https://github.com/resemble-ai/chatterbox is pretty good, and has both TTS and voice cloning. Main disadvantage for me was that even if the cloning gives a consistent voice, the generated samples can get random accents.

  https://huggingface.co/zai-org/GLM-TTS also seemed pretty promising, but I haven’t had time to test it yet.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨GPU prices are coming to earth just as RAM costs shoot into the stratosphere - Ars Technica⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I just wanted to test if it was viable to run larger MoE LLMs on CPU, e.g. Qwen3-next-80B-A3B… Even if I got acceptable generation speeds I’d probably get bored with it after a few hours, as with other local models. Had I got it for €700 it was pretty low value for money anyway, since my current RAM is enough for everything else I use the computer for. On the positive side, I can put that money towards a Steam Frame instead.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨GPU prices are coming to earth just as RAM costs shoot into the stratosphere - Ars Technica⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  … I was thinking about buying a 96GB DDR5 kit from the local computer store a few weeks ago, but wasn’t sure it was actually worth €700. Checked again now and the exact same product costs €1500. I guess that settles it, 32GB will have to be enough for the next couple of years then.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Filament won't adhere?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Filament not sticking to itself sounds pretty unusual… Found this review on youtube. The channel has 6 subscribers and I have no idea if it’s legit or disguised marketing, but all the comments mention similar problems as yours. There’s also this review, with more negative comments. One person says they managed to get good prints by raising the print temp even more, but don’t do that if you have a PTFE lined hotend. I.e. only try higher temps if you know for sure that you have an all metal hotend.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How do you secure your home lab? Like, physically? From thieves?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  So far that has never happened because I’m not using that much storage :) But I shut it down when I need to turn off the mains electricity, and for powering it on afterwards the fake wall can be lifted off. It’s just the area underneath the desk so the panel might be smaller than it sounds like, and it hangs on some hooks so it’s fairly easy to remove if you know what you’re doing. Painted in the same colour as the wall, and with some some random junk on the floor in front, it blends in quite well though. I think the risk of burglary is fairly low, so it’s primarily to soothe my own paranoia.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How do you secure your home lab? Like, physically? From thieves?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I mounted mine on the wall under a desk in a room with no other electronics, and then put up a fake wall in front of the server. It can draw in air from the sides, and exhaust upwards behind the desk. But the only real solution is offsite backup, which will also protect against fire and other disasters.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Filament blobs⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Maybe something is wrong with the script generating these test prints, if you don’t have any similar problems with normal prints?

  In addition to the blobs in the middle of the circles, I think it looks overextruded/blobby every time it changes direction. E.g. if you look at the -20 sample, it looks generally underextruded as one would expect. Though it’s also blobby around the edges, where the lines make a U-turn. Since the printer usually slows down at turns (unless your acceleration is set insanely high) this could be an indication that you’re exceeding your hotends melting capacity, i.e. either temp is too low or speed is too high, so it would be interesting to know what you calibrated those values to. I don’t think this is usually associated with random blobbing in the middle of the print, but could be worth checking just in case.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Filament blobs⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  If you have a PTFE lined hotend, this kind of blobbing can also be caused by bowden gap IIRC. Might be easier to provide suggestions and ideas if you added some information about what printer you have, what filament it is, and what your other slicer settings are.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Simplifying Crypto Parties⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Can’t help but think about this old XKCD

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Very large amounts of gaming gpus vs AI gpus⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Products targeted towards businesses have always been unreasonably more expensive than those targeted towards consumers. It sucks for us AI hobbyists that Nvidia are stingy with VRAM on consumer cards, but I don’t find it surprising.

  Personally I only have a single RTX 3090, but I know a lot of people online who are stacking multiple consumer cards to run AI. Buying used 3090s and putting them in a mining rig is probably still the best value for money if you need a large amount of VRAM.

  How much VRAM do you actually need btw?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨MIT researchers crack 3D printing with glass — new technique enables inorganic composite glass printed at low temperatures⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  new technique enables inorganic composite glass printed at low temperatures The ones you linked looks like they were printing at high temp.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s not just you, there’s a financial incentive to write “reviews” which convince the reader to immediately buy the product, because of referral links. Even disregarding that the fact that it takes much more time and knowledge to write an actual unbiased review, you’ll most likely earn less money as you might dissuade readers from buying it, or even if you just make them think a bit more before going through with the purchase and they end up buying the printer somewhere else. I’ve started referring to these kind of pages as “fake reviews”, it plagues almost every product category and it has made it very unreliable to use the internet for buying advice.

  Though I suppose it’s even worse for 3d printing, as some manufacturers have been known to pay youtubers for positive reviews and to lie about their competitor’s printers. And even the ones who don’t get cash in the hand still have some incentive to bias their reviews, as pointing out a printer’s flaws or recommending to buy something else would make them less likely to receive more free products to review in the future.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Budget-friendly Sovol SV08 Max redefines large-format 3D printing with Insane 700 mm/s speeds⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s literally the same (probably exaggerated) marketing material as Sovol themselves are trying to sell their Kickstarter project with, reformatted to look like an article. Not surprising that it has a couple of “Click Here to Buy Now: $999 $1299 ($300 off). Hurry, only 94/200 left!” referral links…

  It might be true that Sovol has made some of the least bad budget printers recently, but anyone who has brand loyalty to any of the companies that make cheap 3d printers in China is bound to get disappointed sooner or later. Years ago Creality also made relatively good printers, using high quality parts and with acceptable quality control (e.g. OG Ender 3 era) and when they became market leaders they dropped the quality, and I would be surprised if Sovol didn’t do the same given the opportunity. I’d wait a couple of months after it’s released, and try to find some actual reviews.

  3D Printing discord’s List of 3D printers even has a generic warning for Kickstarter printers:

  More of a warning against kickstarter machines, up until now almost all of them huge failures, with delays in shipping and troubles in terms of QC. They just use the early backers as free quality check/beta testing for the most part. Remember you are not buying a product on kickstarter, you are paying for a possibility to get a product.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨3D-printed drill press can drill through metal — costs around $45 to create your own drill press⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Might as well link to the original post on reddit, I don’t think Tom’s Hardware much value in their summary of it :)

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[deleted]⁩ ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I think the easiest way might be to put all the names in the box here and press “randomize”, if it comes to that.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Update on the ["crushed letters" issue](https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/36243859)⁩ ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  You mean you have turned it off completely? I used it with the stock E3v2 extruder and BMG in Bowden mode, and later with BMG in direct drive mode, without any retraction related problems and I think it’s the same for the majority of 3d printer owners. Perhaps your printer had some other issue, which only showed up in combination with retraction?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Update on the ["crushed letters" issue](https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/36243859)⁩ ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Did you calibrate flow rate, retraction and z offset? Teaching Tech has a pretty thorough guide for all things calibration.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bambu Lab’s Controversial ‘Authorization Control’ Hits Budget 3D Printers⁩ ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  DRM filament spools has already been a thing, XYZprinting tried it but luckily it didn’t catch on and they went bankrupt a few years ago.