fhein

@fhein@lemmy.world

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨I've never had such good prints. Replaced my warped ass Ender3S1 bed with a mirror.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨PLA warping during print⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

  As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Bad Oozing on SV06⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Self-Hosted AI is pretty darn cool⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Assuming they already own a PC, if someone buys two 3090 for it they’ll probably also have to upgrade their PSU so that might be worth including in the budget. But it’s definitely a relatively low cost way to get more VRAM, there are people who run 3 or 4 RTX3090 too.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨New adapter just dropped 🔥⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Probably a joke, since there’s always someone commenting that the item isn’t food safe whenever a model for something food related.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  It’s not easy trying to research which 3d printer to buy, there is more click bait and marketing than impartial reviews out there, and search engines tend to promote the garbage. And without a lot of 3d printing experience, it can be difficult to know if a “review” is paid for by the printer’s manufacturer, or just trying to trick you into clicking their affiliate links. There are also no consistently good brands if you’re looking for a cheap printer, pretty much all of them have produced a few good printers and others that have more flaws. For example old Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro were very good at the time, and Creality built up a lot of brand recognition, but then they switched to low quality components and seemingly stopped doing quality control and made a bunch of crap. Now it might be turning around again, as Creality’s latest printers are starting to look decent again, although perhaps a little overpriced.

  Personally I use this spreadsheet to compare pros and cons of budget printers. It’s maintained by a group of users at a 3d printing discord server, and while one cannot know for sure none of them have any ties for example to Sovol (the most recommended budget brand currently), they’ve seemed quite impartial to me so far.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[Klipper] How can I read the layer height from a gcode file and pass it on as a variable?⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  The only issue is (layer height), which of course can change from print to print.

  Technically not the only issue 😀 it can also change from layer to layer.

  Maybe calculate it from the length of filament being pushed out / the length of the movement * filament cross section? I’m on my phone so I can’t check right now but that info should be possible to extract from the gcode iirc

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What's the bang for the buck go to for AI image generation and LLM models?⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  For LLMs it entirely depends on what size models you want to use and how fast you want it to run. Since there’s diminishing returns to increasing model sizes, i.e. a 14B model isn’t twice as good as a 7B model, the best bang for the buck will be achieved with the smallest model you think has acceptable quality. And if you think generation speeds of around 1 token/second are acceptable, you’ll probably get more value for money using partial offloading.

  If your answer is “I don’t know what models I want to run” then a second-hand RTX3090 is probably your best bet.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Does anyone else have experience with koboldcpp? How do I make it give me longer outputs?⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Is max tokens different from context size?

  Might be worth keeping in mind that the generated tokens go into the context, so if you set it to 1k with 4k context you only get 3k left for character card and chat history. I think i usually have it set to 400 tokens or something, and use TGW’s continue button in case a long response gets cut off

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Prusa slicer 2.8 UI changes⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  And CLion’s new UI… and Cura slicer… and discord with default settings… and most websites… it seems to be a cornerstone of “modern” UI design, and personally I hate it too.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Does anyone else have experience with koboldcpp? How do I make it give me longer outputs?⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  llama.cpp uses the gpu if you compile it with gpu support and you tell it to use the gpu…

  Never used koboldcpp, so I don’t know why it would it would give you shorter responses if both the model and the prompt are the same (also assuming you’ve generated multiple times, and it’s always the same). If you don’t want to use discord to visit the official koboldcpp server, you might get more answers from a more llm-focused community such as !localllama@sh.itjust.works

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Sci-fi racing platformer Distance gets a surprise update with Steam Deck improvements⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Hooray, I can finally play it. Had it on my wish-list for years, when I finally bought it I found out that neither the native Linux or the Windows+Proton version was working.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Common printing questions⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  No and I hate it :( Even if there are a few legit review sites still around it’s near impossible to find them among all the fake reviews being pushed by search engines

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Is it practically impossible for a newcomer selfhost without using centralised services, and get DDOSed or hacked?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  A static website and Immich

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Where to Recycle Filament?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Perhaps not helpful for most people, but Add:North offers recycling for PLA which you have bought from them.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Never bought any, but I was looking at this type of automatic extinguisher: firerescue.eu/…/1027-viper-car-automatic-extingui…

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The flowerbeds in front of my house could use some work.⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Soil not draining enough perhaps? Only way we’ve managed to kill lavender is by pruning it too much.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨The 3D Filament Tier List: Which Spools Rule? | Zack Freedman⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  MyTechFun also has a lot of material tests, and while perhaps not ideal from a usability standpoint he posts detailed Excel sheets with all the data.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Brick Layers: Could printing STRONG parts be so simple?⁩ ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Blog post with the same info, for people who don’t like watching videos.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Christmas buying advice?⁩ ⁨⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I agree with half your statement :) There are other cheap brands that are just as bad as Creality, or possibly even worse.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Klipper keeps deleting my Z offset instead of saving it⁩ ⁨⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Any possibility that you’ve accidentally modified something in the automatically generated part of the config, so its failing to read the saved value? Perhaps you could attach your entire printer.cfg?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Wait, the ZimaCube has a private GPT implementation?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  There are tons of options for running LLMs locally nowadays, though none come close to GPT4 or Claude 2 etc. One place to start is /c/localllama@sh.itjust.works

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Marionette kinematics⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Works for me, looks like some kind of youtube wrapper. Here’s what I think is the original video www.youtube.com/watch?v=mf3gcrtaDSg

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Landing page for selfhosted services⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Static html+css page generated with this: github.com/maximtrp/tab

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Am I building a fire hazard?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Or put the slab on top of foam rubber www.youtube.com/watch?v=y08v6PY_7ak

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Melting 3D Printed eReader cases on my deck.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  ASA seems like an easier-to-print alternative to ABS, afaik only downsides are higher cost and fewer colours to choose from. Supposedly possible to print ASA without enclosure.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Any electroluminescent filaments for 3D printing?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Yea, definitely keep a fire extinguisher nearby if you decide to do this experiment :) But on the other hand, one should probably already have one of those close to any 3d printer.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Any electroluminescent filaments for 3D printing?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  One could try “printing” 1.3mm EL wire using a nozzle of similar diameter, low enough temperature to only melt its outer PVC layer, and thick layer height so that its core isn’t squished. And it would of course have to be vase mode… I’m not saying it would work, but it might be an interesting experiment.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Question about Klipper and printer hardware.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  I would guess it ultimately depends on how much you’re interested in modding, fine-tuning settings and calibrating the printer to perfection. If you only want to load a model and hit “print” then I guess you wouldn’t notice much difference from just a mainboard swap. But since you’re about to install Klipper, you probably have some interest in spending time optimising your printer :)

  I’ve upgraded a lot of things on my printer, but not got to the mainboard yet so it still has TMC2208 driver hardwired in stealthchop mode. I never got much out of pressure advance while the printer was still in bowden mode, even with a BMG extruder which is much stronger than the stock extruder… Can’t say if it would’ve turned out better with TMC2209 drivers, but after modding the printer to direct drive I have no issue with pressure advance. Now the main reason I want to upgrade mainboard some day is that I would like a 5:th driver so I can do proper dual Z.

  And a general Klipper recommendation, in case this is the first time you try it out; Resonance compensation is like magic, and it works perfectly fine calibrating it manually (i.e. without buying an ADXL). After calibration, I could increase acceleration to 4000 without visible ringing. For reference the default acceleration for Ender-sized bed slingers is usually 500, which IIRC can be upped to about 700-900 before you start to get ringing… Not only does high acceleration make it print faster, but at least for me it had a bigger impact on corner quality than pressure advance ever had.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Question about Klipper and printer hardware.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  From what I can find on search engines, the Aquila probably has a 32 bit board, so from a “processing” perspective I think it would be equivalent to the E3 Turbo.

  It seems a bit unclear what kind of stepper drivers the Aquila has, but some posts I found claim it has clone TMC2208. I believe the E3 Turbo has TMC2209 which should be more powerful, and supposedly is better for pressure advance. You can search for “tmc2208 vs tmc2209” if you want more opinions on if it’s worth upgrading just for that.

  I also believe the E3 Turbo will give you UART access to the stepper drivers. IIRC this allows you to configure each stepper motor for either stealthchop (less noise) or spreadcycle (more power) mode, so you could for example set the extruder stepper to spreadcycle.

  The E3 Turbo has 5 stepper drivers while the Voxelab board only has 4, right? If you upgrade/mod your printer to dual Z it’s nice to have each stepper on their own driver, or if you rebuild the printer to IDEX, but otherwise there’s not much use for it.