empireOfLove2

Summer humidity averages 15%RH and winter humidity about 40-60%RH outside. Generally myindoor humidity runs between 30-40% @72F but I don’t do anything special to control it.

I store almost all my PLA and ABS in open racks and rarely have a quality issue (Bambu, Kingroon, and Sunlu brands). Engineering filaments (PC, PET, PC, ASA) I will dry before use in an AMS-HT and keep stored in sealed containers with dessicant just as a housekeeping necessity. Sometimes I leave them out and it’s fine, but they are $ enough that I take care of them to avoid scrapped prints.

If you can’t get RH lower than 35% after 48 hours you need to renew or exchange your dessicant. Drying works by heating air until it’s RH is extremely low which causes water to migrate out of the plastic into the air via vapor partial pressure, then it gets absorbed by the dessicant to be removed from the system. OR, some dryboxes (ams-ht) continuously exchange air from the outside, which is energy intensive but provides a continuous supply of hot, dry air to remove water from the system.

If you aren’t actually removing the water with dessicant or air exchange, it will just stay in your drybox and return to the same RH you started at once it cools down.

The driver motors are very weak, it only takes a tiny increase in friction for them to be unable to keep up with tracking. I always go to a mechanical service on devices this old.
I believe most of the time they use silicone based greases. Thats the kind of grease that usually is mostly translucent and a clear or whitish color. Petroleum base greases like the ever present white lithium isn’t good for the plastics long term.

Is it laser degredation or is the tracking head losing its lube and having a harder time keeping up? If it’s not tracking each groove perfectly aligned it would cause some poor intermittent performance.

I wouldn’t call CF a total scam, the dimensional stiffness (not strength) improvements are very real- but they are very much the wrong solution for the vast majority of 3d printers.

The reset button is basically just a signal to the CPU/BIOS that it should wipe memory and begin the boot process from scratch. If it was not working, that indicates the CPU was hard locked and not responding to any sort of input, not just an os fault The power button sends an actual trigger signal to the PSU through the ATX connector so it bypasses any mainboard lock.

Random shit happens, see if it does it again.
My go to for random stability issues is to always run a full deep memtest to look for bad RAM and then a CPU stress test to see if it’s a random thermal or core issue. More often than not I find stability problems just with these two steps.

I’m sure they’ll be introducing legislation that makes owning your own means of production onerous if not illegal within a week or two. Can’t be having citizens realize they can make their own replacement parts or consumer items!

yeah most all of them are good to -30c easy, as with most electronics, just make sure it stays dry and let it sit inside to acclimate for a few hours before you turn it on.

when very cold rubber and wire insulation might crack if moved, but sitting stationary it’s fine.

The more they delete, the more they can resell every few years as “new” while charging ever more exorbitant prices for!