papalonian
@papalonian@lemmy.world
- Comment on Bro 😭😭 16 hours ago:
John checking his xitter replies like “oh mylanta 😩”
- Comment on Bought a Retroid Pocket Mini 3 days ago:
Yeah that’s the only reason I don’t plan on getting one of these types of devices. I’ve got giant hands and anything that fits in my pocket like that is going to require me to angle my thumbs nearly against my palms to use the sticks 😭
- Comment on Boat work update. 2 weeks ago:
I remember your first post. Glad that you are still working on putting this workshop together. Excited to read about what you come up with.
If I remember correctly, you use a 3d scanner to get close-enough measurements of your workspace, and design around that? Is there any chance of us getting some pictures of your completed space once things are buttoned up, or would it be too much of a privacy concern? I’m super into confined, efficient workspaces and I’d love to see what kind of solutions you’ve come up with for your specific needs.
- Comment on Motherboard swap! 3 weeks ago:
Sounds like a plan!
If you have the time, check out a “intro to Klipper” video or something similar, just to get an idea of how useable it is, see if you’re interested. I’m here if you have any questions 👍🏽
- Comment on Motherboard swap! 3 weeks ago:
Is there any advantage to going the klipper route?
The advantages are innumerable of you are a tinkerer (it looks like you are). If you just want your printer to print stuff and that’s that, marlin is fine, but if you want to get serious about tuning and modifying your printer, Klipper is an inevitability.
Think about the QOL improvement that octoprint provided over running your SD card back and forth from PC to printer. Klipper is that x1000. Write macros to automate things like filament swaps, chamber heating, build plate clearing. Change every aspect of any behavior of the printer by modifying a .cfg file (rather than recompiling marlin firmware.bin files). There’s plugins for Cura to send your g-code directly to the printer (with octoprint you save the file to your PC then upload to octo, with Klipper there’s just a button in Cura to send directly to the printer and start printing).
In short, the only reason to use marlin is “it came on the printer and I don’t have the knowledge to set up Klipper”. Klipper is just better in every way. It’ll take you a couple hours to set up (you have a popular with lots of premade configurations available online), and from the moment you get it going, you’ll wonder what took you so long.
PM me if you have any questions.
- Comment on Why won't this slice? 4 weeks ago:
I don’t think that Cura is smart enough to cut STL files apart like that. My guess is that a program like blender would be best to do this, make a shape the size of your printer’s build volume (or slightly smaller), put the part you want to print inside of the shape, then remove everything else.
I’m not familiar with blender but that’s the work flow I would approach with.
- Comment on every damn morning 1 month ago:
Energy drinks are counter intuitive.
This argument is ignoring that energy drinks a. have the same caffeine (usually more) than the coffee you offer as an alternative, b. don’t generally use sugar as a marketing term promising energy, and rather c. tend to offer sugar free alternatives to come across as healthier
- Comment on every damn morning 1 month ago:
Shit. You’re gonna make me go back to reign.
I switched to Redbull because of the lower caffeine content (I feel like it’s starting to effect me with jitteriness and anxiety but still need it to function (yay undiagnosed ADHD)) but that orange creamsicle was sex in my mouth and when I was able to handle it that 300mg felt AMAZING.
I might just have a heart attack at work tomorrow.
- Comment on Nintendo Targets YouTube Accounts Showing Emulated Games 1 month ago:
“Japan has had the best 2000s tech since the 80s” I think is the succinct phrase you were looking for
- Comment on Not too bad for my first ever try with TPU 1 month ago:
Erm, it’s proper etiquette when posting TPU benchies to upload a picture in squished form 😉
Pretty decent looking print. This printer has a Bowden tube setup yeah? Impressive. If you decide to upgrade to a direct drive you’ll probably be able to print it with retraction and help tone down the stringiness.
- Comment on Something... 1 month ago:
At first I thought he was sending a picture of his mom’s pussy.
- Comment on Wood Temp Tower 2 months ago:
This is how my wood PLA+ prints used to look too. Your extruder is almost 100% the issue. These filaments are spongy and don’t extrude well. Try toying with your extruder tension and if that fails get a BMG knockoff
- Comment on How to mount a 3d print to a motor axis? 2 months ago:
Instead of making the hole the exact size, make a small gap so you can use a screw and nut to clamp it down on the peg
- Comment on Advice choosing my next 3d printer 2 months ago:
That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.
Jesus, is that what’s going on… I enclosed my Franken-printer (well it was already enclosed but now it’s less shitty) and my first layer kept growing, I figured it was an inconsistent BLTouch…
- Comment on Small reminder: Don't forget to sporadically renew your nozzle from time to time! 2 months ago:
Changing nozzles is important as they are consumables, but all of your high quality close up shots are showing a practically unscathed nozzle under a lot of gunk (the picture of the back end of the nozzle has a big chunk of cooked plastic that will pretty easily scrape off), if you cleaned it you’d probably be just as well off as with the new nozzle
- Comment on Never store gerbils up your ass, we went over this! 2 months ago:
Only guess is bro doesn’t wipe or shower very well and is constantly doing the itchy-butthole-wiggle in his chair.
- Comment on Made a succulent planter thing 2 months ago:
Depending on if the seam is concave or convex, you might be able to use a file or thin piece of fine sandpaper to remove it, but you might wind up with an ugly scratch worse than a uniform line.
Either way it still looks very nice.
- Comment on Made a succulent planter thing 3 months ago:
Ooh, I quite like this. The design is lovely and that filament is super snazzy.
If I might offer some constructive criticism, I think a randomized Z-seam would’ve worked really well here, but I only noticed it when zooming in looking at one of the plants and if it’s facing a wall or something it’s non-existent anyways
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
Shit, what have i done.
You’ve added another notch to you nerd belt!
That’s the exact setup I’ve got. Let me know if you have any questions or issues getting things set up. Once you have it figured out you’ll wonder why anyone uses marlin… there’s just so much available. With marlin, literally everything is baked directly into the firmware, and unless you compiled it yourself or dug through the code you’ve got no idea what’s going on with the printer. Set up a retraction tower? Better hope it was set up right because marlin won’t tell you current retract settings. Leveled your bed? Better hope that the numbers stick and the mesh is actually applied to prints.
With Klipper, not only is all of that easily configurable by editing a text file, all of that information is available directly in the GUI. Want your printer to do something else at the start of every print? Just change your start up macro. Realize that you set the wrong retract distance in your slicer? Just change the setting in the GUI. Start a print job with 5 models and one of them starts to fail? Don’t cancel the whole print, just the part that’s failing.
These are just off the top of my head improvements and there’s literally dozens if not hundreds more. What have you done? You’ve elevated.
- Comment on well if you look at it that way 3 months ago:
Bro has seen every single tape measure and this one wasn’t one of them, it’s definitely a fake tape measure guys
- Comment on Kipper - Home printer only if needed 3 months ago:
Yup, I got this set up when my BLTouch mount broke and I had to zip tie it to the print head resulting in less-than-perfect repeatability. Changing the default G28 command is a good way to do it, I did it by making a new macro CG28 and put that in my START_PRINT macro in place of G28.
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original
That’s what’s great about (most) printers, you can do whatever you want with them 😁
about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
That’s because you’re using the stock firmware, which was not compiled with the bltouch in mind. If you want to get that working, you’d have to flash a different firmware, at which point I’d highly recommend Klipper, maybe I’m just bad at using Marlin (the other popular 3d printing firmware) but compiling firmware for it was a million times more difficult than getting klipper working
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
Our hobby survives on the backbone of kind internet strangers, to deny your call is to deny yourself.
I don’t know your printer’s configuration, but assuming a pretty standard setup (single extruder, single X and Y steppers, single or dual z) I can recommend the SKR MINI 3.0. It’s a gem to handle, documentation and firmware are readily available on their GitHub, and best of all, they’re cheap and easy to source (assuming you’re in the US).
While you’re looking in to changing your main board, may I suggest you take a peek at Klipper? It’s phenomenally worth the effort it takes to set up, and you’re already going to be doing a big amount of the same legwork if you’re getting a different main board than stock.
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
So that little board is simply connecting all the cables from the main board into one cable (the USB C cable). If you’re getting nothing from the main board, either the board itself or the mosfet for the heater is dying.
Honestly, I don’t know how you’d go about testing board vs mosfet, if it were me I’d just replace the board, but somebody else might be able to tell you if there’s a better route to take
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
so which board is defect? The little one in the hotend or the board on the other side of the USB-C cable?
My money is on the main board inside the printer. The “board” on your hotend (if it’s like others) doesn’t really have any computers or controllers on it, it’s more like a fancy cable connector between the main board and those components.
If you test the voltage and get nothing, it’s either the main board or the mosfet for the heater. If you test it and it gives you a stable 24v, the problem lies somewhere between the main board and the heat cartridge (cable, connector, the hotend board, cartridge itself).
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
What issues are you having? I’m sure we can help you get it figured out
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
You can get a new board for <$50 (you don’t need the same board that’s in the printer), spend an hour or two learning how to move the cables from the old to the new, and still have a pretty good deal
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
You don’t want to read the resistance of the heater. You want to find the voltage being sent to the heat cartridge.
When you’re able to, disconnect your heat cart and stick your multimeter probes in the socket (or touch the top of the cable screws), and heat the nozzle. Should read 24v IIRC. Based on your answer to my other comment, my assumption is the number will not change when you turn on the heater, implying board or mosfet failure.
- Comment on Biqu B1 - Not heating the hotend 3 months ago:
I can se that the thermistor works because it changes values in the display when touching the thermistor-end.
Good information. You can probably remove thermistor from possible cause, but to be sure, you can tape the thermistor to your heat bed, and heat to a high temp, make sure that the “nozzle” temp is close to the bed temp
What is the behavior when you hear the nozzle? Does it immediately give error, or does it take some time? If it takes some time, is the temp changing on the nozzle at all, or it stays the same until error?
- Comment on [Klipper] How can I read the layer height from a gcode file and pass it on as a variable? 3 months ago:
Technically not the only issue 😀 it can also change from layer to layer.
I realized a little bit into finding a solution that this would be a limitation. I’m using Cura which AFAIK doesn’t support traditional “variable layer height” like prusaslicer. It does however allow for different layer height for infill; if I ever decide to do that, I can just adjust the infill print speed accordingly.
I actually got this working btw, I had to learn a bit about how variables work in Python/gcode but it’s working like I charm! I find my max volumetric flow, set it in the material cfg, and it just runs prints right below my max extrusion rate. Everything has come off the printer looking perfect in between filament types, no re-slicing required!
