papalonian
@papalonian@lemmy.world
- Comment on It's okay, Buddy 1 day ago:
I’m gonna steal this ogre for an NPC.
- Comment on Follow-up On My FDM Purchase Advice Post 4 days ago:
That’s lower than I expected. When I was last shopping for a new potential printer, bambus were starting at around $400. Good piece of hardware for that price, if you’re not crazy into the hobby aspect of printing and just need it to aid your other hobbies. Have fun with it!
- Comment on Follow-up On My FDM Purchase Advice Post 4 days ago:
Hey, that’s a pretty good price. I’m not a fan of bambu either, but for someone who just wants to print stuff I don’t think it’s a bad deal at all
- Comment on Follow-up On My FDM Purchase Advice Post 4 days ago:
relatively low initial investment
How much did you get it for? Bambus are not normally the “relatively cheap” options haha
- Comment on Common printing questions 4 days ago:
I usually just use it to find some sort of peer reviewed recommendations (ie YouTube reviews) - it’s usually pretty easy to tell there who’s being genuine
- Comment on Follow-up On My FDM Purchase Advice Post 4 days ago:
I’m glad you got something that is meeting your needs so far! Lots of people going the bambu route as of late. If you want a tool that just works, it’s a brilliant machine, and if later down the line you do get more interested in the hobby side of things, you’ll a. already have basic maintenance and use experience, b. have a bulletproof backup printer when things on your project inevitability hiccup and stop working, and c. be able to print your own parts if you decide to go a self built route.
- Comment on Starter Guide 5 days ago:
- Comment on Retraction Test 6 days ago:
Perfect is the enemy of good.
This must be why I never like the good guys!
- Comment on Retraction Test 6 days ago:
Do some poking around for your printer and slicer - for your printer, you need to know if you have a direct drive or Bowden tube setup, and for your slicer, you need to figure out how to modify the standard gcode.
Looking at some pictures online I’m pretty sure your printer is a direct drive. Again I’m not familiar with your slicer so I don’t know what your model looks like, but typically retraction tests will be a tower with different values printed on the side indicating how far the retraction distance is. For a direct drive, these values should be pretty small, likely topping out at just a couple mm at most.
A search for " <slicer name> retraction tower setup" should get you numerous tutorials for your slicer, just follow those guides and input a range appropriate to your setup and should be good to go
- Comment on Automation 6 days ago:
I can confirm this. I’m not a wolf expert, or even seen that many wolves really, but I have a dog and I don’t think she’d wear a bonnet.
- Comment on Automation 6 days ago:
Reg, why’d you just stab yourself in the shoulder?
Ah cmon, ain’t ya ever seen a movie?
Well of course I’ve seen a movie, but what the hell are ya doing?
Every time the guy stabs himself in a movie, it’s right before he kicks the piss outta the guy he’s fightin’!
Well that don’t… when that happens, the guys gotta plan Reg, what the hell’s your plan?
I dunno, but I’m gonna find out!
- Comment on Retraction Test 6 days ago:
If it looks good enough, why bother?
good enough
You do understand what community you’re in, right? ;)
- Comment on Retraction Test 6 days ago:
I don’t use orca slicer so I’m not familiar with how it works specifically, but are you sure that the retraction settings are actually changing between different sections? I made the mistake when I first started it just loading the model and letting it print with default settings from my slicer. If the GitHub doesn’t specify exactly how to enable the retraction tower settings, I would look up a guide on YouTube. If you’ve done temp towers, it’ll likely be set up in a similar fashion.
If your test starts at 0 and you don’t see any difference, it definitely it not working as intended; 0 retraction with result in a huge stringy mess, and going to the next step will be a significant change.
- Comment on Retraction Test 6 days ago:
Extrusion works by the motor pushing the filament forward, causing pressure behind the nozzle, and the filament melting and extruding out the end. When your printer wants to stop extruding ( ie moving to a new part or section to print without printing anything in the middle), it makes a retraction to pull the filament back, releasing the pressure behind the nozzle, and stopping the filament from extruding out.
In a perfect world, a full retraction would not be necessary; not pushing the filament forward should stop the pressure buildup, and stop the filament from flowing. However, we don’t live in a perfect world, and so backing the filament up a small amount is necessary to stop it from flowing.
Finding out exactly how much you need to back the filament up is the purpose of this test. Back the filament up too much, and you can create clogging issues, extrusion issues caused by the filament not being at the end of the nozzle at the beginning of the extrusion, and (slightly) increased print time; don’t back the filament up far enough, and filament will continue extruding out the nozzle, causing stringing.
The test works by having you lower your retraction distance to a very small number ( a lot of tests will have you disable retraction altogether, ie 0 mm), and slowly increase it from there. The idea is that the bottom of the tower will look like hot garbage, and slowly improve as the retraction increases; what’s the quality stops improving, you know that that is your ideal retraction distance.
If you have a Bowden tube setup, a good retraction Tower would have values ranging from 0 mm to around 10 mm. Direct drive extruders need far less retraction; 0 to 2 mm in 0.2 mm increments should be good. Again, you’re looking for the first setting that gets rid of stringing.
- Comment on I design and 3D Printed the smallest friction hing, I think is possible at 10mm 1 week ago:
Fantastic! My first thought was either a miniature display table or maybe a small parts case-and-table combo.
- Comment on I design and 3D Printed the smallest friction hing, I think is possible at 10mm 1 week ago:
Nice! This is really impressive for a first prototype print. I’ve been printing for over a year, designing small brackets and such for maybe 6 months, and most of my designs are just one solid piece. Something with moving parts is awesome!
Can we ask what the project this is for is, or for a link to this model?
- Comment on Automatic Fire Extinguisher for 3D Printer Cabinet 1 month ago:
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe
Bambu had to recall one of their printers for a faulty bed heating wire that either was causing or had the high likely to cause fires. We have robots with flame swords that we’ve trained to not burn our house down. Yes some robots are better built or trained than others but it’s still a robot with a flame sword nonetheless.
- Comment on What a beautiful romantic comment by Rishi Sunak 1 month ago:
The reason they say this, is because using inspect element is going to give you a cleaner result 100% of the time with way less effort.
If you use an image editor, you have to worry about making sure all of the pixels line up properly, the right font is used, right font size is used, make sure that the margins are the same, if you make a small mistake you practically have to start all over…
Right click > inspect element > find the text block you want to toy with > type what you want > done. And it looks exactly the same as if it were part of the website, every time.
Different strokes, yes, but if I see someone cutting their food with a chainsaw I’ll at least make sure they know how a steak knife works.
- Comment on i hate this meme 1 month ago:
Did you ever have a friend who would, no matter how many times they’ve already said it or how little sense it makes, always take the opportunity to say, “that’s what she said”?
I think it’s kinda like that, the guy on the left is trying to have a normal conversation but the person on the right here’s something that triggers their infested brain and they just have to blurt out the totally hilarious joke. This completely kills the conversation, and the one trying to talk is looking at his buddy like, what the hell is wrong with you?
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer 1 month ago:
- Dried filament and different colours, no effect
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
I did not, but yesterday I put marlin on the stock board (the first one to start doing the temp thing), and it’s doing the same thing, so the pi isn’t the problem.
I also tested the printer’s power supply with my multimeter and it’s stable between 23.8v-24.2v.
My house electricity is a little dodgy, my lights flicker for a half second when a high draw appliance turns on (AC, refrigerator, etc), but nothing in the house has ever been damaged by it in the 5 years I’ve been here, so I don’t think it’s strong enough to kill multiple boards, especially since it’s after a PSU. I suppose moving forward I can run the printer off a surge protector (I was running straight from the outlet because I was testing power consumption a few months back and never switched it back).
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Yup, went over those a few times throughout the posts, multiple thermistors, multiple ports on the board, several configs in Klipper. All of them identical behavior.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Unfortunately, no.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Good call on checking that resistance, didn’t think of that before.
Even more frustrating is it happening twice across two different boards!
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Thermistor swap was done a few times on the old board when the same issue was happening. I had 3 of them that I was swapping between.
Currently in there is a pretty nice thermistor that, rather than using a set screen to keep it in place, is actually built in to the end of a set screw; it’s effectively impossible to damage it. Unfortunately, it’s a known-good resistor, my problem lies elsewhere.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
I really, really appreciate the time you’ve taken to try to help me, but I’m positive the hot end not reaching target temp is the issue. If I push filament against the outside of the heat block, it melts at a very slow rate, when it would normally instantly liquefy against the block.
I’ll drop my config file when I get home.
My temp chart, both before and after the issue started again, are near perfect flat lines. PID tuning done on current hardware.
My hotend has a fan blowing on the cooling block, and two part cooling fans.
There are no clogs/ obstructions throughout the hotend. New hardware has been tested (nozzles, heat throats)
Typically I print between 60-120mm/s depending on nozzle size and the model. But not long before the problem started I successfully completed a tower print at 200mm/s with zero issues. It should be noted, though, that once again this is an issue happening outside the realm of print settings.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. 1 month ago:
Filament is not melting when held to the outside of the heat block. It is 100% an issue with the nozzle not reaching target temp.
- Submitted 1 month ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 17 comments
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] [LONG] Clog test write up - this time with pictures! 1 month ago:
Someone asked this in a different post of mine, all of the thermistors I used were a single piece, meaning that replacing the thermistor replaced everything between the pins on the motherboard and the unit that goes into the hotend.
- Comment on [Troubleshooting] [LONG] Clog test write up - this time with pictures! 1 month ago:
… So you wanna know something brilliant.
I replaced that board maybe 2 weeks ago and have been printing fine since then.
About an hour ago, the new board has replicated the problems of the previous one. Not getting hot enough but reporting target temp. It’s a completely different board from a different manufacturer, and it’s failing the exact same way as the last one.