papalonian

Someone else found the wiki link, where this image is used

You can see the tiniest bit of the blueberry outlining in the OP. It’s what made me think something might be missing.

Bizzarro comic strips all have a number of recurring symbols hidden in them, the number of which is indicated above the signature. I forget how many different symbols there are in total, maybe 10 or so. When I was a kid reading these in the paper, I had the symbols memorized so it was easy to pick them out, but now I only see them here and there and have a hard time telling what is a “symbol” and what’s just part of the scenery (the tea cup in the window is one of the symbols, if I’m not mistaken).

Edit: the tea cup is not one of the symbols. I think the fourth one may actually be cut off (you can see that at least the bottom of the comic is missing).

Found all 4.

When I first came here, this was all Isonza River. Everyone said I was daft to march an army to a river, but I marched em in all the same, just to show them. They were defeated at the river. So I mobilized a second one. They were defeated at the river. So I mobilized a third. They burned up, fell over, then were defeated at the river. But the fourth one is still mobilizing. And that’s where you’re going to go, Lad, the strongest army to fight on the Isonza River.

“for a half-liter” or “halfa’-liter” don’t sound too bad actually

Use your small printer to build a slightly larger printer, and then use that printer to build a slightly even larger printer. Then print this

I’m sorry, maybe I’m not phrasing this correctly…

Just because one print works doesn’t mean it will work on every print.

I never said, “test on one print”. I said to test it. Test it on an object with many color changes, test it on a model with a ton of one color and only a small amount of another, test it with different infill percentages, test it on a prototype of something that’s going to be really important so you know how it will work in the end.

Everybody is going to have their own specific answer as to what works well and what is and isn’t necessary, the only way to find the right answer for you is to test things and figure it out yourself. The only way to get things 100% right 100% of the time is leave it how it is now and stop messing with it. Anything beyond that is going to vary on a case by case basis, and you’ll only understand what settings to change when, if you toy around with test prints.

I have been printing for many years. I understand that, “what works on one won’t always work on another”. Which is why I find it odd that you seem to be looking for an answer that works for one person, and therefore must work for every person, for every print. The only one-size-fits-all is going to be the most wasteful in material and time (purge tower and purging filament). If you want to cut back on what the manufacturer/ slicer devs are saying “this will most likely work”, you’re going to have to do some experimenting yourself.

That’s why I suggested testing it and seeing the results for yourself, not necessarily “turn it off and yolo”.

If you know firsthand what the outcome of changing the settings is, you can make a decision on your own based on your own experience when to use what settings.

If you have a printer that has these features, try it out and see the differences for yourself. There’s probably a reason why it’s set up the way it is, but sometimes the differences are so minute that you don’t notice or care. If you run a few prints and the color swaps look like garbage, you’ll have a better understanding of why the printer and firmware are set up that way. If it turns out fine, congratulations, you’ve made a personal improvement to your machine!

The entirety of voron is an open source project, they do not make or sell printers or parts. None of their printers are designed for this size, though