Print refusing to stay flat in corners

Submitted ⁨⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨Silfeed@fedia.io⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

https://imgur.com/a/oXQJArS I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware.
Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure.
I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.

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CIA_chatbot@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
I haven’t seen anyone mention this somehow, but this is most likely caused by a draft hitting that part of the print and causing it to cool at a different speed than the rest. Easy test, get a big cardboard box and put it over the printer and redo the print. You might need to invest in a cheap printer enclosure

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spitfire@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
What is the (approximate) ambient temperature of the room it’s being printed in? Are there drafts (wind)? Have you tried cleaning the plate and then using glue (which shouldn’t even be needed for PLA)?

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dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Given all you’ve tried I can only conjecture that this may be a print temperature issue, especially since you already tried adhesive. What material are you printing, and at what temperatures for nozzle and bed?

You may also find that your printer’s sensors are not reporting temperature accurately. Mine sure isn’t and never has, at least on the bed, and it consistently reads about 5 degrees high versus reality if you poke the surface with an external temperature probe. This isn’t a big deal only so long as you know to compensate for it. The thermal conductivity of whatever your print bed material is may also force you to compensate, i.e. a glass plate will not perform the same as a steel one and may require a boost of a few degrees and/or allowing it to cook longer during the preheating phase before you start your print.

I print on a sheet of cheap Kapton tape with a later of even cheaper hairspray on it (Aqua Net, if you must know), “65” °C bed temp for PLA (60 in reality) with a first layer temp of 215 for regular PLA, and 210 for “rapid” PLA blends. My sharp corners stay put.

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neclimdul@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Cleaning is a good suggestion. I’d start there.

Also, that kind of looks like the cheap black textured plates that come with some printers. I thought the people talking about pei sheets were over-hyping but honestly they are really much better. It’s not a silver bullet but pla sticks soooo much better to them.

For pla it’s overkill, but for tricky stuff build adhesive can help. I had good luck with vision miner. It’s expensive but it’s been buy once, cry once because it has lasted a really long time.

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fulcrummed@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
From my relatively lesser experience I can suggest a couple of easy things to cross off your list.

look at first layer thickness, not sure how thick you’re going but thicker material is more likely to stick and stay put.

reduce cooling (eg fan speed) in the first couple layers to promote adhesion

as others have said, clean your print bed, I’m a fan of isopropyl.

increase bed temp by 5°C

slow your first layer(s) further.

I am certainly no expert- these would be my first ports of call before I start praying to the google-fu gods.
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HelloRoot@lemy.lol ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Because nobody said it yet: wash your bed with warm water and soap to remove any residue (especiallyoily fingerprints)

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Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
If PETg (which is where I’ve most commonly had warping), make sure Filament is very well dried. Try both raising or lowering bed temps and bigger brim.

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MrEC@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
What kind of filament are you using? I’ve had that trouble with ABS before and what worked for me was making a slurry of acetone and some scrap filament and painting it on the glass then adding a brim to the model in the slicer. With other filaments, it’s always been playing with the temps and using a brim in my experience.

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BennyInc@feddit.org ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Have you tried adding a brim or mouse ears to remove later?

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