4hr 40m Benchy!

Submitted ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨4lan@lemmy.world⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ea7971a3-867a-400e-90df-94968726d7d0.jpeg

I finally got multi-color working on my Creality K1 Max using the 3D Chameleon.

Decided to make a 2 color benchy and scaled it down to 75% to save time, along with 0.25mm layer height.

So far the Chameleon has been pretty picky with filament, but when it works it works well! This print is with silk gold and matte black. I have even gotten 95A TPU to print with it surprisingly!

I modified the color-change code so it takes 1 minute less, which makes a big difference when you have hundreds of color changes.

Next up, 4 color benchy. Probably will be 10 hrs lol

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Comments

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felbane@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
The multi color is neat but that print quality… woof

and this is coming from someone who daily drives an ANET

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- 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  Yeah it’s not the prettiest lol. This is 75% size, and 0.25mm layers, which doesn’t help. (I just wanted to shorten print time)
  
  I had to use Prusa Slicer because of the custom GCode features, so my settings there are not perfect yet. It also isn’t controlling the aux fans properly like Creality slicer.
  
  My normal 1 color benchies are 22 minutes and absolutely perfect, using my finely tuned Creality Slicer profile.
  
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- Vex_Detrause@lemmy.ca ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  How do you like your ANET? Is the A8?
  
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huskypenguin@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Four hours? That seems awfully slow. You say you’re printing this for your store? I would think you’d want to get a Bambu A1.

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- BradleyUffner@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  Color changes are VERY slow.
  
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  - 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    1min30sec for every color change. Multiply that by hundreds of color changes and it adds up!
    
    I am starting to see why people usually print whole plates full of multicolor prints. It’s the same amount of color changes, but more way more efficient.
    
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- 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  no, this was a print for myself to test the Chameleon. I don’t sell any multicolor prints as of now.
  
  I prefer non-proprietary parts and unlocked software you get with a rooted K1. I can edit my klipper configs directly.
  
  This is not my multicolor-specific machine. It will be used mostly for single color regular prints
  
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  - huskypenguin@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    Ah I see! Did you see Bambu has an open source-ish option now with the community firmware?
    
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thegreekgeek@midwest.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Oh that’s sick! I’ve been interested in the chameleon since they first posted on Reddit. How finicky is it?

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- 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  very. I spent the last 3 weeks fiddling with the timing. If you are not willing to troubleshoot and work on it I’d go for a ready-built solution like the AMS. I like the challenge, but definitely underestimated it
  
  Most of it was me not fully understanding what was happening in the filament swap gcode. Once I understood that I was able to tweak settings to make it work. Once I found out certain filaments are just trouble I have had better luck. Still working on getting it to be less picky.
  
  the updated version in April is going to have sensor-less detection of where the filament is in it’s path, which will make timing a non-issue. Any Chameleon sold until then will have the hardware needed, and can be updated for free in April.
  
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  - thegreekgeek@midwest.social ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    Oooh, that sounds awesome! I need this.
    
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RememberTheApollo_@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
I thought this was going to be a joke where you hand-drew the bench with a filament pen, thought it was really god for that.

Nope. Wow, that took a while.

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lanolinoil@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
I misread and thought this was a 40 meter benchy.

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ilovededyoupiggy@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
How do you like the K1 Max? I’m considering that one for my next purchase, upgrading from a heavily modified E3v2. Any downsides or things you wish you would have known first? Any other recommendations? I am mostly satisfied with my ender, just looking to get some speed and stability gains and maybe higher print quality by moving to CoreXY/Klipper system. Ender was a great, cheap way to teach myself, but now I’m looking to step it up just a bit. Thanks.

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- 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  Overall I love it. If you are into tinkering, which it sounds like you are, you’ll like it.
  
  My K1 is about 4x faster than my modded ender 3. I print at 420mm/s max speed on my K1 with 20k mm/s2 max acceleration. It is amazing how fast things finish. Overnight prints are now day prints.
  
  You can get near-perfect prints out of the box, but will want to do some calibration to get better results. There are built in calibration tools in the Creality slicer. There is a VFA problem, but it seems to go away if I print walls above 220mm/s. Printing with polycarbonate is now fully possible and I love it. I print most replacement parts for the printer in PC.
  
  This thing is fully able to be modded, which I love about it. I’ve added:
  
  second side aux fan
  
  lighter printed hotend housing
  
  side-spool mounts
  
  tramming bed knobs
  
  270deg door hinge
  
  lid-riser with LED strips inside
  
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  - ilovededyoupiggy@sh.itjust.works ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    Thank you! That’s very helpful!
    
    Do you have to use creality slicer or can it still work with Cura or Prusaslicer? And can I still use octoapp to watch/tune from my phone? That seems to be the biggest drawback I was able to sus out of their marketing materials is that it seems to be a lot more locked down to the creality ecosystem than prior models, I’m hoping that’s changed or I was just interpreting it wrong.
    
    Thanks again, appreciate the insight!
    
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pixeltree@lemmy.blahaj.zone ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
If you don’t mimd me asking, what practical use case for this is there? Like it’s cool but I just split the model up and print them separately and it seems like so much less of a pain

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- GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  Depends on the model. Sometimes printing separately is better! Sometimes printing together is better. It depends on the geometry. For example, if one color can act as support for the other. Printing materials on each other can be better bonding, too. It’s also better in a high volume sense to have the machine do as much work as possible.
  
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- overzeetop@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  If you print with incompatible filaments (materials which don’t bond/adhere) you can get cheap, nearly perfect breakaway supports. I’ve done some rocket parts on my PrusaXL and it’s certifiably magic.
  
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  - 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    yeah I saw people were doing that with PETG and PLA. I haven’t tried it yet but good to know that’s in my back pocket if I need it.
    
    Also soluble supports are a thing, although they might be trickier and more expensive
    
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- 4lan@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  good question, this was just a test print honestly. My main use case will be doing TPU and PLA for phone cases for my store. Soft inside, hard outside. The tests I have done have the two materials completely fused together and are promising.
  
  most full color prints can, and should, be printed separately and assembled later. I totally agree there, but there are times that isn’t ideal.
  
  I made a print that was a dial and small numbers with markings. This would have been a pain to glue 1.5mm wide pieces onto the main part. Multicolor printing made it super easy and the result is clean looking.
  
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  - pixeltree@lemmy.blahaj.zone ⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
    Ah, I hadn’t thought about integrated multimaterial, nice
    
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