Does Prusas textured sheet...work at all?

Submitted ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

I’ve had a MK4S for over a week now, and 100% of the prints I’ve tried to make on the textured sheets have partially or totally failed. PLA prints beautifully on the smooth sheet, but PLA, PETG and ABS, I think I could print on the surface of a 10 inch tank of oil with more success than the textured sheet. Plastic doesn’t stick to it. I’ve wiped it with isopopyl, I’ve washed it with dawn…it’s a bad print surface and I want my money back.

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emenl@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I had issues with mine, nothing was sticking to it causing 100% failures. I forgot where I read it but I ended up scrubbing it good with one of those slightly abrasive green pads in warm dawn dish soap, drying it with a clean microfiber cloth and putting it on the bed with the heat set to 60c for a few minutes. It now works extremely well with pla or petg, I just wipe it down with a bit of 90% alcohol between prints. Never had any issues with the smooth and satin sheets.

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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Kitchen sink washed and rinsed. Water run as hot as I can get it this time of year. Drain plug installed, textured sheet washed with a fresh green Scotchbrite pad under hot water and Dawn dish soap. Each side scoured in horizontal strokes, vertical strokes, diagonal top-left to bottom-right strokes, diagonal top-right to bottom-left strokes, in counter-clockwidse circles in horizontal strokes, and clockwise circles in vertical strokes. Repeated 3 times each side. Dried with laundered microfiber cloth. Placed on printer heat bed and heated to 60C for 5 minutes per side.
  
  This makes the 4th, 5th and 6th time this sheet they tell you not to submerge in water has been washed in a sink full of soap and water.
  
  Brand new spool of Printed Solid Jessie PETG filament loaded, corresponding filament preset selected in slicer. Tool caddy with assistant discs at sharp corners sliced, sent to printer, Z offset set at -0.025mm, 1 glencairn of small batch 90 proof straight bourbon poured…
  
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  - azdle@news.idlestate.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    
    Dried with laundered microfiber cloth.
    
    You don’t use fabric softener or dryer sheets, do you? If you do, your cloth has a layer of wax on it that acts as a release agent on your bed.
    
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  - IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Seems like great success? If so, great. The only things about your routine I would change is to not submerge, not because that’s bad but because who wants to obsess over cleaning their sink first, and use paper towels to dry. You want to make sure no films are transferred to the bed.
    
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  - radswid@feddit.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    It seems the only thing you can improve at all is scotch instead of bourbon. :P
    
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  - MrQuallzin@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    With all the scrubbing you did, I’d start to think you may have stripped the surface of its coating
    
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- ikirin@feddit.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I did a similar thing with all my sheets - run over them with super high grit (400/800) sandpaper once or twice, clean with IPA and paper towels and since then I’ve never had any issues with prints not sticking
  
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PetteriPano@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Grease is bad for those PEI sheets. I wipe it off with alcohol before every print. They need to be hot, too. Around the glass transition temperature of your material. I exclusively print PETG. 70°C will fail, while 85°C will stick great.

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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Glue stick on glass. Got it. I’ll go to Lowe’s first thing in the morning to get some cut to size.
  
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  - PetteriPano@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I chipped so many glass beds back in the day with PLA and Elmer’s glue stick. I’d often put them in the freezer in hopes that they’d just release on their own. Alas, they chip there, too.
    
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  - DaGeek247@fedia.io ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Tbh I've used hairspray and glass with no issue as well. It cheap after and easy to clean. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    
    If you end up doing glass, check these babies out while you're at it; https://www.amazon.com/TBWHL-Prtiner-Picture-1inchx0-55Inch-26mmx14mm/dp/B08M9DH8Z4
    
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Munkisquisher@lemmy.nz ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
My textured one is perfect for petg, never have sticking issues. With tpu, I need some glue stick as a release agent because it sticks too well.

I only print pla on the smooth sheet, works well.

And have had mixed luck with both petg and pla on the satin sheet.

Have had a very similar experience with the sheets on my mini, and now on the core1

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rasterweb@fedia.io ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Yes. Mine has worked amazingly well.

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- XTL@sopuli.xyz ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Likewise. Though the bed offset needs to be carefully set. It’s slightly different to the smooth one on mine.
  
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Pulsar@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I clean mine with isopropyl alcohol every other print or so.

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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  So, to clarify, you’ve EVER gotten yours to work? EVERY SINGLE part I’ve printed on that sheet has partially or totally failed, and I’ve cleaned it repeatedly.
  
  I’ve been printing on glass and glue stick since the Obama administration, and that actually works. You know what? Fuck magnetic sheets, I’m going back to glass and binder clips, because they actually goddamn motherfucking work. I’m sick of people unsolving problems.
  
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  - Pulsar@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    It works great. I print mostly in PETG so bed temperature might be a factor.
    
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stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Back when I had a Prusa I never had any success with the textured sheet and PLA, however it worked perfectly with PETG.

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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  PETG, PLA, ABS, I haven’t gotten anything to stick to it. It’s “powder coated” but it doesn’t say what powder. Is it teflon?
  
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  - fufu@feddit.org ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Its PEI, powder coated. Everything should stick to it with out any adhesives. Soap?
    
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  - stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    Stupid question, you sure you are using the right bed temperature? The feature of a PEI textured sheet is that it self released the part when the bed cools down,.
    
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bw42@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Yeah the texture sheet works, but I would never use it with PLA. I only use mine for TPU and sometimes polycarbonate. Anything else is either smooth or satin sheet.

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AngryishHumanoid@lemmynsfw.com ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Yeah its been better than the smooth one, but I long ago got into the habit of using hairspray on every print.

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- CmdrShepard49@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I’ve been using hairspray for years too. I don’t get how people prefer chunky glue sticks or $80 “specialized” bed adhesion fluid over a nice uniform spray from an $8 bottle of Suave unscented.
  
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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  I find the smooth one works adequately for PLA. I don’t have a satin one, and I think I’d have better luck printing on an inch deep tank of cod liver oil than the textured sheet.
  
  I’ll go back to printing on glass and glue stick before I start fucking around with hair spray.
  
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  - AngryishHumanoid@lemmynsfw.com ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
    I’ve tried all 3 and found hairspray the absolute winner of bed adhesion and it’s not even close.
    
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Badabinski@kbin.earth ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
I use a textured sheet for all of my Prusament PLA prints on my Core One and XL, and it's never given me a hint of trouble. I'm using the Prusa-provided profiles with zero tweaks.

I just hit it with a bunch of 99% IPA while it's cold and scrub it with paper towels before every single print. I don't heat it up until all of the IPA has dissolved, since apparently PEI is incompatible with hot IPA. I've never washed my sheets with soap, I've never applied any sort of bonding agents to them, and I've never sanded them.

Maybe you just have a bad print sheet?

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neidu3@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
PETG on textured sheet from prusa and PETG here. Works like a charm, and I don’t even use a gluestick.

Is your sheet perfectly clean? Scrub it with a dish washing brush, dish soap and warm (not hot), and dry it with a lint free towel. Even fingerprints (visible or invisible) is enough to ruin adhesion.

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cheesemoo@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
You mentioned using Dawn. Did you use the hottest water you can get from your tap, and maybe wash several times? I remember having lots of trouble with my textured sheet initially, but after a few good scrubs with really hot water and dawn, it finally started working just fine. Like there was some residue from manufacturing left on it that took some work to get off.

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- captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
  Per Prusa’s Knowledge Base I washed it with “warm water (not hot!) and a few drops of liquid dish soap (not hand soap).”
  
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TDCN@feddit.dk ⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago
Mine works beautifully for petg but pla not so good. Trick is absolutely clean. Fingerprints are enough to ruin it. Keep using dish soap and be sure to rinse well with warm water. Forget about isopropyl! Use a fine dry microfibre cloth before printing. You can use a spray of 1L water mixed with a few drops of dish soap on the cloth but if the plate is already clean a dry cloth can be enough most of the time.

Finally make sure your first layer height is adjusted correctly. The plastic needs to he squished slightly more into the textured surface. If in doubt go closer until you are defiantly too close (like almost scraping) and then back up up again. Then you are sure.

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