Looking to buy a cheap but best first 3d printer. Ender3 V3, CR-10 SE, or something else?

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• mvirts@lemmy.world ⁨39⁩ ⁨minutes⁩ ago

  Not a mistake, I’ve got an ender 3 and a cr10. Both are fine, keep your expectations realistic and calibrate each axis, especially the extruders. Use PLA, consider getting a new build plate if your prints won’t stick. I recommend flashing firmware on the ender 3 unless you know what was loaded onto it last, doesn’t have to be fancy firmware just something you know for sure is configured for your printer. A cr10 should probably get firmware as well but I never loaded new firmware on mine and the controller is older so I’m not sure if it’s a good idea.

  Don’t forget the cost of filament, if you print a lot you may spend more on filament in a year that your printer budget.

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• hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works ⁨1⁩ ⁨hour⁩ ago

  Lots of comments here, plenty of information for you. I’ll add to the pile that I started playing with my buddies stock ender 3, fought it often, lots of tweaking and configuring.

  Then I got my own ender 3v2, and fought it less, but still needs tinkering. Usually though I can fire it up and print small stuff without touching it. I print infrequently these days, so the procedure usually involves wiping the dust off the bed first. But it works well enough for my needs.

  I tend to get into hobbies for awhile and then back off, so I’m glad I didn’t spend more. And really, while $300 is a lot of money in many ways, in some ways it’s not so much. I’m glad I have a printer, it is occasionally highly useful. But I’m glad I don’t have a $600-1000 printer. Personally 🤷‍♂️ but that’s just me.

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• DasKibby@lemmynsfw.com ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  Lots of Bamu fanboys in here, and don’t get me wrong, those print with minimal hassle and have great customer service, but you are selling your soul, always on internet connection, bambu account required, every print you ever try sent to the cloud.

  I recently got a creality K1, refurbished, super cheap, awesome machine, zero tinkering. and creality just gives me root access at the click of a single button so I actually own the hardware.

  Before that I had a super cheap no-name bedslinger with no auto-anything, and taking that apart multiple times a week was terrible but also very educational to actually understand the hobby

  Don’t believe the marketing, there are viable options.

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• FridaySteve@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  A creality anything shouldn’t be your first printer. I own two creality printers.

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  • mapleseedfall@lemmy.world ⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    creality is for tinkerers not printers

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    • FridaySteve@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      I tell people if you want a printer with the most upgrade paths, pick the ender 3 stock. You can make it bigger or taller, add direct drive, magnetic beds, put a laser on it or a cutter, switch out the board for different firmware, all available on alibaba.

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    • nibbler@discuss.tchncs.de ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      own ak1max. no need and no desire to tinker

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• vatlark@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  I have a CR-10s that I bought used. I asked the seller to ensure that it worked before I bought it. Most of my problems I had with the printer are due to me trying to make it print faster. If I had just downloaded Cura and used the default profiles it would have served me well.

  Learning how to level a bed is probably the most significant skill you will need. It’s not too hard.

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• stealth_cookies@lemmy.ca ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  It depends on the type of person you are. Those machines you reference are in a class of machine where you are likely to have to put a lot of work into them to get them running reliably and probably more money than if you just bought a better printer from the get go. They are machines to recommend people who want the 3D Printer to be their hobby rather than designing and printing stuff.

  If that doesn’t sound like you, just buy a Bambu or Prusa.

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  • nieceandtows@programming.dev ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    Thanks for the advice. I do know that I am sort of the kind who picks the flavor of the month to get obsessed over, then throw it away for the next shiny thing, so I am a bit of both of your usecases.

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    • Shayeta@feddit.org ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

      I got an Ender 3 V3 KE. I am long past obsessing with 3D printing but it bleeds into my other hobbies or fixing things around the house.

      “I need a plastic thing that is this-this-and-this dimensions…” I model it in FreeCAD, do a few test prints, adjust my design and re-print until satisfied.

      A 3D printer became a tool that I use a couple of times per month.

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• Zomg@piefed.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  I've always heard "if you want to print thinks, buy Bambu. If you want to fix your printer, but an ender 3"

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  • B0rax@feddit.org ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    I don’t know if bambulab should be recommended. With the cloud issues and the very closed nature of it. Better recommend Prusa.

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  • Kolanaki@pawb.social ⁨12⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Wow, when did this flip happen? When I got into 3D printing, Ender 3 or any other printers based on it since it was open source was the printer to get. I’ve got a VoxelLab Aquila which is an Ender 3 clone and I have not had to do much fiddling with it aside from leveling the bed.

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    • Zomg@piefed.world ⁨9⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      Basically the moment bambu came out I think is when that whole thing started. Bambu really made 3d printing approachable for many

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• RheumatoidArthritis@mander.xyz ⁨9⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  I have a CR-10 clone and maybe because it’s a clone, but I now have to calibrate it before every print. It was good when it was brand new but quickly forced me to learn troubleshooting.

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• squaresinger@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  If its your first printer I would not go for a second-hand one. There are so many ways you can subtly mess up a printer and if you don’t know your way around printers yet, then it’s quite hard to fix all that.

  Considering you can get a Bambulab A1 mini which does everything out of the box and works better out of the box than an Ender 3 after months of upgrades.

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  • SpikesOtherDog@ani.social ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    I have to agree. My ender 3 has been through hell over the past 5 years, but since I am familiar with it, I can usually dial it in.

    If I was just starting out I would be overwhelmed with trying to understand it AND troubleshooting.

    If you have an electromechanical background, such as bench repair and/or having repaired lots of truly broken printers, then it is less of a risk imo. I know that refurbish items are usually okay, but there are bad items that make it out of any shop.

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    • QuarterSwede@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

      The Ender 3 is like an old Jeep Willy’s. Teaches you a ton about how it operated but it does so poorly.

      I went from an Ender 3 to a K1. The difference in consistent quality and speed is staggering.

      OP, save up your money for an enclosed printer. It makes such a big difference it’s well worth it.

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  • nieceandtows@programming.dev ⁨16⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    I’m seeing FLASHFORGE 3D Printer Adventurer 5M new for $200 after coupons. Would you recommend the A1 mini or the 5M?

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    • Spaceballstheusername@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      I haven’t used the flashforge but my brother who never did any 3d printing before got it and loves it. He says it just works. I just got the elagoo centauri carbon for 300 and it’s so great but might be out of your price range. If your just printing with pla flashforge is probably the way to go. I never liked bedslingers since tall prints tend to tip over or delaminate and I keep my printers in my garage where temperatures can swim and change the prints drastically.

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  • nieceandtows@programming.dev ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    Thanks for the advice. I hadn’t considered that refurbished printers are technically used ones with inspection. Is it that important to avoid used printers for a first printer? I had no idea.

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    • squaresinger@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

      “refurbished” is a word that might not mean anything either.

      When buying your first printer you should first choose what you want: Do you want to print or do you want to tinker?

      If you want to print, get a printer like the Bambulab a1 mini. If you want to tinker, an Ender 3 is ok.

      If you want to really tinker a lot, get an used one.

      But I really wouldn’t recommend getting an used printer for your first one since you don’t know how they have been treated and messed up.

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• mechanismatic@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  You can get a new Sovol SV06 for less than $200. That worked very well out of the box compared to my older Ender 3. Prusaslicer also has a good profile for it. I don’t care for Cura slicer as much. Enders are of an older generation of printers that I will personally avoid just because of the legacy of having to tinker with them just to get them to work. The opposite end is the Bambu where “it just works” except it doesn’t always and it’s not as easy to fix and it doesn’t play well with third parties. Sovol is a good starter printer that I’d had even better bed adhesion with over Prusa MK4Ss at work.

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  • nieceandtows@programming.dev ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    Thanks for the advice. I’ll look into that one.

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• PriorityMotif@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  I picked up a used ender 3 V3 se off of marketplace for $60 and had to repair it. Since then it’s been printing 10x better than my anycubic kobra neo. I think it comes down to slicer profiles in orca slicer. The ender 3 was a wildly popular printer compared to the kobra. Cheap printers cut corners but can still print good. If you’re not mechanically inclined then don’t get a cheap printer.

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  • FridaySteve@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

    My ender 3 stock wasn’t my first printe and isn’t my only printer, but some days it’s my best printer.

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• the_joeba@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨day⁩ ago

  I went from the Ender 3 v3, to the Anycubic Kobra 3, and the difference is so wide, or makes it hard to recommend the Ender. With the Ender I could do small simple models, but anything with multiple parts were hard to dial in tolerances. The anycubic allows me to do multiple days of printing and be assured all the parts will come together. I now also get error handling so a tangle or running out of filament won’t ruin the job. It even resumes after power loss. I know it’s not in your budget, but the difference is very noticeable.

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