sobchak

Is it people deleting specific posts, or people deleting their accounts? I do find it kind of weird that when you delete your account, it deletes all the data you contributed. Maybe it’s the right choice though, IDK.

I tried a Volcano, and because of the long melt zone, I wasn’t able to completely tune out the oozing/stringing (on my Bowden at least). I dunno if the newer high flow hotends still have this problem or not (or if they’re fine on direct drive); something to consider.

I actually have a Orbiter 2, and think I’m going to try the Volcano again. I still need to print a new toolhead for it.

I have a Dragon SF on my Voron which seems to work well (in a Stealthburner/Clockwork 2). I like that I don’t need to use 2 wrenches to change nozzles (unlike a V6) and that it securely attaches to the toolhead with screws (in the Stealthburner).

Gulf states?

I’m guessing the cheap, good quality, printers are cheap because they want to capture market share and enshitify (all the proprietary stuff they use is a hint).

I was looking for something to replace my old Creality CR10S a few months ago, Bambu and Qidi were tempting because of the price, but I didn’t like how proprietary everything was. The Prusa Core One looked nice, but looks like they’re going a little less “free” now with their Open Community License and locked boot loaders. I would have got a Troodon (Voron-derived pre-built printer), but they were out of stock. I settled on just getting a Formbot Voron kit. Took a very long time to build, but I’m very happy with it. I know the printer inside and out, so it’s easy to debug, modify, or repair if I need to.

In my opinion, if you’re already somewhat familiar with 3d printing, I’d build a Voron from a kit. If not, I’d get a Voron-derived pre-built like a Troodon or Sovol SV8 (I think the Sovol has a proprietary toolhead though). If you want an easy Apple-like experience, but still pretty “open,” I’d get a Prusa.

If you think you’re going to want to print higher-temp, warp-prone filaments like ABS/ASA/PA, I would not choose a bed-slinger (e.g. Mk4s), because they are harder to enclose nicely and take up a lot of space if enclosed. As one data-point, my core-xy Voron produces much higher quality prints (e.g. less artifacts) and is faster than my bedslinger CR10S.

PCTG is supposed to be roughly half-way in-between PETG and ABS in heat resistance.

Yeah, these are 0.5C cells, meaning they can safely discharge 157A (I would be using them for offgrid solar), so those little nickle strips would melt. I think TiG welding these would be extremely dangerous and produce too much heat (and I’ve never TiG welded before; just badly MiG welded a couple times). By “welding” in the description they mean commercial laser welders.

I don’t think those would work for these large batteries. I have one that I use for small cells though (i.e. 18650/21700).