AliasVortex

@AliasVortex@lemmy.world

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨You donkey⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  Shit post aside, I had a friend with a background in the restaurant industry (did a bunch of time in various restaurants, went through cooking school, that kind of thing), who put on a work sponsored barbeque. When someone asked why the folks helping him got promoted to Chef, my friend explained it as “everyone in the kitchen is addressed as Chef, it doesn’t matter if they’re calling the shots, cooking food, or doing dishes. It’s a show of respect.” Grain of salt and all since cultures vary between restaurants, but it’s stuck with me because it was such a genuine moment of “this dude loves to cook and got a chance to share something he’s super passionate about”.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨"Broke the law" is such a weird phrase; it implies you made it so the law no longer functions. The law doesn't change because someone disobeyed it⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  I imagine it more along the lines of breaking a promise. Law is more or less a social contract, so it’s less that the law no longer functions and more that the person in question is breaking the agreement.

  But also yes, one who repeatedly breaks the contract with no consequences, definitely calls into question the value and validity of the contact, and that’s when things really start to, erm… Break.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Choosing my first printer is driving me mad.⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago⁩:

  I wouldn’t let multicolor be a barrier for entry for you. It’s something that can technically be added later*, but it is much more difficult to convert a printer to be able to work with engineering materials. Personally speaking, I also wouldn’t mix multicolor and engineering materials ABS is pretty cheap but anything that would need a hardened nozzle (like glass or carbon fiber reinforced filaments) is almost too expensive to waste purging. Plus, if I’m remembering correctly, color swapped prints aren’t quite as strong structurally as monofilament prints.

  * technically speaking as long as your printer can run Klipper, there are community projects like Box Turtle or Enraged Rabbit that are meant for more general use (if you’re okay tinkering with things) if Elegoo never gets around to releasing their multicolor unit.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass.⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  Heads up, PEI sheets are great because you can take them off and flex them a bit to pop parts off, but it is worth noting that PETG (and TPU) can also bond too well to PEI. It depends a bit on the kind and quality of the PEI, but you may still want to use a release layer (I’m partial to washable glue sticks, but everyone has their own personal preferences) just to keep your plate safe.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How did it come to be that only two companies supply all of the world's PC graphics chips?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  I was content to let the other comments address the history since I’m not particularly well versed there (and there’s already enough confidently incorrect bullshit in the world). I mostly just wanted to interject on why there aren’t more chip companies beyond just hand waving it away as “market consolidation”, which is true, but doesn’t take into account that barrier for entry in the space is less on the scale of opening up a sandwich restaurant or boutique clothing store and more on the order of waking up tomorrow and deciding to compete with your local power/ water utility provider.

  The answer also gets kind of fuzzy outside the conventional computer space and where single board/ System On a Chip designs are common, stuff like Raspberry Pi’s or smart phones, since they technically have graphics modules designed be companies like Snapdragon or MediaTek. It’s also worth noting that computers have gotten orders of magnitude more complicated compared to the era of starting a tech company in your garage.

  If it helps answer your question, according to Wikipedia, most of the other GPU companies have either been acquired or gone bankrupt.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨How did it come to be that only two companies supply all of the world's PC graphics chips?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:

  The short concise answer is mostly cost. Nvidia, AMD, and Intel are all spending multiple billions of dollars per year in R&D alone. It’s just not a space where someone can invent something in their garage and disrupt the whole industry (like, even if someone were to come out of left field with a revolutionary chip design, they’d need to convince investors that they’d be a better bet than literal trillion dollar companies).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Framework unveils a second-generation Framework Laptop 16 with a swappable Nvidia RTX 5070 GPU, an industry first, shipping in November 2025⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  I’ve been rocking a Framework 16 for about a year now and would happily recommend it. It’s a bit more upfront, but I love knowing that I can fix or replace just about anything on it (pretty affordably too). It’s just so refreshing to not have to worry about dumb shit like an obscure power adapter or port forcing my laptop into an early retirement.

  It’s not the lightest laptop I’ve ever had, but realistically not all that much different from my last gaming laptop. Now that I’m not a full time student anymore I could probably get away with one of the smaller models, but the form factor is pretty nice.

  Overall, no major complaints!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨When you realize your laptop hasn't been plugged in for the last 4 hours you've been working...⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Not to nitpick, but it’s only been a single page and I already feel like the author has over used the word “said”, is all the dialogue this bad?

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Calibrating my E-steps ended up giving me nearly pixel-perfect prints (Creality K1)⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Agreed. Not to burst OPs bubble, but I highly doubt they’re hitting a flow rate that high.

  If I had to guess, Orca is capping their extrusion move speeds at whatever speed the filament_max_volumetric_speed of their filament profile is set to. In other words, if the profile is set to 12 (default for Creality Generic PLA) the actual speed is probably something like 150mm/s (flow / (nozzle diameter * layer height), so 12 / (0.4 * 0.2)), regardless of what the speed value is set to.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Pebble Time 2 Design Reveal⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  The blue/ silver is very striking, I’m excited!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨what are in you're top 3 favourite games of all time?⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
  1. RimWorld - I don’t think I’ve ever seen a game care so much about making the player feel like part of the story; just all around amazing. Damn near everything is configurable and for anything that isn’t the modding community probably has a fix for (and then some).
  2. Terraria - Certainly has its quirks and annoyances, but I like that it has sandbox elements to be creative and do whatever, but also always feels like the game has an objective to work towards. I’ve probably played though at least half a dozen times between solo runs and multiplayer games with friends/ family and I just keep coming back to it.
  3. Stardew valley - it’s just cozy with a slight hit of nostalgia. I have childhood memories of staying up entirely too late monopolizing the TV/ GameCube playing Harvest Moon and this scratches the same itch. Beyond that you can feel the love and attention to detail that the dev has poured into the game. Plus the skill ceiling is pretty low, so even my non-gamer friends/ family can play and have a good time.

  Honorable mentions:

  • Factorio
  • Slay the Spire
  • FTL
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[Update: Valve Responds] Mastercard Denies Pressuring Steam To Censor 'NSFW' Games⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:

  Absolutely and more! We also have psychic powers, murder robots, friendly murder robots, vampires, genetic engineering, organized religion, semi-sentient plants, space ships, cannibals, space drugs, drugs in space, rabid woodland critters, eldritch horrors beyond comprehension, giant bugs, orbital bombardments, and also the looming threat of starvation as you watch all that you built burn. That’s all before we talk about things that the modding community has brought to the game.

  To be clear, the RimWorld doesn’t force you into any one play style, and most of the things listed above can be disabled or avoided if that’s not your jam. At its core the game is trying to tell a story, it’s up to the player to help shape that story. It’s absolutely fantastic; quite literally the best $30 I’ve ever spent on a game (if we’re talking hours played, I’m just about to turn the corner on 2,000 hours (in the spirit of disclosure, a chunk of that is also spent making mods for the game)).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Cura is making cracks in the z seam?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  That or a wall wipe distance maybe? It’s been ages since I’ve used cura though…

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨What are your go-to sites to find free 3D files to print?⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  I mainly use my printer as a tool to solve problems, so my decision process is very much grounded in arriving at a solution as opposed to just finding something to keep the machine busy.

  My usual approach is to cast a wide net and go through all the models that might do what I’m looking for. If I’m lucky, I’ll find something that I like enough to print. If not I’ll use it as a brainstorming session and either pick out a model or two that I can adapt (or at the very least pull critical dimensions) or get a feel for what I’d like to do differently. From there, it’s off to CAD where I’ll fire off slivers and prototypes until I’m happy with the fit and function of my part.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:

  I would say so, my understanding is that lasagna is just a dish made from layering wide flat noodles, sauce, and other fillings.

  My mom makes a white lasagna with ground chicken, spinach, Alfredo sauce, and cheese. It’s amazing! I prefer it to a traditional lasagna, but I’m biased since I’m not a huge fan of tomatoes.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Pi-hole client filtering without DHCP?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  That sounds pretty similar to how I have my network setup:

  • PiHole has conditional forwarding configured (true,192.168.0.0/24,192.168.1.1,lan note: .lan is optional here, I uss it for my internal TLD) to get device names from router
  • PiHole uses Unifi as the upstream DNS and DHCP
  • Unifi uses cloudflare as the upstream DNS
  • Unifi hands out the PiHole as the DNS via DHCP config

  That way I get stats in all the places and can use Unifi for DHCP.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Currently slogging my way though the late game (or at least I was until more pressing things came up), there’s some slight automation towards the mid game that helps a bit, but the grind doesn’t really go away. Mostly due to the fact that you end up spending Faith/ corpses/ gold way faster than you can get them. I find myself in a waiting pattern fairly often- there’s still things to do, but progress on major quests feels super slow (and almost unrewarding). The DLC is mostly regarded as filler, but if you’re a completionist (or like what they offer), it’s not awful at the current sale price.

  Note: there are achievements that are gated behind having the DLCs if that’s your thing.

  It’s not strictly a bad game, but I’d almost rather play Stardew for the farming/ story or Factorio for the automation.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Let’s Encrypt Begins Supporting IP Address Certificates⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  That’s kind of awesome! I have a bunch of home lab stuff, but have been putting off buying a domain (I was a broke college student when I started my lab and half the point was avoiding recurring costs- plus I already run the DNS, as far as the WAN is concerned, I have whatever domain I want). My loose plan was to stand up a certificate authority and push the root public key out with active directory, but being able to certify things against Let’s Encrypt might make things significantly easier.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Keeping Snap And Crackle Under Control With Prunt Printer Firmware⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Seconding the confused Voron noises. I mean, I’d be really curious to see the 3d printer firmware market share beak down, but I feel like anybody building a custom printer is going to have a far easier time with Klipper, just because of how much easier it is to get dialed in.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Forced E-Waste PCs And The Case Of Windows 11’s Trusted Platform⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Right? I tried to switch my primary computer (framework laptop) to Linux earlier this year and ended up going back to windows after I had absolute nightmares with my type-c KVM. Coupled with performance issues while gaming (and the absolute hassle of having to force games to use my graphics card). Add in whatever random issues I was getting trying to remote into other windows machines on my domain (for CAD work). My day job is in software engineering/ programming, so I’m not exactly a stranger to digging through documentation and fixing computer issues, but spending time fixing my computer instead of using it got old pretty quick.

  Perfectly happy with Linux in my HomeLab and on my steamdeck though!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Will rice fix it?!⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  papyrus!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[deleted]⁩ ⁨⁨3⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Not to burst your bubble (it’s super neat to see a major company starting down the road to repairability; fingers crossed they commit to the bit), but this was posted to this community relatively recently: sh.itjust.works/post/37825020

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Uncultured⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Nah, eyelet is the hole that your lace (and aglet) goes through.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  True, I knew that my Voron would work out to be more expensive than the leading competitor, but I also highly value the open source ethos and saw it as an opportunity to put my money where my mouth is. No regrets and I’m happy to champion it, but I do try to present other options on the field.

  My broke college student days aren’t that far behind me and I can appreciate the hell out of a value option. I’m very curious what route you have in mind.

  spoiler

  The closest I can think of is maybe the Sovol SV-08, which gets you pretty close to a v2.4, but apparently not without it’s faults (comment). I’ll own seeing the budget and immediately thinking “you could build a Voron with that”. Alternatively, maybe doing a variation of the Ender 3 NG conversion, but I’m not sure how much traction/ review coverage that project has just yet. In either case, it’s hard to recommend something you’ve heard of, but haven’t personally used (experience bias and all). Happy to change my mind in the face of new evidence though!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Sure, happy to help! (Plus, I’d feel really bad recommending a Voron build and then just leaving you in the dark to figure everything out).

  Yes, Klicky Switch is the probe. Mechanically, it’s pretty similar to a BL-Touch, but is way cheaper (bonus points for also being harder to break and easier to fix) since it’s just a switch and some magnets.*

  Clicky Clack is a replacement for the stock door (acrylic and some VHB tape), it makes a better seal with the printer frame. Nice to have (especially if you’re trying to keep fumes down, but by no means necessary.

  Depth gauges are most handy for 2.4 builds, since they run 4 belts instead of lead screws (plus 2 for the Core XY platform) that you want to have all tensioned the same, so that every motor is moving it’s corner the same amount. Technically, you can do this by plucking the belt and using the mic on your phone to measure the frequency. (More info here). The gauge is mostly just to make it easier to compare the belts against each other rather than an empirical measurement tool. Again not a need, just a nice to have. I’ve never used the Amazon gauges since I went the kit route since it was “cheaper” (I’m also reasonably sure most of the gauges on Amazon are just modified tire depth gauges, which can be had for way cheaper and with a bit of quick modeling could very early be converted into belt gauges (or maybe someone’s already done that somewhere). There’s also printed models like this or maybe this that seve the same function. In short, haven’t tried them, but anything that can give you the same measurements repeatedly should do just fine (you can always sound tension one belt, measure it and make the others match the measurement).

  Whoops typo, sorry extrusion backers. These guys: steel, titanium

  Not super sure about the Tridents being self leveling, I think they are, but it would kinda depend on how they’re wired up (3 independent motors vs all 3 driven off the same control). The 2.4’s are absolutely self leveling though- they do a probe of each corner and adjust the gantry to be as parallel to the bed as you specify( example). From there, they’ll also probe a bed mesh, just to help deal with any deviations in the bed/ plate.

  Octopus is the main control board, I think they were used for commonly for a long while, but I don’t have one and can’t speak to it. Mini123864 looks to be the display screen (used for Klipper Screen). You’d probably want to check the Kit contents to see if a Pi is included, but based on those two alone, I’d say probably not.

  (Personally, it’s a big part of why I went with the LDO kit, (this is the one I bought. More expensive, but came with high quality parts, minor upgrades, and everything short of the printed parts in the box, plus Fabreeko was running a sale when I bought mine (Voron folks like to Celebrate Clee day (was 5/25 last year) in honor of one of the outstanding community members/ Voron team members (?)/ I’m not actually entirely sure))

  Uhh… Slice is not particularly well liked in Voron circles. They are very litigious with their patents, which doesn’t sit well with a crowd that is open source, well, everything (previous comment of mine with more info/ links). I think remember reading somewhere that there might be some bad blood between the Voron team and Slice, but I don’t have a link/ hard proof (beyond the fact that mounts for Slice hotends aren’t officially published with the toolhead files. If your deadset, user mods exist (and slice also sells parts)). Personally, I wasn’t all that impressed with my Mosquito Magnum, especially after I managed to irrecoverably jam the heatbreak (probably my fault. the cooling fan unplugged and heatcreap took care of the rest). Online reviews so Slices customer service was mixed, but generally skewed negative so I pretty much swore them off and wrote the hot end off as a loss (also managed to strip one of the tiny ass m2 screws that hold the thing together trying to take it apart after the aforementioned heatcreap incident). The heater and thermistor were fine- I stuffed them in a Phaetus Dragonfly though (less flow, but a solidly reliable hot end, especially on an Ender 3), and decommissioned them when I noticed that the insulation had worn though on the heater.

  On the Voron, I’ve been pretty happy with the Revo High Flow that came with my Kit. Well, other than the fact that nozzle clogs are a nightmare, the cost for replacements, and general lack of availability (they exist, but my go-to vendors are almost always sold out). I haven’t decided to yet (because I don’t particularly want to recalibrate everything), but I have a Phaetus neXt G as a standby if I ever get fed up with the Revo. The Phaetus Rapido is also a popular option.

  Haven’t used the Orbiter either. I don’t think I had any major issues with the stock Clockwork (it’s also been a while). I think I mostly swapped in a Galileo 2 (G2E) as a way to keep a spare extruder around in case of emergency. Overall, G2E has been pretty good- prints fine, just a bit annoying to service in the rare event of a jam (I was playing with TPU), and not known to play well with the Box Turtle MMU project that I’m working on, but that’s a problem from future me (after I get it built)…

  * I can’t personally vouch for it, but in the spirit of overkill, I should probably also mention the Beacon probe, which is a stupid fast Eddy current sensor (more info here) (replaces the Klicky switch/ inductive probe)

  Take this with a massive grain of salt (especially since I bought mostly of my stuff before the tarrif nonsense started), but personally, if I re-buying my machine (or building a second), the order(s) would look something like this

  Fabreeko:

  • LDO 2.4 350 kit
  • Backers, mostly for the discount with machine purchase, but also because I print mostly ABS lately
  • Printed parts, I tried to get the ender to print Voron parts and was somewhat successful but I ended up spending more time and money trying. If you don’t have a reliable source for ABS parts it’s absolutely worth the $150
  • Aluminum carriage mount, significantly easier to work with the AB belts and get even lengths and tensions. Plus including in the initial build means that you don’t have the re-do the belts to install it (totally doable, just annoying).

  Pre-tax, MSRP: $1,686.22 (ideally on sale for a bit of a lower price (the kits don’t tend to get much of a discount, but sometimes they throw in free printed parts or other discounts) and maybe the Clicky Clack door + acrylic if it’s a really good sale)

  AliExpress:

  • PCB Klicky, x2 to put it over the free shipping limit and for spare parts

  total ~$20

  To answer your question, Slice stuff off the bat is probably unnecessary. The nice part about Vorons is that everything can be upgraded pretty easily down the road, hopefully because you’ve identified a specific need or reason to upgrade.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I believe the official Voron recommendation is to build the printer stock first and then upgrade/ mod from there. Which is solid advice, the stock machines are very competent and don’t need upgrades to print well.

  The only real day-1 upgrade I’d recommend is called the Klicky switch (or the PCB variant so that you don’t have to do any soldering, just crimping). The stock BoM calls for an inductive probe, which works, but is prone to thermal drift (it gets less accurate as the printer heats up, so you have to do your bed mesh at the same temperature every time). Klicky replaces it with a limit switch- generally more reliable and accurate regardless of temperature.

  I might also recommend a belt tension gauge (totally not needed, but more convenient than trying to measure the sound frequency). I use a remix of this one (assembled, kit), but realistically, anything repeatable will do the trick.

  Everything beyond that is going to depend heavily on your kit, printer, and needs. For example, the LDO kits actually come with the mechanical parts for the Klicky switch among other nice to haves. Or alternatively, if you’re doing a 350 2.4 and planning on long running enclosed prints (ABS/ASA), extension backers for the flying gantry may be a good idea (the steel linear rails and aluminum have different rates of thermal expansion, which can cause them to bend as the internal volume of the printer warms up), but they’re not especially necessary if you have a smaller printer or only ever work with PLA.

  The official Voron discord is also a phenomenal resource. Plus most vendors run their own discord servers for help/ questions (I’m partial to Fabreeko, because their customer service is above and beyond, but West3D is also really good).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  The new printer, hands down (unless your goal is to push the viper beyond its limits). That kind of budget puts you far beyond entry level machines, and usually comes with marked improvements in quality, reliability, and speed. For example, with 1.5k you could probably swing one of the big Vorons 2.4 kits on sale (+printed parts), a Trident kit at retail (also with printed parts), or go the out of the box route and comfortably pick up the Core One (or go Bambu if that’s your jam).

  For context, I can run prints on my 2.4 what would take something in the neighborhood of 4 times as long on my old ender 3.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Do you know any software development philosophy books?⁩ ⁨⁨4⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I’m a fan of Martin Fowler, I’ve used his blog post on Tech Debt to explain to managers why you can’t just give a 15-year team-killer of an app to a bunch of newbies and expect smooth sailing. His refactoring book is also pretty great. Not necessarily philosophy, or a gripping cover to cover read, but skimming though it as part of a grad school class got me thinking about how I’d refactor my own code and changed my approach to coding (most notably in favoring a series of linq queries/ streams/ es6 array ops, over ugly loops with a tangle of branching logic inside).

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Get your new PebbleOS watch⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Got a PineTime for Christmas and so far been very pleased with it. I found the PineTimeStyle watchface and it’s been a bit like coming home to Pebble, but I do miss the wide array of watchface choices and effortless customization.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨There Have Been Times I Liked The Villain Dynamics Better⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Actually, now that you mention it, Worm is this to a tee. Worm is still probably one of my favorite reads to date; highly recommend (it’s like a The Boys with less evil corporations and more X-Men)!

  spoiler

  For all the praise, I’m not entirely sure I liked the ending, but the rest of the book more than makes up for it… I keep telling myself to get around to reading Ward, but so far haven’t had the time to commit to it.