AliasVortex

@AliasVortex@lemmy.world

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⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Uncultured⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨week⁩ ago⁩:
Nah, eyelet is the hole that your lace (and aglet) goes through.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
True, I knew that my Voron would work out to be more expensive than the leading competitor, but I also highly value the open source ethos and saw it as an opportunity to put my money where my mouth is. No regrets and I’m happy to champion it, but I do try to present other options on the field.

My broke college student days aren’t that far behind me and I can appreciate the hell out of a value option. I’m very curious what route you have in mind.

spoiler
The closest I can think of is maybe the Sovol SV-08, which gets you pretty close to a v2.4, but apparently not without it’s faults (comment). I’ll own seeing the budget and immediately thinking “you could build a Voron with that”. Alternatively, maybe doing a variation of the Ender 3 NG conversion, but I’m not sure how much traction/ review coverage that project has just yet. In either case, it’s hard to recommend something you’ve heard of, but haven’t personally used (experience bias and all). Happy to change my mind in the face of new evidence though!
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
Sure, happy to help! (Plus, I’d feel really bad recommending a Voron build and then just leaving you in the dark to figure everything out).

Yes, Klicky Switch is the probe. Mechanically, it’s pretty similar to a BL-Touch, but is way cheaper (bonus points for also being harder to break and easier to fix) since it’s just a switch and some magnets.*

Clicky Clack is a replacement for the stock door (acrylic and some VHB tape), it makes a better seal with the printer frame. Nice to have (especially if you’re trying to keep fumes down, but by no means necessary.

Depth gauges are most handy for 2.4 builds, since they run 4 belts instead of lead screws (plus 2 for the Core XY platform) that you want to have all tensioned the same, so that every motor is moving it’s corner the same amount. Technically, you can do this by plucking the belt and using the mic on your phone to measure the frequency. (More info here). The gauge is mostly just to make it easier to compare the belts against each other rather than an empirical measurement tool. Again not a need, just a nice to have. I’ve never used the Amazon gauges since I went the kit route since it was “cheaper” (I’m also reasonably sure most of the gauges on Amazon are just modified tire depth gauges, which can be had for way cheaper and with a bit of quick modeling could very early be converted into belt gauges (or maybe someone’s already done that somewhere). There’s also printed models like this or maybe this that seve the same function. In short, haven’t tried them, but anything that can give you the same measurements repeatedly should do just fine (you can always sound tension one belt, measure it and make the others match the measurement).

Whoops typo, sorry extrusion backers. These guys: steel, titanium

Not super sure about the Tridents being self leveling, I think they are, but it would kinda depend on how they’re wired up (3 independent motors vs all 3 driven off the same control). The 2.4’s are absolutely self leveling though- they do a probe of each corner and adjust the gantry to be as parallel to the bed as you specify( example). From there, they’ll also probe a bed mesh, just to help deal with any deviations in the bed/ plate.

Octopus is the main control board, I think they were used for commonly for a long while, but I don’t have one and can’t speak to it. Mini123864 looks to be the display screen (used for Klipper Screen). You’d probably want to check the Kit contents to see if a Pi is included, but based on those two alone, I’d say probably not.

(Personally, it’s a big part of why I went with the LDO kit, (this is the one I bought. More expensive, but came with high quality parts, minor upgrades, and everything short of the printed parts in the box, plus Fabreeko was running a sale when I bought mine (Voron folks like to Celebrate Clee day (was 5/25 last year) in honor of one of the outstanding community members/ Voron team members (?)/ I’m not actually entirely sure))

Uhh… Slice is not particularly well liked in Voron circles. They are very litigious with their patents, which doesn’t sit well with a crowd that is open source, well, everything (previous comment of mine with more info/ links). I think remember reading somewhere that there might be some bad blood between the Voron team and Slice, but I don’t have a link/ hard proof (beyond the fact that mounts for Slice hotends aren’t officially published with the toolhead files. If your deadset, user mods exist (and slice also sells parts)). Personally, I wasn’t all that impressed with my Mosquito Magnum, especially after I managed to irrecoverably jam the heatbreak (probably my fault. the cooling fan unplugged and heatcreap took care of the rest). Online reviews so Slices customer service was mixed, but generally skewed negative so I pretty much swore them off and wrote the hot end off as a loss (also managed to strip one of the tiny ass m2 screws that hold the thing together trying to take it apart after the aforementioned heatcreap incident). The heater and thermistor were fine- I stuffed them in a Phaetus Dragonfly though (less flow, but a solidly reliable hot end, especially on an Ender 3), and decommissioned them when I noticed that the insulation had worn though on the heater.

On the Voron, I’ve been pretty happy with the Revo High Flow that came with my Kit. Well, other than the fact that nozzle clogs are a nightmare, the cost for replacements, and general lack of availability (they exist, but my go-to vendors are almost always sold out). I haven’t decided to yet (because I don’t particularly want to recalibrate everything), but I have a Phaetus neXt G as a standby if I ever get fed up with the Revo. The Phaetus Rapido is also a popular option.

Haven’t used the Orbiter either. I don’t think I had any major issues with the stock Clockwork (it’s also been a while). I think I mostly swapped in a Galileo 2 (G2E) as a way to keep a spare extruder around in case of emergency. Overall, G2E has been pretty good- prints fine, just a bit annoying to service in the rare event of a jam (I was playing with TPU), and not known to play well with the Box Turtle MMU project that I’m working on, but that’s a problem from future me (after I get it built)…

* I can’t personally vouch for it, but in the spirit of overkill, I should probably also mention the Beacon probe, which is a stupid fast Eddy current sensor (more info here) (replaces the Klicky switch/ inductive probe)

Take this with a massive grain of salt (especially since I bought mostly of my stuff before the tarrif nonsense started), but personally, if I re-buying my machine (or building a second), the order(s) would look something like this

Fabreeko:
- LDO 2.4 350 kit
- Backers, mostly for the discount with machine purchase, but also because I print mostly ABS lately
- Printed parts, I tried to get the ender to print Voron parts and was somewhat successful but I ended up spending more time and money trying. If you don’t have a reliable source for ABS parts it’s absolutely worth the $150
- Aluminum carriage mount, significantly easier to work with the AB belts and get even lengths and tensions. Plus including in the initial build means that you don’t have the re-do the belts to install it (totally doable, just annoying).
Pre-tax, MSRP: $1,686.22 (ideally on sale for a bit of a lower price (the kits don’t tend to get much of a discount, but sometimes they throw in free printed parts or other discounts) and maybe the Clicky Clack door + acrylic if it’s a really good sale)

AliExpress:
- PCB Klicky, x2 to put it over the free shipping limit and for spare parts
total ~$20

To answer your question, Slice stuff off the bat is probably unnecessary. The nice part about Vorons is that everything can be upgraded pretty easily down the road, hopefully because you’ve identified a specific need or reason to upgrade.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
I believe the official Voron recommendation is to build the printer stock first and then upgrade/ mod from there. Which is solid advice, the stock machines are very competent and don’t need upgrades to print well.

The only real day-1 upgrade I’d recommend is called the Klicky switch (or the PCB variant so that you don’t have to do any soldering, just crimping). The stock BoM calls for an inductive probe, which works, but is prone to thermal drift (it gets less accurate as the printer heats up, so you have to do your bed mesh at the same temperature every time). Klicky replaces it with a limit switch- generally more reliable and accurate regardless of temperature.

I might also recommend a belt tension gauge (totally not needed, but more convenient than trying to measure the sound frequency). I use a remix of this one (assembled, kit), but realistically, anything repeatable will do the trick.

Everything beyond that is going to depend heavily on your kit, printer, and needs. For example, the LDO kits actually come with the mechanical parts for the Klicky switch among other nice to haves. Or alternatively, if you’re doing a 350 2.4 and planning on long running enclosed prints (ABS/ASA), extension backers for the flying gantry may be a good idea (the steel linear rails and aluminum have different rates of thermal expansion, which can cause them to bend as the internal volume of the printer warms up), but they’re not especially necessary if you have a smaller printer or only ever work with PLA.

The official Voron discord is also a phenomenal resource. Plus most vendors run their own discord servers for help/ questions (I’m partial to Fabreeko, because their customer service is above and beyond, but West3D is also really good).
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨If you had $1500 to spend⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
The new printer, hands down (unless your goal is to push the viper beyond its limits). That kind of budget puts you far beyond entry level machines, and usually comes with marked improvements in quality, reliability, and speed. For example, with 1.5k you could probably swing one of the big Vorons 2.4 kits on sale (+printed parts), a Trident kit at retail (also with printed parts), or go the out of the box route and comfortably pick up the Core One (or go Bambu if that’s your jam).

For context, I can run prints on my 2.4 what would take something in the neighborhood of 4 times as long on my old ender 3.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Do you know any software development philosophy books?⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨weeks⁩ ago⁩:
I’m a fan of Martin Fowler, I’ve used his blog post on Tech Debt to explain to managers why you can’t just give a 15-year team-killer of an app to a bunch of newbies and expect smooth sailing. His refactoring book is also pretty great. Not necessarily philosophy, or a gripping cover to cover read, but skimming though it as part of a grad school class got me thinking about how I’d refactor my own code and changed my approach to coding (most notably in favoring a series of linq queries/ streams/ es6 array ops, over ugly loops with a tangle of branching logic inside).
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Get your new PebbleOS watch⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨month⁩ ago⁩:
Got a PineTime for Christmas and so far been very pleased with it. I found the PineTimeStyle watchface and it’s been a bit like coming home to Pebble, but I do miss the wide array of watchface choices and effortless customization.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨There Have Been Times I Liked The Villain Dynamics Better⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Actually, now that you mention it, Worm is this to a tee. Worm is still probably one of my favorite reads to date; highly recommend (it’s like a The Boys with less evil corporations and more X-Men)!

spoiler
For all the praise, I’m not entirely sure I liked the ending, but the rest of the book more than makes up for it… I keep telling myself to get around to reading Ward, but so far haven’t had the time to commit to it.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Core One vs. Corona 2.4.⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Also a 2.4 owner, I bought the 350 LDO kit from Fabreeko and it was delivered back in August. Getting it assembled and dialed in was certainly a process, but aside from that it’s been an absolute workhorse (I think I’ve got something like 200+ hours of print time in; completely blows my Thessian Ender out of the water in terms of both speed and reliability). You certainly can tinker with it and make it a project printer, but they print really well stock. The only mod I’d say is anywhere near required is swapping out the magnetic bed meshing sensor, only because the sensor readings tend to drift as the sensor gets hot. You can totally work around it, by waiting for the printer to warm all the way up or cool down to ambient before printing, but I’m impatient plus the mouse switch mod (Klicky) tends to be more reliable and accurate (plus it’s temperature agnostic).

Don’t get me wrong I’ve totally modded mine: swapped out some of the plastic parts for metal ones, added a brush to clean the nozzle before my print (makes for more consistent Z heights), replaced the panel clips with snap latches, but none of it was required to make the printer print better (mostly just to make maintenance easier and partly because it looks cool).
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨let's try this again...⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
The new hotness in the open source MMU space is ArmoredTurtle’s BoxTurtle project, which seeks to be an open source equivalent of the Bambu AMS. I’m still working on the parts for mine, but from everything I’ve seen the build is way less fiddly (and as a result more reliable) than the ERCF.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨let's try this again...⁩ ⁨⁨2⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Seconding kit Vorons. While they certainly aren’t the cheapest option, they aren’t that much more expensive than other higher end core XY machines. Fabreeko* has the 250/300mm Trident kit at 1.2k and 350mm 2.4 at 1.4k + an extra $150 or so for printed parts. Compared to the new Core One at between 950 - 1.2k or the X1C also at 1.2k you’re looking at an extra $150 to 350, but that also comes with build volume increases (both the Prusa and Bambu are at roughly 250 mm³). Definitely wouldn’t recommend them as a first printer, but Vorons are shining examples of what’s possible with open source (and they’re absolute workhorses too).

* Highly recommend them with glowing praise for being all around fantastic (they also run sales on the regular, though kit deals are usually reserved for special occasions like black Friday, or Clee day)
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨With Core ONE, Prusa's Open Source Hardware Dream Quietly Dies | Hackaday⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
True, you can have a quality closed source product (look at Bamboo or Stratasys), it’s more lamenting than at one point Prusa was THE open source die hard (and that’s earned them a fair bit of goodwill in a community that generally respects that (on account of only existing because of open source culture)).

Needing to make money is completely valid and understandable, which is what makes this less of an outright outrage and more of an “I’m not angry, I’m just disappointed” kind of situation.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨With Core ONE, Prusa's Open Source Hardware Dream Quietly Dies | Hackaday⁩ ⁨⁨5⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Agreed, it’s nice to see Prusa put up a modern consumer printer, but for the price I didn’t see anything in the announcement that would make it easier to recommend over the bamboo for the “I need it to just work” folks or the SV08/ voron for the folks that like to tinker (and value not living in a walled garden, Sovol’s hot end/ nozzles not withstanding).

Having just built an LDO 2.4 kit a few months ago, I have no regrets. The 350 kit + printed forward parts weren’t that much more expensive than what this is slated to retail at, but I get a comparatively massive build volume, nerd cred, and the open source nature means that I can tweak, mod, or otherwise upgrade to my hearts content, from being able to run whatever hot end/ extruder I damn well please, to custom parts (hell, I’ve already swapped the tool head mount for Vitalii’s metal one- not quite the COTS ethos of the voron design, but about a thousand times easier line up and tension, worth every penny), or more complicated projects like ERCF or Box Turtle.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨OrcaSlicer V2.2.0 Official Release⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
I mostly switched for the interface, it feels far more modern and easy to navigate compared to Cura and Prusa (while retaining all but the most bleeding edge features from each). Still not perfect, but I’ve found it to be leagues better at managing and swapping between multiple printers/ nozzles/ materials. It has native calibration tools for everything from temperature towers to flow rates and pressure advance. Plus it plays very nicely with Klipper. I haven’t used it a bunch on account of not being wholly set up for it, but multi color printing is also super easy. It’s kind of dumb, but I appreciate that updates actually update the app instead on installing a new instance (that I’ll have to go uninstall later, looking at you Cura) so that my “send to print utility” button in Fusions always just works. Updates also seem more substantial with meaningful features (things like scarf joints to hide layer lines come to mind), you can very much feel the love that community has poured into it. It’s open source software in all the best ways possible.

I was pretty sold after Teaching Tech’s video last year, but a number of other channels (Lost in Tech comes to mind as well) have also done Orca slicer videos if you’re looking for reasons to give it a try.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨OrcaSlicer V2.2.0 Official Release⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Orca is forked from Bambo’s slicer which is in turn forked from prusa slicer.
⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Amazon tech workers leaving for other jobs in response to return to office mandate⁩ ⁨⁨7⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:
Enh, the tech space is very much innovate or die. So yeah, they could probably throw everything in maintenance mode and make a reduced headcount work, but if AWS goes stagnant it’s entirely likely that Amazon goes the way of IBM and Motorol. Especially when someone (likely, Microsoft or Google) comes to take a slice of the AWS market share.