Anyone got ideas on how to fix this bulging issue with thin prints?

Comments

• Lasherz12@lemmy.world ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  It looks like the effects of heat warping if it’s all confined to the middle. First step is to allow the bed to heat up longer imo. The center might holding heat better or worse than the rest and needs longer to equalize. Is your printer enclosed? If so that should solve it. If it’s not then you may have excessive airflow across the bed.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨5⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks for the reply. The bed already gets way more time than it needs to heat up so that part is fine. Printing it a lot slower will probably help equalize temperature tho. I’ll try that and we’ll see if it works.

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• faebudo@infosec.pub ⁨3⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  You could try to print it with draft shield. It’s a single walled enclosure around print area which will help to have an even heat distribution. It should be an option in your slicer.

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• Shadow@lemmy.ca ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  On top of the other suggestions, turn off any cooling fans you can.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks, i’ll try that.

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• empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨4⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  Larger nozzle.

  Dead-ass. It will be heavier but single wall printing almost never goes well unless it’s a vasemode part or you’re using a minimum 0.8mm nozzle.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨4⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks, but unfortunately i only have a 0.2 nozzle. Solid walls beyond 0.5mm in thickness border on impractical for an airplane anyway. I had success printing walls as thin as 0.15mm, but that only works with at least a little bit of infill, if i have to make it heavier i would rather just do that.

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    • it_depends_man@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      impractical for an airplane

      Depending on how much effort you’re willing to put in, I would suggest switching material.

      Use fiber reinforced plastic.

      The process can be done at home, though you may need some practice. You can print the shape you want with a thicker wall thickness and then use that as a negative. You get the best results if you have a compressor and can use vaccum techniques to get the excess plastic out of the material. This will put you in the thickness space you want, and it will still work, and you don’t have warping problems.

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• Gork@sopuli.xyz ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  Usually for delicate things like this I try to slow the speed way down and just let it go overnight. I don’t know if that’ll help fix this particular issue though.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨5⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks for sharing. I had the speed set pretty high for all my attempts so this could be it. I’ll update the post when it finishes.

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• PattyMcB@lemmy.world ⁨5⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  I would recommend redesigning the print if at all possible. Slicing a model of those dimensions is difficult in the best of circumstances.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨5⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks for the recommendation. I can freely redesign it, but i don’t think slicing is causing any issues here. FreeCAD has no problem creating thin meshes and Orca Slicer correctly generates just a single smooth curve for every layer.

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• MrTolkinghoen@lemmy.zip ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  No expert in this specific type of print, but:

  I’m sure you already have, but: make sure your calibrations are perfect, of course. Esp volumetric speed, but also I highly recommend adaptive pressure advance calibration. Prolly not gonna help here, but worth it anyway.

  Given the height, is it possible to design 2 2d walls offset by .1 - .2mm? That way it’s sandwiched between 2 walls. Kind of like the gap a vertical support gives, but this is horizontal. The (sandwich) bread walls, if you will, need to be thicker so that as you add vertical height it acts as the support. That’s the only thing I can think of. Printing such a tall / thin object unsupported in any way feels super hard. Also maybe could just do vertical towers of support vs doing a ton more filament for a full sandwich.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨5⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks for the suggestions. I could definitely add some perpendicular supports to stabilize the print, but don’t want to do that except as a last resort since i know for certain that my printer is capable of the precision needed here. I will probably do that if the other ideas don’t work.

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• fuckwit_mcbumcrumble@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨7⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

  If I had to guess I’d say cooling. What filament are you using, what print temp, and what fan speed? And more importantly where is the printer?

  Creality makes a little tent for the Ender 3 and it helped with a lot of inconsistent prints I was getting. In winter time the printer was in a super cold room and bigger prints would warp. But just normal airflow in a room can cause enough of a temp difference to warp big prints like that. If you can shield the sides of your printer with something that might help.

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  • NoFood4u@sopuli.xyz ⁨6⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

    Thanks for helping. It’s PLA at 210C, 60C bed temp, with an enclosure. The whole thing finishes in just 1.5h and is 25cm high so new layers might be getting placed before the ones below had time to cool down. I’ll try it slowed down and update the post when it’s done.

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    • fhein@lemmy.world ⁨3⁩ ⁨hours⁩ ago

      You mean with a closed enclosure? Maybe try printing with it open then, PLA generally want as much cooling as you can muster. I don’t have an enclosure myself, but I’ve heard that some people who do have to print with their doors open when using PLA.

      Also does it print straight, and then later start bulging while its printing other layers on top? Or did it print the bulge that way?

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