Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper

Comments

• GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  I’d call that oozing more than stringing, but they’re nearly the same issue. It’s leaking out after retracting, still some in the hot zone. I’m struggling with it too. The best mitigation I’ve found is to lower temperature.

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  • Rangelus@lemmy.nz ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Yeah lower temps work, but I’m really trying to max out my flow rate so I want to run it as high as possible. Pressure advance really helps reduce ooze, and quality filament is obviously a must.

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    • woefkardoes@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      Its a balancing act so if you are only upping the temperature to get higher flow but not the speeds to use that higher flow then there will be some issues. Each filament also has different temperature and flow characteristics so just because the new filament works with the current settings doesn’t mean the old filament was junk.

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• dansity@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Turn off z-hop. When you use zhop the nozzle elevates and it cannot wipe itself. When zhop is off the nozzle wipes itself with the top layer. I know this might be a pre-sliced test but in real life scenario you can make the wall first and the infill last so any minor stringing remaining will be inside the object. As well the obligatory filament drying.

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  • Rangelus@lemmy.nz ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    Thanks for your reply, I will give that a go.

    After posting I thought to try a different brand of filament. It’s currently printing, so we’ll see how it goes.

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    • rambos@lemm.ee ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

      Yeah both new filament and no zhop might help. Also check travel speed, use 100-150 or more to reduce stringing. You said you want higher flow, but lowering temp can help a lot

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  • nezbyte@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    This is a delta printer, z-hop should be much faster than a traditional bed-slinger and leave much less stringing. Personally, I run z-hop enabled 95% of the time unless I know the objects don’t need it.

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• natebluehooves@pawb.social ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Could be moisture in the filament contributing.

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  • Rangelus@lemmy.nz ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    In the end it was crap quality filament.

    I keep my spools in a dehumidifier which I actually think is too dry. Some of the filament was brittle for the first 6" or so.

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• MrQuallzin@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Here’s the retraction calibration test I use retractioncalibration.com

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  • Rangelus@lemmy.nz ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    That site doesn’t load for me. I have just been using a retraction tower and running the tuning function from the command line.

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• x4740N@lemmy.world ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Honestly the first one looks cool and you should put it on display

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• Majawat@lemm.ee ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

  Ugh, I’m also having the problem. I’m using eSUN PLA+ in black and white. I’ve even dried them out 12+ hours and store them in a waterproof box with desiccant.

  I’m at my wit’s end trying to figure out why it’s stringing so badly. None of my other rolls before these did it.

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  • Rangelus@lemmy.nz ⁨8⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago

    What temperature are you printing at? When I was using Marlin I ran mine at about 200, and could probably have gone even lower. I also tuned linear advance which made a big difference.

    I have found that some esun spools weren’t particularly dry when I got them. They sit in my dehumidifier which sits at about 20%, so they get dry eventually.

    You can try coasting as well I think.

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