Rangelus

@Rangelus@lemmy.nz

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I’ve had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I’m pretty sure the filament is dry!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨[Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicer⁩ ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩:

  I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

  I’ve generally had the best results with it. Ironically, before the upgrades I had almost no stringing.

  I’m using a 0.4mm nozzle. I probably should have mentioned in the OP that I didn’t have problems before, but the upgrades have happened in addition to moving to Orcaslicer.

  Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

• [Troubleshooting] Big stringing problem with flsun SR and Orcaslicerlemmy.nz ↗
  Submitted ⁨⁨6⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩ | ⁨6⁩ ⁨comments⁩
• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Thanks. I’ll try that.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Hmm yes, good points. I’ll have another go with the previous filament.

  To be fair, I need to replace the extruder and get a high flow nozzle anyway, which I think will make more difference to the flow rate than running hot.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  What temperature are you printing at? When I was using Marlin I ran mine at about 200, and could probably have gone even lower. I also tuned linear advance which made a big difference.

  I have found that some esun spools weren’t particularly dry when I got them. They sit in my dehumidifier which sits at about 20%, so they get dry eventually.

  You can try coasting as well I think.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah lower temps work, but I’m really trying to max out my flow rate so I want to run it as high as possible. Pressure advance really helps reduce ooze, and quality filament is obviously a must.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  That site doesn’t load for me. I have just been using a retraction tower and running the tuning function from the command line.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  In the end it was crap quality filament.

  I keep my spools in a dehumidifier which I actually think is too dry. Some of the filament was brittle for the first 6" or so.

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Yeah it was rubbish filament. Switched it out for some esun PLA+ and got much better results. I’ve updated my post, but final settings are:

  Pressure Advance - 0.4 Retraction - 3.5mm Retraction speed - 35mm/s

  Very happy with the results!

• ⁨Comment⁩ on ⁨Help with stringing after shifting to Klipper⁩ ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩:

  Thanks for your reply, I will give that a go.

  After posting I thought to try a different brand of filament. It’s currently printing, so we’ll see how it goes.

• Help with stringing after shifting to Klipperlemmy.nz ↗
  Submitted ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩ | ⁨18⁩ ⁨comments⁩