Submitted 3 weeks ago by Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/6fc4fef8-639e-4a5f-8c90-07d88e8ce99a.jpeg
After tuning my vref, the printer was missing steps still. I pulled the trigger and am swapping from the 4.2.2 to the 4.2.7 creality board to see if that resolves the issue.
While i was in there, I figured I’d put another z axis motor on there.
Do you guys have any recommendations on firmware or should I just stick with creality’s?
The marlin build from creality is fine but klipper is another option if you’ve got a raspberry pi or an unused PC lying around.
Thank you!
I have a pi 4b running octoprint hooked up. Is there any advantage to going the klipper route?
In theory it shouldn’t mater if i use 4.2.2 firmware on the 4.2.7 board right?
Is there any advantage to going the klipper route?
The advantages are innumerable of you are a tinkerer (it looks like you are). If you just want your printer to print stuff and that’s that, marlin is fine, but if you want to get serious about tuning and modifying your printer, Klipper is an inevitability.
Think about the QOL improvement that octoprint provided over running your SD card back and forth from PC to printer. Klipper is that x1000. Write macros to automate things like filament swaps, chamber heating, build plate clearing. Change every aspect of any behavior of the printer by modifying a .cfg file (rather than recompiling marlin firmware.bin files). There’s plugins for Cura to send your g-code directly to the printer (with octoprint you save the file to your PC then upload to octo, with Klipper there’s just a button in Cura to send directly to the printer and start printing).
In short, the only reason to use marlin is “it came on the printer and I don’t have the knowledge to set up Klipper”. Klipper is just better in every way. It’ll take you a couple hours to set up (you have a popular with lots of premade configurations available online), and from the moment you get it going, you’ll wonder what took you so long.
PM me if you have any questions.
If you’re sticking with Marlin, I’ve been very happy with the “professional” firmware. The configurator is pretty easy to set up if you change any hardware like a new bltouch or new hotend if that’s your thing.
Yes, as an alternative to klipper -this really is your end goal - use the firmware by mriscoc, it is really nice and robust.
Gives you more options and the results are better than the stock fw.
Make sure to rinse the new one off on the sink before you pop it in!
Instructions unclear, I’ve given the whole printer a bath and now all it does is blow bubbles
I actually worked at a facility where we really did thoroughly clean (inkjet) printers since the customer returns would get NASTY.
Some of the electronics, like those on the printer head, are actually fine with a good rinsing as long as you then thoroughly dry them off with the air hose.
This surely does not transfer to modern 3D printers.
Nice kitchen island you got there
Thank you! Its the perfect size for things like this
SmoochyPit@lemmy.ca 3 weeks ago
If you’re feeling adventurous, you could compile Marlin yourself. I did it to use a pin as an “off” signal for my fans, but ended up tinkering with options like linear advance. The set up isn’t too hard, but you need vscode.
Koopa_Khan@lemmy.world 3 weeks ago
I appreciate your confidence in me, but I don’t think up for trying to learn how to deal with it. I don’t do well with troubleshooting firmware/software when things go tits up
Manzas@lemdro.id 3 weeks ago
It is really easy just follow the marlin docs.