I've never had such good prints. Replaced my warped ass Ender3S1 bed with a mirror.

Comments

• Dkarma@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

  Stop buying enders they’re complete shit.

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  • directive0@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    You can have my ender 3 when you pry it from my cold dead hands.

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  • bdonvr@thelemmy.club ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    Thanks I’ll warp back a few years and tell myself that.

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  • Schmeckinger@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    The cheapest printer is the one you already own.

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• jetsetdorito@lemm.ee ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

  you can get official glass beds

  www.amazon.com/…/B07RD6D2ZQ

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• adhocfungus@midwest.social ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

  That looks great. How did get such good adhesion? My bed is super uneven so I switched to glass and had incredible results, but I have to babysit the first few layers because 50% of the prints are wrapped around the nozzle by the end.

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  • fhein@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.

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  • bdonvr@thelemmy.club ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    I dunno, I use a mirror tile heated to 60⁰C. TPU and PLA seem to stick just fine. Have you tuned your first layer height?

    I also give it a good scrub with isopropyl between prints.

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• MrQuallzin@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

  Looks like nice even pressure, good job! It looks like you’re underextruding a bit though

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• Pissman2020@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

  I swapped to glass a few years ago and the things I have learned since are that glass that’s too thick will cause you issues with bed temperature, and you can print PETG on it so long as you can guarantee you’ll be there when the print finishes to release it with IPA or you’ll have chunks of glass missing from your build plate. I got a G10 build plate 2 days ago and sofar I’m liking it more than glass

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  • adhocfungus@midwest.social ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    I had to preheat for 20 minutes when I was using a glass bed. Took ages but the results were so smooth.

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    • Pissman2020@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

      When I went to glass it took me an embarrassingly long time to realize I needed to up my bed temp by 10° if I wanted good adhesion

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  • qwertilliopasd@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago

    A thin layer of glue stick kept petg from bonding to glass for me, but a nice thick layer of G10 is better as long as you heat soak it before printing. I roughed mine up with some sandpaper and haven’t had any issues. Just remember good ppe when working with fiberglass.

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