j4k3
@j4k3@lemmy.world
- Comment on Abandoned FOSS projects 3 days ago:
Complex social hierarchy is a super important aspect to account for too. In the proprietary software realm, you infer confidence in the accumulated wealth hierarchy. In FOSS the hierarchy is not wealth, but reputation like in academia or the film industry. If some company in Oman makes some really great proprietary app, are you going to build your European startup over top of it? Likewise, if in FOSS someone with no reputation makes some killer app, the first question to ask is whether this is going to anchor or support a stellar reputation. Maybe they are just showing off skills to land a job. If that is the case, they are just like startups that are only looking to get bought up quickly by some bigger fish. We are all conditioned to think in terms of horded wealth as the only form of hierarchy, but that is primitive. If all the wealth was gone, humans are still fundamentally complex social animals, and will always establish a complex hierarchy. This is one of the spaces where it is different.
- Comment on mega disappointment 4 days ago:
It ain’t bad till in the middle things… or the night, ya wind up somehow tasting it.
- Comment on Is it actually healthy for people to have a place to confess things anonymously? 5 days ago:
It is democratic. You have a right to all information, the right to error, the right to skepticism, and the right to protest in all nonviolent forms aka the right to offend others.
In this regime of rights, the right to skepticism is the fundamental. You have a tight to think for yourself. Authoritarianism is the opposite. Trust is its fulcrum and individual thought, belief, and access to information are not rights of individuals.
You cannot have democracy and citizens without outlets of free expression of all types. There is no way to know if some group is in collusion or spreading misinformation for various purposes. Having the right to anonymously express and check concerns in the public commons is absolutely critical to democracy. Any attempt to remove it is an attack on skepticism, the fundamental cornerstone of democracy that if removed causes total collapse.
- Comment on If Programmers are wizards then what are Computer Architects? 1 week ago:
NDA’s
- Submitted 2 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 0 comments
- Comment on Wanted: Printed Mug Handle 2 weeks ago:
I have no confidence it will work or last. I’m not committing to anything either, but at a minimum I need the flattest image possible, meaning a square lens to object from a distance where perspective distortion is minimized. The largest camera sensor (silicon die) will produce the flattest image with less perspective distortion. Each image must contain a known measurement, such as a little machinist’s ruler or other. The point here is that the lines of known measurement must be as close to single pixel accurate as possible. I will not take the time to straiten or correct for errors, - if I have the time and feel like making something. The result will likely be ugly and might not work or last. I need to know the angles and sizes of those protrusions to utilize them like a dovetail. I do not trust anyone’s measurements, especially my own, and I have no desire to dial you up for the ‘measure thrice print twice, measure once unfinished dunce’ - rule. I need the Cartesian planes of X, Y, and Z, (right, front, top) at a minimum.
I probably do not have time within my project, but if I’m bored and waiting on a long print, maybe.
- Comment on worry kitten 2 weeks ago:
🐈⬛
- Comment on Just one more square bro 2 weeks ago:
Gate all around. I expect my waffle and syrup to hug each other. No one likes a lethargic partner.
- Comment on Creality Ender 3VE Fan Noise 2 weeks ago:
The cheapest fans available often have a lot of injection molded plastic that squeezes out of the gaps of the metal mold when the plastic parts are formed. Removing this may help some.
The cheapest fans now come with the small motor shaft embedded into the frame with a tiny ball of metal formed at the end of the shaft. The ball is what prevents the shaft and fan blade portion from coming out of the housing. This type of bearing and retention cause more friction than a design that uses a bushing and a small plastic retainer ring. They type with the retainer ring are usually floating in the magnetic field. The little plastic retainer ring on the shaft end is only present in cases where the fan is dropped causing more force than the magnetic field will hold onto. If a person such as yourself, presses on this type of fan at the fan blade hub, you will feel the magnetic field and see the hub deflect and then return to the center of the field. Spinning it will feel frictionless. With the ball shaft type, there is little deflection and it feels like a bit more friction when comparing two side by side.
With the ball shaft type, most of the noise will be coming from the friction and transmitted through the body of the enclosure. If you isolate the fan with some damping between it and the enclosure it will reduce the noise considerably. Damping the enclosure, and adding rubber feet between any table or surface may also help.
- Comment on The USA's economy is based on letting children decide what they want to do with money that isn't theirs 2 weeks ago:
It is the failure of a system of inherited wealth. Intelligence is not hereditary in humans. Inherited wealth has no meritocratic order. A lack of meritocracy is terminal cancer. Any inheritance beyond a trust fund for life covering an upper middle class life is the issue. Solve this one issue and it removes every problem name you know. Japan already solved this problem politically. You do not know the names of any Japanese problem billionaires. It is not a coincidence.
- Comment on What brings you peace in your life? 3 weeks ago:
gas lighting, the effulgence of a burning future.
- Comment on If there is a doctor that only saves killers, and a killer only kills other killers, I wonder who would save/kill more people? 3 weeks ago:
military hospital doc versus special forces… Doc’s more effective.
- Comment on Oi mates, I'm back. 3 weeks ago:
Gold of the gods. We are all spaceships for the microbes.
- Comment on Discord delays global age verification rollout after backlash - Dexerto 3 weeks ago:
Is fluxer as network f’ed up as Discord without the minimum democratic standard of human readable domains, or is it the slavery of dozens of undocumented raw IP addresses?
- Submitted 3 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 1 comment
- Comment on Sometimes I wonder if my older brother and I both were in grave danger, who would my parents save first... 🤔 3 weeks ago:
Who would you want them to save first?
- Comment on Nevermind the drink I'm holding 3 weeks ago:
My ex wife. Bitch
- Comment on Cup cake 3 weeks ago:
- Comment on Why do I look like shit some days? 3 weeks ago:
Becoming a roadie and riding a bike everywhere for years fixed me feeling like this. I had to get over all of my insecurities being in public in a cycling kit. Being around other people riding and racing, it became my normal. Now… I don’t have to look at me, so why the fuck should I care what anyone thinks. They are used to it or whatever, who cares. I’m more interested in inferring their real intelligence versus narcissistic stupidity based on their responses. Old people are all ugly. “For your age” is just an excuse for it. The vanity is boring. People who are judgmental are just projecting their own inadequacy and internal misery.
- Comment on What books have a lot of useful information should I get? (I mean like a Wikipedia thing with vast knowledge, but non-electronic.) 3 weeks ago:
Chemistry, math, physics, optics, metallurgy… The thing that is hard is how your needs for knowledge will change over time and what is accessible to you at each stage.
For general electronics, The Art of Electronics is the goto book. For actually understanding practical stuff, you need to build a knowledge of the industrial revolution and how it evolved. The inventions of James Watt opened up steam. The Bessemer process scaled iron. Large heavy castings drove the potential for large lathes, but lathes are the key to everything. A lathe is capable of cutting a more precise screw than the one used to operate it. That old screw can be replaced with the new, until you achieve your desired precision.
A reference flat is made using two granite stones rubbed together with water in between until the top one creates suction that can lift the other.
Prussian blue and hand scraping are used to make machine flat surfaces.
Automotive suspension components like springs and torsion bars are a good source of cheap tool steel. Engine heads are a good source of casting scrap and quality hardware. Wipers, window motors, and starters are great for building machines. Understanding how to repair and diagnose this stuff is a major skill. Knowing how to make real controlled heat is fundamentally important.
I’ve never encountered single sources for this stuff.
- Comment on Question: Humidity controlled cabinet 4 weeks ago:
My experience may or may not apply here… In automotive paint refinishing back 15+ years ago, 2 part epoxy primers are special. Most primers are (were) 2k urethane. These are similar to automotive 2k clearcoat in how they work. They both have similar thicknesses, leveling after wet coats, and to a lesser extent - drying properties. With drying properties, the surface levels within a minute or so but it forms a surface film and the back side remains tacky for longer. (Where they differ is that clearcoat takes much longer to fully cure, like weeks to months, while primer is workable within an hour or less.) Epoxy primers are high build fillers. They get hard as a rock and are a pain in the ass to sand down. The two main reasons for using an epoxy are for super rough large surfaces, and this the the relevant bit here, they are used to seal the surface.
In paint, there are a ton of nightmare situations. Like let’s say some brake fluid got on the paint in a crash, or some idiot used rattle can enamel on a car. Often what happens is that the repair I am doing is not the first time the panel has been repaired. While I would like to clean the issue completely and use typical 2k primers, the previous repair may have used epoxy and buried something terrible. I’m not going to strip the whole panel and have to spray additional adjacent panels to color match when I did not estimate this in the cost quote. Epoxy seals out EVERYTHING. With stuff like spray can enamel, the painted surface never cures. It remains reactive to the solvent of anything sprayed on top of it. If ABS trim or bumper covers are exposed to acetone, similar issues with reactions will happen, unless 2 part epoxy primer is used. Epoxy primer is impermeable in the context of automotive paint; it is the nuclear option. Everything else allows some solvents to pass through it over time.
If you have ever touched the paint of new cars and noticed the softness, that is uncured clearcoat that is still venting solvents in small quantities. This is also why jams painting inside of the seals is kept to a minimum clearcoat thickness. The thicker the clear, the longer it will take to fully cure. As an ex pro painter, that softness tells me a lot about a finish too. It actually starts forming around 5 minutes after the clear is shot, just after the fingerprint test does not pull a string when removed. That is the first moment when I am able to barely graze the surface with fingertips and not damage the surface. It is still very wet underneath at this stage.
Hopefully that illustrates how even the hardest of painted surfaces is still able to allow stuff to pass through it. If you want to stop that stuff, you need a paint that is made specifically to seal everything.
That said, the seals and other materials also need to be up for the task. Most of those are likely just dust seals. How you deal with corners is critical. Just look at stuff like Pelican cases.
- Comment on Little reverse engineering project - road bike indexed shifting designed to print 4 weeks ago:
Yeah. Got a kit of it from a thrift store years ago and try to use it in jigs to save printing when possible… 4.3mm bolt holes, 7×2.3mm square nut slots and 12.7mm pitch. I have it and M3 memorized.
- Submitted 4 weeks ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 5 comments
- Comment on Does Prusas textured sheet...work at all? 1 month ago:
It is just a cleanliness standard. It is not required. I spent a decade in the details of automotive paint. I only covered the surface basics for paint. What I call clean for paint is an order of magnitude more dirty than a surgeon, and they are orders of magnitude more dirty than a silicon chip foundry. When it comes to making plastic stick and look pretty, an automotive painter might be helpful for framing the scope of what is possible. All I can tell you is I have a Prusa and never have these problems, so I explained my experience and methodology as to why I do as I said. Again, sorry this upsets you.
- Comment on Does Prusas textured sheet...work at all? 1 month ago:
I have not had problems with glass or PEI. Your other comments indicate you tried ABS. That will never work without an enclosure, and even then, it will not work particularly well on any Cartesian machine. Sorry that illustrative examples and abstractive reasoning are offensive to you.
- Comment on Does Prusas textured sheet...work at all? 1 month ago:
It can coat the inside of the drier. Use Bounty paper towels as a control when in question. Bounty are often uses in automotive paint shops for a few reasons, but they are trustworthy for composition. If the two plies are separated, they make a good strain filter. That is the primary reason they are used. They also tend to be lower lint though not perfect. A tack cloth is used in the booth with controlled filtered air flow either across or down draft, so it is not a concern for perfect paint.
One of the tricks of automotive painting is to add a couple of drops of Palmolive dish soap to the water bucket used with wet sanding. It makes 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpaper last several times longer and acts as a mild degreaser the whole time. Any residue is cleaned in the booth stage using a special Wax and Grease Remover solvent that is the least reactive of the painting solvents. While this solvent is used extensively, still the fact that Palmolive dish soap can be used at all indicates how it is clean, consistent, and chemically irrelevant. Automotive paint reacts with many chemicals but specifically silicon is the worst problem. It causes fisheyes aka little divot like holes to form in the clearcoat. In most situations involving contamination and adhesion, silicon is the main issue that will be very persistent. It is so bad in automotive paint that in the worst cases, we turn to adding an actual silicon solution into the 2k clearcoat and trying to guess what concentration will match the problem area to level it. Otherwise, the entire job must be stripped to the raw surface and start over. Silicon issues only show up in the final wet clearcoat layer shortly after it is sprayed and leveled.
The reason why I have written all of this is to illustrate this point: the silicon is essentially floating on every underlying layer. The solvent has wet the area and the silicon just floats to the top of some filler, 2k primer, sealer, top coat color and when it gets to the clearcoat it blows a hole through it. There are two solutions. Use a two part epoxy primer that is a pain in the ass to sand, or clean the the raw surface with lacquer thinner or virgin acetone. In automotive paint, those two solvents are dangerous for causing a ton of other contamination and reactions issues. However, these are the only solvents that will take off silicon without diluting it and making the problem worse. Alcohol is a joke with no place in the automotive paint world when I was painting. I got out before water based stuff ruined the industry by making refinishing exponentially more expensive. That is only the color coat and some primers, so there may be alcohol used in some way in these, but it will not involve cleaning. Tire shine is the main source of silicon issues in automotive paint.
I have the empirical experience to know what I am looking at with cleaning and solvents. Alcohol is okay for minor issues, but think of it as constantly diluting and wiping the problem across the whole surface. Eventually, just use some virgin acetone to actually clean the thing properly. Paint is just plastic too. Each type requires a different type of tooth to mechanically bond to. With printing, I use 600 grit to lightly knock the shine off of the print plate surface. I go lighter on the textured sheet, but I only use the textured sheet with PETG because it is the only one that takes the textured pattern completely without showing layer lines. I print weekly on average, and use acetone and sandpaper around once a year. When I use glue stick, I clean the plate with dish soap after. I use alcohol in between. You will need an enclosure for ASA, ABS, and any larger PC prints regardless of the sheet or glue. Two IKEA Lack tables with legs stacked using double sided screws, then a clear shower curtain liner, and some tack nails does the job for under $50.
I would never use towels from any drier that has ever had fabric softener used in it for automotive paint. That is a contamination nightmare for me.
- Comment on Priming and sealing a painted print 1 month ago:
PLA will be better for hardware store and hobby junk. You cannot use automotive class finishes and expect them to last. Generally stick to one brand. Most paints are formulated for steel. ABS is the closest to steel in thermal properties. The expansion is the most important attribute. PLA has a different thermal profile so catalysed 2-part paints will not work very well long term. Rattle can enamel is junk by comparison, but it never fully cures like automotive paints. That property helps it stay in place longer in general. There are special adhesion promoters like bulldog for automotive stuff, but the thermal properties will still be an issue.
Pro automotive paint is 99.9% sanding and prep work. It is far more intense and rigorous than people realize. Perfection happens in the prep work. The actual paint is just a way of showing off that perfection. Mastering automotive paint is actually all about defeating yourself. Perfection is not subject to your emotions or expectations. It is right when it is perfect.
You want the highest pressure spray cans as possible. Also, if you do not used all of the can at once, flip it upside down and clear the nozzle by letting the siphon into the empty void and spraying. If you have a compressor that does not shoot out a bunch of oil or water, a cheap Harbor Freight pink gun with the nozzle of the can beside the spray gun will work wonders by atomizing the spray far more effectively.
- Comment on An Company(ies) that Converts Classic Automobiles to Automobiles with Solar Panels Built into Their Skins? 1 month ago:
I haven’t kept up with things, but that has to be like bicycle level light and lab conditions. I remember people talking about bicycling with solar and the required area was the size of a pickup truck just to power a basic hundred pound-ish touring kit, and even then it was only pedal assist on a cloudy day or hills. That was only 10-13 years ago. The main issue is that panels are not in any way optimally directional in practice. I expect 40 miles is down hill from the continental divide on I40, after parking the thing in the beam of a solar molten salt energy storage array for a day, during peak solar storm activity, but the fuck if I know bugger all. I know Dave did the math about one of the cars back when he was looking at various EVs. IIRC, no solar panels are more than 30% efficient, most are around 20-25% under optimal conditions. Then you half that or more when they are not directional. That gives a best case baseline for the energy they can produce based upon the sun’s output. I know panels have been improving, but we are well past any large scale optimizations and into the phase of scaling production to reduce cost. Do you know what they claim to have changed?
- Comment on An Company(ies) that Converts Classic Automobiles to Automobiles with Solar Panels Built into Their Skins? 1 month ago:
I think we may have a language barrier here. Solar panels on a car are a gimmick. They do not do not make significant energy to power the vehicle or change the batteries. The panels made are a sales gimmick to influence people that do not understand the technology and scales of the system. This is like putting the solar cell for a calculator onto an electric bicycle as an equivalent ratio of size and scope. The calculator runs on 3 milliwatts and the bike needs 300 watts.
- Comment on Those of you who are angry at the US for allowing ICE to stifle people's liberties - how do you channel your anger and irritation? 1 month ago:
