bryndos

You can buy (semi)transparent or translucent shower curtains that already have eyelets in them - at least round my way.

I'd definitely reinforce the holes, Especially if it will be moving around, or getting tugged open / closed regularly.

Maybe fold over a hem and glue it, or tape wrapped round the edge on both sides wherever a hole will be. Ideally you’d have metal or plastic eyelets in plane with the curtain, that the rings then pass through.

If you don't have a hole punch big enough for the eyelets then you might be able to use the eyelets themselves to cut their own holes. Assuming they’re two part metal thingd. put them in place on both sides and apply a clamp or two at the edges of the rings, gradually tighten and see if the rings are sharp enough to cut though, without getting too crushed . if not you could run a scalpel round inside the eyelet.

Of course any glue, tape, cutting method should be tested on some scrap material.

Melting through with a hot poker / soldering iron (even a cigarette) is another possibility, but might be hard to control, and messy / toxic fumes to consider, again a clamped on metal eyelet might set a boundary to the melt.

yes.
Brace and bits,
screwdriver,
hammer + chisel,
a few hand planes
a few handsaws
axe.

These tools' biological battery power source can be easily re-charged on the go by inserting waste vegetable matter.
Lubricate regularly with beer (or other fermented waste vegetable matter).

That's what i mostly use; I'm dealing with wood mostly though - and of course i do it in order to pass time, not to make up rent, so slower is just fine for me.

Scythe is worth having just for the coolness of the word - unfortunately I don't have any use for one.
Adze would be another good one I'd like to find cheap and sharpen up.

But I'll grant the power tools awkward situations like up a ladder, stretching over precariously, a battery drill one handed can be useful.'

If you want tools to run off a wire, independent of battery, I'd suggest just buy mains powered tools with built in cords. It's not worth the hassle - sorry that's not a very diy answer. I think you'd find most diy tool projects would just use mains rated motors and such.

The power requirements is sort of the reason battery tools take a lot longer to charge than to run down (continuous).

Since you need approximately mains level power, then you need mains rated connectors, or probably even fatter wires depending on how much current there'll be down at 20V. The tool itself probably has thermal cutoff(s) somewhere in it if it overheats, so you don't want wires or connectors generating too much heat where that thermal cutoff won't detect it.

I'd assume you don't want to add a mains AC:DC 20V 20A converter into the "hand" tool side of the cable so that probably means thicker cables.

Mains powered tools are just designed better to do this @110/220V~. It keeps the current down so you can have thinner, lighter, longer more flexible wire.

Better just limit the USB to top up the battery at lower power.
The battery would still deplete in use, but you'd be topping it up in between.