kale
@kale@lemmy.zip
- Comment on what budget 3d printer would you suggest for a beginner? 1 year ago:
Look at Sovol or Anycubic in that price range. I don’t have direct experience with either. A good friend of mine had two Anycubics at one point last year and he said they were easier than his Creality.
- Comment on what budget 3d printer would you suggest for a beginner? 1 year ago:
My third printer, I paid $70 for, used (ender 3 pro return). It was missing several small components, one big part (top aluminum extrusion) that required some machining with a drill press, and had a bad thermistor.
I don’t think you can get a beginning printer for $100 unfortunately. Sovol and Anycubic make printers among the cheapest that are more beginner friendly (I think) than Ender, for roughly the same price. I have a friend with a Creality and an Anycubic Vyper, and the Vyper seems to be more beginner-friendly. I have two Crealitys and I love them, but both required a ton of modifications to become reliable.
Can you check your area for a local maker space? My local library has 3D printers for anyone under 18. Universities typically have a few of different technologies (SLS, SLA, FDM)
- Comment on One year after being bought for $44 billion, X is worth $19 billion 1 year ago:
There are methodical ways of valuating a private (and public) company. Some are pessimistic and some are wildly optimistic. Your can legally use whichever one you want, only you must only use that valuation method for everything. It’s illegal to value the company low for taxes and high for loan collateral. And if you sell it, you can owe back taxes if your valuation was off (sale price is the new valuation).
This is overly-simplified US accounting rules (from finance class 10 years ago)
- Comment on One year after being bought for $44 billion, X is worth $19 billion 1 year ago:
He took it private so, although there can be shares, they aren’t traded on the open market. So no positions to short.
- Comment on Proper Kobra Max to Orbiter v2.0 mounting 1 year ago:
This looks like it would work with any E3D V6 heat break, right?
After CNC Kitchen’s review of the orbiter, I want to add one to my CR-10 V2. Its OEM heat break is an E3D V6 design.
- Comment on outube bans 3D print channel after manually reviewing its videos as suitable for monetization [Louis Rossmann explains the censorship] 1 year ago:
3D Print General had one video where I recognized an AR-15 lower being printed in the background. The voice over was on the printer or filament (I forget).
Hoffman Tactical is still on YouTube. I was made aware of this channel when researching CF Nylon. HT has several promotional videos of his 80% printed AR rifle, and long discussions about which filament to use for which part of a rifle.
It’s very inconsistent.
- Comment on Klipperized my Sv06 - 10/10 do recommend 1 year ago:
The one thing I didn’t like about klipper firmware on my CR-10 was the default filament runout setup. One of my first big prints (with expensive ApolloX filament) ran out. The default klipper setup waits something like an hour, with the hot end still hot, then completely shuts down.
So my home position was lost, and with a partial part on the plate, there was no way of re-homing, so it was a wasted part.
Make sure your filament runout timeout is set to 24 hours (and I think I might have made the temp lower so it didn’t burn?)
I like klipper on mine, too. I do wish the default mesh would be loaded at startup, but it doesn’t load any mesh. Which doesn’t really matter, I guess. I have four build plates, three different styles, so I’m running bed levelling pretty much every print anyways.
- Comment on What quality PLA filament brand have you standardized on? 1 year ago:
Polymaker polylite PLA pro. The Polymax PLA is more expensive and less rigid. The PLA pro is only $2 more a kilo and significantly stronger than regular PLA. Many colors are more matte than esun PLA + which is similar in cost and performance.
- Comment on Suggestions on print settings 1 year ago:
Second this. If it’s PLA, improving layer cooling might help stiffen the last layer before the next is applied. If it’s not PLA, slowing the print down can reduce the horizontal forces for slower-cooling filaments like PETG/ABS. If there’s any warping or over extrusion leaving little blobs on the surface, your nozzle can bump into them, breaking cantilevered features like this one, or breaking the part off the build plate. Getting retraction to blob less or making sure no over-extrusion exists could help. If it’s PETG or Nylon, printing slightly wet (where the surface doesn’t look bad) can cause blobs on the top layer that the nozzle hits and causes those horizonal forces.
Prints like this aren’t impossible. I’ve printed a PETG storm drain that had vertical slots like this when I couldn’t buy one I needed. It turned out great but I had to print really slow.
- Comment on Now that we've had SF for a bit, what do you think? Good, flawed, bad? 1 year ago:
I was trying to finish research and upgrade a few weapons and visited a few frozen lifeless rocks in a row. It was starting to get repetitive, so I decided to pick a random level 70 system at the limit of my jump range. One planet had a lot of life so I landed. There were a few of these level 10 giant beetles the size of an elephant with lizard skin (their muscles rippled when they moved, they were animated really well). I shot one to see what resources they dropped. Like a movie, an entire line of those things popped over a ridge and charged me. Level 45 to 70.
It was a tough fight. Exploring is rewarding, and focusing on planets and moons that have life show off more of the awesomeness of this game.
- Comment on Small update focusing on stability has dropped 1 year ago:
Any chance this fixes the bug where you can’t acquire powers from a temple? Even leaving and returning doesn’t work. You have to reboot the game.
I went through about 25 Star clouds on the last one before I figured out it wasn’t triggering.
- Comment on First print with PETG 1 year ago:
My first PETG print was amazing. One of the best prints I ever did. Then I had 10 failures in a row. I went though 3 half rolls (kept changing them thinking it was cheap filament).
I had a CR-10v2 with the OEM bed springs. I stiffened them by adding a bunch of washers since it’s recommended to upgrade the OEM springs. Suddenly I had mostly good prints. I bought a filament dryer and started printing directly out of that. That solved most of the rest of my problems.
PETG is the “second easiest to print” because it can print below 250 and doesn’t need an enclosure, but that’s only part of the picture. It’s really picky with your first layer height, it doesn’t stick to itself very well with a layer fan on it, and it absorbs moisture (I live in a swamp, I have to print PETG out of a dryer).
I find ASA easier to print than PETG with most prints, with only a few warp-prone shapes where ASA is difficult. I try ASA first and keep more spools in hand than PETG.
- Submitted 1 year ago to [deleted] | 1 comment
- Comment on Imax CEO Talks Hollywood Strikes Shaking Up Theatrical Release Schedule: “We’ll Fill Things In” 1 year ago:
I really hate how insanely profitable the film industry is yet almost all the wealth goes to a few obscenely wealthy people, while the regular workers who make films struggle. My knee-jerk reaction was that it’s great that there’s a slowdown of releases to put pressure on people, but I forgot how little movie theaters usually make on movies (I think they barely make any money on the movie and make most of their income on concessions).
It’s great to see there’s a way to keep theaters earning money while the writers continue their strike.
- Comment on This post contains a minor exploration spoiler, but no story spoilers 1 year ago:
It’s all explained in a computer record. I don’t want to give away any spoilers, check Dr. Azia’s computer that’s in the lab in Florida.
- Comment on Resin Printer Not From China? 1 year ago:
Even with moderate usage, no joke, I’d recommend getting a flammables cabinet to store IPA. At the end of every weekend, I drain our washing station back into two three liter jugs and put them in the flammables cabinet. They’re stored correctly, the cabinet prevents light from reaching the jugs, and it settles over the weekend. On Monday I carefully pour the top portion into the auto washer and top it off with new IPA. The settled layer gets poured into the waste container.
We have two printers at work, one wash station and one cure station. And we have 8x jugs of IPA in our flammables cabinet.
Before we started settling in the cabinet and decanting our wash solution, we went through an incredible amount of IPA that we had to deal with as waste. And this is from two SLA printers, which we use in addition to our Prusa MK3 and SLS nylon printers, so we don’t always use the resin printers.
- Comment on Learned something new about Klippy today on my CR-10 1 year ago:
Thanks for the link.
It wasn’t an issue with my monoprice, so I might have skipped over some warnings. Then I didn’t read up on all of klipper documentation because I was familiar with it. Maybe I’m warning others about something that’s in the documentation anyways.
The stupid thing is that I’ve had this happen with my Ender 3 Pro when hooked up to pronterface. I had forgotten it had happened.
- Submitted 1 year ago to 3dprinting@lemmy.world | 4 comments