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Suggestions on print settings
Submitted 1 year ago by rustyriffs@lemmy.world to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
Comments
NaibofTabr@infosec.pub 1 year ago
FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 year ago
You could fix this by making the bars thicker, or by increasing the number of horizontal connections so that the unsupported vertical pieces aren’t as tall, or possibly by slowing down your print speed - but it’s really a design issue.
another solution might be to angle the bars so they criss cross in a skinny-X pattern, but I agree it’s a design issue. especially if it’s always breaking at the same spot.
kale@lemmy.zip 1 year ago
Second this. If it’s PLA, improving layer cooling might help stiffen the last layer before the next is applied. If it’s not PLA, slowing the print down can reduce the horizontal forces for slower-cooling filaments like PETG/ABS. If there’s any warping or over extrusion leaving little blobs on the surface, your nozzle can bump into them, breaking cantilevered features like this one, or breaking the part off the build plate. Getting retraction to blob less or making sure no over-extrusion exists could help. If it’s PETG or Nylon, printing slightly wet (where the surface doesn’t look bad) can cause blobs on the top layer that the nozzle hits and causes those horizonal forces.
Prints like this aren’t impossible. I’ve printed a PETG storm drain that had vertical slots like this when I couldn’t buy one I needed. It turned out great but I had to print really slow.
rustyriffs@lemmy.world 1 year ago
Thank you for the help with the photos. I’m still struggling with it for some reason…
I appreciate the feedback on the vertical bars being too thin, that makes sense. I’ll do some adjustments to the design, do some calibration prints, and give it another shot.
NaibofTabr@infosec.pub 1 year ago
For the images, try right-clicking on one and clicking “Open image in new tab” so you can see just the image without anything else. Use that link.
For designing, keep in mind that at the tip of the nozzle where the soft plastic is hardening on the model, the nozzle movement is pulling on the hardening plastic and actually putting a lot of force on that part of the model… there’s nothing you can really do to change that, it’s just how printing works. You kind of have to design around it.
From what I can see in the images, your calibration looks fine. The layers are actually aligned really well, I wouldn’t change anything there.
FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 year ago
We’re gonna need way more than that if we’re going to help you.
rustyriffs@lemmy.world 1 year ago
Ender 2 pro PETG offering: Image
He did. The layer adhesion seems ok, generally? I’m still pretty new to all this. I’ll give your spiral mode tower a test soon, thanks. I’m currently printing a temperature tower, so I’ll see how that turns out too.
I could definitely add more bridges and stagger them like you said. The design was made by using slot cutouts in Fusion360. I’d have to play around with it to figure out how to alter the design for cutouts to form an x pillar/bridge combo like you mentioned.
Thanks for the help.
FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 1 year ago
so, in f360, the way I’d do it is to create a is create a pair of pillars- one in each direction- then create patterns. use the combine tool to join them into a single body. Then I’d create the top and bottom of the box. When using the combine tool, I would advise not selecting ‘keep tools’. this will help keep you from bogging down the computer and you can always go back in your history. (its a problem in f360 whenever you start going crazy with patterns. or patterns of patterns…)
but it should be okay if you stagger the braces, I’ve had some idiotic design choices myself. (including a spirally-fin-shaped lamp shade that would have looked sWeEt. like a long sort of jet turbine. except it was 200mm tall and the fins were bobbing and weaving. ooops. sometimes it’s only obvious in retrospect.)