Submitted 5 months ago by IMALlama@lemmy.world to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/560b4912-2703-452d-aaaa-72d25866792e.jpeg
At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed.
I’ve reset, lowered my extrusion multiplier a smidge, switched to a more traditional support pattern, and am going for it again. Wish me luck!
That’s a fire hazard (in case you weren’t already considering it)
The printer is a a Voron 2.4 running klipper with a chamber thermistor, controlled bed fans, and an exhaust fan so it will do a decent job regulating it’s temperature. The electronics are outside the chamber and there are acrylic panels under the blanket and hoodies. Should it come to it, klipper has thermal runaway protection. There’s also a smoke alarm right next to the printer. I suspect this will be a pretty uneventful print.
I let the printer heat soak for an hour and a half before giving it a go and barely cracked 60 °C, so all should be well. This is a Voron, so the electronics are out of the chamber, have a cooling fan, etc.
Other than looking somewhat janky, this isn’t that different than the insulated panels I’ll be swapping on to replace the current acrylic panels.
I made a sleeve of aluminum foil bubble insulation for mine. I taped it together with aluminum HVAC tape. It makes the enclosure heat up quicker, but I have to run the enclosure fan on longer prints to keep it from getting too hot.
This is basically what I’m planning on doing to make this look a bir nicer in the future. Do you change your bedfan speed via macro or do you only rely on your exhaust fan to regulate the temp?
Do you have an exhaust fan somewhere?
Yup! The bedfans are also in a control loop.
What’s your chamber temp with bed fans like? I just mounted a chamber thermistor (on the floor, I don’t feel like running cables through the drag chain right now) that I need to connect but the little thermometer module on my gantry was reading like 58 ish at 100 c bed temp, dropped to 56 ish overnight, was getting 40s before moving them to the front and actually setting up the automation macro for them.
For impromptu insulation, Cardboard works well too, I stick my filament dryer in a box during the winter so it can actually hit the target temps, otherwise it runs forever.
I struggled to hit 60 °C after an hour and a half of heat soak using the filter and two extra bedfans on full blast. This was measured from the toolhead over the center of bed and the nozzle 75mm off the bed. Without the insulation I was in the low 40s.
I don’t have enough cardboard to make a cardboard sleeve, but I do have ACM panels I’ve been meaning to install, along with some of that foil bubble radiant insulation.
Dkarma@lemmy.world 1 month ago
What the holy hell is this nonsense?
You guys will do anything to keep from buying a good printer won’t you?
I’ve done 21 hours prints in my damp cold basement without issue.
You guys make me feel so competent haha.
j4n3z@lemm.ee 1 month ago
Imagine feeling so confident to indirectly call Voron a bad printer and tell people how to spend money.
Go get yoursel something to work on instead of mocking other for their temporary solutions.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 month ago
ASA and ABS are warp prone and this is an 11" / ~275mm wide print that’s equally tall 🤷
The build volume of my printer means lots of surface area for the acrylic enclosure, which in turn makes it hard for me to exceed a 50°C chamber temp, despite 4x bed fans.
The next print, with normal supports, pulled the bed off the magnetic build plate. Insulation eliminated warping and let me pull off the print.
I do agree that a “nicer” enclosure is the preferred method. I have zero issues with PETG at this size. I’ve never tried PLA on this printer, but it should be fine too.