It’s 1.75mm filament going into 2mm layers. lol, wtf. Still looks great, though.
That’s pretty cool!
2mm thick layers on a trophy cup
Submitted 6 months ago by GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.ee to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VGvVog-J9YM
Comments
thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org 6 months ago
roofuskit@lemmy.world 6 months ago
Let’s see that part cooling system.
asbestos@lemmy.world 6 months ago
lemann@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 months ago
Feed that beast into a CPAP cooling duct setup, the part will pretty much go flying across the room when bridging lol
wjrii@lemmy.world 6 months ago
The nozzle itself is 2.4mm. www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7kMwPnydkk
SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world 6 months ago
As odd as it sounds, as long as you can feed enough filament into the melt zone faster than it can come out the nozzle you can make larger widths and heights than the actual filament width itself. It’s technically just packing it in.
I can only imagine how hard it had to be to tune the retraction though
wjrii@lemmy.world 6 months ago
I’m guessing vase mode is your friend with a nozzle wider than your filament.
papalonian@lemmy.world 6 months ago
This is what isn’t making sense to me, if the opening to the nozzle is 2mm and the filament is 1.75, what is it “packing in” against? Why doesn’t it just go through the center of the hole in the nozzle?
My guess, it probably does just “go through” the center of the nozzle (leaving 0.125mm clearance on either side), until it presses against the build plate/ previous layer, and it then squishes out to 2mm.
So it wouldn’t necessarily be pushing filament into the nozzle faster than it can come out of the nozzle, since there’s nothing stopping it from freely flowing out of the nozzle; it’s pushing filament faster than the nozzle is moving, creating a buildup outside the nozzle equal to the desired layer size
rambos@lemm.ee 6 months ago
If you are asking about printing with bigger nozzle size than filament diameter, there should be positive pressure in all parts of hotend and filament is just moving slower where bigger cross section is. I don’t have experience with this kind of printing tho.
Btw, where did you find that nozzle is 2 mm? In video they mentioned printing 2 mm layer height, but that doesn’t define the nozzle size. You can print different layer widths and heights with the same nozzle. Good cross section is recommended for decent layer bond, but it looks like they are just laying the filament down with no squish.
For proper 2 mm layer height I guess we need 4 mm nozzle and 6 kg hotend/extruder lol
SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world 6 months ago
Extrusion is a mix of temperature, feed rate, speed and pressure.
Basically the hotend temp could be high enough that the plastic melts but it still “pushes” just fast enough to build pressure to drive it. Not too much, otherwise the filament grinds and extruder skips, but at the right amount you can keep up with the feed.
The nozzle, lifted up a bit, moves slow enough that the filament comes out and spreads out from the pressure pushing on it. Making the line wide and tall.
The dance is keeping those in sync. Move too fast and the lines are thin, too slow and they’re too wide.
Nozzle too high and it doesn’t blend into the layer below as much as sit on top. Too low and the extra pressure pushes the filament around and it curls back up onto the nozzle.
Toribor@corndog.social 6 months ago
This makes me curious about the effect of nozzle shape on the output. Would a square holed nozzle work or look different than a normal round nozzle? What about an oval or star shape? Hmmm.
SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world 6 months ago
A little but nothing too fancy. Probably just make it hard to get consistent line widths.
Closest analogy is a hot glue gun. Unless you’re lifting up as you extrude to make a “dab” it’s just going to smear as it moves sideways