Comment on Chonky nozzel + decent amount of material = opportunity for lots of spaghetti
empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 months ago
Generally speaking yes, with bigger nozzles and higher flow rates you will need slightly higher temps- the conduction rate thru the nozzle to the plastic is constant, but you are heating up more plastic and need more energy (thus, higher temps).
You will then also need more part cooling fan as there is more plastic bulk to be cooling.
230 is much much too low for ASA, that stuff is a bit picky. Try 250.
Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.
On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well
Yeah. ASA basically acts like ABS when printing for the most part, it does need temps to be a tiny bit higher but mechanically everything else is almost entirely the same.
Thanks, I ordered some Polymaker ASA recently, will try it out.
Polymaker ASA is what I’m currently using. You can grab 3 KG spools on Amazon for as low as $50-60 depending on the color (new via prime) if you keep an eye out.
The mix of ASA and a higher flow printer as resulted in a lot more fickle prints though, but this is also true for PETG. Things like EM vary some as a function of speed, so I’ve found that I need to print all my features at a similar speed.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 6 months ago
Bah, I typoed. I’m running 250 first layer/240 following layers, which is still lower than what most usually recommend. I was running 235 pretty consistently previously. I’ll have to try printing a temp tower with the bigger nozzle. Here’s one from the 0.4mm nozzle, granted also with my prior Rapido 1 (RIP).
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Below 230 or so, layer adhesion was pretty poor
Above 245 or so, I started getting a lot of very fine/wispy stringing. It basically looked like ultrafine thread and would get itself stuck in my hot end fans.
Thanks to somewhat low chamber temps (350mm^3 printer with only acrylic panels), I’ve been keeping cooling somewhat low. I recently added some more bed fans to help my bed filter out, so maybe I can try a bit more if it starts becoming an issue.
empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 months ago
Even 250 is a bit low for that high of a volume. Are you running a brass nozzle or a hardened/stainless steel nozzle? Steel nozzles will require even more hotend temp due to their low conduction rates. Eg, with the stainless nozzles on a Bambu P1S, I have to run ASA at around 260/262 for higher print speeds.
If stringing is a problem consider increasing the speed of your filament retraction (not distance) You may also want to turn off z-hop. Sounds wild I know, but it does help- by not lifting the nozzle during a rapid move, it “wipes” the nozzle clean as it moves off the part and reduces stringing. Realistically you shouldn’t use z-hop at all unless you have a part with a very small cross section that keeps falling over when the nozzle wipes across it. Which ofc, the big print I see in the photo looks like it will have zero stability problems, lol.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 6 months ago
@Dettweiler42@lemmy.world, replying to you as well here.
This is a hardened steel nozzle. 260 looked a little rough, but 255 looks pretty good. The temp tower got knocked off the bed at 235. It does look like I’ll need to bump cooling a touch. Currently working on a retraction tower.
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I’ll have to give this a go after this retraction tower prints. On the last one I printed there was basically no difference on any of the settings once it got above 0.2mm of retraction. In my time with the rapido, any filament left in the nozzle will ooze out if its left hot but it doesn’t string that badly.
Yup, I’ve run into this realization too - that’s part of the reason why I was thinking to have z-hop on for this print
Adding two more bed fans, for a total of 4 (2 loose bed fans, 2 fans in my filter) and getting a bang on first layer (yay klipper_z_calibration) seem to have really helped with warping. I do have some ACM panels that I want to swap on to bump chamber temps up more, but I haven’t taken the time to print new magnetic inserts for them yet.
Knock on wood…
Dettweiler42@lemmy.world 6 months ago
I’m definitely going to try the retraction speed (instead of distance) and no z-hop in the morning.
Dettweiler42@lemmy.world 6 months ago
Still try the higher temp, but bump up your retraction to counteract that. I went with the same move for printing silk to get cleaner layers, and it’s worked out really well.