Comment on If you had $1500 to spend
ExcessShiv@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 week agoHow fast are you printing? I’m very close to finally pulling the trigger on a 2.4, and would love a bump in speed. my current printer (Anycubic bedslinger with klipper) is printing PLA/ASA at 200mm/s with 6000mm/s2 accelerations and 300mm/s travel while retaining pretty good quality.
My biggest annoyances with my current printer is that despite the probed bedmesh (inductive probe) it doesn’t compensate properly on the first layer across the entire bed. There’s a 0.1mm difference between highest and lowest probed points, i would think this could easily be compensated for since it’s decently flat. But it always ends up with bad sections where it’s clearly not compensating correctly while others are perfect. I also always need to tweak Z-offset between powerdowns, which is a bit annoying since i usually need to restart the first print of the day at least once.
IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 week ago
Print duration is dependent on two components:
My print speed is often limited by volumetric flow - not the actual speed of my print head, so I haven’t bothered chasing higher ceilings. Granted, tend to print I print large/chunky/functional things so my goal is to lay down as much material as possible. If you’re chasing lots of fine detail, a smaller Voron can go faster than what I have but isn’t going to be that much faster than where you are now.
Thanks to a combination of CoreXY (rigidity) and Klipper (pressure advance, input shaping), I have basically zero ringing/ghosting show up in prints. It is worth talking about quality expectations though. Harsh lighting can reveal that layer lines are not perfectly aligned layer to layer. Not sure if this is a Voron thing or is it’s just more obvious now that my layers are a lot more noise free.
Automated gantry leveling (Klipper will get the bed and gantry to be ‘perfectly’ in plane thanks to 2.4s being able to mechanically move the four corners of the gantry independently - trident does similar, but moves the bed instead), a klicky probe and a Z calibration macro, and bed mesh make my first layers extremely consistent print to print.
One caveat: because the printer is enclosed and big (if you go for a 350), if you print sequential objects without letting the printer fully heat soak, the first layer will progressively get a touch higher and higher between prints as the printer expands in the z-axis.