Filament drying is YouTube delusion.
Cue “hydroscopic, meaning plastic absorbs water”.
Comment on An interesting issue
Bluewing@lemmy.world 3 weeks agoDryer didn’t do squat to make a difference. The filament was at a steady 14Rh for several days for both nozzles. The only change that made a difference that made a difference was the nozzle swap.
SaveTheTuaHawk@lemmy.ca 2 weeks ago
Bluewing@lemmy.world 2 weeks ago
There are filaments that do need to be dried before use or even dried as you use them. But they are higher end engineering filaments and they cost real money. You tend to need a real reason to buy them. Despite the fact that many consumer level printers have the ability to print them these days. $50 to $100+ a kilogram or less, is a real barrier to the wide use.
Still, years of experience has taught me that I need dry PETG as it tells me it needs to be dried, and TPU is always dried before use. But PLA is a waste of watts.
BigTrout75@lemmy.world 3 weeks ago
No kidding! Thanks. I’m going to get a 6mm.
Bluewing@lemmy.world 3 weeks ago
I seldom use a .40mm nozzle much anymore since I mostly do functional prints like these gears. I have found the .60mm nozzle is a good compromise for speed in printing, better strength, and good accuracy.
Interestingly enough, a .40mm will print nearly or as fast as a .60mm nozzle on Bambu printer in general. This because Bambu optimizes their slicer setting for the .40mm nozzle. What it does give up a bit is between layer strength. This is due to to the smaller contact area difference between layers. I can get the same strength with 2 perimeters using a .60mm that would take 3 perimeters with a .40mm nozzle.
BigTrout75@lemmy.world 3 weeks ago
Very interesting, thanks.