JustEnoughDucks

A screen is always a significantly worse experience than physical programmable buttons sadly

Well they are correct to a point.

If the solar panel don’t have grid failure shutdown for its inverter, it can shock (or with bad luck) kill workers working on a downed power line assuming the load side is safe. That is also why house installations also often only have a dedicated outlet during power loss and are not allowed to connect to the full house.

I agree everyone should be able to get off-grid solar system or balcony solar, but they should have to be certified to not shock workers during an outage when people inevitably get cheap TEMU balcony solar.

Would spamming low effort comments to fill a quota then fall under the spam bit, not necessarily self promotion bit? It would be quite obvious and from what was written in the post, moderators have more hand-wavy freedom to decide what is spam.

I have no dog in this fight either since all of my projects are open hardware so nobody cares anyway because it would cost money to build it and test it out 😂

This is probably the coolest innovation I have seen in the past few years from the open source community. That is so awesome!

This guy is extremely smart and dedicated. It is crazy that he has been able to do it all single handedly as a hobby in only a few years!

Sadly, people will still steal it and sell it no matter the license. Companies might be slightly more hesitant to steal it, but anyone selling at flea markets will not even give it a second thought.

Hell, Runkeeper was a thing with a social network before strava and still exists.

It even gives cadence which strava doesn’t do (at least not the free tier), but the Apple cult picked up Strava and it became the runner’s status symbol as Apple devices are yoany people in America/Sweden/etc… and then that spread over the rest of the world.

That commenter was using an example of something very bad that could happen if the fork got handed off to someone else again but worse, not something that actually happened

I think it is possible, but would require a ton of trace cutting and wire bodging, even the higher current traces which is never great.

An interconnect PCB (or one per channel) might be your best bet if your current PCB is too complex to reorder and resolder. Getting it done at a cheap board house like Aisler, oshpark, jlcpcb, etc…

Design it to solder to the required pads with castellated half holes, then you can solder the new parts on top of the interconnect board, and that is also easier if you have a proto batch of 5-10.

We print with PC at work because we need the best resistance (inside a hot motor). It has significantly better heat resistance than ABS/ASA (113°C heat deflection or higher sometimes vs ASA 93°) and not crazy expensive.

It also doesn’t warp nearly as much as ABS just in a little tent or enclosure. Glue stick for release on a smooth bed.

So what are you trying to do? Are you trying to make a constant current source for the lasers or a current limited voltage source?

You are running out of voltage headroom I think Using these sort of voltage regulators as a current regulator forces a 1.25V drop across the resistors used to limit the current there. Then you have 1.5-2.5V between IN and OUT from the Darlington pair in the regulator, then 0.7 across the transistor for a total of 3.45V minimum drop before you get to the laser. That is 1.55V for the laser. It is strange that it works for the green and not the red because normally they both have a minimum of 1.8V.

Can you probe what voltage you are getting with a scope oun the laser input on J6? Profiling the laser voltage would tell you a lot.

I there are a few ways you can go with this. Since you are burning a ton off as heat anyway, just switch to a DAC controlled high side current source with a PMOS FET (+ op amp and sense resistor of course). They can do 130mA easily and have a similar amount of components.

If you want it a bit more accurate or with BJTs, you could do a current source Like described here and adjust it to your values. More components, but it works quite linearly with your DAC outputs from the arduino.

This is how tap to pay cards work IIRC. Secure storage chip, transceiver chip, NFC coil, boom

It depends on what you want to do. I went down a bit of a rabbit hole because my girlfriend wants one and I get a bit research obsessed because I like to buy once if possible.

sub 300€

Every new machine sub-300€ or so will have plastic gears and almost all plastic parts. This means that they will only last a few years of hard use, or longer very light use. They are also very limited in what fabric they can sew because anything like denim or thicker reaches the limits of the plastic gears so it can’t do it without the risk of breaking.

The Singer Heavy Duty is often recommended but it has very very touchy pedal, runs very fast, and has no speed regulation. Contrary to the name it is just a basic beginner machine, not heavy duty at all and QC is very bad. Modern Singers are apparently extremely hit or miss in general.

So for that price range, going for ease of use and features makes the Brother CS70000X if you are in the US, otherwise Brother Innov-is A16 for that budget in the EU.

500€ Budget:

• Brother Innov-is A65
• Janome Sewist 721
• Janome Sewisr 725S
• Janome TM30 if you want computerized (not better per se)
• probably a Pfaff or husqvarna is also good but less reviews on these.

1000-2000 Budget

• Janome HD series
• Juki F300 or F600
• Janome Skyline S5/S6
• this is where you start getting into deciding based on more technical knowledge that I don’t have.

There is also a 2nd route: get a decent vintage 2nd hand machine in a 2nd hand store for <100€, try it out, learn the basics, do some repairs, and see how much you actually use it. Then, when it breaks, you will be in a position to know what you need, how much you use it, and what features would be nice. Then you can go out and buy an expensive model that will last you forever (hopefully).

Yeah here in the EU, new, they are mostly hanging toilets with a sewer connection via rubber sealed PP pipes.

Then you caulk the top and sides and not the bottom (which is more open) so that any leaks leak onto the back tiles and are immediately noticeable and not into the subfloor (which here in Belgium is usually screed + brick/concrete)

Also extra benefit is that there is no toilet connection with the tile to clean around, you can just mop directly under it and any kids “missing” will be easily cleanable.

I see you have never played CS or rocket league before 😂

Either very clear smurfs or literally one team full of low silvers against the enemy team with 1 silver and the rest high gold or EMG full 5 man squad.

To charge faster, yes.

Here in the EU, 11kW home chargers are very common. Especially because three-phase power is common.

Like the other person said, it can still be very nice and useful!

However, modern (even cheap) DMMs have some quality of life or useful features like auto ranging, diode measurement, capacitor measurement, max/avg/min functions, duty cycle, etc… Like the standard low budget ANENG AN8008. And this one is certainly better quality than the cheap stuff.

Though the continuity sensor for that meter being able to select sensitivity levels is quite nice. Most multimeter’s simply use “banana plugs” so you can’t go wrong and can always use standard lab wires (that are readily available)…