JustEnoughDucks
@JustEnoughDucks@slrpnk.net
- Comment on Strava just killed its free API, will require a subscription if you want to build on top of it 8 hours ago:
Hell, Runkeeper was a thing with a social network before strava and still exists.
It even gives cadence which strava doesn’t do (at least not the free tier), but the Apple cult picked up Strava and it became the runner’s status symbol as Apple devices are yoany people in America/Sweden/etc… and then that spread over the rest of the world.
- Comment on Where did the dust settle on Syncthing Fork? 4 days ago:
That commenter was using an example of something very bad that could happen if the fork got handed off to someone else again but worse, not something that actually happened
- Comment on Problem with switching a laser driver 1 week ago:
I think it is possible, but would require a ton of trace cutting and wire bodging, even the higher current traces which is never great.
An interconnect PCB (or one per channel) might be your best bet if your current PCB is too complex to reorder and resolder. Getting it done at a cheap board house like Aisler, oshpark, jlcpcb, etc…
Design it to solder to the required pads with castellated half holes, then you can solder the new parts on top of the interconnect board, and that is also easier if you have a proto batch of 5-10.
- Comment on Better filament than ABS 1 week ago:
We print with PC at work because we need the best resistance (inside a hot motor). It has significantly better heat resistance than ABS/ASA (113°C heat deflection or higher sometimes vs ASA 93°) and not crazy expensive.
It also doesn’t warp nearly as much as ABS just in a little tent or enclosure. Glue stick for release on a smooth bed.
- Comment on Problem with switching a laser driver 2 weeks ago:
So what are you trying to do? Are you trying to make a constant current source for the lasers or a current limited voltage source?
You are running out of voltage headroom I think Using these sort of voltage regulators as a current regulator forces a 1.25V drop across the resistors used to limit the current there. Then you have 1.5-2.5V between IN and OUT from the Darlington pair in the regulator, then 0.7 across the transistor for a total of 3.45V minimum drop before you get to the laser. That is 1.55V for the laser. It is strange that it works for the green and not the red because normally they both have a minimum of 1.8V.
Can you probe what voltage you are getting with a scope oun the laser input on J6? Profiling the laser voltage would tell you a lot.
I there are a few ways you can go with this. Since you are burning a ton off as heat anyway, just switch to a DAC controlled high side current source with a PMOS FET (+ op amp and sense resistor of course). They can do 130mA easily and have a similar amount of components.
If you want it a bit more accurate or with BJTs, you could do a current source Like described here and adjust it to your values. More components, but it works quite linearly with your DAC outputs from the arduino.
- Comment on Using NFC To Power Devices Instead Of Qi 4 weeks ago:
This is how tap to pay cards work IIRC. Secure storage chip, transceiver chip, NFC coil, boom
- Comment on Things too look at for a sewing machine 4 weeks ago:
It depends on what you want to do. I went down a bit of a rabbit hole because my girlfriend wants one and I get a bit research obsessed because I like to buy once if possible.
sub 300€
Every new machine sub-300€ or so will have plastic gears and almost all plastic parts. This means that they will only last a few years of hard use, or longer very light use. They are also very limited in what fabric they can sew because anything like denim or thicker reaches the limits of the plastic gears so it can’t do it without the risk of breaking.
The Singer Heavy Duty is often recommended but it has very very touchy pedal, runs very fast, and has no speed regulation. Contrary to the name it is just a basic beginner machine, not heavy duty at all and QC is very bad. Modern Singers are apparently extremely hit or miss in general.
So for that price range, going for ease of use and features makes the Brother CS70000X if you are in the US, otherwise Brother Innov-is A16 for that budget in the EU.
500€ Budget:
- Brother Innov-is A65
- Janome Sewist 721
- Janome Sewisr 725S
- Janome TM30 if you want computerized (not better per se)
- probably a Pfaff or husqvarna is also good but less reviews on these.
1000-2000 Budget
- Janome HD series
- Juki F300 or F600
- Janome Skyline S5/S6
- this is where you start getting into deciding based on more technical knowledge that I don’t have.
There is also a 2nd route: get a decent vintage 2nd hand machine in a 2nd hand store for <100€, try it out, learn the basics, do some repairs, and see how much you actually use it. Then, when it breaks, you will be in a position to know what you need, how much you use it, and what features would be nice. Then you can go out and buy an expensive model that will last you forever (hopefully).
- Comment on Toilets: to caulk or not to caulk? 5 weeks ago:
Yeah here in the EU, new, they are mostly hanging toilets with a sewer connection via rubber sealed PP pipes.
Then you caulk the top and sides and not the bottom (which is more open) so that any leaks leak onto the back tiles and are immediately noticeable and not into the subfloor (which here in Belgium is usually screed + brick/concrete)
Also extra benefit is that there is no toilet connection with the tile to clean around, you can just mop directly under it and any kids “missing” will be easily cleanable.
- Comment on these people are the worst 1 month ago:
I see you have never played CS or rocket league before 😂
Either very clear smurfs or literally one team full of low silvers against the enemy team with 1 silver and the rest high gold or EMG full 5 man squad.
- Comment on Installed a 40amp car charger 1 month ago:
To charge faster, yes.
Here in the EU, 11kW home chargers are very common. Especially because three-phase power is common.
- Comment on Buying a used Voltcraft VC-5070 analog multimeter good idea for hobby electronics? 1 month ago:
Like the other person said, it can still be very nice and useful!
However, modern (even cheap) DMMs have some quality of life or useful features like auto ranging, diode measurement, capacitor measurement, max/avg/min functions, duty cycle, etc… Like the standard low budget ANENG AN8008. And this one is certainly better quality than the cheap stuff.
Though the continuity sensor for that meter being able to select sensitivity levels is quite nice. Most multimeter’s simply use “banana plugs” so you can’t go wrong and can always use standard lab wires (that are readily available)…
- Comment on I built a simple tool to find things to do without the usual paywalls or account signups 2 months ago:
Isn’t this the guy who has posted a bunch of purely vibe-“coded” spam and then deletes it if the backlash becomes too big? Like the “temple-runner game” posted last week?
- Comment on Solar is now 41% cheaper than fossil fuels, UN report shows 2 months ago:
Because energy companies are notoriously corrupt the world round.
Renewable energy is “new” for them, so they charge a premium because they know people will pay it even though it is cheaper and it makes them more profit.
Epstein-class garbage in charge of most energy companies.
- Comment on Why do people hate AI so much? 2 months ago:
We did exactly the opposite of what you say, we monitized the scams and turned to entire internet into an scam-ad infested wasteland of the greed of 10 people at the cost of driving the rest of humanity to mindless addictions, grooming, and manipulating human psyche to eek out more money and mass-propagandize.
The majority of the internet is 10x worse than it was 10 or 20 years ago.
- Comment on [Zack Freedman] You can copy and 3D print perfect spare parts! (Legally) (Probably) 2 months ago:
Zach Freedman always has quite thouroughly thought out videos. Not always interesting for me personally, but quite a few bangers.
And he launched Gridfinity into the ecosystem it is today.