LastYearsIrritant

github.com/ArmoredTurtle/BoxTurtle

There are open designs. I know this one used to be popular.

prusa3d.com/…/original-prusa-mmu3-for-mk4s-mk3-9s…

It’s the Prusa version of the multi color filament feeder.

Depends on what you want out of your printer. 5 is the minimum for me for multicolor prints. I usually max out my MMU when I’m doing that, and the new color mixing can take advantage of even more.

3 is probably all you need for structural stuff. One PLA, one PETG, one TPU and you can make tons of very unique, useful items. But 5 colors + support + TPU? That’s an amazing amount of flexibility and design options.

Libraries usually have a printer or two you can use.

I would love it if Deconstructed partnered with him to turn his interpretation of the Enterprise into a 3d model.

Though this is just one person’s idea of how it would work, so it would be a ton of effort for something that doesn’t really match the show exactly.

It’s interesting how the ship actually doesn’t really work together as represented in the show, but most sets didn’t really work back then. They didn’t care about how it really works. These days there’s a lot more effort in ship design to ensure it is more logical.

Until you test it and document it, it’s just a guess that it’s actually doing something.

Is actually showing that something is useful worth getting your name on it? Well, now it’s more published and more people are aware of it, so maybe?

Usually, plastic is plastic, but it really depends on what you’re printing.

If all you are printing is a block with no overhangs, few stop/starts, one color, etc. then it really doesn’t matter much.

Anytime the printer has to retract and start a new spot, that’s where stringing, blobs, and gaps can form.

You can do a test print with the cheaper plastic, like benchy, and then you can adjust your printer’s settings for the roll. There are also some smaller test prints if you want to test specific things, like a temperature tower, overhangs, etc.

Buy one, try it out, and see what happens. But don’t be surprised if you have to fiddle with some settings like speed or temperature to get good results.

One thing Prusa does is that they offer upgrades for their printers. So when the next one comes out, you can get an upgrade kit to get the new features.

It’s not cheap, but they offer a LOT of support.

Meh, I kinda randomly decide whenever I make a run. I’d say most of my cable runs are A, but I definitely have a bunch of B too.

Just depends on how I’m feeling that day.

youtu.be/d3qGQ2utl2A

This is a great series of videos. It’s for Fusion 360, which is also free, but the lessons work for most software. It starts off easy and works up to more complex stuff.

youtu.be/E14m5hf6Pvo

This is a great tutorial for FreeCAD, but it starts out kinda complex already, so I would recommend this after you start to figure out a little bit first.

Pick a (small, simple) project you think will be fun, and design a solution yourself.

The more projects you can design, the more useful your 3d printer will be. Yes, downloading and using models online can help solve some problems, but the real magic of 3d printing is creating a completely custom solution that only you need. Most of the time, even when I download a model someone else made, I use it as a starting point to design one myself that meets my specific needs.

Check out Zack Freedman. He is amazing at 3d printing solutions, and he genuinely wants to make you amazing as well. This is a great tutorial about how to THINK about designing prints, and then how to make it happen. www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcMvTfUfNXo

FreeCAD is great, but has a big learning curve. OnShape is browser based and I find it works best for me. Tinkercad is a great starting off point.

But play around and figure out what works best for you.

If you’re wondering how [Curt] managed to 3D print a functional hose sprayer, the short answer is that he didn’t. Once assembled, the printed parts cleverly attach to the top of a standard sprayer, specifically the model 56516 “Pro Flo” from Orbit.

Boo, would have been neat if he got a working sprayer from only 3d printed parts. But that would be pretty unreasonable due to the pressures and the need for valves.

Love my framework. Unless something drastic changes, it’s the only brand I recommend to anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver.

I would be very interested in seeing the results.

You know, I never really understood how fletching works until just now.

I mean, I still wouldn’t know how to do it, but I think I get the overall concept.

Works fine for me.

I have Plex running alongside Jellyfin.

When transcoding video, Plex uses an extra 5 watts of power. Jellyfin uses an extra 55 watts.

Jellyfin also has security holes for accessing videos via URL without being authenticated.

I don’t feel like Jellyfin is ready for being exposed to the internet.