LastYearsIrritant

You can buy keypad entry deadbolts that don’t connect to external wireless devices. I find they’re a good compromise between convenience and security.

But if you have a house fire…

I’d rather risk a burglar than burning to death cause I couldn’t find the key.

The only issue with the rechargeable lithium batteries is that their voltage curve is extremely sharp, so they hold the 1.5v right up until they die.

Depending on how the electronics and battery match up, your deadbolt might not be able to warn you about a low battery condition, which might mean you get locked out. I currently have two doors, both with a keypad entry, so it’s extremely unlikely they’ll both be dead at the same time. If you only have one keypad entry, then you should probably avoid using lithium rechargeable AA’s.

That’s good to know

That’s pretty cool. Definitely going to install it once it’s out of early access.

I’ve just been using the Prusa Link via HomeAssistant, which is pretty useful, but the actual Prusa Connect does have more features that’d be fun to play with.

WAIT, WHAT???

I have everything turned off, but my Prusa still updates its clock and tells me if it needs a firmware update.

I don’t think pihole is going to be able to tell the difference between that or reporting back filenames to Prusa.

I doubt they’re doing anything super sketchy, I just don’t think there’s a great way to verify for sure.

It might be clearer to say it’s more kike your house wiring, instead of a power strip.

This is almost exactly how outlets are Daisy chained through a run.

Basically you have a homelab where every device is plugged into the next outlet along a wall, with each outlet being really close together.

His design is parallel, you’re just seeing it from the wrong perspective.

A homelab can accept a lot more downtime than a company that runs business off of a rack of servers.

A tradeoff between a sweet rack design for having to disassemble a little extra when replacing parts is a perfectly valid tradeoff for me.

Hell, most of us only run a single UPS, if any at all, which would have the same limitation.

It is pretty awesome, only real problem is that if you have to replace anything in the middle, you have to shutdown everything above it too.

That being said, it’s pretty fucking rad.

I like the way he did the comparisons, very easy to understand which one is better for what he was doing.

Pretty cool that you can get such a high quality, metal 3d print of a nozzle for so cheap, even if you have to do a lot of finish machine work yours, the hardest part was done with such high precision.

You know… I just had to test it.

Just threw together a model with some holes, it’s actually faster to print without the holes, even though it uses slightly less material, because there’s fewer retractions and nozzle hopping around.

I’m sure you can optimize it more, but for a quick test, just throwing a solid disc out there will most likely be faster to print.

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In TOS, when they find Kahn, the first thing they do is give him access to all the technical specs of the ship, which he promptly uses to take over.

You’re probably going to be perfectly satisfied with either.

The M1D has the second tool mount, with all the pros and cons behind that.

The Core 1 is made in the EU, with a company that backs it’s products, and will provide an upgrade path for any changes they make.

youtu.be/LHxx4_c6y38

The Aurora Tech channel has a really good video showing the pre-release M1D along with a comparison to other similar printers.

Honestly, the Core One is a flagship product from a highly respected brand that pays its workers fairly and supports the products longer than they would be expected to. If you can afford it, I would go with the Prusa.

I’ve considered this a few times, but having two separate power bricks seems like a bad idea to me.

Like, logically it should be perfectly fine, but it feels like it’s creating a problem.

What happens if the laptop powers down, don’t the hard drives keep running? Is that an issue?

What about sleep or just low power? It just feels like there’s situations where you want the power supplies to be off.

I get that NAS devices are on 24/7, but still… Makes me hesitate.

Seriously, don’t get a 10" dob. They’re FUCKING HUGE. You’ll never drag it out to use it.

Binoculars, or a 6" Dobsonian are plenty to learn on, and since they’re so small, you’ll get them out all the time.

The bigger it is, the more hassle it takes to get out, and there’s really not a huge difference in what you can see.

You don’t get better magnification, you just get a slightly brighter view.

Seriously, just get a pair of binoculars.

You don’t need a telescope to see a lot of cool shit. Just a dark sky and time.

Telescopes, especially ones you look into without a camera, generally only add a handful of targets to look at.

Download the Stellarium app, grab a pair of binoculars, and go sit out and look at stuff.

stellarium-web.org

If you really like that, upgrade to a used Dobsonian 6" manual telescope.

If you really like that, get a seestar smart scope to get cool pictures you can share with people.

If you really like that, then start building a high end camera getup that uses open ASCOM apis that you can control from a laptop.

There’s baby steps to the process, and no real benefits from skipping steps.

github.com/ArmoredTurtle/BoxTurtle

There are open designs. I know this one used to be popular.

prusa3d.com/…/original-prusa-mmu3-for-mk4s-mk3-9s…

It’s the Prusa version of the multi color filament feeder.

Depends on what you want out of your printer. 5 is the minimum for me for multicolor prints. I usually max out my MMU when I’m doing that, and the new color mixing can take advantage of even more.

3 is probably all you need for structural stuff. One PLA, one PETG, one TPU and you can make tons of very unique, useful items. But 5 colors + support + TPU? That’s an amazing amount of flexibility and design options.

Libraries usually have a printer or two you can use.

I would love it if Deconstructed partnered with him to turn his interpretation of the Enterprise into a 3d model.

Though this is just one person’s idea of how it would work, so it would be a ton of effort for something that doesn’t really match the show exactly.

It’s interesting how the ship actually doesn’t really work together as represented in the show, but most sets didn’t really work back then. They didn’t care about how it really works. These days there’s a lot more effort in ship design to ensure it is more logical.

Until you test it and document it, it’s just a guess that it’s actually doing something.

Is actually showing that something is useful worth getting your name on it? Well, now it’s more published and more people are aware of it, so maybe?

Usually, plastic is plastic, but it really depends on what you’re printing.

If all you are printing is a block with no overhangs, few stop/starts, one color, etc. then it really doesn’t matter much.

Anytime the printer has to retract and start a new spot, that’s where stringing, blobs, and gaps can form.

You can do a test print with the cheaper plastic, like benchy, and then you can adjust your printer’s settings for the roll. There are also some smaller test prints if you want to test specific things, like a temperature tower, overhangs, etc.

Buy one, try it out, and see what happens. But don’t be surprised if you have to fiddle with some settings like speed or temperature to get good results.

One thing Prusa does is that they offer upgrades for their printers. So when the next one comes out, you can get an upgrade kit to get the new features.

It’s not cheap, but they offer a LOT of support.

I have Plex running alongside Jellyfin.

When transcoding video, Plex uses an extra 5 watts of power. Jellyfin uses an extra 55 watts.

Jellyfin also has security holes for accessing videos via URL without being authenticated.

I don’t feel like Jellyfin is ready for being exposed to the internet.