AbidingOhmsLaw

By helping someone else out with a subject you know about when there is an opertunity. i.e. pay it forward.

It’s possible that the controller is identifying an open coil and not filling, you should get an error code right away if so. it’s also likely that you did not get a connector seated correctly when re-assembling or that the float switch is stuck from having it tippled over. Check all the connections and after setting it back up right, check that that the float switch can move up and down freely.

You have a dead coil you will have to replace the motor.

Looks like there are 3 coils wired in a Y formation, so the silver rectangles are where they electrical contact is made, let’s call them 1,2, and 3. If you measure across any 2 points you should get the same ( or close) ohm reading. In this set up you are measuring across 2 of the coils so measuring 1 & 2 then 1 & 3 then 2 & 3 should all be simalar and should not read 0 or infinity.

The top picture is the drain pump motor that would be the part that might need replacing if you are having a drain pump error coide. Before replacing it though I would check the windings (coils) to see it they are shorted ( 0 ohms) or burned (very high or infanate ohms). If it within range it might just be that it was not seated properly in the sump housing. The sump housing I’d the gray thing in the 2nd picture.

Hmmm, look like the tech sheet you have is for a dishwasher that has a 3 digit 7 segment display. This looks liked thee correct version for your mokdel, follow the steps that say foir shx (the first part of your model number).

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As I suspected this has your resistance measurements for each of the motors, so measure where indicated and you can see if the windings in the motor is faulty. Your selonoid value looks good.

So thoses are “S” not 5 as in step 1, step 2, step 3, etc if you hook it back up and start the “Customer Service Cycle” perf thee instructions at the top of the page the display will read out the step its on, it will do that step for the time indicated in thee 2nd column and it will be doing the action indicated in the last column, then it will move on to the next step. This allowes you to watch and listen to each step to make sure its doing what it should. Find one that is not and you probably IDed the issue.

984 Ohms seem way high for a solenoid, 8 to 20 ohms would seem more resonable. In the first picture there is a rolled up paper tucked under the inlet, carefully take that out and unroll it. That will be the schematic and field tech notes, it might have the solenoid nominal resistance values and probably has a trouble shooting prkcedure.

Look for your brand / model sevice manual on-line, it should have troubleshooting and testing procedures as well as part # lists and replacement guides.

Surplus WWII era military radios repurposed for ham radio service.

Markings say 150 ohm with 10% tolerance (if that’s silver on band 4), so tolarasnce range would be up to 165 ohms and down to 135 ohms. Your reading of 152.1 is within tolerance. The fifth is TCR (temperature coefficient resistance), blue = 10 ppm/⁰K.