Submitted 23 hours ago by the16bitgamer@programming.dev to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
https://programming.dev/pictrs/image/2916c419-394a-405a-a13b-b782e099113f.jpeg
I’ve been working on a new ereader case platform and wanted to find a way to print bigger than the max volume, and have it extremely durable is was the result.
Need to do some more work with the cover but overall I am very happy with how this turned out.
I have had no luck printing PETG so far, so I get the many print failures.
Dry it out, very easy material to work with after it’s dry. And no it will not come from factory dry.
Do you mean this is larger than your bed size? How did you achieve that?
I dunno how OP did it but you can override your machine’s normal travel limit parameters in your slicer settings. Often the nozzle can physically travel further than the bounds of the build plate and is limited by hitting its rail endstops (or limot switches!) or striking some other part of your machine.
My Qidi can position the nozzle about 20mm beyond all four sides of the plate before it hits anything, but on the left and right sides it needs to be above z height 10mm or so to clear the Z axis gantries, and at the front and rear it’s just empty space. So you can’t print on the bed in that area but if youe object were shaped as such you could put overhangs out there in no man’s land. It would be risky, perhaps, but you could.
Neat, but this print is larger than the total print area. TPU retains it’s heat, allowing you to print multiple separate parts together so long as you can align it properly.
I have an earlier post here going over it. But this 1 print is 3 separate prints. I first print the Spine, which has alignment groves. Then I remove it from the print surface and print the back. The print will stop after the first layer so I can add in the spine which is held down with magnets. The I resume. This will print the next layer ontop of the Spine, which melts it in and creates a solid connection, no weaker than a normal TPU print. I then remove it and do the same to the cover.
vk6flab@lemmy.radio 19 hours ago May I ask what you do with the failures?
At this time, store them.
In the future I want to recycle or remelt them down into something else.
thisbenzingring@lemmy.today 22 hours ago anything TPU is a pain from my experience. Good job, how does it look as finished product?
This is just a prototype and missing the rails to hold in the ereader.
I am selling an older stitched version of this called GLoA e-reader cases which you can see on printable
www.printables.com/search/models?q=gloa
But honestly looks like an e-reader case, and aesthetically aiming for it to look like a book
prenatal_confusion@feddit.org 16 hours ago
I looked for gloa but couldn’t find a definition. What does it stand for?
the16bitgamer@programming.dev 13 hours ago
GLoA it’s a made up term I use for my e-reader cases. What it stands for is the Great Library of Alexandra and no that’s not a spelling mistake.
Th idea of a GLoA case is to be durable and repairable, since my wife’s e-reader case was constantly falling apart and destroying itself. An official case in her hand last 1-2 months, GLoA last 3-4 and hoping to go longer with this newest revision.
Made a whole video documenting the design process of the original case if you are interested in learning more.
youtu.be/DbVxz-0TXBE