Have you ever seen this type of print failure?

Submitted ⁨⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨nucleative@lemmy.world⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ca98172e-f653-4ed2-9208-bff58c041862.jpeg

Pretty sure I’m having heat creep up the Bowden tube, as it’s getting jammed a few cm back from the hot end and then can’t push the filament any more. When I get it out there’s a little molten bulb at the filament.

In this fail, I think it jammed as usual and the extruder found a way to keep going.

I tried turning down the hot end from 215 to 200 and it’s still failing. My cooling fan is running at 100%.

This is the third time I’ve had this print fail at about this layer, around 1 hour into what will be a 26 hour print.

Any ideas?

source

Comments

Sort:hotnew top

dipshit@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
slinky mode

source
marcos@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Well, if you found the jam inside the bowden tube, there’s no reason to keep second-guessing, it’s jammed.

If it always happen at the same point, I’d look at what the printer does differently there. For example, I know that if I set the cooling fan on my printer to more than 10%, it almost immediately jams (due to a design problem). But since it’s all the way into the tube, I’d suspect some absurdly large retraction.

Or, maybe, look for another heat source near the failure point. It doesn’t take a lot to bulge PLA, any electronics touching it may be enough.

source
Highstronaught@feddit.uk ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
That is a very odd failure so not 100% sure. If I had to take a punt I would say the nozzle jammed from the mentioned heat creap issue, eventually the silk pla broke in the extruder as it’s very brittle, combined with retractions. It then was then able to work its way out and make some noodles for you to enjoy.

source
InEnduringGrowStrong@sh.itjust.works ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
A lot of that slinky filament looks grounded or marked by the extruder gear. If it only happens on longer prints, ambient temperature might simply rise too much over time. Even the best extruder cooling fan can’t help much if the ambient air is too hot.

I need to vent my enclosure when doing super long prints or when printing hotter stuff like PETG.

source
HeyLow@lemmy.blahaj.zone ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
I have seen something similar to this while printing tpu but never with pla

I have heard of silk pla filament jamming but this looks like more of a retraction problem to me

If it’s a jam check to make sure that your nozzle is clear of any debris

If it’s retraction

Either too many retractions happening too quickly breaking the fillament at your extruder

Or

Retraction distance is too far

source
rambos@lemm.ee ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
What retraction settings do you use?

source
- nucleative@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
  Using the PrusaSlicer retraction defaults for my Ender 5 plus: 6mm retraction.
  
  I’m going to try again with less. I’ve never had this type of jam before so I think it’s probably something unique to the print, but maybe this will let me finish it.
  
  source
nucleative@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Coming back to say that I got it to print based on the suggestions in the thread.

I settled on a 3mm retraction length in PrusaSlicer which left a minimal amount of stringing. Printed flawlessly after that change.

source
IAmDotorg@lemmy.world ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
That looks like Capricorn tubing. It’s got a 1.8mm, not 2mm, inner diameter.

I used to regularly run into cheap filament that varied up close to 1.8mm in diameter that would get jammed in the tubing.

When I did, tossing the roll was my only option.

Capricorn is great for reducing filament backlash and printing flex, but requires very consistent filament.

source
B0rax@feddit.de ⁨11⁩ ⁨months⁩ ago
Without more information it is hard to say. What hotend do you have? What fan (manufacturer, model number) is cooling the hotend? Did this happen to you before or was it printing fine? Did you change anything?

source