3D Printed full mechanical clock

Submitted ⁨⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago⁩ by ⁨PixeIOrange@feddit.de⁩ to ⁨3dprinting@lemmy.world⁩

https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/b538cd06-abe2-449d-be58-e3adc3b6da10.jpeg

I just want to brag a bit. Printed on an Anycubic Kobra 2. Runs without much problems. At the moment 10 Days on a single winding, tweakble up to 32 days. The weight is from another wooden self build clock.

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fuckwit_mcbumcrumble@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
How accurate is it at the end of those 10 days?

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- PixeIOrange@feddit.de ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
  I just finished building it, i dont know right now. But it is ofcourse adjustable via the pendulum.
  
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IMALlama@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
Something like this is really appealing to me right now. I have younger kids who love making mechanical things. So far it’s been mostly blocks/bricks/the occasional IKEA furniture. My 6 year old really likes analog watches and would probably really like building this. I’ll have to add it to my “to do” pile…

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DavidGarcia@feddit.nl ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
finally one that isn’t printed in the most horrid color possible.

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- PixeIOrange@feddit.de ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
  Thanks. But i dont like the black frame, i think im gonna reprint it white too.
  
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  - DavidGarcia@feddit.nl ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
    IMO the black works. Brass could also be an option. I think the biggest improvement would probably to hide sack with some ornate print
    
    kinda like this AI generated example:
    
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I_Miss_Daniel@kbin.social ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
Nearly finished the same one. Was too cold though and my ender 3 kept warping the bob off the bed. Now it's warmed up again I should finish it.

If it's the same as mine, you had to buy a few ball bearings and steal the springs out of three pens to make it. Also had to use a chopped up fishing jag and a garden trellis for the rods.

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Sambomike20@lemmy.world ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
That’s an awesome design! You’re one of the few people I’ve seen who also have a Kobra 2. You have any tips for that printer? I’m new to 3d printing, but I’ve found some weird workarounds for the problems it has with the M600 code for color changes.

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- PixeIOrange@feddit.de ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
  Filament change is buggy, yes. It worked exactly one time for me. Didnt get it to work again. I just paused the print in time and changed “manually”.
  
  I modified the start and end gcodes like described here. its german tho,so here the modified gcodes directly: drive.google.com/file/d/…/view
  
  It prints 5 lines before the actual print to help with dripped empty nozzle. The first lyer will be much better. Also it pushes the heatbed to the front instead to the back after printing.
  
  After automatic leveling, you can modify the z-offset to fit with the settngs in the slicer. But watch out to not ram the nozzle into the bed. So watch out with setting it lower, higher shouldnt make problems.
  
  Have fun printing!
  
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naevaTheRat@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
Ah nice! I’ve been thinking of making one based on Harrison’s designs.

What movement did you go with? just a plain anchor or deadbeat? or use the chance to be more exciting?

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- PixeIOrange@feddit.de ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
  I dont know what exact escapement. I looked intothe assembly guide and didnt find if anchor or deadbeat.
  
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- naevaTheRat@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨1⁩ ⁨year⁩ ago
  looks anchor but it’s hard to see
  
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