Submitted 3 days ago by nieceandtows@programming.dev to 3dprinting@lemmy.world
https://programming.dev/pictrs/image/088c8938-712a-4886-b48c-e53b9e53a397.jpeg
Tried printing the frog from this set at 75% scale, and it came out like this. The original 3mf for this one doesn’t include supports. What should I adjust on my printer to get better overhangs without supports?Image
I’ve heard some reports that printing outer walls first has a positive effect on overhangs. I have it on in my slicer and it doesn’t seem to negatively effect anything.
I’ll try that thanks
Without supports? Why cripple yourself by denying the easiest most simple and direct solution?
This is more to tweak/tune the printer to print better. I have an ender3v3, and I know it can print it without supports fine, so trying to figure out why this one can’t
I’ve never seen support material visually improve overhangs apart from the specialized support filament that doesn’t bond with the print material. Traditional support always leaves a gap between the support material and the print material, otherwise they’d fuse together and become one with the print, meaning even with support, the print material sags anyway.
OP would probably be better served with adaptive layers and using a much finer layer height in the overhang region.
Temperature, speed, flow rate, cooling.
In other words, close to anything. Follow a calibration guide. Also keep in mind that some filaments just don’t make good overhangs.
Very few printers are going to be able to do 90 degree overhangs even close to nicely. Bridging? Sure. With significant overhangs, it’s always going to wiggle a bit until you get some more layers.
If OP weren’t using this to get as close as possible, I’d say the answer was organic supports coming in from the bed.
squaresinger@lemmy.world 2 days ago
On my printer I added an external 15cm pipe fan that blasts at the print. I only turn it on on prints that need it, but then cooling and overhangs are perfect.