Finally added some more lights to the P1S. Relay controlled from USB-A port.
Trickier than I thought as the original light seems to be controlled by a NPN transistor which threw me off when using the 0V from the USB-A. Feel free to ask if you want to know how to do this yourself without risking burning your board.
Huge upgrade for very little money.
(Yes, I need to dust my top cover!!)
TheRealKuni@midwest.social 3 weeks ago
Oh those look great!
I have a COB LED strip plugged into a USB port on the same power strip as the printer, installed on a riser/slider system for the glass top and AMS, with the wire running through said riser.
At first I was frustrated that I wouldn’t be able to use the printer’s light control with this, but it has actually turned out pretty nice since the lights stay on for maintenance work and nozzle changes, when the printer is turned off.
I like your solution though!
Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 3 weeks ago
Thank you, mate!
I was considering running it switched with remote power, but the nerd in me wanted to cut wires, solder and “automate”, it that makes sense.
I guess I will regret it the next time I need to do some work with my head inside the chamber hehe.
TheRealKuni@midwest.social 3 weeks ago
Oh I totally get it, and probably would’ve gone that route if my DIY skill level was higher. My benefit of maintenance lighting is a lucky accident. 🤣
otter@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 weeks ago
I would like to subscribe to your newsletter, sir. It has not been infrequently that I’ve realized my own need for functionally useful lights that “stay on for maintenance work and nozzle changes, when the printer is turned off” 🤌🏼🤓
TheRealKuni@midwest.social 3 weeks ago
Well I can certainly send you links to the brilliant work of others that inspired me. 🤣
This is the base slider I use for the glass, with these risers for the AMS and this addon for an LED strip.
The LED strip I purchased is this one. I did have to use a dremel to widen the wire way on the slider/riser system, and (of course) had to cut off a good length of excess LED, but there was a very convenient cut point that means most of the back edge isn’t covered by light, but it still works great.