Comment on Where to start with a Volcano hotend?
woefkardoes@lemmy.world 1 year ago
To be honest the Volcano HE is the wrong thing for printing small detail like a DnD character. If you do all the calibrations it can print quite well but will never have the control thats needed for high detail prints. Your best bet is to have an extruder setup that makes it easy to change out the HE. I run both the volcano and normal E3D v6 and swop them out when needed with a EVA extruder.
Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 year ago
While I know I’m not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven’t been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I’m asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?
woefkardoes@lemmy.world 1 year ago
The volcano was made for high volume prints and has a bigger melt zone. Ideally it’s best for bigger nozzles, high layer hights and faster printing.
If you want to print small and detail a normal e3d or other hotend gives you better control. For smaller characters you can use a standard hotend with a 0.3mm nozzle and switch on arachnid or similar in your slicer. That will give you pretty good results provided your cooling is good.
fhein@lemmy.world 1 year ago
I like Teaching Tech’s calibration guide.
And if you don’t mind me asking, where have you heard good things about volcano hotends, and what things specifically? Unfortunately it can be difficult to know who to trust nowadays as there’s a lot of affiliate links disguised as buying advice, paid “reviews”, and well meaning people who confidently repeat what they’ve heard without knowing anything about how true it is. Personally I’ve always thought of volcanoes as a niche item for increasing your print speed while potentially sacrificing some quality, but I’ve never used one myself so don’t trust me either :). Some people appear to be able to calibrate them properly but oozing seems like a very common problem. If you bought some random cheap hotend off amazon there’s definitely a risk that you got a dud, as you said.
Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 year ago
Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I’ve found that it isn’t in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What’s the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?
fhein@lemmy.world 1 year ago
Could it be the Micro Swiss you’re thinking of? AFAIK it is ok, though a bit over priced. Personally I would stay away from the cheap clones you find on Amazon/Aliexpress/Wish as the quality can be a bit of a gamble. Other CR-10 compatible hotends that I’ve heard good things about include Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, Mellow NF Zone, Slice Copperhead. If you just want an all metal CR-10 style hotend I would get one either from Trianglelab or Mellow, who are known to have relatively good manufacturing quality. They’ve gone up quite a lot in price so they’re almost as expensive as a Micro Swiss. Best value option is probably to just buy a high quality all-metal heatbreak and reuse the cooler and heat block from the stock hotend, in case you still have those.